lmdew

It's not the 16 flashes after start up indicating a fault code. When driving for a while, it will start flashing continuously. Engine Temp is fine, normal driving no shifting issues. Turn the car off and start it again and the AT TEMP is back to normal. Helping a fellow here in Colorado Springs. Thoughts? Thanks, Larry

Yes than that would be poor design. I've never seen one without the retaining circle clip about an 1/8" inside the CV joint. Subaru or aftermarket? I always stay with the Green Subaru halfshafts.

Yep, just pop it back in. It can take a good wack from the end of the axle. If you have the lower ball joint out so it's free, you can use the weight of the brake/hub to give you some weight.

Pressure switch is forward just off the condenser in the HP line. I unplugged it, jumped it the plug and the AC worked. Plugged it back in and the AC works. A little corrosion cleaned maybe. It's so tight up front you can't see the connector very well. We'll see what happens! Thanks to all.

Thanks.

Yes swapped the relay no change. I'll dig into it a bit more. When I jumped the AC and the compressor kicked on it was getting cold. Thanks

I had it service Nov 2024 after replacing the Evaporator due to a leak. Worked great till the other day. Then NO AC. No leaks and when I hook up the cheapo service gauge pressure is High, in the red. I pulled the AC Relay and jumped it. AC compressor kicked in and the gauge went into the green. I'll take it back to the service location, just thought I'd put this out there to get your thoughts. Thanks, Larry

Yep Relay would be my bet.

Drill up through the floor to locate the center. Hole saw down from inside to hold the nut with a socket. Long breaker bar, turn it by hand. PB Blaster or something like it to lube the threads.

Yep, if you can change just the glass it's less work. All of them I've had the side tracks/guides were broken and required a complete replacement.

It's not a hard job, but very labor intensive. - Remove all the interior trim around the windows to drop the headliner. Do it when it's warm and there is less chance of the plastic pins breaking. - Remove the headliner, drop the seats so you have the most room to turn it and get it out the rear hatch without bend it too much - Disconnect the sunroof wiring and drain tubes - Unbolt the sunroof, 2 helpers make it easier. - Reverse to install the used one. If you have access to self-serve yards, you can practice on a yard car. I know some of the slide hardware changed from year to year. If you change the complete frame that issue goes away. Best of luck!

Yes that's the spring. Hope the bushings take care of it.

car-part.com is a good source. Put in your info and search. As long as you match the rear diff ratio many will interchange.

Nice, always good when USMB members return.