scalman

yh i should do it soon. because like now outside hot and oil leaks even more . but i wonder if it leaks in rear part engine why my oil filter and exaust bolts are in oil too.but anyway it need to be done . when i bought car haed gasket line was all in seelant. why put sealant in there does it need sealant when you change head gasket i think you dont need. do you ? so oems i have must be those type but then there are other kind for this engine too and they stainless steal and then some diff look without black lines as i understodd problem was that they where one layer gaskets so if changing you need to put something better multi layer stuff found some good info for myself too so i have external for sure and maybe internal too as my engine overheats

its just shouldnt overheat that fast because last year or year before it wasnt, and i wasnt loosing so much oil before too . some poeple said me ohh you overheating that will be head gaskets... but why those connected ? does my coolant channels inside engine clogged or what because of bad head gasket. when i change oil it doesnt look any wierd and i dont loose coolant so much well it goes away with time sure but not that i would see like in week ir so . so i still dont get it how head gaskets are responsible for engine overheat. what if its gearbox well if it have too much oil , then it gives trouble to engine and its overheats , could that be ? though i saw other cars on videos like they testing them some city AWd cars and after couple tries they saw ohh its overheated we must wait ....

driving normaly no. even driving normalu off road like if its road and im going forward and not stuck in one place its fine still. if i use like 1st gear more i mean its auto but you can feel which gear its using by revs, so if its on low gear or like stuck in sand mud of just torturing car for some reasons then its got hot fast , and like hot to 120 celcious even those numbers are from ecu from phone app torque so there i can see exact temp . and its like sky high... after its cools down coolant level same but didint checked for bubles. i cant make it overheat in city or on normal roads it must be some torturing for it like stuck in place and spin wheels not moving just in place or similar. im almost positive that my head gasket leaks they where before but now i got oil puddle small every day mean everytime i park car and when i come back next day or even same day later its oil on ground. i cant see back of engine but in front where is oil filter i saw before that oil sunks trough where head gasket sits about that place. not sure how else to check i got oil on frame more on rear part on engine that its hidden so i cant see that part after some time my exhasut header screws have oil on them like drops and they all oily and black too. oil filter getting oily too after longer time but i cant be sure where that come from . will check those stuff that you both mentioned. thanks. i should do head gaskets anyway before people start to complain of my oil leaks on street.

i maybe asked this but again about overheating... so weather is warmer with that not first time i overheat my car in some offrady stuff , well any stuff that car need to go for longer period of time on low gear and high revs , now idrove via sand and it went over 110 celcious after some 15-20 min of driving not just straight sand roads but some harder places and its jumps overheating all over , VDC turn off because that , well its hot there. so now whats become hot and why ? Coolant Engine oil Gearbox oil ?? coolant level was ok today and oil was ok too in engine. in gearbox seems to be ok too its hard to measeure it properly as when to do that cold or hot . so not sure maybe in gearbox its too much oil though. could too much oil cause overheating ? too low i know but today i was on good levels. and its just when you push harder , then you drive for longer on straight road and its come back to ok temp. ohhh fans seems to be spining ok both ... well i think they do problems i have allready : oil leak seems to be head gaskets. it goes for long time allready but now it became larger problem it just leaks everyday, or more like everytime you leave car after driving so it leaks untill it gets colder. because its all ways same amount oil to leak not more not less. smell of burning oil while driving or while stopping after long drive but thats just oil burns on exhaust i guess as i removed all covers from exhaust. and then what about some air in system . can air come to gearbox oil system when you removing radiator and disconnecting those 2 tubes that goes into gearbox ? maybe air in coolant system ? coolant pump ? what else ? what things first to check or change without removing engine ? is it just overheats because head gaskets bad ? can it do it just because that ? after time coolant and oil levels go lower as they leak i think but coolant not so fast , oil faster. so now car kinda cant drive any off road roads more harsh or digging in one place because its overheats fast what factors cools down engine when you not moving since radiator then not cooling itself with air ? its that other vent ? so engine overheats because gearbox overheats or gearbox not overheat ? i mean we dont have gearbox temp do we ? so its same system then ?

