wintersubaru
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Posts posted by wintersubaru
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I have an 86 4x4 d/r wagon and even after a lot of front end work it still shakes. THIS IS MY LAST POST AS I KNOW I WILL BE BANNED AFTER. THIS SIGHT IS RUN BY A BUNCH OF NAZI BASTARDS THAT VIOLATE YOUR RIGHTS TO FREEDOM OF SPEECH, RELIGON AND PROBALY A FEW OTHERS. I REALISE THIS IS A SUBE SIGHT BUT SEE NOTHING WRONG WITH A PERSON HAVING STUFF ABOUT GOD IN THERE SIGNITURE. SO TO ALL THE PEOPLE THAT RUN THIS SIGHT. BITE MY AMERICAN rump roast. YOU R COMMUNIST NAZI ASSES!!!!!!! AND TO PROVE YOU ARE NAZIS JUST WAIT TO SEE HOW LONG IT TAKES TO DELETE THIS POST.
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Welcome!
yes the switch could be your problem. Goto junk yard and pull one and see if that fixes it. Had it happen on a sube except it was brake light switch That had an internal short that was melting fuse block. -
Lets not forget the steal in an Ea car is thicker then EJ. My 90 legacy i can push the fenders in by hand. My 86 wagon you can not!and the older Eas r thicker yet. So if the fenders r thicker that must meen that subframe is thicker. thous tougher car.
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WoooHoooo!!!! Another sube back on the road! Hows it go down the road? Do you have better power? good luck with the reseal on thermostat. Dont be afraid to use a little sillycone. I like the copper stuff myself.Ok all i got it running. Seems to run really good actually. I had to reseal the thermostat housing and still might end up doing it again..not sure if its leaking or not cause it leaked so much the first time. Oh well. Thanks for all your help guys.
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Glad i could help! you will notice a big diff in it. I know because last year i had to switch to a carter weber from a ea81 because i couldnt afford an Ea82 carb at the time so i got the ea81 intake and all off a car that was sitting in the back of the repair shop i worked at. It sucked but at least it kept the car on the road. 2 months later got a used ea82 carb (hicrappy) and put it on ran good for long time and does now but it likes to mess up when ever it feels like it so im allmost ready to put my free rebuilt holley weber. Got it mounted to intake just need warm day to put it on.Hey thanks wintersubaru. I took your advise and soaked the hell out of the bolt on the head. I tried to get it free a few times last night to no avail but this morning i went out there and put a set of vise grips on it tight and hit the vise grips with a hammer and it broke free. Got the entire intake out of the car now. I even got one of the intake gaskets stuck to the manifold so one less i have to scrap off the head. The rest of my work today involved sorting out the vacuum mess under the hood. The vacuum lines are very similar when you sit down and look at them next to eachother (that is the carter weber lines compared to the hitachi). I already have the vacuum lines all squared away..just a matter of waiting for my secondary diaphragm to come in from NAPA to put everything back together. Thanks again. Ill post some picks up when i get a chance.
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When i had a warped flange i put two gaskets on that side and used hi temp copper silicone never leaked again. Allso used hi temp silicone on a volvo exhust manifold and that had no gasket and it never leaked. As long as its under compresion it wont leak.
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Make sure you prep it right. My boss spent 2500$ on his plumbing truck and you can tell the spots they didnt prep right in the tool compartments because it didnt hold up but for a month.
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Don't know if this will help but one time i had an old buick and got stuck in the snow at an extream grade tried to power my way out and cooked some bearings because of lack of oil to pump. One twisted around so i dropped the pan put new one in and it ran again but had nasty knock. Hope this didnt happen to you.
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I can help with the EGR pipe but not the device. For the EGR, soak the heck out of it overnight and try to remove it from the head with a line wrench allso soak the bolts that hold it to intake incase it won't come out of the head. When i did mine i snaped a bolt on the intake and found it easer to get it out of the head. Since i don't have emissions i put a plate over the intake side and pluged the hole in the head with a threaded plug. But if you have emissions i wouldnt do that.Ok got some time to work on it yesterday. I have all the bolts for the intake out and everything that needs to be unplugged, unplugged. There are only two things keeping me from taking it out. The Steel EGR pipe with the fitting going into the block is still connected and the steel pipe that hooks to the coolant hose coming out of the firewall is still hooked. Am i going to have problems with the EGR pipe fitting being seized with time? Im not really worried about getting the hose off the coolant pipe its just being a PITA and i was tired by the time i got to it and decided to call it a night.Also there is another electrical device that i found while taking stuff apart. It mounts on the drivers side intake bolt and has two vacuum lines coming out of the bottom of it. Its about an one inch by one inch barrel shaped thing. Is this important? If so im going to have to figure out where to hook those vacuum lines when i finish converting to hitachi. Thanks everyones for your help this far.
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Did you put in new bulbs? I had that happen with an old bulb because the contacks in the socket were rusty and allso the contacks on the bulb were worn from being old. replaced with new cleaned socket and it never happened again.
