ScoobySchmitty
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Posts posted by ScoobySchmitty
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Sounds like jolly ol' England or the land of No Worries. It could be a wheel wobble, but it goes away after the engine has cooled down, so it seems to me it is engine related. It could be a air/fuel mixture problem, having to do with the thermostat. Check into that area. Normand, do you have a troubleshooting / repair manual for your car? You might be able to find one at a local auto parts shop. Definitely a good investment, and if you can use a wrench, it will save you hundreds by fixing it yourself! Good luck!
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Yup,
But overall this thing (kept in the high 2K RPM range) ROCKED... My daily drive right now is a 98 328is 5-spd and after that test drive I was really impressed. I wish that it had more down low grunt as well...
LOL, I think I'm going to send this thread to a friend of mine. He has a 328is 5 spd, and is looking for another car. Maybe this is a good replacement for him. After all, he did like the Jetta GLI
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First off, I would verify what that mechanic is saying. Perhaps there is a reinforced auto tranny more able to handle the higher loads. However, consider the fact that you are looking at a power difference of about 30 horses, between NA and Turbo EJ22's! Unless you REALLY tuned out your engine, I don't see how an extra 30 horse umph is going to make much of a difference. Second, a brand new transmission would be a waste of $$, especially if it costs more than what a student could expect to pay for a good vehicle! I would find a good rebuild shop (where you can kill two birds with one stone, find out if there is a "new" and "old" type of auto tranny for the turbo), and get some prices. THEN, supply the mech with the part, IGNORE his tales of gloom and doom, and get that thing going! PS, if you do have the mechanic replace the tranny, MAKE SURE YOU GET THE OLD ONE BACK! Rebuild shops have core charges!
About letting the tranny leak fluid, it depends on how bad a leak. If you are adding fluid on a pretty regular basis, I would get the rebuild. OR, if it's add a little bit every month or so, I wouldn't worry about it just yet. But I would be doing the research now. Just my $2.00 worth
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A good synopsis rcoaster. The only problem is that you didn't get to use the MANUAL with the turbo setup. Still, I would go with the 2.5 turbo instead of the 3.0R, for the simple fact I could drive it up and down it's power band in a manual tranny all day. Granted, in most turbo vehicles, you won't see any standstill power, and only after about 2500 RPM will you feel that boost kick in. A friend of mine and I test drove a 2004 VW Jetta GLI, with the 1.8T (manual), and you can definitely feel (and hear
) the turbo kick in. (Funny side story, I asked the salesman during the drive when the turbo usually spools up, and he said, "Oh, about 25-30 MPH." Yeesh, a car salesman doesn't even know the engine specs. Lucky I didn't ask him the boost pressure.) Anyway, I have been
:slobber: to try a 2005 GT, but I can imagine the arched eyebrows I would get pulling in with the Jackrabbit, in the classic Subaru Two-tone White front / Red Rust back. Still, I can dream, can't I? -
The way I've always seen it, Setright, is that 4x4 or 4WD is seen on trucks and older Subies, and has a SOLID MECHANICAL link between the two axels, that being the transfer case. IE, it's a bad idea to run 4wd on a truck on a dry pavement road. AWD, on the other hand, may be marketing babble, but it helps to distinguish between two similar but seperate types of drive systems. AWD uses a center differential that uses a silicon based substance to provide the link between the two axels. I'm not familiar with the Torsen diff, so I won't go into that, but if it is a HARD, MECHANICAL link between the front and rear, I would venture to call it 4WD, not AWD. Anyway, just the way I've seen it since acquiring my own little runner
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A Legacy is AWD, which means that the engine will turn one of the axel sets (front or rear) with a viscous coupling. I'm pretty sure that the rear wheels are connected to the viscous coupling and the front wheels directly to the engine. By VISCOUS coupling, I mean the rear wheels, in slipping conditions, will turn as power is applied to them, sort of like how a torque converter works. BUT, there is NO PERMANENT LINKAGE between the front and the rear wheels, IE, no transfer case. So, you can't really go rock climbing with it, but you can certainly drive it through loose road conditions (dirt/gravel roads, snow, etc.) with ease. I hope this helps out.