I thought brake pads so i checked them on both sides and they not loose. And this wasnt before it just appeared at some point. When i was removig rear axle and disconnected all links that trailing arm just fell down meaning bushing parts where separated And for front ones checked brake pads too and no loose there. And its not doing it every time just when i stop and start to move. Then after i move forward and if i brake no sound.so i guess lower bushings. But wierd problem that i cant find those i need on local shops now wow thats lame subaru support there.

yes and many companies that you or others naming that i know not here localy . and sending such small stuff would cost me like more then part itself its not worth it. so im stuck what i can find localy . i dont think i need just stronger end links i need them longer too. and i have localy stronger links this type and i need other kind , but maybe i dont even need sway bars as iv been driving without them for long time now. if when you braking front or moving from stop or going backwards from stop and using brakes you hear some kind of metalic click sound like something moved while you changed directions rapidly this must be front lower bushing is it ? i had those before going bad and i put some cheap ones i guess bad quality china ones but good thing that they easy to replace at least. so now im looking for rear ones20254AE03A and front ones21067GA050

i was going without them for long time until now. just put front one for week maybe and brake that link right away, my point was make car more stable maybe on higher speeds. im just trying to find problem with vibrations and whine so i could enjoy still longer trips on higher speed. now i think my rear trailing arm bushings went off and maybe on both sides as i have sounds of kinda rubber moving or sliding from place to place. so those didint hold very long as i changed one maybe 1 year before or about that. saw people puting there some whiteline or similar stuff that comes from 2 parts and no need pressing inside it . but does that holds longer , is that worth it. problem is that i cant press those myself yet...dont have tool

inner CV yes i thought that too, but 2'' lift on those cars is normal and people who done same didint complained of vibrations, so maybe just my CV's need to be changed or one of them at least. i was going long time without sway bar but now i thought ohh maybe it will fix my vibrations in front, but it didint so yh i will take it out again i guess. i need to take out that sterring rack and look at it can i tight that bolt or not , then i need to look other steering rack even used one but without lossenes. and that whine noise in rear , i changed that bearing to used one from scrapyard, so what a chance that i put just bad one , now im thinking of that everytime i drive ,im trying to hear something new i try different speeds and such and im thinking what could it be. if i lift one side rear and put it on drive and it will spin that one wheel will i hear anything that way ? someone said lift it all car in air and try then but subaru AWD system wont spin all wheels if car will be in air , will it ? im just thinking that noise shouldnt be there and there must be the way to fix that. but again can tire alone make that noise if its slightly wrong in camber, in alignment center they said that camber is slightly off but not like too much. i duno, like why noise changes depends how many weight is in rear like with full rear seat people i think its whines louder. today i drove and i thought its kinda loud even on 60km/h speed.

so front sway bar link on passenger side broke so i removed just that one and looked how it goes on angles with just one side connected top on flat ground, then both sides one by one and it touches that arm when flexes on passenger side so it would make knock noise if i would do some driving with diagonals. cant dissconect both ends because then its nowhere to put sway bar and keep it safe. and with my lift and original links its just doesnt hold.

yes how that living space there looks with camping mode on.

well how i find vibration is on cruise control on fixed speed, so i go with it and i slightly touch gas pedal and its vibrating. so front axles CV's could be tested full wheel turn and try drive on circles . go it . i think they not making any sound that way . plus im using 25mm wheel spacers, i duno maybe all louder sounds started with those wheel spacers there. but not sure. and then wheel itself vibrating more with speed ohh my steering rack inside has play so my both front wheels have some play and driver sine is more. but is that reason for sound ? dont think so for vibration ? could be is it ? but virbation comes allready from like 70km.h speed and thats not fast tires bfg ta ko2 they not silent but in past they wherent making that kid sound. vibration is in front but whine sound in rear. at least it seems rear. well its not comfy for passengers when i drive them and i do that quite often. no prob for me or my partner as i put loud music and i dont hear sound, but with passengers they complain and i hear that myself too. so front bearing was changed to new, rear bearing changed to used one OEM. but its was in ok condition and one ive pull out was not ing doo condition. still after changing sound stayed same. tried diff psi in tires , still same sound. and its not one line sound its like wu-wu-wu-wu sound just and high speed its become as one sound still i can hear that kinda vibration sound, like something its not balanced or off balance.

