RXTurbo

Yeah that'd be fully hektic bro.... So only BS mods like plugs and earth leads hey? Knew I should have bought the XR6 I looked at...

I have a 03 H6 EZ30 Outback, it could do with more ponies.... Anyone here tackled that question yet? I did a search but nothing of interest came back...

there is now a skeleton ausubaru forum operating at http://70.85.249.34/~byb555/forum/index.php It will most likely be deleted in a few days when the backup arrives from ipaska, but is enough to keep in contact until then. If you register, you will receive an activation email that asks you to click a link - the link won't work, you need to replace the bit that says 'ausubaru.com' with '70.85.249.34/~byb555' and then the activation will work.

I have just been speaking with Brett and he has arranged a new host. The website www.thebackyardboys.com.au is currently resolving correctly and Brett hopes to have forums back up this evening. He still does not have the complete back up from ipaska yet but is waiting on it. www.ausubaru.com was actually registered by ipaska so there is some difficulty in getting it transferred to the new host.

All, with the Ipaska servers all turned off it has made it kinda hard to continue organisation of the Ausubaru 2005 BBQ, seeing as Ausubaru was sitting on an ipaska server!!! I don't have the details off the top of my head, but hoping the USMB community will allow us to continue this organising here in this thread, awaiting a new and revised Ausubaru!!! If you have the details please post below...

Hey, the sube key contains an RFID tag and is programmed to suit the immobiliser - I think the chances of replicating that are slim to none... I am going to get hold of an oscilloscope and try to measure the signal soonish...

I am putting a MY99 EJ20 from an Impreza into my 93 wagon, replacing the EA. I have the full impreza wiring harness and the whole engine and immobiliser bits are wired into the wagon. It refuses to start, I have concluded that the immobiliser is dead. Has anyone been successful in mapping the output waveform that the immobiliser sends to the ecu? Is it just a squarewave, or is their serial data attached? Need to find out so I can make a box to replicate the signal... Thanks all Ben

Steve at Rising Sun Automotive in Adelaide, Australia has an EG33 in a Legacy and is regularly used (I believe it is a daily driver) See http://www.ausubaru.com for Steve's contact details.

I have only paid about $90 australian for my MS, all I bought was the board with MCU, MAP etc, I had everything else already. Making an adaptor to fit the MPFI manifold to the SPFI heads is a bloody fantastic idea, makes a lot more sense to me to do that rather than fab a whole new manifold. A whole lot cheaper too!! I have PM'd you my MSN Messenger log in if you wish to discuss further - I am usually on the net most nights.

Yeah, I know Bowraville, just inland from Macksville. My sister in law lives at Nambucca. I have virtually the same car as you, a 1992 built 1993 L series DL wagon. It is a carby EA82. I have a lift kit and big tyres etc. I want a motor with greater low rpm torque, my aim is to have the factory peak torque coming in at around 1500rpm. I have no cares for RPM greater than 4500 so am not interested in peak power. My car is for 4wdriving, if it takes me longer to get to the destination then so be it. If you are interested I can make up a similar system for you as I will be using? Will be about 12 months away though. Have a look at some of the backyard metal casting websites, they will give you an idea of just how easy it is to make stuff from alloy. If you are good with a file and a drill press, you don't even need a milling machine!!! Best thing to do with the Megasquirt is to download the manual and read it, printing it first is best, it is about 130 pages.... This will give you a feel of just what is involved, it is no Microtech plug n play system... What are your plans for the car? Using throttle bodies over the head leaves a very short inlet, which is more suitable for peak power at around 8000rpm a longer, smaller diameter inlet decreases peak torque and so decreases peak power. What machine tools do you have access to?

Ausubaru92, From your sig you are an apprentice electrician, I assumed you actually knew something about electricty. Light output is not related to heat output. With incandescent lighting (normal resistance type) there is a lot of heat, brighter globes will increase the heat output. LED's emit virtually no heat for their brightness. Yes, LED's are expensive but they last a lot longer than incandescent globes and are a whole lot brighter.

Ausubaru92, take a look in this years Jaycar catalogue (just been released on the front of Silicon Chip mag), they have PCB's designed to take 2 or 3 bright white LED's using the end caps from a blown (intentionally) globe, this should solve you light brightness problems without increasing electrical load.

I will be fitting a megasquirt system to an EA82, I am at Tamworth not too far from you. I will be fabbing up a whole new inlet manifold from alloy castings and carbon fibre and running a separate coolant pipe EJ style with a EJ turbo style radiator swirl tank. Depends a lot on what injectors you have as to how they are mounted. Standard EA82 injectors (early bosch style) have two mounting screws, you will need either 4 holes, or 2 holes with bigger injectors though. I don't understand why you are fabbing a Map sensor as the megasquirt system has an onboard map sensor?? You can add a turbo further down the track if you like. Where on the Mid North Coast are you located?

I've never used a spring compressor on the back coilovers, usually one hand provides the pressure, other hand puts the first nut on. With HD springs you don't even need pressure...

