ClassySoob
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Posts posted by ClassySoob
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OK thank you. I'm trying to pull the harness for my EJ swap.
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Pulling out the dash on a 96 Subaru outback. I have pulled the center console, instrument panel, glove box, and all those goodies. Undid the bolts on the side by the doors, two by the windshield, and the ones under. It wiggles but it seems something is stopping it from coming out on the passanger side. My question is do you have to remove the passenger air bag? If so how? Or is there just a bolt or two that I can't seem to find? Thanks
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Does anyone have a 2.2 bulk wire harness from a 97 legacy that they might be willing to let go off? I bought just a EJ22 engine and not a whole donor car. I have the engine harness and ecu, just need the wiring to run the engine and other necessaries for the EJ swap. I looked online and can't find one, called all the salvage yards in my area and all they have are 2.5s. Very close to having the ol GL done, but can't do Jack without the wiring.
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9 hours ago, el_freddo said:
Yeah what Scott said.
If going an ej25 harness, why not run an ej25?
Cheers
Bennie
I have the 2.2 engine and it's harness. But I need the rest of the wiring. Computer to engine. I found a 2.5 wiring. Will that work, or is it different?
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Thank you. So will I need to swap out all the wiring with my 85? Would a harness form a 2.5 work?
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And also what type of fuel pump should I use? To run injection.
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I'm in the middle of an EJ22 swap with my 85 GL. I managed to pick up an engine, but did not get the whole donor car. I would like to know what wiring harness is needed for the swapped engine to run. Just from the ECU to the necessary engine components? Any help would be great!!! Thanks.
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I have one of my old EA82.
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Thanks the advice. I need to get a donor car for parts. Only bought the Ej. Or find a harness and ecu on line.
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With the ea82/ej22 swap, what part of the EJ wiring harness do I need? Just the engine harness, or the harness from the whole car?
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The AT plugs in the engine bay or the TCU are unplugged or the TCU is unpowered or failed (which is quite rare).
You'll also have "locked" 4WD, drive it in circles on dry pavement and it'll feel like it's braking as well.
If you do replace the trans I'd pull the entire lump and drop an EJ22 in at the same time and move away from the EJ25 while the opportunity presents itself.
Where are these connects located. I'll give em a look. I'm just driving this for now while I do the EJ22 swap on my 85 GL, so don't really want to dump money into it. Just seeing if it might be something stupid and simple. If not I'll just drive it like it is until I get the 85 done.
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I picked up a 96'Legacy out back with the EJ25 for $200. The trans seems to not shift from third, up or down. On drive it starts of I third and stays, no overdrive or other gears. Reverse works fine, a lil jumpy when you shift into it. Shifting to first alone the car won't hardly move it all as if the brakes are locked up. I changed the fluid and filter but nothing changed. Inspected the solenoid, seemed to be fine. Any you know what's going on or had this problem?
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I picked up just the EJ engine but don't have the car. It didnt come with any wires or cables. Do I have to use an EJ throttle cable or can I use the original from the EA. And what kind of radiator mods needs to be done? How much did it cost you to do it all?Engine mounts: Hammer the little bump flat at the outer edge of the engine crossmember's mount point and file the engine mount holes outwards. I can't remember how far as I did this about 8 years ago. A set of wedges are good for keeping the engine mounts sitting flat.
Wiring is a big one for many. Get this right and you're sorted. If you can bench test the engine and your wiring and all goes well you know you've completed one of the hard parts!
If you've got power steering the EJ stuff will bolt right up at the hoses on the engine crossmember.
I used the EJ throttle cable and had to modify the hole in the firewall to accept the EJ cable.
Otherwise once the wiring is in it's "just" hooking up the required wires for ignition, vehicle speed sensor (if you want), permanent power, backup permanent power (from memory. Some ppl tie these two in together IIRC). I also used the EJ starter wire for the starter trigger - the EJ ECU references this wire to richen the mixture or something to help with cold starting.
Keep your EA engine loom and use the coolant temp wire and oil pressure switch wire on the EJ - saves messing with a few more wires.
Radiator mods or a replacement radiator will be required. I've heard of ppl using the BRZ radiator - but you'll need a filler neck either added to the radiator or have a remote one fitted into the top rad hose. I've used an N13 pulsar radiator, slid to one side to clear the cam cover with the lower outlet. Works alright if I'm not doing steep slow climbs or driving in +35*C heat
Also, while you've got the EJ on the floor, a good idea is to mark an spot to place the EA temp sender on the coolant crossover pipe. Remove the intake manifold and the coolant crossover pipe, have someone weld in a small plate where you've marked for the EA temp sensor. Drill and tap the hole to the appropriate size/thread. This will have your factor temp gauge behave the same as always. This is one thing I wish I did with my conversion. The EJ sensor reads low on the EA instrument cluster.
Cheers
Bennie
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Last week my 85 gl threw a rod. So now it's time for a new engine. I thought I might as well go ahead and do the EJ22 swap. I already have the engine out of a 97 Legacy. Anyone who has done this can you share some insight. I remember reading a post about the walk through of the swap awhile back, but I can't seem to find it now. I know I need the flywheel redrilled and a bell house adapter. What else am I going to need? Any mod to the stock engine mounts or will it line up. All the help you guys can share would be awesome.
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I figured it out, the feul pump was working fine.looked under the dash and found a disconnected wire that went to the injectors.started right up.
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Oh and it has the 2.4L Z24i engine with electro injection
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So I have this 87 Nissan hard body that sat through winter. Before it ran just fine, now not so much. When I first tried to mess with it, it wouldn't start up at all with out the help of starter fluid. After a bit of playing with it and spray in carb cleaner through some of the hoses sand jets, it start up, idle smooth for a couple seconds then dies out. When I try to give it gas, it'll kill it faster. It'll run while spraying fluid into the carb, but wont on its own. Anyone know what's up, or how to fix it?
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Hitachi carburetor 2 barrel
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Depends. What induction system are you running?
GD
Natural
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What would be the proper adjustment on the fuel/air mix?5-10 MPG probably indicates problems with rich mixture or timing. It should not be that much different.
GD
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We need some data to help you. Vacuum test is the easiest to do and can reveal a problem in a number of possible areas, or point to best subsequent testing.
Ok ill do a vacuum test next time I'm in the shop, see what it shows.
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The pistons we're pretty tight when they went back in.
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I kept the old pistons, because they were like new (.002" worn), still had hatching.
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It's like a 5-10 mpg differenceHow much less? Variations could be from driving / location / route changes
How long have you monitored ? Variations could be from fuel itself
Rebuilds in general should make things better
Run a vacuum test on your engine and see if there are any issues to be considered.
Ej swap alternator
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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For the ej swap, do I need the ej harness for the alternator, or can I just wiring it using the existing wires from the EA.