So what causes loud whine kinda sounds and some vibration with it? Vibration comes to gas pedal with speeds 90km/h and more . more speed more vibration on pedal and wheel . So its Tires Bearings Axles But could lift or wheel spacers help that sound appear as axle working on diff angle Changed front wheel bearing and rear on passenger side. Change tire places from reat to front. Same . changed axles rear both sides to other ones. Same. Is it just tires become loud as they wear now some? But then vibration on pedal what that causes? Some say could be axle cv one of front ones inner one . Dont have any summer or other silent tires to test if its tires.

another my test of VDC in sand with diagonals so its 1 or 2 wheels just in air or have no traction. after some time torturing it coolant did overheated went over 100 degrees celcious so with that VDC turned off as seen in end video, but all in all it depends how good brakes working and how fast they can brake wheels because VDC uses brakes but if they dont works perfect then VDC wont work good i guess and at about 3:12 wheels dont spin but car dont move as well. thats when VDC does that wierd thing that it cuts engine power so car cant even move or cant spin wheels for some reasons. and i thought putting back front say bar is good idea to make car feel better on road, well not so much...this just happened, and look what position that sway bar sits , car was on flat ground there so its not good, i need custom or longer links there, those original ones just dont work first time i go to some diagonal it just brakes. it happened before same thing

i was thinking if those 3 rear links would be like custom adjustable with bolt so you can change its lenght as you need . why you didint made them as that ?

looks good , but see how those upper links going on angle still. so you think they wont interfier with all traveling up and down in long term.? so those links now let you use full travel of those shocks ? thats amazing. so links are custom made yes ? they not just from some other car ?

I mean that way they all twisted

Ohh cool. Does your upper link custom made? Because stock its just wont let wheel drop down more Pic without wheel and from closer would be cool to see how it all looks.

Rear links just not made for longer travel as they go twisting to other side . and that top link is holding everything most. But its enough for 5cm spacer on top strut but not more. Just imagine how all those bushings are tortured when weel goes down and everything twist all those bushings are allways twisted.

Or you need more torque to wheels and car will move thats with low gear and traction control. Subaru wont move because its just dont have that. Vdc stops wheels that in air or just spins them slowly and it would spin those other 2 that have grip if it would have just more torque to do so but it dont have. Not all hills tracks can be done just with going fast thats just not possible and too dangerous some places you just need to do it slowly and there your old subaru wont work where someone with low gear ant tc will.

no i didint yet tried test that i would put tire psi to very low levels . for sand it would work i guess or for mud maybe like for longer track. here is just did test on small area thats wasnt chalenging if you go there faster but it could make it impossible if you go super slow as that when you could see how those traction controls work i wonder how newer VDC models that have separate TC button but VDC works all time would do . they should do better there as they can turn off engine cuting but leave braking part. i would like to have that button too if it would be possible found there where is that TC part and make it work serarate. but here i dont see problem that my tire psi is too high as car has grip still on other 2 wheels and in end it stops all 4 wheels and just stays in place . it realy does that . its very wierd you floor pedal to metal and car just whines like wounded animal and not move not spin wheel just cant do nothing because its cut itself off. and i dont need more mementum to go up there, just some. fun thing is to find when VDC works best is when engine gives you most power so its not on low revs and not when car stops and tries to move, because with auto you cant rev higher before you start going as with manual. so when i going and if im keeping gas pedal on same level or push it more VDC works really well there makes minimum wheel spins and push car forward pretty well. but not from full stop. or it can do from stop just not up hill . when i saw newer grand sherokee 2005-2010 models that have IFS suspesnion in front but it have electronic low gear button and 3 e lockers all around and how it can go on slow speeds climb its just amazing. so with diesel and most powerfull petrol engines it gets those e lockers in diffs and with other models it gets traction control based on braking too, si similar to subaru in ways, but it just has so much torque and low gear that its enough for that heavy car to do really well . people here paying even like 4 k euros for quiet old pre VDC foresters without anything there, when you can find for 4-5k 2007 grand sherokee CRD 3.0 diesel with 3 e lockers. if i would have that money i know what i would choose. and momentum cant allways help subaru climb, the moment when 2 wheels in air it just looses all that momentum and thats it its done. and thats where your thing with long travel would help. i saw one project here localy for about 700 euros only person was making pretty long travel stuff there and its amazing. just its not road legal anymore if your links are custom made or redone.

