Sube Buggy

Also is there anyway to tell that i'm in "manual transmission" mode? i grounded pin 50 but i'm not sure if thats it or not i know 95 ecu's completley different than any other ecu's is pin 50 actually it for my car i cant find anything anywhere!

so really they could just do one cycle and thats it? i only get the p1101 code when i do that i feel like i should be getting alot of other codes since i dont have abs or any evap stuff for that matter. has anyone used a a stinger ems? seems like it would solve alot of my problems. then later down the road i can get it retuned if i get another engine.

How do I know when to be done with the test mode connectors does it shut off when it's done, does it keep going?

Yeah I only plugged them in when the car was off and turn the Ingnition on (assuming that's what I'm supposed to do) I don't drive with them plugged in

Still havnt figured out the neutral switch it was only come up when I plug the two green connectors in (p1101) if nothing works out in the next couple months I might just say screw it and buy a stinger standalone and a harness for the ej22 until I can get an ej205 since I would already have a stinger, I don't want to sell it since I can for see how much fun this can potentially have not running like crap, it's pretty fun right now and it runs like crap between 2500 and 3500 don't know why it lets me go above that, I thought limp mode only lets you hit a certain point and that's all you can get up too. For example like 3k rpm. Also it has a grumble, popping sound backfire. Long term fuel trim was about 8.6 while short term is 21 or so seems a bit lean to me the long term doesn't seem terrible though

ill be looking into those as well. but have any of you had any experience with jdm racing motors.com?

JDM racing motors seems to be a very reputable supplier. They have compression checks on their site and they are not bulls****** about it. they take the video of the engine number everytime. I hear there customer service is very good too. anyone have any input?

. That was the site I was looking at and was gonna go with or at least thinking. I was talking to two guys are a car meet one with a older gen Subie said he got his motor from there and he said it was good and the other an mr2. Both had no problems but that's nice they are actually on the states and they show compression tests on engines I was looking at the ej207's I think they had forged internals and coated Pistons and a twin scroll turbo??? I could be wrong but I thought they were way more expensive have you had an engine from there? Or has anyone had an engine from there? I know over in Japan and threat area they do take care of their possessions a lot more carefully. Off topic but at the country club I work at they are very cautious and careful with their gear. They always want it in a safe place, locked or want there shoes shined. Not one not two but all of them lol so I can see them being more caring with maintenance. The 2.2 I got was from the city of Cleveland not exactly the best area and the oil and everything was absolute garbage. Luckily it's okay because it's a 2.2 ????

You should be good. Mine slipped some teeth and kept trying to start it thankfully I didn't mess anything up. Make sure to get the gates kits it's was fair priced and good quality

You should be good. Mine slipped some teeth and kept trying to start it thankfully I didn't mess anything up. Make sure to get the gates kits it's was fair priced and good quality

I want to keep everything under 04. My adapter plate goes up to an 04 but I don't know why the 05 wouldn't since it's the last of that generation right? How much are totaled cars usually worth anyway? 500, 2000, 5000?? I've never had luck parting and selling but that's probably because they were cars no one cared about lol realistically my best bet would be an ej22 block with ej205 heads? I see and hear the ej205 have the same or very very similar sized cylinder walls, I'm not exactly sure how low this will make it but essentially the lower the compression the more boost I can run safely? Or at least to a certain point

Now if i did frankenstein i assume the harness i want is one for the heads and intake manifold ? so if i got 2.5 heads itll drop to maybe 9:1 or something around there which sounds good for a turbo setup

Wtdash thanks a ton for the reply and the insight. i was considering doing to head swap to lower the compression but then i want a different harness cause the one i have no is a 95 which was an really odd year. but either if i did do that it wouldnt matter because i would want the stinger ems a good basic ems unit and pretty respectable it seems like. i just want the area between 200 and 300 max ill take it if i could get 310 or so that sounds like a fairly obtainable number, regardless i didnt know if there was a place thats known and reputable thats not a gamble. I know outfront motor sports is where i was going to have my harness done this time around for the stinger, instead of doing it myself. Ive only heard of good things about their motors as well. i know they wont be cheap. but i feel like frankensteining a motor would be iffy too. i have the mechanical skills to do it. Realistically it would be like you said sourcing the parts. frankinstiening wouldnt be a bad idea since ill drive this one till the motor blows on the 2.2 and in the meantime start saving and scavenging parts!

