littlemamma

worked on a friend of mine subi in north idaho the other day to fix his brakes that locked up on him, found out it was the hill holder valve ad the cable was all out of adjustment got that fixed along with a new front passenger side caliper now it all works but he has to pump it twice to get it to stop so i bleed the system kitty corner like the book says no more air but the brakes are near the bottom so he is going to check the rear brakes in the morning told him maybe need new drums and rotors as they are the originals and they have been locked up and gotten very hot but due to money costraints he has to put it off. its a nice car for 250 bucks starts up ad runs nice just has brake problems.

is it an electric fuel pump? maybe to much fuel pressure or the float is stuck.

i think i will get a good used one at pull and save.

it was the hill holder valve it would come on but not release unless i did it by hand so i went to pull and save and got a used one because no one else had a new one. they also don't sell the cable and the old one was way out of adjustment. i could take the old valve and barely turn it by hand the new one works much better now i think he needs rotors and drums the old ones were original and the front one was locked up a few times. now it doesn't lock up b ut i have to pump it twice before it stops,not acceptable.

i will try pull and save payday just wondering what size socket to bring to take axle nut off.

the gas milage sucked worse than usual until i looked under my subi and noticed the fuel pump leakes when the engine was running. it leaked right at the end of the pump and new ones were too expensive so i went to the wrecking yard and bought three cheap hooked it up and applied 12v to the positive wire and grounded out the other and it worked no leaks. now if i can get the rest to work(ac controls etc).

i went to replace the bearings on my drivers side hub because i found out i cannot tow a subi without axles in it (news Flash). when i went to take the bolt off the hub that holds the ball joint in it broke. i managed to get the remains out by drilling a little bigger hole and while i was at it i changed the ball joint,they are cheap, but when i went to put the boot on it tore. should i replace the whole ball joint again or can i replace the boot. i am already thinking of replacing the hub with a good used on. that whole area got red hot enough to melt the brake hose. i got new bearings and seals and i ordered a new brake line. calipers (loaded ) and rotors are next.

would this work for an 88 with spfi? mine is a cobbled up mess,to many mechanics working on it.

mine are missing (this was before o got married) and the axles are missing as well i bought a axle from a store i cannot remember but the kid told me they are all the same,there not turbo is bigger on the tranny end. are there any good aftermarket axles out there or should i godd original equipment?

the brake hose was 19 dollars at autozone it will be in tuesday.

yes i release the bleeder screw and it unlocks(the wheel will turn) so it is off to the parts store again. thanks i will keep you people updated to the outcome.

i got the car for 100 dollars because the 14 yr old son got mad at mom for selling the car. had to fix the wiring inside and try to get the extra paint off the car haven't got it running yet but i saw one running the other day and it was a thing of beauty. are the aftermarket drivelines any good or should i go original equip? i bought a drive line for a nonturbo car but they gave me one for a turbo and the drive end it to big to fit on my transmission and i lost the recipt so no retuns.

i tried to sign up earlier but my computer put the wrong e-mail address so here i am in all my glory. hopfully i can get my station wagon moving again . i got the bearings and seals for the front end,just need drivelines and brake parts(found out i can't tow without drivelines.

i am working on a 91 loyale and the front brakes on the passenger side locks up . so i put a new loaded caliper on and it worked for a while about 1 mile then it started locking up again could it be a defective caliper or a master cylinder. i haven't had any complaints about the other wheels so i am leaning towards the caliper. the caliper was bought at fredrated car parts in newport and i think it was rebuilt not new.