short example how acts normal old school pre VDC subaru oh diagonals, and here is both axles diagonal plus its up on hill. itsj ust digs down in seconds and thats it with VDC though you have no digging down but it could cut your power so much that car wont move forward too. but you can allways reverse and go up there on little diff angle what is missing there is low gear and more torque to axles. and not cuting power would be nice too. it has ok traction control with braking all it needs here is have more power too or low gear so it could push car forward. in my case it cant so i needed there to pull back and give more mementum.

yes they different lenght , now i know and now i know that i cant use those longer ones in rear on my lifted outback. it looks not much diff but thats enough for my suspension to move fully down , or lock in middle and wont move down more.

Getting ready for car camping and photograghy

took apart mine and measured and yes ones are longer then others and those longer ones locks on my lifted suspension in half way down so i just cant use them. so i changed CV on those shorter axles and im good. now i will have 2 long and 2 short axles so later just need to change CV in ends. but its pretty messy job to do they about 1.2cm shorter thats fully compressed down. so how that could work with even longer travel suspension then ? you need longer links then and redone all arms i guess anyway. now i remember that when i just lifted car first time i couldnt put down rear to put bolt on strut so i was compressing strut so that i could put that bolt in it. now with those shorter axles in rear i just push down all with hand and im almost reaching enough to put strut bolt down there. means they flexing more down. when i put that longer axle its just locks in half way down and stops thats it its locked. amd put back front sway bar with links. links are little too short so they allways on tension and on some angle that they not supose to be . but i will do more high speed driving as weather get warmer so it will give me some more stable feeling of car i guess as my sterring shack is quiet loose now. tried drive 90 then 100 then 120 after 100 sound comes from rear i duno i done all wheels rebalanced i changed front bearing rear bearing and still that whine in rear so maybe its really tires then not sure. all people that drive in rear when i go more speed they all complain thats its pretty loud there. i know it as im driving alone i put music loud and such so its doesnt bother me so much but what can i do more? changed bearings and axle and still same whine after 90 km speed. and after 100 some vibration to wheel ... not sure again what gives vibration as i just done all wheels balancing. so what else can give vibration ? i know axles can so i changed one rear one and its nothing changed. maybe its front then. ... best way would be try put all 4 wheels summer quiet tires and then test but i dont have those.

it could be but people who have hundreds axles and hundreds other parts taken apart they should know what fits what ... i guess not much lifted outbacks looking axles at their places, because for not lofted outback those would fit no problem. well it must be axle because when i put back my old axle it was working ok , then i put this back and its locked. i mean its not moving like dont have any space so its bad thats why its locked if its too long i mean it can be just 2cm longer and its enough for it to lock maybe. i will take it out tomor i think and i will measure then lenght of those both axles and see. o buy them on scrapyard and im saying i need axle for outback 2001 and they say ok we got those then they bring me one and saying this is it . and until know i didint had any problems with them, so in future i will say i need legacy ones or outback or other model impreza ones that are shorter.