Sube Buggy

the o2 monitor not complelting would keep it in limp mode? maybe ill have to test it out. alot of the times the time the voltage is at .02 or .06 and i know it should be around .1 to .9 depending if it richens or leans the mixture out. and its a bosch not a standard OEM so milage is unknown. any idea on the white smoke on start up?? the car actually seems to run really lean when its stationary and after warming up. The spark plugs are new and the tips are white. its generally at 10.4 area and stays there when cruising which i hear between -10 and +10 isnt bad

well i grounded the pin for the neutral switch and put a different type of speed sensor on (NPN 5 volt receives signal every time a cv bolt asses under the NPN sensor on the old vw trans) and it works on the scanner and seems fairly accurate to what my actual speed is. now the car still sputters and lags when i accelerate.. i figure the p0500 code would toss it into limp mode and that was my problem. what frig else would do that?! my fuel pressure is fine, i have new coil wires and spark plug both ngk (recommended on this topic) the plug wires did dim down the crappy idle at stop lights. the coil pack seems to be the original DIAMOND coil pack. the only other code i did have was a p1702 and the fact my o2 sensor monitor NEVER completes how long does it usually take. Is my car still in limp mode?! it sputters about 2.5k rpm but on my 4 speed trans first gear doesnt really have a problem until 4k + rpm and second third and fourth sputter around 2.5k rpm Could it be my timing belt? i just put one on but all the marks lined up and the proper amount of teeth between the cam and crankshaft was there for both sides i think 40.5 and 44 or something in that ball park i know it was right when i set it up but what would happen if it was 1 tooth off? yes i did use a new tensioner as well the kit was from "Gates" the more i read it seems to have similar symptoms to skipping 1 tooth The most it possibly could look off is about half a tooth but when i lined everything up it was perfect so i dont know if it is possible to be off by half a tooth dont know if this helps now when i start it up it starts and runs like complete garbage, spews white smoke out the tail pipe for about 3 seconds thens stops and then about 5-10 seconds it idles totally normal like nothing happened... my coolant levels are fine too they have not dropped

yeah i know i really didnt think getting a 95 would screw me like this is seems like an oddball year because the 96 and ups ecu's are different same with 94 and prior. fortunately enough i was able to get a pdf file of the entire car and some help with a nice wiring digram from dans performance parts! guess i just need to get a scope and see the digital output of my speed sensor. plus new ngk coil wires will be here tomorrow so hopefully those help. aslo when the throttle closes it was a nice grumble/ (backfire or afterfire, not sure of proper terminology) as it sounds freakin awesome i really believe it shouldn't be doing that.. any input? the o2 sensors on the live data sometimes go to .03 .01 volts they sit at that voltage for awhile and sometimes will go back to normal then back to the standard range from .1~.9 The o2 sensor is a: LSH 24 bosch

okay i removed the filter and it didn't really make a difference i'm surprised the inlet on those are pretty small. Any who i finally got some codes!! never thought id be happy about it they are as follows in order listed on the tool. p0500: Vehicle Speed Sensor Malfunction (its not reading speed anymore????) p0133: (Has not appeared after reseting ecu, also unsure how old the first o2 sensor is) Oxygen Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1, Sensor 1) p0443: evap canister (don't care) p1702: Auto Trans Diagnosis Input Signal Circuit / wtf is this one?? i've been reading and it seems semi related to my bogging issue and speed sensor issue since maybe the ecu thinks the cars in neutral and not under load? hence the speed sensor not working or showing any speed? I did test the speed sensor it has 12v hooked to ignition and is grounded also has 4.73 ish volts when the ignition is turned on. unfortunately i don't have a scope to see the digital output..

Ill try that when i get and report back home thanks guys. ill try and get some picture of the live data if it would help any. there is some little pieces of junk in the so i definitely want a filter before the pump so should i just get a second stock black filter? Also i don't know why my car wont throw any codes at all? i know there is codes there's no abs, the second o2 sensor was unplugged it should throw a misfire code or something when it sputters like it does. Some times the engine acts like its gonna die when it warms up and is idling but never dies it just kicks back to about 800 rpm. Its a Pain in my arse trying to figure out this problem with no codes, at least if i had codes i would have something to go off of.

my fuel trim stays in open loop is there a reason? the o2 monitor never completes i dont have the second o2 sensor installed in the exhuast but it is plugged in. it wouldnt be a problem, is that a cause or could it be the maf sensor?

it looks like this but the manual for it says 26-30 psi for idle and 34-38 for acceleration. its looks like the info is from mitchell or alldata

found a pdf file of my manual with everything in it fuel pressure with the vacuum port open on the fpr is 34-38 psi and with the hose back on the fpr it should be 26-30psi so its not my fuel system

right on! should i think about investing in a surge tank? i keep my gas above 1/2 full should i go with a walbro 255 or bosch 044 i hear they're good but thats for the 2.5 turbos and such not sure if itll be just as good for my little ej22.