PS, the AWD is on ALL the time, and you do not need to worry about switching between HI and LO. In fact, there's no lever for it anyway:D
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I installed a JVC in my MY91, and to my delight, it mounted right up to the 1.5 DIN bracket. The downside? I now have a 2" rectangular hole below it. If you re-use the bracket from the OEM stereo, be sure to find a suitable piece of plastic to place over this gap. OR, you could mount an EQ in there
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DO IT!!! If you can, get a beefier exhaust manifold too. I don't believe back pressure affects performance too much, so give it a shot, but keep your old system around just in case.
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I'm pretty sure that the drive thru is a convenience offered by the chain, not a required part of being a fast food restaurant, GIVEN, it would be a stupid idea nowadays to open a fast food restaurant without one. Now, I will grant that because the property is owned by the franchise, they should be responsible and try and drain the water as fast as possible. The problem being, what was causing the flooding to occur? Was a drain plugged up from the hurricane? If that is the case, then other than having the water pumped into a tank and trucked out, then I don't believe there was much that Wendy's could have done. Also keep in mind that Wendy's was/is defnitely NOT the only one with flooding problems in that area, so it might be DAYS or WEEKS before the problem is taken care of. In conclusion, I hope the radiator repair worked out good for you, and that you sat down and CALMLY discussed the situation with the manager of Wendy's. It helps nobody to fly off the handle in this situation. The damaged was caused by 3 things: 1) Nissan's poor engineering 2) The flooded parking lot and 3) You driving through the puddle (The action of, given you had no choice). In a situation like this, there is no clear answer. I just hope you find one that is agreeable to all parties involved. Good Luck.
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I've had IAC problems since day 1 in my MY91 Legacy, and it does control the idle (IAC: Idle Air Control). My problems have been that it will not idle properly cold, and will idle low and roughly (around 100-200 rpm) with the AC compressor engaged. Sometimes it won't idle at all with the compressor on, it will just quit on me! SPECULATION: I read a post earlier this week about the Outback having 2 O2 sensors. The 2nd one makes sure the 1st one is working right. If the 2nd one has stopped working first though, it leads me to believe that if the 1st one goes, then you have no way of knowing. PLEASE NOTE THIS IS SPECULATION, it might work differently for two 02 sensors. However, you cannot rule out the possibility that one of them might have gone bad. Hope this helps out.
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Geez! There be some inconsiderate jerks out there! You're right, at least the 2nd guy left you a note in regards to the damage. Maybe you could talk to the insurance and get the whole thing fixed in one, considering it happened on the same day:brow:
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The worst that could happen is that the other retainer clip could break (on the other side of the release bearing), and each time you would push in the clutch, you would hear (and feel) a horrible rattling noise. I drove my old MY90 Legacy like this for a while, until I replaced the clutch and found that I needed the retaining clips (which the clutch kit DID NOT provide). My Dad and I fashioned two of them out of old coat-hanger wire. Worked perfectly!
Also, the only way I could see this part getting outside the transmission would be if there is a small gap between the engine and the tranny's bell housing. I don't recall if there is such a gap there from OEM casting or machining, but if this is the case, the transaxel might be mounted loosely to the engine. Something to check out next time your under the S00b.
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Good work, I just wanted to make a couple of comments. It is a WHOLE lot easier to unstake the driveshaft nut and take it off, even BEFORE you hoist the car. And from there, you don't have to pull the hub assembly off either, at least I did not have to. I took the entire assembly with the new bearing parts to a local import shop, and they pressed out old, and pressed in new for $30. The bearing parts cost about the same as yours, Joeo. The entire job for one bearing took me 1/2 a day to do. Not bad for a solo job!
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It's hard to really discern which pulley it's coming from, but probably alternator or power steering. I'll check the play in both pulleys.
