scalman
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Posts posted by scalman
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hello there brother.
yh pretty much next door , some 250km to Riga from my place. sweet looking car there. never seen that one here localy.
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O2 sensor came back to working again i guess. well for now at least. so enjoying snow even if its melting now and very wet , so its hard to drive trough it
more VDC testing
https://i.imgur.com/ARoEOMw.gif
fun in deep snow
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yes i learned i need some kind of fancy wide band 5 wire sensor. damn i made mistake there. i should check on car first then order something.
my sensors in catalyst are
1 liambda 22641AA100
2 liambda 22690AA420and i found that first one that i need just bosch one. some said me denso would be better but i cant find denso localy .
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fixed that bad rust in rear. for now one side. found still good metal there. put some tubes inside and then covered that 2mm stell plate. same as my engine skid plate
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so may ugly rusted rear subframe is not that bad as it was seem to. tried to fix worse side and did it outside on snow in dark. no prob with some led light. didint had any other metal tubes so used what i had . when i cut out all the rusty parts found that other metal is pretty good still there. So put inside some tubes . just need to cover that with some metal sheet and will be good.
other unpleasant thing is that i checked online what O2 senors wmy car should have and i bought it .. very nice some denso dox-0307 sensor . 4 wires . all nice ... but then what i have in car is not same
ftw is that ? why i have 5 wire sensor and 6 pins connector ?? can i still use it like weld it to wires that ECU needs , or my ECU needs all 6 wires there. but no other models no newer ones uses more wires sensor . why my car does ?
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1st gear VDC off into fresh snow . nice to see that all wheels goes
https://i.imgur.com/R46xRVD.gif
another thing . when you put new strut mount on strut it should not move to sides as has little loose is it ? it should fit perfect and be stable yes ?
because when i changed strut mount mine was little loose and that bearing was not same height as was that step on strut. maybe someone put wrong struts or sold me wrong mount ?
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VDC Off . 1st gear on auto. testing flat out pedal to metal was curious will front and rear wheels will spin in snow same speed will it be equal split. pretty nice to see that when i did flat out all wheels where just spinning same speed or it looks at least as same
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maybe you can help me with other isue then too, i just want to know is it my front shocks that are bad , so i did lift 2'' with strut spacers and removed sway bars, both front and rear. so those shocks can drop more down as i understand now and could it be that they like maxing its limits by droping thats why i have that weird sound when i dirve faster on speed bumps. like if its higher speed bump i drive on it maybe 40-50km/h and i think my front wheels are geting in air for some time and then its that nasty sound not like knock but like some rubbery kinda sound. like my shocks droped too much and when they landing they make that wierd kinda floping sound like vacum sound or something .
could it be that if shocks on my car where never changed yet from factory they just allready tired . most important if i put new shocks like KYB ones will that problem be gone and i could push them harder , well at least go through rough terain without any bad sounds ??
thanks.
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nice . did you put those rear shocks on angle for purpose ? i was when i put spacers on my shocks and i didint put any spacer on arm my shock is allways on agle to one side because that spacer is straight and i thought it would be better spacer that goes on angle maybe .. but what happens when wheel goes fully up ? you checked that ?
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Yh i will see more to that. Yes its rusty in rear mostly. In front i would say its ok. Just its leaks oil what must be infamous head gaskets an i have bad o2 sensors on catalyst wich i will replace soon.
I cant work on my rusty rear now as garage is not acceptable that i used before . uncle said until weather gets warm. That could be couple month from now. Maybe i could find some used but not clicking steering rack there for cheap and used that. Would yoh say my lift and my sway bars removing make that steering rack go so bad? It was not so bad like that before.
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cool . was you in zero G there ?
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changed my brake pads outside on snow
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i disconnected steering link and moved it with hand not on buching and its klicks same. in video its very loud maybe too close mic to source. but its getting worse with time, like in last year its got much worse.
so its not those parts i checked those
curious to try remove boot and look for some spring there... on what side ? or its on both sides that spring ?
thats sound comes from inside or from there
i was changing boots on rack but dont know what can i do there ??
so if play will be from there , what i could do about it then ?
