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scalman

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Posts posted by scalman

  1. more VDC testing on diagonals, its allways moves from any situation maybe not right away but it does move , never stall or anything , and in real life situation i would give it more revs sure not going so slow, this just for test making it as hard as its possible

     

     

     

     

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  2. 1 hour ago, pontoontodd said:

    We plan on fixing the other rear strut tower over the winter too.  More on that soon.

    The rear end of that Toyota kicks really bad over those little jumps.  I've noticed that with a lot of Dakar cars though, especially the Peugot DKR, and they still beat everyone else.  My guess is that it is a compromise for better cornering and/or traction.  Jumps don't occur very often naturally so if you have to slow down for them a bit it's probably not as much of a time penalty as having worse traction the rest of the time.  It would be a lot of fun to race the Dakar, it will be interesting to see what it looks like in KSA next year.

    yh i allways thought whats there cost so much for those dakar cars , and main things are drivetrain and suspension there, so not sure jumps they do pretty goodm but depends how you started jump i guess, many stuff can go wrong there still, but you need to push forward no matter what. yes its strange dakar will be on KSA only now. means mostly desert and sand i guess, what else KSA have there ?

    and partly normal road cars can do dakar too just not so fast i guess. i dont like RWD cars on dakar, they strong in going fast on straight but weak on doing any off road there, so depends what tracks they made .

    i remember last year one of our guys , new toyota truck , it was newest model , first day , fuel pump failure... i mean cmon it costs so much and fuel pump goes wrong on first day ? it was not  driver fault or anything just fuel pump went broke. its kinda funny when you think how much those cars cost and they can just brake on first day ... ftw they should be unbreakable for that price 

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     fuel usage for first 33km just in city terrible mileage and after some trip between citys where its very economical engine  with that 5 speed auto. so in average it comes good. and LPG cost half petrol price . and if i would take some grand sherokee same year with 3.0 diesel engine 160kw and all lockers , it would be nice to drive im sure but i would pay for my travels twice as much , and i couldnt afford then drive so much  i think. for now this car is just great on me. im learning it , i like it a lot. and i know it besides new to me 3.0 engine i know rest of car pretty well now . 

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  4. so much work for just chance to drive that car again and maybe other side will brake next time or something else... i mean its nice sure lots job done and good cutting metal, never could do that with angle grinder on ground sure . and if you will leave cage there anyway then cage can be some part of body then maybe and you can weld things to it to make all stronger . 

    and i sold that my outback 2001 for very cheap , i mean all terrain tires does cost more then i get for that car anyway. 

     

    that car that guy you asked was driving in dakar. in 2018

    i think they and someone else said this car only cost like over 100k euros for dakar. just car . in next dakar he will drive mini cooper . 

  5. 10 hours ago, pontoontodd said:

    Do you know this guy?

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u1LKD7s6k3I

     

    More on the body repair soon.  Again, if it didn't have a cage, fuel cell, etc in it I would have replaced it by now.

    Yes its one of our famous rally drivers, he was on dakar now 3 or 4 years with 2 others from our country. 

     

    Can you just remove everything cage fuel cell other stuff and put into good no rust body. Still i think long travel suspension is not for poor subaru bodys, or you need to add lots metal on it to make it stronger.

  6. skid plate modifies from 2001 . its sits higher then was original plastic one as its not covering those exhaust tubes there. i think they pretty strong for my driving style and roads i drive that i dont need to cover there everything. 

    was measuring skid plate for gearbox , still thinking do i need it anyway, but it wouldnt hurt to put that there i guess. later

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    and those recovery points there , they in such place that to use them you need to not have lower part of bumper or remove bumper all together ... they teasing me to just cut it ... im still thinking about it , but soon i will do it i guess

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  7. after some time looking i found it , seems like no rust or very minimum, and seems no rust on important places. 

    bought this 

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    first day at home enjoying , exploring what it is and whats new 

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    found some ides for myself to think of . first pic i like wheels and lift on it and tires, and other pics from guy who actually did what i did for my previous 2001 outback, bumper cut , just he did leave anti fog lights too... not sure is that best look for it but sure he can do more with that and go more extreme

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    found some rust in arches , cleaned it and sprayed bitumen

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    black front grill and leds in DRL 

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    it has that weird in rear one side antifog light and just other side reverse light. and bulb is not very common there, not sure how to upgrade my reverse light at dark times its really crap and in rain and dark its not existed at all. 