UPDATED:
I checked again, and the noise is DEFINITELY coming from the power steering pump pulley. Now I just need to find a bearing!
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In the past few days, I've had a really weird whirring noise, it sounds like a very loud bearing. I'm almost thinking the bearing in one of the pulleys from the front (power steering, idler, etc.) is starting to go. Any ideas? It does not go away when it's warmed up, btw. Thanks for any ideas!
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It could be an intermittent connection on the door position switch. My 91 beeps with the door open and the ignition on.
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It's because the Outback can come with a stick
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Hi Folks, it's been a while.
My poor little 91 has been really working hard for me, and racking up the miles. Lately I noticed that I'm using more oil in between changes, about 2-3 quarts each time. I have a feeling my rings are going bad (I was flogging it pretty hard on some windy roads for a while), but I don't have the time right now to rebuild an engine. Replacement is easy enough, but I don't have the $$ for a new engine right now (blasted college). I thought of two things:
1. Run a 50/50 mix of 10w30 and 20w50. This is an IDEA and I have not done it, mostly because I know that newer engines need to run a thinner oil in the first place. Would this make my situation worse???
2. Use Engine Restore. A friend reccomended this stuff, and I like it because it's not the mild "engine honey" solution. My only worry is that it has particulate matter suspended in the fluid, and it's supposed to "bind" to your cracks and pits, and restore compression. I'm sorry, but "bind" is not a good word to combine with engine.
Any other ideas, thoughts, rants?
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Actually on slick or dirt roads, AWD drifts quite naturally
The key is to kick the gas in a turn, and let the rear slide out, steer in the direction of the slide, and feather the throttle to manage the drift. Easy, and DAMN fun!!!ScoobySchmitty
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They charged me for ~1/2 hour worth of work, coming out to about $28. Not bad for having a bearing pressed out, and a new one pressed in. I could have gone to a machine shop, but in the long run, I would trust someone who works on cars daily, vs. going to a machine shop.
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My bearing job was the smoothest experience w/ a Subaru I have EVER had to date. In fact, that entire day went EXACTLY as planned, which is a new experience to me :-P Anyway, here's what transpired:
Having run into several mechanic shops, and getting the same "we won't do the 'hard' part for you, you're taking our hours..." BS, I checked at a place my friend recommended, called Classic Imports in New Buffalo, MI. I called and asked about having a bearing pressed out ( & new one in), and the rep said "Sure! come by around 5 and we'll take care of it and charge you AS LITTLE AS POSSIBLE." Not ONLY did they charge me bottom dollar, but while my hub was in their excellent care, the rep, Don, showed me around their garage and storage area, containing some very nice Alfa Romeo's, a race-ready Mini, OLD Lincolns, Jags, and so on. There was even a 97 Outback in there having work done. I took one look at it and said "Head Gaskets." Don said, "Yep. Warped the block too." OUCH!!! Anyway, I swear it was one of the BEST experiences I have EVER had going to a mechanic. Now I recommend them to everyone else that needs work done on an import!
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I had this happen on my 91 Legacy. I had to do what jclay said, pull the trim, mess with the linkage, etc. The main problem was that the springs that pop the handle back to rest were so rusted that the RUST ITSELF was overcoming the spring tension! En Ingles: When I pulled the handle, it would stick in place! Finally I got some penetrating oil, lubed up the springs, and now the handle works just like new! Try this out, see if it works for u.
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Does anyone know if a brake place (Midas) would power-bleed my brakes? I heard this can be done, I just don't know what it would cost, or if anyone has had it done on their car, and whether or not it worked out.
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Now that I think about it, you're right. Dealer shops use rate books, so I'll get charged big time. I'll call around tomorrow and see who would do it (correctly, that is.)
Baja observation
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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AUTO?! BLEAH!!! Bugger that, I prefer the control that the 5 speed gives me. I bet they were geared toward the younger generation. I know very few college students who have an automatic, or enjoy driving one. I even like using it in Suburbia, it helps me move around in traffic!