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Yes thank you all i will try that, so you think its fixable? Would be great to fix that myself.
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1 hour ago, pontoontodd said:
Pull the boot back and take a look. On the Outback should just be a spring that you can slide off and slide the boot out. Probably inner tie rod end or rack bushing.
What about that bolt that kinda tights up that or lossens it. Is that worth checking?
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my steering column how bad it is how bad it clicks. no its not bushings. its from column itself. inside it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tANG0S_lFYM&list=UURpccqpuVAYzXFgVqVxKYCQ
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some day some day... i will try to find good metal or place where i could put some new metal tube in there and then strenghten all that at least. still couple month until warm weather. maybe it will hold until then.
yh i know i need to weld that just now its not possible at my uncles garage or i need to ask somenone to do that but i doubt some welder would do this job or it would take like couple weeks and i cant do that. its my daily car . my welder in garage but i cant get car into garage and its cold outside so ...
yh thats salt eats everything ...
i dont have money for other car and i wouldnt sell it in this shape for much . but its VDC model and rare. if i could fix that rear suspension things there it will still drive for some time.
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enjoying snow . VDC off is better to go to fresh snow to make track, then via track VDC on is going ok .
inside car
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my rear subframe holding on 2 bolts from 4. front 2 rusted off from mounting places and they dropped couple cm down . thats why i got that knock sound when im changing from spining wheels forward to backwards on deep snow and places.
hello darkness my old friend..
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Thank you for all info . thats first time im learning what i could do with my suspension without modifing it too much to make it better. but as you said its just experimental and you dont know still how it would perform on street on corners , how stable car would be on high speeds changing lanes and such yes ? so ill be waiting for those tests
as its my daily driver .
about those bushings then what if change them to polyurethane ones ? would that help with that flex and they would make more stable feel to car isn it ?
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i wonder whats keeps my rear suspension from droping more down when i put 2'' spacer on strut i couldnt lower that arm to reach shock mount height that arm was too high and it was not going down more so i was jacking up shock up witj jack to meet that mounting point. could it be as you said to release bolts on those links so they reposition themselfs ?
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aftermarket ones doesn't even work on stock cars , i buy used OEM's from scrapyards for cheap in pairs and have no prob. so big NO for aftermarket . wanna do it cheap ? go with used OEM's , buy a lot of them. they will hold ok still.
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esting diagonal in snow on angle VDC off vs on . tried switch between them to see what does what,. VDC was trying so hard to get out of there but at times it seems just not enough power as VDC cuts power even more. more power would do much better i guess. 3.0 models or 2.5 turbo should do that better. still in some situations it might help and less chances to brake something as VDC doesnt give too much revs
that VDC kinda mimics lockers just its not brakes any axles by doing that. yes its not as good as 100% locker but i think better then half lockers.
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58 minutes ago, FerGloyale said:
Scalman, one thing I would recommend.....is to loosen EVERY pivot bolt in yer whole rear suspension while the car is in the air.......that alone will let the suspension bushing untwist, and allow a little more droop if you have any extra to be had. Then retighten bushings with the car just barely set down on the ground. (wood blocks under rear hubs) This "centers" the bushings so they aren't constantly fighting the suspensions movement as much. If you really want to take advantage of yer lift try to find a slightly longer shock to put in there. Not sure what there is in yer market.
thats great thing to try as i was kinda thinking that they can be kinda twisted more then usual with lift as all went down. it would be great to find just longer struts that would fit there. i found somewhere about some toyota surf model rear strut fits in front or smt. but im not sure what could fit our rear. and my rear is still self leveling shocks from factory. would be great to have most of this suspension for as much cheap as it possible but i cant do any welding on links as then i would not pass MOT
and would i do some damage to drive without rear bump stops. as one is rusted off so could remove another as well. would i damage something if i go without them like shocks would max is travel and would get damaged ..
hello from Latvia
in Meet n' Greet. Your USMB Welcome Center
Posted · Edited by scalman
Ppl here cant meet from subie clubs 100km around, even like 35km its hard for ppl to meet with cars have fun. All so busy these days. Think latvia may have larger subie clubs then us.
Does all them have so long bed? I saw others with shorter ones, or they cut?