GreaseMonkey03

Sounds like you need to make good friends with people that have tools. Shouldn't cost you more than a few beers. Lol

That would depend on where in the lines it's freezing I suppose. The fuel in the fuel rails wouldn't freeze because of the volume of fuel that's in there. Enough to run the car for a few seconds before it runs out. it would be difficult to determine exactly where it's freezing but I would assume it's probably somewhere under the car closest to the ground. If that's the issue. If you use some dry gas in your tank and the problem goes away then you know thats the cause of the stalling.

Welcome home btw. Your service is appreciated. I was infantry myself. I miss those days.

With the car off pump the brakes. If the peddle goes to the floor, pump a few more times and then look for a puddle under the car. What's the condition of your brake pads? If the fluid ran low due to worn pads it's possible it sucked in air but that's less likely. You could also have a stuck caliper slide pin or a bad caliper. Take each wheel off and compress each caliper. The usual symptom for a stuck slide pin is having to pump it once before it grabs. Both the slide pins and the Pistons should go back pretty easily. If the caliper starts to compress but is compressing crooked, that slide is stuck. On subarus, the rear lower slides like to get stuck a lot.

Totally forgot about that stupid Subaru trait after a battery change. As lucky said, lock and unlock the car a few times with the key fob and then drive it around for a bit. They run weird for a bit after a battery change. But it should still crank so for sure check the terminals. I'm not sure if you meant it wasn't cranking or cranking and not starting.

Are your headlights lenses clean? I don't know if they have adjustments or not but make sure they are aimed correctly too. Those super whites are pretty bright but useless if the lenses are not pointing in the right direction or if the lenses are foggy.

Just to be safe, you can turn the car on with the ps belt off and if the noise is gone then you know for sure what the issue is. You could have it rebuilt if there's someone local but I would just replace.

Make sure the connections to the battery are tight. If it's not cranking with a new battery in it that could be the issue.

Uhaul trailer would probably be your best bet.

Is this happening only while driving? Does it happen when the car is in park either idling or with the revs up? Is there a check engine light? If there's no check engine light and it only happens when you're driving then most likely it's a mechanical issue of some sort. Tie rod, ball joint, bushing, mount, etc. could also be a tire balance issue or a damaged tread. Too many things to mention honestly. If it does when the car isn't driving, check your OBD. But more info on when or how it happens would help.

Just keep having someone prime the pump to try and spot it. Worst case follow your nose if you can't spot it. Check by the fuel filter too.

Most likely the valve cover gaskets. Subarus don't generally leak upwards, so the worst of it is probably underneath. The set comes with new tube seals. Have a look underneath if you can to confirm. You'll know it's the valve cover gaskets if the oil is leaking outward of the exhaust manifold.

Does it smell towards the rear of the car or the front? Gas evaporates quick. Check the base of the injectors where they go into the block and all the associated lines fuel rails gaskets etc while someone turns the key on and off to prime the fuel pump. Usually that will expose a leak.

No problem. Just keep in mind that the pending code might not come right back. You may have to drive it a bit or it may have a two trip logic (honestly I don't know if it does) so if it's still missing but no code, drive for a few minutes, shut the car off for a minute or so, then start it back up and drive for another few minutes and check again. If the misfire doesn't move, check the plug first and if the plug is good it's most likely the coil pack. Any mechanical failure will usually be constant, not intermittent. Difficult to say for sure when diagnosing via forum. Lol

The CEL will usually come on when you're plugged in to the OBD. Swap the number three wire to a different cylinder. Don't forget to swap it on the coil too. Then check to see if the misfire moves to that cylinder.

Well then hopefully the harness plugs are the same. Lol. If not I hope I can splice them to the OB plug. Don't know if there's a difference in the tooth count or software. Or if I can swap out the abs computer if there is. Oh well, worst case scenario I pull the abs bulb so the light doesn't bother me.

Fwiw to anyone having a similar issue. Bad grounds or poor connections will usually behave slightly different. Like when hitting a pothole or a bumpy street etc. Still good to check them. if it's happening at idle when stopped, it's usually the charging system. Any time an additional Load is placed on the system the lights will dim, like the radiator fan kicking in and out. Might save some time in the diagnostic portion.

If it's the knock sensor, there should be a diagnostic trouble code for it specifically. Definitely check your obd. Even if there is no CEL on currently, an intermittent issue could store a history or pending code without turning the light on.

does it only do it cold or hot or both? Is there a CEL? If there is, check that first. To check for vacuum leaks start the car and spray the vaccum lines and intake manifold gaskets with carb cleaner. You should notice a slight change in idle speed if there's a leak and it sucks in the cleaner. Usually vaccum leak symptoms will decrease as engine speed goes up though. Make sure your throttle is clean and if not, spray with carb cleaner with engine running above idle (around 2 or 3k rpm). Outside of the plugs, you can go to a local lube place and have them perform a fuel injector cleaner service. Sometimes that's all they need. The one that's sucked up into the manifold, not the gas tank additive.

even if it's the bearing and just the bearing, seems silly to pay all that labor just to replace a bearing. Especially without knowing what else could go wrong in the near future. Kind of like doing a timing belt without replacing the water pump. If you're gonna rip it out anyway, may as well replace with a rebuilt even if just for peace of mind. Or you could always have yours rebuilt in the process. That's just what I would do or recommend to a customer. Most people replace with a junkyard unit and say a prayer.

Right about the abs for sure. I'm not overly concerned with it, but the forester should have press in bearings so both cars most likely have the tone ring that bolts to the inside of the hub. Rear diff has different gearing from what I understand. Initially was gonna keep as a spare but will probably get rid of it. I wasn't planning on transferring any of the drivetrain components. It's definitely getting a new clutch while I'm at it though and possibly some upgraded mounts and shift linkages. That might have to be part of phase two. I'm limited in time as far as use of my shop after hours. The rear on the forester is definitely drums. I'll work my way around that, even if I have to block off the rear lines for now until I have it sorted. I'd prefer to keep rotors out back especially with any concerns that might come up with proportioning. Once its drive able, then I'll worry about the small details.

That depends, are there any other known issues or upcoming repairs? How much do you personally want to keep it? Anything at this point is a crap shoot to be honest. If you know for sure that you want to keep the car, I personally would probably source another unit and have it rebuilt and then swap them out at some point or wait until it goes. Then you can sell your old unit. If you're not sure if it's worth the repair, but don't want to get into another car, drive it until it breaks.

I did hear something about that. I figured I'd reuse mine until I was able to locate one. If that's the only additional loss in this project im happy with that.

That's what I figured. Things like exhaust mounts or different attachment points. I'll say a prayer for the alignment. I'm running new brake lines. Etc I checked your website. I would be getting the 4" EJ correct? How would I go about lengthening the steering shaft? Chop and weld?

you sir, are my savior. I knew anyone that produced lift kits would know the ins and outs. The few companies that I reached out to ignored my requests.