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    had some LPG leak fron that LPG converter so needed to change it to more modern one and more powerfull. changed old rubber tubes as well for new

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    rear lift spacers where same from 2001 because they use all same suspension stuff in rear and  same struts, but front is different, ir larger struts now so needed to make new front spacers and made then with camber caster offset now 

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    finished 2'' lift install in dark so enjoyed it , rear lifted more then front think because i have again self level shock in rear as before. so rear lifted about 1,7cm more then front , but maybe thats even better 

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    what numbers i have now with pretty low winter tires at 225/50R17

    and with lift i put +25mm wheel spacers too from 2001 car so now it looks pretty cool with that. without spacers my rear tire rubs spring when wheel is lifted more

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    i think rear bumper this time is not even a problem on that height, and with larger tires it would go even more up 

    but for front bumper i need to think something, and plus i will make hi lift jack adapters again on this car too. i allreadu dont have larger enough jack to lift my car as it is now, so that hi lift jack would be so much easier and  faster way to lift car 

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    one strange thing about front sway bar, i tried to discinnect it first just one side , but then i measured how much i need to lift until one side front wheel lifts up fron ground , and its same number with sway bar connected or disconnected both side, so no difference there on this gen anymore so no point i will use it now. 

    and when car on ground its like 46cm from fender to wheel center , and then until wheel lifts from ground i need to lift it until 55cm both with sway bar on or off. so its like 9cm travel down. its not that bad and with sway bar on. so this will do for now. i removed rear sway bar , didint felt any change in cars handling.

     

    so yh anyone have any ideas for me maybe. i need to do something with fron bumper well like cut it i guess. what else could be done. i need still nice looking car nothing extreme there just to make similar effect as i had on my 2001 , where i could just slide on to anything with my front . 

    i like that power 180kw its no joke from 115kw and we dont use here kw anyway so its better bumber at about 245hp or something. it goes nice , that 5EAT Sportshift gearbox works well. VDC systems is better on this car and less cutting engine now so after i will put some skid plates , and change front bumper i will test it more sure, maybe on snow allready depends how weather will change.

    for now i dont have money to put some new AT tires on it so not sure how it will go now with thos winter tires, bu they almost new so still lots  grip there i think. 

     

    VDC now much better with all that more power to play. cant do nothing more until bumpers so low and no skid plate yet so just some light VDC testing , but its much much better gripping allready, this was before lift even

     

     

  8. On 10/14/2019 at 1:16 AM, pontoontodd said:

    We met with J and he took us to some whoops outside of town that were a little too big to run fast over with the Subarus. He was fairly impressed with what they could do and took us to some smaller ones along a dirt/gravel road. They were similar to the super whoops in the UP but narrow and on top of a crowned trail so we couldn't comfortably go much over 30mph. Unfortunately there was a ditch I didn't see until the last second and didn't slow down enough to prevent from plowing into the opposite side of it. It cracked one of the coolant fittings for the oil cooler.

     

    B and Z went into town to get some fittings and we took off the skidplate and cleaned things up and talked with J.  After we got it back together we ran the cars over the whoops again (including T's for reference). J recommended valving changes at both ends. He had a small bottle that was good for charging maybe eight shocks but wasn't fully pressurized. I asked him if he had a vice and he asked if we had a receiver. I told him we have 1.25” receivers and he says with a look of disgust “that's not a receiver.” We were able to C clamp it to the rear bumper of the Outback. He also had a little toolkit that had an allen wrench and spanner wrench we needed. He left to pick up some steel as we figured it would take about four hours to go through all the shocks in the desert. 

     

     

     

     

    It didn't feel a lot better in the car, mainly we noticed the car stayed almost perfectly level but bounced up and down. It definitely looked better from outside on video.  He also took us to a deeply whooped out recent racecourse leading to some embedded rocks, B and I both thought the Outback rode better over them than with the old shock tuning in Texas. J had mentioned earlier in the day he'd never owned a car, only pickup trucks, but was looking up Subarus on Craigslist by the end of the day.

     

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    ohh wow that outback XT looks cool. interesting front skid plate or skid box this should be called. why so low hanging ? not much lift too looks like. would it be possible to know something more about that car maybe. ? im just looking for some ideas for mine. 

  9. tried lift spacer for one side in front and it seems like they on center and no rubbing nothing , so that lift would be coming in next couple days if no rain 

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    thats how much travel down it can maker with sway bar disconnected at least one side. 

