seanliu

Thank everyone who responded to my plead. Now I have managed to slide the axle onto the spline of the transmission. I found out there seemed to be a VERY small gap between the end of the inboard end of the axle and the transmission. I tried to push axle more to close the gap and I failed. The holes seem to line up (I used a small screwdriver with Philip head to probe the holes). However, I had hard time to hammer in the spring pin. Am I too cautious or is there something not right? seanliu

The size of splines seems OK since I need to replace both front axle shafts, so I have one new axle lying there and an old one also. Does steering wheel oritentation have anything to do with the difficulty I am experiencing? I noticed that the steering is not straight up. Also, I installed the outer end of the axle first (based on the instructions from Subaru), does that contribute to the problem I have? Thank you. seanliu

Help!!! I am replacing front axles with re-manufactured ones on both sides. I have searched the USMB before I plunged into changing my own front driveshaft. I am working on axle on the passenger side now. I have so far removed the CV axle from the 98 Forester with unexpected ease. My problem is now with the installation of the new re-manufactured front axle assembly. I followed the instructions from Subaru Factory Service Manual and End Wrench (basically same instructions) by first inserting the spline into the hub and hand tightened it according to the instructions and I have a very difficult time to push the inboard section of the axle onto the transmission spline after aligning the hole (I believe I considered how holes were drilled - between the splines and at the spline). Why I cannot push the axle onto the transmission spline? Everyone I knew from the board here didn't seem to encounter this kind of problem. Any suggestions? By the way, I detached the stabilizer link from the lower control arm and the lower control arm from the hub by prying ball joint out of the clamp that connects the lower control arm to the hub.

You need to separate the ball joint from the hub before you pull the axle from the hub, right? Also, the Sunaru factory service manual also calls for removal of stabilzer link to the lower controll arm in addition to the ball joint separation from the hub. Is this step unnecessary for a Forester? I found that separation of the ball joint from the hub was difficult without demaging the ball joint boot.

I think The Dude is correct. The car parking there overnight will de-pressurize the fuel system and you need to turn the key and stop a few seconds before you turn the motor on. Now if the car has the similar problem you descirbed when you park outside for very short time (like parking lot in a supermaket) then you have some other problems related to fuel pump.

In my case, it was the resistor 300 fell off on one end.

It is an easy job. Just pop up the thing with a small screwdriver at near four corners. Re-soldering needs a little patience and a steady hand.

See if any electrical wire touch the engine or exhaust pipe or any thing hot. The O2 sensor wire is very close to the exhaust. Also check spark plug wires. The common cause of this type is either a oil seal leaking or axle boot spewing grease onto the exhaust.

I have a 1998 Forester too. I use the repair manual from Subaru website (pdf files) and Hayes' 1998 Legacy repair manual as a substitute - they are very similar in many ways (brakes, engine, transmission, suspension, etc.). You can also find CDROMs with Mitchell Repair manual for $35 or less (search Ebay). Good luck!

I saw a tool from thetoolwarehouse.net for holding the cam sprocket, costing $27.00. i am not sure if it works on subaru.