jluther

Thanks everyone. Now that I've had some more time to search, I found a few relevant threads, i'll post them here to help anyone who comes along this thread in the future. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=5615 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=51716 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=5145 It seems that all these cases are automatics. Some say they've replaced the starter and ignition etc and it still happens. Others suggest it may be the neutral safety switch (which I think is the push button on the baseplate for the shifter of her car). I've always wondered what that button does. So when it warms up I'll clean the battery terminals, in the mean time I'll tell her to just play with that button and try starting in neutral.

Sorry to create a new thread if this has been discussed before but there are so many threads regarding starting issues, it's tough to find the right one. In our 91 Legacy, we have a starting problem that I hear about a lot and have witnessed a few times in this car. When you turn the key, it does nothing. But if you hold the key in the start position, eventually it cranks right up. Tends to happen in colder weather, in the morning. My girlfriend came back in saying that it won't start this morning so I went out and tried. All the accessory lights and stereo come on and then if you hold it in place for 5 seconds it finally turns over and starts immediately. I think I heard a hum before it started, and after reading other starting posts, must be the fuel pump doing it's job. She thinks it's due to the transmission not thinking the car is in park. She thinks wiggling the transmission shifter helps, although I'm unconvinced. I think it's just holding the key there. Just to present all the facts, she's had a check engine light on for a while, that needs to be addressed soon. I'm guessing this one is a oxygen sensor, but will get the code read soon. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks

I bought the car with 94K miles, salvage title, rebuilt. Idler broke and new engine installed at 119K. (At the time, I didn't know timing belts, and never replaced it, at which time they would have noticed the failing idler, maybe). This engine started knocking at 145K, 26K after the install, and with melted heat tabs. It directly says in the warranty that heat tabs cannot be melted, oil must be changed every 3,000 miles, and be within 2 years and 24K. Oil was changed at exactly 3750 intervals, give or take 100 miles. They commended me on that. But it's still over what the contract warranty says. We're slightly over 24K, which isn't too big of a deal, they originally said, but they cannot get past the heat tabs. To me it seems I have a warranty thru them and only them, but they have a warranty thru SoA. So if SoA won't take it back because of the heat tabs, they wouldn't do the swap for free. I agree about the profit factor still being in there. It sucks. I think I'm going to go with the 84K used engine from a rear ended forrester ($1300 installed). Hopefully they'll replace the timing belt and they said they'd do the head gasket work for free. The shop foreman said he'd drive it home and back to work (50 miles) just to make sure every thing is done correctly and it's running properly.

Update: I wrote them a letter explaining exactly how I feel. They seem sympathetic. The gen. manager told my girlfriend that he wanted us both to come in and talk to them in person. The GM, shop foreman, and customer service manager all met with us after close on a Friday afternoon. The outcome was they'd split the cost of whatever I want to do. New engine for $2200 (3 year, 36k), Engine from a rear ended Forrester with 84K for $1300 (6 mon, 6K) , or they'd buy my car. Not the best outcome, but still better. I'm still not sure which option I'll go with though..

So I called around to a few places that put in Subaru engines and explained my situation. Everyone is encouraging pursuing this farther but all think that since it's written in the warranty they'll probably not bend. One shop claims that they can put in new cranks, main bearing, connecting rod, etc but leave the short block in there. He says he'll give me a special deal on all of this and warranty it for a year no questions asked for $1100. This is without seeing the car and based on my best descriptions. I still think it's not my fault. I don't know who's fault it is, but it's not mine, and people need to stand behind their work and products.

It is relevant and thanks for your reply. who exactly would I start talking to? I have had a fair share of talking with the shop and they won't budge. However, I can't get him to call Subaru and ask them what they think of the situation. Super Rupair's a pretty good shop for those of you in CO, right? I don't think they're out to get me. And I imagine that they read this forum, at least one of the mechanics has to.

I have a 97 obw and had to buy a toyota truck to get to these same mountain trailheads. My toyota makes it up all reasonable roads, we can talk specific trailheads if he wants. My subaru does not get me to all the trailheads, but is better (MPGs, comfort, a/c, etc.) for the ones that are mellow.

