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ScoobySchmitty

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Posts posted by ScoobySchmitty

  1. Long time, no see to those who might remember me... :D

     

    Anyway, my 91 is running well as usual. Since I last posted I installed a new muffler and she sounds just great! Now my front bearing is REALLY begging for attention, so I am going to replace it. It seems to me I am not only going to need the bearing, but the inner and outer seals as well. It looks like I'm going to spend around $60 for the whole shebang. Does anyone have any tips/tricks to doing this? I do know I need to take the knuckle to an auto shop to have the old one pressed out, and the new one pressed in. Would a Subaru dealership do this for me for a small fee???

     

    ScoobySchmitty

  2. Originally posted by Legacy777

    you could try heating up the hub area.......it's not going to be good for the bearings.......but sometimes heat is the only way. Also may want to find some PB Blaster penetrating oil. It's good stuff.

     

    I second this. Any time I have had a stuck bolt, I just take a torch to it for a few min, then try again. In between these "heat treatments", add a little bit of the penetrating oil. The heat will draw it into the threads (in your case splines), and help to loosen it. Just don't do the oil & heat at the same time. The resulting fireball can do serious damage to your eyebrows :D

  3. Ok, sounds good. my only question is whether or not you have the wiring diagram for the scoob? Instead of purchasing the wiring harness, I simply cut (!) the connector for the OEM radio, and simply matched up the wires, based on the wiring diagram for the JVC, and the wiring diagram for the OEM radio. It works great :D

     

    From what I have learned, it seems that most all radios have a common ground, and it is universally the black wire. The little dashes on the yellow wire should mean "yellow/black". Are you sure it is not one of the speaker wires?? Check out the wiring again, hopefully it's just a simple mixup. Good Luck!

  4. Originally posted by Canadian

     

    The engine light came on when we were testing it. The dealership immediately took the car into the shop and changed an oxygen sensor, which resulted in the engine light going off. No other codes came up.

     

    I would have hated to be the dealer on this one :D Oh well, S**t hapens, you just have to deal with it. From what I've seen on this board, it sounds like a good run of the mill Forester. ferret was right, if it is automatic, it puts 90% to the front, 10% to the rear, and will shift power to the gripping wheels when a wheel slips. The 5 speed is 50/50 all the time (why I like it in my Legacy), and as far as driving, I would say it's the best mix of front wheel drive stability and rear wheel drive predictability. In any case, hope you get it for a deal! I would work that dealer on the check engine light, see if you can have him drop a couple hundred, 1k maybe? :D Good Luck!

  5. Originally posted by urabus1995

    This is a weird one._----I am trying to install a JVC cd/radio unit, which I got given for free. Assured it was working ok. When I switch it on, It makes a whirring sound briefly, shows the JVC logo. then the words "see you" , and switches off.

    Anyone else had a similar problem?

    this radio does not need a code, and I am sure that the wiring is Ok.

     

    I installed a JVC in my car not too long ago, but I didn't have this problem. Maybe, you got the accessory and regular power wires swapped? See if it works in the ACC position, and if it does, that might be the problem. I'll look up the wire colors for the stereo when I get home. Good Luck!

  6. I was getting around 27-28 mpg all around driving for the longest time, and pretty happy with it. Lately, I noticed just the slightest drop in performance (though I still kept pace w/ my buddy's BMW), and about 24-25 mpg mileage. When you drive about 100 miles a day, that gas can add up, especially with climbing prices! All I did was change the oil (5w30 for REALLY cold weather...) including an oil additive, XR-1 or something like that. I also washed and re-oiled my cone filter. Any ideas? Thanks in advance!

  7. R U sure it's not a bad wheel bearing? I mistook a wheel bearing problem for rubbing brakes before. Does the noise increase and decrease, depending on which direction you turn the wheel (left = louder, right = quieter/gone, and vice versa)? If this is the case, another quick check you can do is to raise the beast on jackstands, and try and wobble the wheel you think the noise is coming from. There should be NO wobble,(that's a weird phrase), and if there is, chances are you have a bad wheel bearing. Hope this helps out!

  8. Ok, bought these brakes about 1k miles ago, and I was very happy with them. No warp-pulse, very smooth, and QUIET! Now, suddenly, these suckers are screaming like banshees, but only at certain (moving) braking strengths. They will squeak anywhere from barely engaged to hard braking, and they never squeak in the same spot!!! Anyone have any ideas, especially ones that don't require $$? I'm a bit short on cash right now...

  9. Weird that a 2.2L would go crappy, especially after only 260k miles :D They are really good engines. I have worked on this one, and GM's venerable 3800 series, and while a good engine, it's a bit of a pain to work on. This one I LIKE. Hope you find something better. For the price you are stating, you can probably find something like a 95-96 legacy or outback. But the fact still stands, STICK with the 2.2L. There are far far more good 2.2L's out there than there are bad ones. Good luck!

  10. :slobber: :slobber: :slobber: :slobber: :slobber:

     

    That is EXACTLY what I want to do to the Jackrabbit. drop an EJ20T in, better clutch, lightweight flywheel, turbo timer, and awaaayyy I go! I'd hide the intercooler, put on a set of Legacy GT 18 spoke wheels, and leave the trunklid rusty. The absolute ULTIMATE sleeper! I can only IMAGINE the look on the face of some poor schmo who just had his backside handed to him by a rusty old Subaru :D :D :D

  11. Originally posted by LameRandomName

    OK, so there's nothing wrong with my car, it's just that the guy who engineered the cruise control system was a jackåss.

     

    Sounds like it. The only weird thing is that you say it drops after it goes under 9-10 mph under the setting. Mine acts just like yours (91 Legacy, MT), but I have never had that dropping problem. You might want to check the system out.

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