     

    longer sway bar links will be needed if keep sway bar, but they seem similar to rear links and they longer , so will see maybe those will fit to fron after lift to keep that sway bar on. 

  10. VDC with more powerfull engine works much better , now VDC doesnt kills engine at all, so no matter what wheels still spin and car did not stall , as was before with 2.5 engine. so much upgrade now , VDC will work much better im sure, i just need some lift and larger tires would be perfect , but no money now for new tires. 

     

     

     

  11. you mean EZ30 and 5eat ? because its 5 speed sportshift on this one 

    my  BFG TA KO2 are done allready they need to go ,no reason to put them on that, and i duno they made those discs larger again i think , but heard that people using 16 rims on them still so maybe they would fit. sure could try just put them on to see if they fits. so in any way i would need new tires if i would want to put allterrains again. but for now and because money reason i could just use those winter tires that are on car, and winter tires does good offroad too on subarus at least. 

    i could try my lift from my old car now on this , it should be same bolt paterns i think. but for now i will enjoy some non lifting driving i thing. well to see how it goes. maybe just put skid plate if its fits from older car. 

    other thing if someone would want to buy that 2001 outback it needs to have wheels on it and all stuff  so it could drive i think. i mean i dont wanna strip it because i dont have place to keep car if it will be non driven . so it must drive , cant remove wheels or other parts , can remove lift though, and maybe use self level shocks if they still works. instead would put normal shocks. 

    i cant use more money now on car to modify it or buy new tires or stuff, so for now i will just drive it like this, could just put some things on it that i can make myself , like skid plates and lift , those i could do for now. until its not too cold at least outside. 

     

    almost no rust i ment that rust its on those extra steel plates that are near engine and maybe somehwere else that i didint saw yet , but on most important part there is no rust. but again this have all 4 wheel arches covered with plastic covers  so i couldnt see under them yet too. 

     

    i dont want to beat it off road and make it look bad ... hehe. i would avoid that as much as possible, just drive it off road some not beat it , you know . not like you at least no way , never. hehe 

  12.  

    1 hour ago, pontoontodd said:

    So this is an Outback?  What year?  Where is the rust?  Underhood pics?  What are your plans for this one?  Do you still have the old one?

    yes found outback for good price all stuff in car, LPG in car , almost new winter tires, so i no need do anything to it for now. 

    2005/12  so its more like 2006 , and i didint saw any rust no under car or in places where my rust was worse on car so no nothing there, and this person bought it for same reason too because it was no rust .

    i duno plans i saw those outbacks looks good lifted and people say they better if you put in rear older gen 2003 struts in . so maybe i will change struts with lift , thinking about mine self leveling struts on my 2001 outback , they would fit but how to check are they good, i mean they work kinda different arent they , with that self level stuff and all. or its not worth t o use them more ? not sure. so first lift then i will see. i wonder those lower black parts on bumpers do they removing like separating or they just for looks and they all one piece. if they separating then i could just remove that lower lip part and i would have good bumper no need cut. i kinda no wanna cut this pretty car haha. they sits higher allready from 2nd gen outback so with lift they would go even higher. 

    this time i would like to keeep sway bars so maybe make extension for them so they would work normaly with original links, or find longer links. so i could use it on longer trips still feel good on road.

    engine its just amazing how it pulls , wow. compare to 2.5 with 4eat its like sports car , with that sportshift function its even more pulling . it goes from 70km/h to like 120km/h like its nothing. sound great too. sounds like some nissan GTR. very nice and louder then normal as owner did some midifiactions so it sound more. 

    it should fit 16 rims too is it ? because now its on 17, and i wouldnt want buy 17 more agressive tire i think they cost much more, but not sure about that. 

    yes still have that outback. maybe someone will buy it just for parts because its with VDC and all. engine still runs ok just leaks oil 

     

    looks like that bumper in one piece then

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    i was hoping its kinda 2 separate pieces ... 

    so then i duno will lit it i guess and then drive around and see what i need for my needs where i drive and such, if i will need something done then maybe i will do some mods to those bumpers , but after i drove it around . 

     

    4'' lift is too much i think 

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    maybe just this much lift would be enough

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    and this time i kinda wanna keep that driving style same as before lift , that stiffnes, so im thinking if i leave sway bars this would help 

     

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