Just talked to the shop again, and they said it's a 1/1000th of an inch of slack in the main bearing of the crankshaft. The rod goes up and as it's about to make the turn back, the bearing has slack makes the knock. He said if I ran 50 weight oil, it'd probably run another year as is, if I don't stress the engine up hills or whatever. I live in Colorado, all I see are hills. I live here for the hills. He said he can't find fault in anything. He can't pin it down to something they did wrong or anything. All the parts seem to work okay, it doesn't overheat, we went thru the one scenario 15 months ago and he said it should have been okay on that. He just knows when they send the engine back to Subaru, they won't reimburse their shop when they see the heat tabs. They said they'd give me $1500 for the car if it had a good title, but the title is a salvage title (I bought the car from their used car lot originally, because they buy wrecked cars and fix and sell them, sometimes with salvage titles).

So how strict are the warranties? If I've gone over the 24K (I think it was right at 24K, maybe a thousand on either side) or the 2 years (I think I still have a few months for that) or if I didn't get an oil change at exactly 3K intervals (isn't that a little unnecessary, I did at or below every 4K), and the heat tabs melted. Would there still be a chance?

See, it never really "failed". I took it in because I just started hearing the knocking. The only time there was an issue with possibly overheating was 1.5 years ago. That was roughly 2 months after it was installed. I noticed it was a little low in coolant, added some and the temp never went up again. 91 sedan is the lady's.

The short block was new. I didn't go for the rebuild. I figured if I spent the little extra it was for a new one, it would honestly last forever. Shop is Super Rupair The time that the temp gauge went up 3/4 to H was about 1.5 years ago. My oil looked good they said. No black deposits or anything. Isn't there any way to fix the rod? I don't have any of the paperwork with me here, so I can't be sure about the warranty. It says the oil has to be changed every 3000 miles, and the shop recommended me change it every 3750. So that's what I did. Which I guess could void the warranty. Still upset... What percentage of the KBB would you think I could get for it? Would anyone buy a car without a motor? It does still drive fine for now. They said I could easily get a couple thousand more miles out of it.

Heat tabs are an alloy of metals that has a particular melting point. It has a logo stamped on it. If the engine gets to that temperature, the tab melts and the logo is gone. They can't be popped off and/or replaced. They're are just a way for the shop to tell whether or not the engine has been overheated. Yes the 4500 included installation. They said they would put a new one in for me at their cost for the engine and not charge for the labor for 3000. The engine never overheated like I know the term. The way I know the term "overheated" the radiator cap blows and steam comes out from under the hood, etc. He said they checked the thermostat and it's good. So I don't think a faulty gauge argument would hold. So is my warranty with Subaru? or the shop that I have been taking it to?

put a baseball card on a bike spoke and noise is similar.

I have been a reader on here for a while but don't post much, just search for what I need. I think I have a unique enough dilemma to post. I bought a 97 outback wagon with 94K. Drove it to about 120k or a few over, and idler broke, causing the timing belt to break. I wasn't aware of timing belt issues at that time and how important they are to replace, or when to replace, etc. Learned my lesson. I bought a new short block and had it installed ($4500). It came with a 2 year 24,000 mile warranty. They car has been driving very very well. Super strong engine, felt brand new. Last week coming home from work, I heard a weird clicking/knocking sound and took it in. I was told I have a rod knock and the only thing to do is to replace the engine. Since it's still under warranty, that seems like the logical solution. The local independent subaru repair shop, said they cannot get the warranty to go thru because the heat tabs that are placed on the new engine block have melted, indicating that the engine was overheated. They told me they don't know what to do, because the thermostat is good, the coolant looks good, the oil looked good, etc. Everything has been maintained. They'd really like to get it warrantied, but cannot get around the melted heat tab issue. I have no idea when it overheated. It has never failed/steam coming out of the hood at all. One time about 1.5 years ago I was driving up a steep hill and noticed the heat wasn't working. I pulled over, checked the coolant, there was none in the res, so I let the car sit there all day and cool down. The gauge was above the center but not yet to the H. I coasted back downhill because luckily there is an autopart store 2 miles (steep downhill) away. I watched the thermo the whole time and it never rose, as I wasn't using the gas. I added coolant and never had a problem again. Drove all over the place for 1.5 years after this incident. It's the only thing I can think of. Now, with the rod knock, the engine will soon fail. They are sympathetic and will put in a new one at no profit ($3K). I am a poor grad student and haven't even paid off the car yet (deferred loan). What do I do? The rest of the car is in great shape. Any buyers? Just looking for some consolation, or something.

