Keep it in the Family

That is exactly what happened Numbchux. The control box leaks when it's cold outside. I also vacuum checked all the hoses and they all hold without leaking, plus they are not brittle which is good to know. Now I either need to go to the junk yard looking for a new box or just T it off like you did. Thanks everyone. Oh, and I removed the dash without breaking anything. Yesssss!

To clear things up, I HAD NOT found the leak. It just wasn't apparent that day (it comes and goes). Yesterday it was back when I drove her last night so I put my ear next to the actuators under the driver panel, and the heater controls on the dash. It definitely sounds like its somewhere near the controls, so off it's coming today. I also got a hold of a hand vacuum pump. Thanks for instructions in removing the bezel. Like I said, the first time it didn't quite come off. I have a good feeling about today though!

The clank is loud enough the a non car person would notice it at low rpm. But it's definitely not head turning or anything. The ticking makes the engine just seem loud (according to my girlfriend). She didn't hear the ticking itself.... I can though. Today is going to be nice enough to check for loose bolts/components under the hood in the afternoon; I'm going to pull the car up on ramps and look for exhaust leaks now while it's cool enough to see the exhaust easily. And yes, I'll be careful, no need getting crushed today. As far as 92 octane, the engine is worn (low compression), has decently low compression ratio, and I'm at high elevation (above 6200 ft), so I'm thinking its something else. I may check the timing with a timing light though to make sure its not overly advanced. thanks for the ideas everyone

Good Morning Everyone. My question is about a noise that I believe is coming from my engine... or at least some rotating component attached to the engine. The sound is a sort of clank, not a tick like lifters make, and it doesn't seem to be rapid enough to actually match the engine rpm..... This being said it DOES change with an increase in rpm. It reminds me of the sound older diesel truck engines make at low rpm or when they are cold. The clanking...... The biggest problem I have in diagnosing the sound is that it only happens under load, and is the worst at low rpm. For example, when I drive home there is a water/runoff dip in the road right before a hill. So I slow down, go over the dip and accelerate up the hill; at this point in 2nd gear I'm around 1500-2000 rpm.This is when the noise is the most prominent, possibly because there is little wind noise at that slow a speed and the engine noise in limited at that low a rpm. The engine ALSO has a ticking noise that either fades or stops suddenly when the engine is warmed usually. I have (according to the oil pressure gauge) upwards of 65-psi at 3000+ rpm and 15-psi at idle which I believe is appropriate for this vehicle. This I'm figuring IS a stuck lifter that frees up when the engine warms but I thought it was worth mentioning. Any ideas? Thanks.

So I looked around yesterday and found vacuum operated actuators under the driver-side panel. Didn't get to vacuum test anything b/c I cannot loan a vacuum pump and don't want to spend the money to buy a hand pump right now. I also pulled the cover back that covers the top of the instrument cluster. It's the same piece that has three of the vents. Is the bezel/ plastic piece you guys mentioned connected from the back of that cover with screws, or can I pop it off the front; I mean is it held in with tabs instead? I don't want to pry and crack it. Both these being said, the vacuum leak noise was not apparent yesterday. I forget to mention that this happens the worst when it is cold, it's especially bad when it's frosted outside overnight, and it was pretty warm out yesterday. *The cold aspect seems important..... sorry guys. Thinking old dried up hoses that may be cracked/hardened that is worse and cannot seal when it's so cold. The plan is to pull the hoses off and check the ends today, or wait till I hear the noise and put my hand against the connections to see if it changes the sound.

Wonderful. Thank you both. I will check this afternoon when I get off work. If I am correct, the check valve between the manifold and reservoir should hold a complete vacuum which I will check just to be sure. Removing the bezel and testing the lines is what I was thinking, but thought it best to ask; don't need any extra headache. I'll post my findings

Hello All: I have a '91 Loyale that the heater blend door sticks in the vent position. Sometimes after running for a while and generally above 2000 rpm, it will switch to heater or defrost with appropriate button selected. I can hear a vacuum leak somewhere but was wondering if anyone knows where the vacuum lines are and what I would need to disassemble to get to them. I can't find any diagrams or component locations in the database I have access to. Thanks