cool thanks for the links! i was hoping the amazon one had prime

what were your symptoms? bad idle, hesitation, misfires? for the wires these look appropriate? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Spark-Plug-Wire-Set-NGK-8004-fits-95-96-Subaru-Legacy-2-2L-H4-/301658824881 just want some input to make sure they're actually pretty decent.

okay cool i wont worry about a coil pack for now ill get the new plugs and wires see how that goes. i might try to test the fpr but its weird that its the fuel pump for a f150 isn't enough maybe because its an older model truck the pressure might not be as high?? looks like ill be looking for a new external pump too also the ngk v powers are gapped at .044 and the recommended gap should be .039- .043 i should be fine with that right. some say a touch bit of a wider gap isn't all that bad.

im curious then is the fpr not getting enough vacuum to operate at the specific fuel pressure or whats the deal with that.

okay then the speed/ hall effect sensor must be working since it has a vehicle speed ! and yeah i figured i should but i was being cheap and figured since i drove it on the highway home for 45 minutes not to worry about it at least at the time. looks like ill just go all out and get the ngk v-powers also whats a good coil pack you had luck with? and are autolite spark plugs okay because i just bought some a week or two ago the gap and everything is okay, or should those be more specific too? also on a bigger screen i saw the fuel pressure never made it above 40psi even on hard acceleration it was generally in the 36~37 psi area

that's what I was thinking I might just get new coil pack and wires they seem old and it wouldn't hurt. yeah its a hall effect sensor it goes on the cv mounting bolts by the transmission and spins over the little magnetic pick up there's 5 little metal tabs going around the ring. I might look into getting a new fuel pump one that a lot of more experienced people recommend. I just don't know why its constant but low. I was also thinking about getting some sea foam to see if it helps any since the motor has 164K and the previous owner probably didn't care since I got the car from a really really and did I mention really crappy auto place in the inner city. not sure how far it is off cause the cord is not long enough to compare ill made the obd port longer so I can see but also does the ecu use speed sensor data or other inputs to determine the speed on the scanner.

sometimes i have a hard time opening there page up, but its a hall effect sensor heres the link https://smallcar.com/vanagon/subaru-vanagon-conversion-parts/hall-effect-speed-sensor-kit.html its not working for me either it seems the server stalls out heres a picture. as for the fuel its off a 89 area f150 inline fuel pump i bought it new at summit racing awhile ago so ill have to look for the exact name. alot of people said it worked for their swap but also people mentioned Bosch too. 35psi @ idle = 29~30psi 42-45 w/o vacuum = 39~40psi 35psi @ cruising = 30ish psi 42-45 psi under acceleration = 39~40 psi does the computer need the input from the sensor for the scan tool data or not? because it seems semi accurate.

excellent thanks fairtax i go out and see what it is and get back to you. not sure why but even though small car made these for the ej22 for vanagons it has 5 pulses instead of four not entirely sure why but could that make a huge difference? ill need to solder and extend my obd2 connector since its behind me in a mounted tool box. then i can just compare the speed on my phone and the speed on my scanner?

yeah i can i just bought a 100 dollar one from az today it might be cheap but im just glad i can read live data. i also need to see what my fuel pressure is when i drive and how to the fuel pressure be? like go up with rpm, stay the same pressure, go down or what? also i guess there is a secondary speed sensor? should i be worried about that

Well i got a map sensor and wired it up and really didnt make much of a difference cruising in 3rd was a little bit smoother other than that its the same i still have to wild a bung for the secondary o2, there is no misfires that come up on the scan tool or any codes that come up. i was driving it around town and still no codes the monitors for the o2 sensors never finish.

at almost seems it happens at lower rp in higher gears and in first it really deosnt do it so it kinda seems almost like its related to speed too

then why does it only happen when its around 3k instead of all the way through the rpm band or at idle? and then im curious why no one else whos done the swap reported using one or have problems without one.

thats what i thought, but i knew a lot of cars the map sensor is critical so it kinda made me second guess myself but im going to bench test the coil for proper resistances and unfortunately wont be able to see the pressure since its raining but what should i look for the fuel pressure acting erratic, to spike, or to dip??

woods wagon couldnt i just ground the wire but what would it do if i relocated it would the vibration or movment of the car still possibly make it "sense a knock" since its still connected?

ill do some more checking when i get home but here is the video listen between 30 and 40 seconds the other stuff is just driving.

thanks for the help guys looks like ill be grabbing a map sensor at the junk yard tomorrow i kept all wires from the ecu so ill just have to figure out which ones go where and install it hopefully ill be able to find a diagram. ive been unlucky that everyone that does the swap have the 3 or 4 plug ecu's i have the big 96 pin grey rectangle. might as well grab some plugs while im at it too. im about to upload a video and hopefully itll help a little bit.