Strakes I'm interested in how you lubricated the throwout bearing. I have a slight sqeak when I press my clutch half way. I have had this problem for a while and the mechanic says they lubricated the throwout bearing. It makes the noise go away every time. He never charges me to do it, I just want to know where it is so that I can do it myself. I had the throwout bearing replaced about 12k miles ago. This is the first time it's sqeaked since then. Could you, or anyone, please describe exactly what the throwout bearing looks like, where it is, and what to lube? 97 Leg OB Thanks much

Dealer wanted $39 to tighten one heat shield panel on mine. He kind of said it was near (or over) the "y" of the exhaust system. I was told the same trick, to bang on it with a hammer until I find one loose. Any hints at finding it? I haven't actually looked for it yet, but a general starting point would help me. 97 Leg outback. Thanks.

I have had this same phenomena. You have to find a little button attached to the end of a wire under the dash. Instructions can be found here: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html#code%20alarm

I was looking at my headlights today as I pulled right up to a wall. They are both straight and fairly dim. I can look directly into them without needing to squint (maybe that's why I can't see at night). They do get brighter as I click high beams but still don't seem all that bright. The thing is... both of them are exactly the same. Another thing is that I thought I could turn them on with the car off. There's the switch on the top of the steering column that allows me to leave the lights on if I wanted to, but even with this switched they won't come on unless my car is on (however there are some very dim orange parking lights that turn on). Is this normal? Any help is greatly appreciated.

Do they actually get dimmer with time, or do they just quit working? I have a 97 outback and noticed I can barely see the road at night. When I put on the high beams, it looks about normal and no one even flashes their lights at me. I can't tell if they are pointed the wrong way or just getting dim. If so all I need to replace is the lightbulbs ($12 each) correct? If you can't touch them, how do you install them? I can use lab gloves from work to make sure no finger oil get on them, is that enough? Thanks much Joey

Problem solved. It was a keyless entry security feature.. I don't even have keyless entry! I found the answer in an old thread and at http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html#code%20alarm

Hi I have the same sort of problem. However I have a 97 legacy outback and don't think I have keyless entry. At least when I bought the car, no one gave me the remote. I looked under there by the fuse box, but don't know what I'm, looking for. I don't see any obvious black button. What is the "control Module"? Thanks Joey

I have an interesting problem (1997 Subaru Legacy outback). My hazard lights are blinking slowly. They blink on for 1 sec, off for 1 sec and repeat that for 1 min. Then stop for 10 secs and begin again. Inside, the dash lights up (just the backlight for the speedometer and such) during each blink. I did a few things today like replace the radiator cap (90Kpa vs 88Kpa cap that I took off). Changed the air filter. Removed the battery terminal connectors and scraped off a little corrosion. I can still turn on the blinkers and hazards and turn signals and they flash at a faster rate. It runs just fine otherwise. It's gotta be some sort of code telling me something is wrong but I can't find it anywhere. Any help?

I have a 97 Subaru Outback and live in Colorado. I do a lot of driving up long annoying dirt/rocky roads and am looking for new tires. Previously I had the BF Goodrich Long Trail T/A and they look pretty worn. Also the side walls have many scrapes from big rocks and some have slow air leaks. Needless to say the car vibrates pretty hard at 70 mph. I am looking for opinions on new tires that would perform well for these situations. Good fuel efficiency is nice and snow traction is nice too. Discount Tire told me the best tire to put on my car is the Goodyear Assurance TripleTred for $453 with a $50 gas card. They also beat anyone else's price. He recommended not putting the BF Long Trails back on. Any suggestions. Thanks much Joey