Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

ClassySoob

Members
  • Posts

    180
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Posts posted by ClassySoob

  1. On 1/30/2019 at 7:49 PM, Subabro said:

    Nice one! Do you have any mod plans for it?

    Yes I have many plans for this car. She is far from finished. Maybe a lift, some lights, and more paint work. Possibly turbo charge.

  2. 5 hours ago, DC493 said:

    What an awesome car! congrats on the swap! Do you have a build thread for it? looking at doing my swap this year, just have no idea where to start! lol 

    Thanks. No I didn't do a build thread. I wish I had though. But there are a few EJ swap threads.

  3. 2 hours ago, DC493 said:

    Hello all! First of all i work 2 jobs and go to school constantly and looking through page after page on my phone in a rush is very tedious.

    so any links or guidance would be very appreciated.

    i currently have a 1993 loyale sedan ea82 5spd D/r 

     I have finally put all the pressure on myself to get my Ej swap done this year. Im just curious, where is a good place to look for an EJ22? How much would it cost me to rebuild if i found a high mileage one? 

    one other thing that Im not sure of is finding or making a wiring harness. 

    one last thing i am wondering is front axles and cross member, does anything need to be modded?

    other than that i plan on getting the adapter plate from ADF along with the 2 inch lift (possible 4 inch just need to look into steering shaft extension) 

    Any links to threads that will help me out will be greatly appreciated or hacks that you have while you did your EA82 To EJ22 Swap. 

    Thank you again, as being a student with two jobs is tedious....I have to complete this goal...TIA..

     

    Hey there I just did an EJ swap over the summer. I found my EJ 22 on Facebook for $300. You can look on marketplace, Craigslist etc. But its better to buy a whole donor car so you'll have everything on the EJ side that you'll need for the swap. You'll also need a Bell housing adapter, the EA82 flywheel redrilled for the EJ. http://www.sjrlift.com/ can provide those for you. There are a few threads on here for the swap, but I don't know the links.

  4. 4 minutes ago, idosubaru said:

    You’re not supposed to do that. If you have an owners manual read how to use the 4WD, if not maybe you can find one online here or eBay. 

    I do know how to use the 4wd. I have had this car for years and gone all over the mountains with it with no problem at all. But it's not operating as it normally does. That is why I am asking.

  5.  This is my 85 GL with the Dual Range 4wd. I first bought this car when I was 17 for $1100 from a guy in North Cali. She was in great shape, very minimal rust. But the we moved to Idaho, and she started rusting more. The car had some pretty good oil leaks, so I decided to pull the engine and reseal it for my senior project in highschool. She ran really well, until an unfortunate event. I hit a dear doing almost 60. Crushed the front end and pushed the engine through the radiator. We had to tow her home, But I wasn't gonna give up on the ol girl. So I found an old man I was able to trade a .22 for some parts off of a loyal he had. I got my parts and started to pull out, and straighten the body. I had to replace the hood, bumper, all the front lights, radiator, a/c condenser, and the water pump. The car was whole again, but the engine just didn't run the same. I kept driving, and eventually the old EA82 threw a rod, straight through the block... But STILL I did not give up, I looked at it as a opportunity to do the EJ22 swap that I had always wanted to do. That same day I found new EJ for $300. It took me the rest of the summer saving money and collecting parts to finish the swap. And I did. With the help of SJR I got the adapter parts. I had to completely redo the exhaust, installing 2 1/4" pipe, with a glasspack, and Thrush turbo. And yet that day, the birth of the Frank'n Soob.

     

    FB_IMG_1554741379557.jpg

    FB_IMG_1554741413738.jpg

    FB_IMG_1554741433473.jpg

    Snapchat-491546046.jpg

    Snapchat-1794722097.jpg

    • Like 1
  6. Hello all. I have a 85 GL with the dual range 4wd  I've noticed a problem with my rear differential. When I have it in 4 hi or low it feels tougher to move the car. And when I this moving, it wants to pull hard to the left. When I back up there is a lot of resistance. And difficulty disengaging the 4wd.

