Rhen2016

I had a similar rust problem and was worried about the frame integrity. NY State rust belt car. Found this product online-- https://www.theruststore.com/Rust-Converter-Gallon-P40C10.aspx Used a wire brush to remove some of the superficial rust and applied the product as per directions. After drying, noticed a few areas that needed a second coat. I'm happy with the result, and feel relieved that the rust is arrested. I didn't feel the need to top coat with POR-15, but if you have the time that would be an awesome way to finish the job.

The pressures look good. Use a feeler gauge and measure the clutch/cover distance. Too tight and the clutch may not release/cycle. Too wide and the clutch stops engaging as you drive.

"how much refrigerant did you put in the system?" ----what's the reading on the low pressure side?

Lately I've been using www.parts.com for my Forester and other cars. $13.07 plus 10.99 and 2.00 shipping/handling for part 809218370. They stock parts for most Makes and Models.

Didn't see grossgary's update. Ok, so it was due to a blown fuse.

First off, only use a OEM thermostat. If it is the head gaskets, then you can check the decks for warpage using a machinist's straight edge. If out of spec ( >0.0025") , then a machine shop will have to machine the heads flat. From your description of things, overheating and 'puking' coolant out of the overflow tank points to head gasket failure.

Ever had the engine overheat before this happened? If so, the heads could have warped causing a premature head gasket failure. Was any work done on the head gaskets before?