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What about water injection i have read that it on hills helps to. Im not complaneing about the speed i can get up a hill but the faster you can get to the top the better i think. I think the sube i have now is better then any other that has carb that i have ever drivin.Ive tested other 86 gl wagons and they were dogs compared to this one. This one i never even put a timing light on it just did it by eye and ear so i must be close if it runs this good. Does anyone on this board run a holley weber 5200. I got one free that was a rebuild at the factory but i am waiting for spring to put it on because my hicrappy is running good for now. Does the holly weber perform as well as weber 32/36?
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i have stock muffler would a better flow increase what i have?you can do that because you dont a hav any cats, so your exhuast flows more freely. sounds better than my car when it had the EA82. -
If you don"t mind changing them once a year the discount stores r ok because they give ya life time warrenty. Better off with oem. Altough i have the adjustable front and rear struts and have had them adjusted to max liftfor two years and the one axle i put in is just starting to make noise. So not to bad for 60 bucks.Are you sure its your joints clicking? sometimes when my axle nut lossens up it will click like that to.
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I live in Nesquehoning between jim thorpe and tamaqua wich is like 250 miles from you. Even if some one turns in front of me at the bottom of the hill i can still get it back up to 60 in about half a mile.Hey just noticed you are in PA where you at? I can climb some decent grades at about the same rates you just described as long as I am moving. If someone stops to turn at the bottom I can never get it up to 4th. I have 2inch lift and 26.5" tires too
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Wouldnt nos destroy a stock engine?You need NOS to do it right. -
Need some opinions. Do you think this is good? I can go up a 8% Grade that is three miles long ( goes from 25 to 55 at bottom of hill)starting in third gear and shifting to forth gear at 5.500 then dropping to 3000 rpms at 60 mph with out loosing any speed. Stock except for after market 14 inch x 2 inch round crome air cleaner and spark plugs from an 98 outback wagon ( they were free new) Ea 82 carbed no cat no emissions with 103.000 miles on it. 5 speed D/R
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Don"t forget to look for a pinched vacuum line! had it happen to me when i de emissioned my car vacuum line got pinched under spare tire and my heater controls wouldnt work. If you dont hear any hissing then you could have pnched a line under the dash. Run your engine turn it off then push one of the heater control buutons and see if you hear a swish. If not you have bad vacuum line.
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Dont know if this will help but mine is hooked to a port above the throttle plates.Thanks Wintersubaru but i think i understand where to hook up the dis advance. The only problem im having is that i have a vacuum hookup coming out of my secondary diaphragm and i dont know where to hook that up. I would think it would be ok to just hook to the same source of vacuum as my choke pulloff but im not sure on that. -
I dont know a lot about carbs but i am pretty sure you have to have the vacuum for disty advance above the throttle plates so its not pulling all the time. I tried hooking mine up to intake like you said but my car ran like crap. I didn't know at the time it was my problem i thought it was a bad carb because it would run ok if i wired the choke closed a little. Thats when i did some research and found out it can not be a constant pull. So i hooked it up like the diagram in this post says and my car ran great. That carb should have a vacuum port above the throttle plates some where. If i knew how to make pics smaller i have some from my hitachi and i could show you where i have mine. pm me with an email adress and i will send them to you.No prob wintersubaru. Anyone else know where to hook up the vacuum line for the secondary? Can i just hook it up to a vacuum source on the intake manifold...maybe the same one as the choke pull off? -
The year diff means our carbs r different. Sorry i couldnt be more help.Ever think of getting a weber? I got lucky and someone gave me a re built holley weber 5200, Had to make my own linkage because it opens the other way then my hitachi but im sure it will work got adapter plate today so when the weather breaks i will put it on and start tuning. good thing is i have a extra intake so i can get everything bolted down on the bench.(A.K.A kitchen table). Anyone else hear run the holley weber? If so how does it performwell took some more close looks at the carb today. The line that i thought was for the vacuum secondary def is. If i open the vacuum secondary and hold my face near the vacuum port i get a blast of air coming out. Only problem is i would think if i opened the secondary and held my finger over the port that the secondary would stay open but it doesnt. Is something wrong here or does it just need more vacuum than a finger over the hole to keep the secondary open? I dont want to put this thing on and find that i only have a single barrel carb again. And Wintersubaru, 75subie sold me the carb and i was told its off an 82 or 83 EA81. Its been rebuilt and has something like 5000 on it. -
What year car did the carb come from? i have an 86 ea82 and allso have looked at other years and they all have that port. If not try one of those other two. You will know if it works if when you step on the gas every thing revs up right. If not it will hesate real bad untill you get the rpms up. Would help if you had a pic of your carb.I believe mine is an earlier carb than yours wintersubaru. I only have 2 vacuum lines on the front of my carb. I do remember having something like 3 or 4 on my 86 EA81 carb though. -
If you look under the choke on the front of the carb there is a vacumm port there. I run mine with three lines, one to disty one for heat and one for brake booster. The one i have hooked to the disty is a port that dose not get vacuum untill the primary opens thus pulling open disty advance. I have been running like that for a year now and every thing works fine. The one i use is just above the idle screw.
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Number 2 allmost sounds like someone put in a water injection system, but with out pics who knows
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Sometimes you can get lucky and get a good engine for under 100 bucks look for cars in peoples yards that have sat for awhile. I got an Ea82 with 98.000 on it for 150$ pulled.
shaking up front
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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