Sube Buggy

all i have is a crappy scanner that only reads codes that are already available ill barrow a buddy's scan tool. but i don't know if i bypassed it it has voltage but it really doesn't fluctuate. thats why i'm stumped not sure if its the vss, the map, or a possible code that hasnt popped up so i guess ill drive it around alot today and see what happens

well that makes sense ive been trying to find info on what my era subaru does when it goes into limp mode but just came up with a bunch of stuff for newer wrx's sti's do you have an idea? i know theyre similar but what should i look for?

yeah i hope so too but i really appreciate the help though texan. but it seems like the ecu use the map as a secondary log for air flow (if i'm not saying that right sorry) like the MAF sensor inline with the intake is the primary source. Also i don't know why it takes so long for the oxygen and catalyst monitor to run when i have no catalyst... and it should be throwing more codes than one since i'm missing half my systems lol

interesting even with the 95's? I see some people there car runs fine with the code mean while some say it doesnt but their symptoms are not similar.Im really curious why no one has mentioned the map sensor in these swaps, maybe the obd1 blocks dont need it as bad?? now its time to go to a junk yard and find a wiring schematic.. and a vacuum diagram. If i can figure out why this bogs this rail buggy will drive perfectly.

hello guys I have a bogging issue that may or not be related to not having a map sensor. I took a 95 ej22 in a dune buggy with a vw trans. Dont know why but for some reason Subaru made this obd2 my car bogs at around 3000 rpm like some one is cutting out the fuel so it sputters. it idles perfectly through high neutral revs and it drives wonderfully up to 3k rpm (while driving only) once it hits 3rd gear it bogs around 2500 not sure the mph. I can go at a higher rpm but it sputters its way up there though. I did not keep the MAP sensor a lot of the swaps said nothing about it so kinda unsure if i missed something on that i'm finally starting to get codes to pop up. I have p0105 which is for the map (didn't install with swap) could this be my reason i'm bogging. fuel pressure is perfect at idle but not sure when driving the guage is inline between the filter and block. I have the up stream o2 sensor installed but not the second (Assuming it monitors catalyst efficiency). the vehicle speed sensor was a pain too, i figured this was the original culprit? I have small cars hall effect sensor kit thats designed to make the ecu happy i get a steady 4.23 volts when driving i feel like the ecu wants to see between 0 and 5 volts just not 4 please correct me if i'm wrong any issue on the epidemic would be greatly appreciated. thank you more than anything Ill attempt to make a video on youtube of it bogging tomorrow

No I haven't made the exhaust yet I am tomorrow so when I go I'm getting a bung welded in for the o2 sensor neither up or down are in its only the first piece of the exhaust manifold to a flange so that's why I was asking about the downstream catalytic converter questions but it's a 4 speed 70's type 1 super beetle transmission and I'm working on getting a speed sensor I know the wire of the ecu for the signal it should vary between 0 and 5 volts or something like that but it's also obd2 so that's why I think it's bogging but like I said right off the start its prestine

Thanks bush I'll end up doing that the transmission is a 4 speed manual so I don't need to worry about a cooler or anything but I took it on its first test drive yesterday down the road and damn is it a lot quicker off he line then the old 1600cc Vw engine. But it bogged out like it was cutting out the gas at mid high Rpms it acts like it just does cuts back in and cuts out again. The clutch isn't slipping and it idles amazing perfectly at 800 rpm revs perfect no cut outs in guessing this is because it doesn't have the speed sensor or oxygen sensor so this makes me think it went into limp mode not sure of speed or rpm on the dot but the rpm was mid high range but off the line it threw you back a little bit any ideas?

oh i forgot to ask too, how far from the engine should i make the o2 sensor. each port on each side for the exhaust meets into 1 flange i'm assuming to put it after the flange so the ecm can gauge both sides of the exhaust

thanks for the good replies i really like this forum quite a bit but thats cool you live up in stow i'm about 35 ~ 40 minutes south at the most. Its a pretty good setup it is the stock ecm i got a donor car from Cleveland for 900 and drove it home with no problems. tore it apart and threw it in the buggy still working on the radiator set up i hear the procedure is rather easy, and is there any specific hose i need to get to block off the automatic trans cooler lines in the radiator or looping the heater hoses? for example you would want a high pressure line for fuel is there special lines for the radiator?