  7. On 12/1/2018 at 12:55 PM, GeneralDisorder said:

    No. Doesn't work that way. The low range isn't a separate part you can swap. It's actually done at the front of the input shaft before any of the 5 speed gearing. The single range case is not machined for the low range components. 

    You either rebuild the trans you have (very involved - will require some special and/or custom tools including a press, and may not be possible without parts transmissions due to poor availability of many components through Subaru), or you find a replacement dual range.

    GD

    Could I still swap the single range into the car ? It seems to be the only trans I can find for it near me. 

     

  8. 8 hours ago, DaveT said:

    Those spanner nuts are the adjustment of the preload on the bearings.  

    Theoretically you could unscrew one to look.  But you must mark it, and carefully count the turns.   And if you don't get it back exactly, the mesh adjustment will be off.  That would be bad for the life of the gears and or bearings.  The fsm has the details of what to do when assembling the diff into the housing.  It does not sound like fun.

    So would I be better of installing another trany(if that's the issue)? A scrap yard near me has a 5speed manual single range 4wd from an 89 for $250. Would it be possible to swap my dual range onto it? 

  9. 37 minutes ago, DaveT said:

    If you turn those, you have to re set the ring and pinion gear mesh...

     

    I don't plan to unmesh any of the gears. Just pull of those nuts and see if I can pull the bearings from there without tearing down the trany. Looking at the diagram leads me to believe that it might be possible. Unless it's not, I'm not that experienced with transmissions. Most I've done with them is change the fluid, filter and stuff like that. 

  10. 17 minutes ago, idosubaru said:

    did you try to check for play in the front diff when you pulled the axles?
    drain the oil and look for metal
    pull the axles and see what the stubby shafts look like. 

    i think i'm struggling to understand the symptoms.  some people blow up small things to sound big and some are pretty even and some have a big issue but don't describe it well.

    part of your description makes me think brakes/suspension. 

    another part makes me think diff. 

    I know, it is hard describe what's going on how I am experiencing it, and putting it in a way that y'all will understand. I had les Schwab do my front axles, but I want to pull them off and inspect the splines. See how much they move. I grabbed the inner axle and shock it, and they we're sloppy. So I might get a better idea once I pull the axles and inspect that. Does the diff and trany share the same oil, or do they have separate oils? 

  11. 3 hours ago, 1 Lucky Texan said:

    were they the same brand and model? they can fit the same size rims and be the same profile - but still be different CIRCUMFERENCE. Even if one pair is bald and the othe rpair has 3/4 of their tread might be enough to cause an issue.

    any grabbing or binding/jerking during tight circles on dry pavement?

     

     

    They are all Toyo Eclipse tires. Relatively the same diameter, just the 175s are not the as wide as the 185s. The fronts we're put on a couple months ago, haven't really drove it, so they are still pretty much brand new. The rears are about a year old, but still have about 90% of tread. None are warped, no knots or anything like that. 

  12. 3 hours ago, idosubaru said:

    pads aren't the concern - specifically check the pins, pad clips, and emergency brake mechanism.  one of those is corrupting pad movement.  they'll hang in a general "range" of movement sometimes making them hard to diagnose and having intermitten or condition/speed related symptoms, until the pad starts to wear at an angle and symptoms escalate. 

    clean each pin, regrease with high quality grease (not generic permatex). 

    pad clips can get bent, rusty, or corroded/built up and cause pad movement issues as well.

    emergency brake can stick at the hub.  

    or it's suspension related - a ball joint/bushing is moving under load. 

    Can you tell which corner it's coming from - you should have a vague idea where it's coming from if it's an audible noise.  if not - have someone stand outside the vehicle and listen or change seat positions to listen from inside.

    To be honest it's hard to pinpoint what side it is coming from when I'm driving. Sometimes it's seems like the right side, then the left, or even right in the middle. There is no binding when taking it in circles. But i don't really go fast enough to produce the sound. Doing cookies doesn't work that well in a fwd haha. 

  13. 8 minutes ago, 1 Lucky Texan said:

    were the tires you replaced IDENTICAL to the rear tires?

    pretty sure even in '85 you need 4 identical tires. Try swapping ONE front tire to the rear , open diffs might let that work.

    just wondering if you have torque bind.

