RXTurbo

So what is the CFM rating of the Hitachi 28/32 the EA motors come with?

For anyone that is interested, I have just finished a set of drawers for my new wagon. The drawers will be to hold camping and recovery gear securely. I am also going to make a mesh cargo barrier so I can pack the rear section up to the roof. The other planned mods will be a 2 or 3" lift kit. Haven't decided yet... The biggest tyres that will fit, a swingaway rear wheel carrier with jerry can holder. I am also going to make up a stainless steel tank to go in the tool well in the back to hold fresh water. I figure I will get about 25L in there which will be plenty for a weekend away. Anyway, the drawer system is basically a 42mmX19mm pine frame, lined with 3mm mdf on the sides and 6mm ply on the top (for a bit more strength). Then covered in marine carpet. The drawers are 12mm mdf just screwed together with carpet on the front. The slides are steel with plastic rollers. Took me a couple of days to put it all together. Total cost was about $150aud or about $110usd. Here is a link to the pics, and a few other of my wagon - enjoy!! http://members.dodo.com.au/~benjamin_marsh/web/L/l.html

I was under the impression that a 32/36 was a 180cfm carb, which comes from the same carb but Holley branded is a Holley 180, and Holley's naming convention was to name them by their cfm rating?

The Nankang 830 is a 215/75/15 tyre in an AT/MT pattern so is fairly aggressive. I have driven a legacy with them on sand and they were awesome. Best of all they are only $144aud each, which is around $100usd each (if that is a lot for you then trust me, it isn't much here... 27" BFG AT's are $190aud, the other major 4wd tyres go from $200 on up!)

I am having a LOT of trouble finding someone here that wants to sell them to me, looks like I'll be getting Nankang 830's Thanks for the replies!

I can tell you for certain that the EA82 type caliper, will not, and cannot, bolt directly onto the EA81 steering knuckle, the bolt spacing is different. The hub however will fit onto the spindle together with the rotor, as the total rotor depth for the EA82 cars is shallower than the EA81 type. You can use the EA82 rotors and calipers providing you get an adaptor plate machined, but that would be expensive.

Haha, keep in mind they were on a 1982 Automatic EA81, It couldn't go fast enough to make comment on their highway suitability Nah, they were alright, not too squirmy, not too noisy. Wear was ok. The worse tyres I ever had on a car were a set of rally retreads, basically a retread tyre designed for doing rallycross etc - they were very soft and on the highway were very squirmy and noisy and all over the place - on dirt was a different story though - phenomenal grip!

Hi, does anyone over here have Kelly Wintermark tyres on their cars? I had these tyres on my old ea81 car in the 175/75/13 size, and they were pretty good offroad, but I was wondering if anyone had tried out the 205/75/14's they are 26.4" in diameter so fit under a 3" lifted EA82 car. Just wondering what sort of life you are getting and if they came close to the bigger brand M/T tyres. Thanks Ben

The EA82 rotors and calipers won't fit your car. You need to find the rotors and calipers from an 84 or later EA81 car as these had vented rotors.

I beat the studs out on my hubs and then put them on a mandrel I made. There is no change to face run out once mounted. I don't even want to start on how 'out of round' the hubs are from the factory!! It is not uncommon for a hub to be off centre by up to a tenth......

Don't do what The Scooby says to do, this will harden the steel around the studs making it brittle. The only way to stress relieve the hub after welding it up is to have the whole thing immersed in a furnace and uniformly heated and then cooled down in a long controlled matter this anneals the steel and makes it the same strength throughout. Problem here is that next time you drive the car the hardened drive shafts will chew the splines out of the hub. So you need to get the splines induction hardened, this is a concentrated heat applied using an electrical coil. This is then hardened by quenching. The rest of the hub is then again stress relieved. The only place that can do this for you is a professional heat treatment shop. No home use equipment is suitable for doing the above properly.

You can face off the back of the hub using a 1" end mill held in a drill press... well if you have a press big enough!!! Before I bought the mill I used to hold stuff in a tool post vice on the lathe and then hold the end mill in the 4 jaw chuck and take very light cuts...

You are partly correct in saying that technically it is an AWD trans. The set up is identical to the Legacy 4 speed. The MAJOR difference is that the 3 spd has a on/off switch to control the 4wd clutch, the 4 spd has a computer to control the 4wd clutch. Not sure how much you know about the autos, but basically they just use a shift solenoid on the 4wd actuator to actuate the clutch and drive the rear. The 3spd has a switch and so the clutch pack give full drive to the rear, and is a 50/50 split. the 4 spd has a computer that uses pulse width modulation to switch the solenoid. (Remember that a solenoid is either on or off and not inbetween, so a method is required to vary the amount the solenoid is actuated.) The Pulse Width Modulation uses a 12v 50hz (50 cycles per second) square wave to drive the solenoid. At 100% duty cycle the clutch is disengaged (works opposite to the 3spd where 12v engages the clutch) and at 0% duty cycle the clutch is engaged giving full 50/50 split to the rear. At any percentage of duty cycle in between a direct relationship is drawn to the rear split. At 50% duty cycle you have a 75/25 front rear drive split. The transmission ecu takes input from speed, throttle, gear selection and power/hold switch to decide on the level of split necessary. It is entirely possible to design a PWM circuit that will take the inputs above and drive the 4wd solenoid on the 3spd auto which will make it just as AWD as a 4spd Legacy. Sorry for the thread hijack!!!!

What?? All auto transmissions have clutch packs, thats what engages the gearsets. The 3 spd autos have a clutch pack in the back that engages drive to the rear wheels. It is an identical set up to the later awd 4 speeds, only they are on/off only not ecu controlled permanent. It is possible to hook up a system to make the 3spds constant 4wd (granted the system would be completely custom and so not really worth it) I have owned both an auto 3 speed ea81 touring wagon and an auto 3 speed coupe and both have had 3.9 rear diffs - but then, like I said - maybe the Australian market is different, after all our version of the Legacy RS got 3.9 rears whilst the rest of the world got 4.11.

The 2wd boxes have 3.63 or so on the front. The info posted is from the 92 FSM. However as far as I am aware all the 4wd boxes had 3.545 first gears

Your cars must be different as our autos definitely have 3.9 rears

Got no idea there - maybe I should have switched my brain on first!!!! The correct ratio for the rear though is def 3.9 do not put a 3.7 on there or you will destroy the rear clutch pack.

Cusco Japan make a front LSD to suit the Legacy box, it would fit the L series box too.

Not only is the rear diff a 3.9 but the front diff is a 3.7!!!

Source = 1992 Subaru FSM for L series (EA82) Gear then ratio then actual tooth count on cogs. 1st = 3.545 (39/11) 2nd = 2.111 (38/18) 3rd = 1.448 (42/29) 4th = 1.088 (37/34) 5th = 0.871 (34/39) REV = 3.416 (41/26/12) Regards

35/64's is the hole size. The back of the hub really should be counterbored or milled flat for the stud to seat on.

What is the shortest lift required to fit the tfer case mod?

Yeah, we get them - call them a Suzuki Sierra. We also get Daihatsu Rocky as well, those Sierra's have a bit of a cult following like the subes over here, cept it is a LOT easier to get a Sierra hardcore off road ready Will have to have a look into what they are worth over here...

Help me out here - Whats a Samurai? With a bit of luck we have the same truck in Australia, just called something else!

A recent 4wd magazine here in Oz had a story on the Niva's apparently the transfer case is in high demand over here for conversions as it is bullet proof. Great find for the price!! $40 cdn is about $40 australian, at that price i would buy it too!!