Thanks for the reply bushwick that's probably what I'll end up doing I don't need a cat nor do I want to buy a new one so I won't be running one its on an old Vw bug chassis from the 70's so it will just have the upstream but the code won't bother me my other question is will that make the car run like crap even if I have the upstream sensor because the light doesn't bother me as long as it doesn't effect the engine to much

Hi guys I have a question maybe someone can give me some info. I have a rail buggy with all Volkswagen parts so its labeled as a "historical" car on the title and plates so in my area we don't have to get emissions check for the car. to make a long story short i don't have cats or need them so can i get away without the second oxygen sensor and keep the upstream for the fuel. The second sensor generally the downstream sensor is for monitoring the catalytic converter?

a rail buggy with a type 1 vw transmission. The amount of room for any radiator is pretty big. Wouldn't the thermostat just close sooner than normal since the radiator is bigger? Since it would open and cool a lot faster?

Its only going to be driven on the street unless its a dirt road or gravel every once and awhile i dont have the money to make a true off road beast. I ended up order a gates timing belt kit tossed it on and fired right up sounded great! thanks for all the help. One last question im trying to find a radiator is it possible to get one to big? obviously im not going to get a diesel sized radiator or anything like that.

Ej conversion addict That's because its almost 180 degrees off maybe not that much but i cleaned the grease off when i found it. I took pictures of the crank lined up to the block and the pulleys and its completely off. well nice then i guess i dont need to remove the bolt! i just tore the covers off not sure it it really matters or not probaly should of put more connsideration into it but oh well. ill do some more research when i get home.

wait a second adventureSubaru you can do a timing belt change with out the harmonic balancer being taken off?!?! but yes the covers are completely ripped off but its a 4 speed lol and my hydrolic clutch is not hooked up yet

I've never had luck with the bump start trick BUT it could be because i have an old super beetle transmission with the big starter probably doesn't have the proper amount of torque output. It is brand new so there is hope. but ill drop it off the jacks and onto the ground and try it after i heat it up. ill try this when i get home from school and report back to you guys. Thanks a ton guys! -Dustin

Excellent Ill have no problem doing the entire thing. That's what I was going to do anyway since It clearly looks like after 160k it has not been touched the only problem is not the crank bolt is not coming out. I live in Ohio so the salt and rust here is pretty brutal. I used propane to heat the connected washer part behind the bolt and not directly on the bolt up for quite a bit of time. It didn't glow red but it was pretty hot. I hit it with about 110 psi 1/2 inch impact for awhile no luck, then heated it up again and used bolts to hold the harmonic balancer to do it manually and still nothing so i'm stuck. I'm not trying to hit it hard enough to break the bolt because as soon as that happens I'm pushing the buggy down my driveway into the lake And i might as well get this really stupid question out of the way, if im facing the timing belt the bolt turns left to loosen right? I'm not getting juked by a reverse thread right?

hello everyone new to the forums and not sure if im in the right area, if not im sorry. I have a concern with my timing belt my common sense tells me the belt skipped some teeth on the crank shaft here some pictures. the mark on the sprocket is way off but i barely ran it enough for me to think that it did skip some teeth. It looks like the belt was never replaced, it looks like total garbage. The motor is out of a 95 legacy lsi (ej22) The other problem (assuming the timing is off because of the location of the timing marks) is that the motor does not start it only back fires and white smoke comes out of the intake. There is no coolant in the motor yet. hopefully I did this twice because i thought it may have been a ground issue or fuel delivery problem but its not. It ran before i made a final wiring harness and thats why im confused. hopefully I didnt destroy it. :(Any info would be great guys thanks! Belt condition