    Before they we're all 185/70/r13s and still had the same noise. But the tire shop accidently put 175s on the front nothing changed. I do have a dent in the lip on one of my front rims, but I've had that for a while now, long before this problem came about. 

  14. 19 minutes ago, GeneralDisorder said:

    Put it on a lift, drive it with the brakes loaded up, listen to components with a stethoscope. This isn't rocket science - you just need a better mechanic. 

    GD

    I've had it on the lift twice, and ran it. But there was no noise. So it has to do with the weight of the vehicle. Was told it could possibly be my rear diff. But there is no change when engaging the 4wd. I even took out the rear axles so the diff was not moving and drove it, still no change. 

  15. 8 minutes ago, 1 Lucky Texan said:

    swap tire pairs front to back ???

    I know next to nothing about an 85, just hoping to mention something worth a second look.

    tires all the same? If the car is stone cold, is the problem the same or better?

    The problem is the same whether cold or warm. I just had two new tires put on it the front. They are 175s while my rear are 185s. But the noise was there before the tire change, when all the tires we're 185s. I haven't tried rotation of the tires, but I guess it wouldn't hurt. Nothing ventured, nothing gained I guess.

  16. 48 minutes ago, DaveT said:

    Most of this points to axle / wheel bearing / brake problems.  Very different than the pinion shaft bearings above.  I have not had any other major transmission bearing failures.

    That's what I thought as well. But I've replace axles, wheel bearings, brake pads, (pads where pretty messed up, but that didn't fix the problem) calipers and rotors seemed in pretty good order. Ive also replaced the ball joints, which one was striped and the nut coming off, but that didn't fix the noise either. I removed my rear axles, nothing. The rear wheel bearings are tight. I'm certain its from the front. Not engine related as I can rev engine all day long with no noise from it. Only occurs when the car is moving. All gears and in neutral coasting. That's why I am suggesting bearings in the differential, not so much as the whole transmission. I'm udderly stumped on this. 

    12 hours ago, DaveT said:

     

  17. 10 hours ago, DaveT said:

    If it is about 2 times per wheel revolution,  it could be the pinion shaft bearings are shot, and the pinion moves forward until it hits the differential carrier.  On a 3AT, it does this on engine braking, but will seem normal with acceleration. 

    It's hard to describe how I hear it. But it almost sounds like a hard rubbing. It starts around 15MPH and the sound increases the more my speed increases. When I hit my brakes the steering wheel shutters. When I turn hard left it gets worse, turning right lessens the noise to the point it almost disappears. No mechanics can tell me what exactly it is, so I'm using trial and error replacing parts in hope it will fix. But i don't know what else to look for besides trany related. 

  18. 1 hour ago, GeneralDisorder said:

    What lead to this conclusion?

    And yes it's essentially a full tear down/rebuild. 

    GD

    I have something bumping real hard in my front when I drive. I've replaced axles, wheel bearings, ball joints, brakes, but nothing has changed. The inner drive splines have a bit of play, leading me to believe it's the spline bearings. But I'd there is something else it could be, I would be delighted to hear. 

  19. 8 hours ago, el_freddo said:

    You’ll need custom:

    - Prop shaft

    - Gear selector linkages 

    - Gearbox crossmember or an XT6 one may do the job, I’m not 100% on that though...

    The AWD with ej22 is well worth the effort. If running 27 inch tyres get a box from a forester as this will match the diff ratio to the tyre size ;)

    I’m running a bitza box -  phase 2 EJ dual range front cases, L series 1.59:1 low range with auxiliary oil feeders, SG drive and reverse gears, L series centre locking diff and matching rear housing, custom pinion shaft for 4.111:1 diff ratio (wish I had 4.44) and a 27 tooth speedo drive gear to pull my speedo back to proper accurate :D

    And I’m running 27 inch tyres with the EJ22 ;)

    Cheers 

    Bennie

    Sounds like quite a task. But can be done. What would you say it cost you to do it? 

×
×
  • Create New...