It'll work i have and ej22 from a 95 legacy lsi auto into a tube frame buggy and while it works it was the worst year to pick because the years before and after the ecu pinouts are different. It was kinda a PITA but don't get me wrong everything will work fine it just takes some time to find the diagrams and info. it was worth it but now were looking into putting in an ej205

Im about to clean the IAC today and do some test driving so see how it turns out!

hello all i'm here (hopefully in the right place) today to ask for inputs of different places to get reasonable priced and millage engines. I'm in the mists of research for a new setup i already have an ej22 sohc in my rail buggy tube frame. I want even more juice so now i'm looking at an ej205 (02-05) which seems like a moderately reliable, cheap and abundant wrx motor. I already have everything to adapt the motor. I was going with the stinger ems front outfront motorsports with their custom adapted harness (rather pay someone after doing the harness for the ej22 ) which would be done and driving in a weekend. Now leads me to the question where have anyone of you fellow members got your engines from? i was looking at used jdm motors but god forbid its a big gamble, and all the kids around on Ohio Craigslist think there motor is a built 400hp motor and try to sell there wrx motor with 200k+ miles for 4 grand?! At least that sounds obnoxiously high. So where have all of you got motors from?! were they cheap? was shipping reasonable? i am aiming for around 2k on an engine i feel like i can get a reasonable engine obviously not 20 thousand miles but definitely less than 150k thanks for any input! -dustin

pulled a pin i didnt need for pin 50 and grounded for the "manual transmission mode" the car drives alot better but bogs a little bit still but now when i come to a stop it dies 50 percent at the time which it never did before. before it acted like it was going to die but never did and now it dies after i put in a pin and grounded it also pin 78 (blue /red ) or ( light green/ Black) i grounded as well it connects to the neutral position switch. i dont actually have the "switch" if that makes a difference.

does anyone know how to upload a pdf file tp here if i could upload my wiring diagram it would probably be alot easier to figure out what i need to do. never getting a subaru from 95 again

bump

thanks for getting back to me, i am having the same problem as well with the fuel cuts at lower rpm w/ hesitation underload its odd and throwing me for a loop. It almost seems like its in limp mode i cant tell because i dont have a instrument panel in my buggy lol

yeah its odd i doubt it would cause this much trouble ill giv that a try and also i tested the voltage and i came back with this. not sure if this should be what its supposed to be but: (I thought pin 2 ((red and yellow on mine)) was supposed to be a 5 volt reference??) pin 1: battery voltage 13~14volts pin 2: ecu 5v reference (red and yellow pin 25 on b84 plug for ecu) no voltage positive voltage. when taken to positive battery terminal the voltage was that of the battery so is there a possible short? Pin 3: ground (Black/Red) 13~14 Volts Pin 4: Signal for ECU (White and shielded) 1 volt @750 rpm & 1.85 volts @3,000 rpm (this is all taken from idle in neutral) I also forgot to mention when i start the car without the MAF on the car it still runs fairly normal, just surges like it will die but never does

Id hate to bring up this dead thread but did you by chance every figure out what the issue was? It was just kind of a brick to the face reading this and eventually the problem was never solved.. or at least stated, this was a pretty helpful topic btw.

thanks heartless i'm going to be checking out those oxygen sensors. I was digging around the car yesterday and figured out there was a bad idle along with taking off my pod filter. I bought a adapter and gasket where the four bolt holes are right before the MAF. i took off the pod filter and it idled like crap almost as if it had a turbulence issue.. could this be a suspect? i also suspect there is a vacuum leak around the injector seats since i reused the old ones so it could have smashed on so it would partially block or let air seep through. I know stupid me for reusing those o- ring seats.. I was gonna use my cousins smoke machine he uses for halloween since they probably work just as good as ones made specifically to find vacuum leaks. I wont be able to check that out for another week since i'm going to Alabama for a music festival here soon. I almost feel as if the MAF is my culprit for making it run lean during hesitation my spark plugs are new and have frosted white tips. I'm assuming these airpod filter adapters are junk but i didn't think it would make the car idle worse since the i took just the filter off. heres what it looks like.

I appreciate the help a lot heartless! But is there any specific test I should aim for or any readings voltage wise? Any links on test would be awesome! And I might check out my fuel injectors and o rings in the rails cause I think my o rings are pretty shot

Also it seems a lot of people have similar problems as me but it ended up being their maf sensor there was a guy that assumed his was okay since it died when he pulled the plug on it and it tested okay but he replaced everything else beside that and it DID end up being that. Any one have anything similar to this??