You guys that are carrying on about patent and crap, you do of course realise that there is at least 5 manufacturers of lifts in Australia, all make 2" kits because we can't legally fit anything bigger than that, and they all pretty much look the same and use the same design to achieve the lift. Only main differences are the steering extensions. I like the look of the rear of the Allied kit and am considering changing my rear to that style. I have been looking at building a set of portal axle drives for the front to get cv angles and gear reduction back in check - I am happy to say this and share any ideas and concepts I have mostly because if I do and somebody copies it, I hope they extend my generosity and talk to me back about it. I know that no big aftermarket giant will pick it up because the market isn't large enough, so that isn't a worry. For anyone interested, I drive a 93 L series (EA82) wagon with a 2" body lift, 3" strut extensions and 1.5" spring lift. I also have BFG AT 27's on Scorpion rims. I have 16" clearance under the sills at the back, 13" under the rear crossmember lift blocks and 10" under the diff. I have taken the car on some crazy rutted tracks and have not had any clearance issues. I bought a scorpion steering extension because welded extensions are illegal in Australia and is the only part on the car that I didn't make (although I have the capability, I more bought it so I could copy it for future kits.) My current plans for offroad bits include a detroit/lockrite/powertrax style automatic rear difflock (currently making the tools/jigs to do this) and as mentioned above, the portals - These will be a 1.2:1 ratio drive and mount to the front, with a 3.7 diff in the front this will give the same drive ratio as having stock tyres, but with 27's and for the rear the fitment of a 4.44 diff will be necessary. We can't use 8" lifts with divorced tfer cases here, so we need to find other solutions to the subes problems. I congratulate the guys from Allied, people that look at our cars from a different perspective and think of solutions to our problems are welcome in my book. That additional diff clearance can be very handy, well done guys!

My car has had the inners slotted and eccentric bolts fitted to make it fully adjustable. Cost me a packet, I am not happy about that part but at least the cars fixed...

Just a couple of points to raise on this... Hope you are feeding the beast 100% pure water, not the crap that comes out of the tap because it is far from 100% pure water. People readily spew forth that 'hydrogen' power is 100% clean and has zero emissions, but it doesn't. When you electrolyse tap water you not only get hydrogen gas, but also chlorine gas, fluorine gas, amongst various solids. Unless you are burning the hydrogen in a completely closed state where ther system provides all the hydrogen and oxygen that is needed for combustion then you will not avoid nitrogen based oxides - these occur in the extreme temperatures of combustion where nitrogen gas (80% of air) is present with oxygen gas, these combine and form oxides of nitrogen. If you are burning the gasses produced from electrolysing tap water you will also be releasing oxides of chlorine, fluorine, sodium, calcium and carbon. Have a look at the chemistry involved, not just the hype. If you really want to investigate alternative fuels that actually can be produced yourself and cheaper than petrol then take a look at the increasing numbers of home distilleries. YES you can get a permit from the ATF that allows you to make denatured ethanol fuel for home use. You will need to do some leg work to get raw materials but you can get them free. A system that produces fuel from the energy it gains from burning the same fuel *is* perpetual motion and *is* impossible. There needs to be additional energy input into a system from elsewhere, continuously, to keep it running. I am not trying to rain on your parade here, but the more people that come to realise that the people pushing the sales of plans etc on the web are just crackpots, the better.

My shopvac is about 20 years old internal bag electrolux the best thing about it is that it is variable speed and can blow as well, which means I can melt a pound or so of aluminium in 15 minutes in my furnace.... When you do the steering extension, I bought mine from a lift kit place here, it is a 1" long block of steel, with a slit in it and a spline to match the shaft up the middle, two bolts clamp it down. If you are just going to make a longer shaft then make sure that it is a solid press fit before you weld it as that is safer than just welding it, also wouldn't be a bad idea to get it heat stress relieved before using it. Within 60 mi drive of where I live there is everything from sand, clay, shale, rocky outcrops, pine forests, rainforest, etc etc to drive on. Certainly makes for a lot of choices...

Here's another video - pity there isn't good detail on digital camera movie mode, there are rocks and steps on this track that would eat a unlifted car... Also went driving in mud holes that I wouldn't of before, its hard to get into the frame of mind that I now have more ground clearance than a hilux... This time my wife was in the passenger seat and took the video. 38sec and 1.7mb. http://members.dodo.com.au/~benjamin_marsh/liftkit/dump4wd.WMV

Here is the first offroading video, taken by me whilst driving with my little digital camera. Size is 1.9mb and goes for 40 or so seconds... http://members.dodo.com.au/~benjamin_marsh/liftkit/first4wd.WMV Enjoy

Hey, nice looking shop that, this is mine Not a particularly clean and tidy set up but it does the job. I am seriously considering building a new shed, 6x9m which will give me a lot more room to spread out. I'd love a sherline, I dabble in a little miniature engineering (currently working on a 4 cyl air cooled 4 stroke boxer from Strictly IC magazine) and would love a small lathe I can work on in my living room. I am working on a design for a small 2" swing lathe that I can use over winter to make valves and stuff

We wouldn't be men if it wasn't a pissing contest

135? is that all? We had 37 cars at the last BYB BBQ, and based on the fact that we have roughly 1/15th the population that you do, then you would have needed 555 cars show up to match us - hrmm, 555, wonder if there is any significance in that?

I bought all the steel for my kit from a local steel supplier not a hardware store. Not sure what the US is like for steel shops but we have at least one in every town. This town of 50,000 people I live in has maybe 6 steel merchants, some have several acres of yard all full of steel. The alloy I bought from the alloy shop in the nearest city (Newcastle) I actually cut all the lengths on a bandsaw including the round. I did however lathe the round sections to be the right length, I also drilled them on the lathe. The triangle shaped sections were cut using a slitting saw on the milling machine. From memory the 100mm tube cost me $9, they were cut to size, I just needed to square them on the lathe. I have taken some offroad pics already, and also a short video - only my ISP tells me I have 30mb of space but there is only 10mb available to me, once I get that sorted out I'll post it up! Oh yeah, it is nice having tools which enable me to build pretty much anything I can imagine, having the skills is a different story!! James, is that a Smithy 3-1 machine you have? I have one of the chinese 12x36 lathes and a RF31 milling machine, plus a vertex 6" rotary table and various other bits n pieces sure is fun makin stuff

No worries, there is a good wrecker in Christchurch that has a lot of subie stuff, they should be able to help you out.