My64bit
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Everything posted by My64bit
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Hey GD, any chance you could give some advice on the current problem? (I have had the battery disconnected for the last three weeks or so on my 1998 Forester. Last night I spent the night cleaning the garage so I could put it inside out of the sun. When I hooked the battery back up my marker lights and dome lights all started flashing, it's not the flashers. Is this some sort of safe mode the car is in? I can not get it to stop. I have one of the cooling fans out right now, but it was not doing this before I disconnected the battery. It starts up and runs just fine and I pulled it inside. Even with the ignition off and the key out it keeps flashing? I had to disconnect the battery again to make it stop. What would cause this?) It is parked in the driveway right now, engine off with the key out of the ignition and it will flash 30 times, stop for 10 seconds, flash for 30 seconds, stop for 10 sends, just keeps repeating the process. Thank you. -
Cycling the ignition switch does not stop it. It even continues to flash after shutting the car off and removing the key? Any other ideas? Thanks
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I'll try cycling the ignition, I do not have remotes for the car. Do you know if there is a way to tell if the car was made with keyless entry? Thanks for the tip.
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I have had the battery disconnected for the last three weeks or so on my 1998 Forester. Last night I spent the night cleaning the garage so I could put it inside out of the sun. When I hooked the battery back up my marker lights and dome lights all started flashing, it's not the flashers. Is this some sort of safe mode the car is in? I can not get it to stop. I have one of the cooling fans out right now, but it was not doing this before I disconnected the battery. It starts up and runs just fine and I pulled it inside. Even with the ignition off and the key out it keeps flashing? I had to disconnect the battery again to make it stop. What would cause this? Thanks.
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Man, it was a hassle to add images to the gallery and figure out how to get them here. Hoping this works. I could not load several of the images of the car I took, it kept telling me they were forbidden, they were within the size limits, no clue why I was getting a forbidden message. But, here are a few pics of the car since I got it cleaned up. It was a mess inside when I started. The plastics were literally brown with dirt from the farm.
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When you say you would replace "The Pulley's" are you referring to the idler's? I was planing on replacing the timing belt, timing belt tensioner, two smooth idler's, the toothed idler, the water pump and both fan belts. I was not planning on replacing the four cam pulley's unless they look worn or damaged. Input on those four pulley's would be appreciated but I felt they would be ok if they looked good. I have no clue how many miles are on the parts, I want everything that should be replace to prevent a failure for the long term replaced. If that means letting it sit a while till I can afford to do it right, then I let it sit. I do not need it right away. Aside from the knocking tensioner I think the engine will sound fine after the timing components are replaced. Nice to know the EJ22 is plug & play, I would go with one if this engine fails. I think the engine and everything mechanical has been well maintained on the car. The lady said it started knocking and she just decided to get a new car. She had just had this one serviced and new tires put on when the knock developed. She was told it was a rod bearing and that the repairs would be be more than the car was worth. Right now I am looking at around $250 to replace all the parts I listed. I will also add a tow package, another $120. And I would like to find a nice steel roof basket cargo carrier to mount to the roof rack. I would like to replace the carpet, looks like OEM is the only thing available for carpet. Not sure I want to spend that much. There is a crack in the windshield and I will be replacing that also. Thank you for your input, I appreciate it.
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I called NAPA for price quotes before I knew to ask for specific brands. So far the best prices I have found are from Amazon. Thank you for your input.
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Thank you GD, this info should help.
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Thank you
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I called Subaru today to see about ordering these specific brands. They had no clue what I was talking about. NTN, Mitsuboshi, Aisin, Koyo, NSK he said would all be after market parts unless they are manufactured by these companies for Subaru, in which case he would need Subaru part numbers. Where do you normally purchase these parts from? Thank you
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Ok, I can deal with the $90 Amazon unit. Is NTN the brand name? I will look for the other other items by brand as well then. Thank you
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The Amazon unit though is aftermarket? or is it OEM? Thanks
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GD, do you happen to know approximately what an OEM tensioner costs? too late to get a price from the dealers.
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So even the ones from Napa, AutoZone, etc. are no good? I have not yet priced one through Subaru.
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I would go 7500 running pure synthetic, 3500 running standard oil, Are the EJ22 and EJ33 both SOHC engines? Thanks
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Ok GD, i just pulled the left side timing belt cover, belt is hopping a little at idle, knock was soft with 1/4 inch deflection to none at all, knock was fading in & out with the belt deflection, throttle up a little and the knock gets louder and more solid and the belt starts to deflect a good 1/2 inch or more. My question now is, what do you think of the cheaper belt tensioners? I have found them from $37 online to $183 in the auto parts stores. Your input one quality would be much appreciated. Also, should I replace the idlers as well even if they are tight and spin smooth? Thanks
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Mostly I need a larger wide seat that is good and firm, I need to be able to move around and change position and I can not do that in these little cars. Big full size cars and trucks just fit me better. I am 6'4" 280 pounds. I just do not fit well in these tiny cars. And with four herniated discs, multiple pinched nerves in my lumbar and three herniated discs in my neck with multiple pinched nerves ans stenosis, bone spurs and deterioration throughout my spine, it's hard to get comfortable. I have to stop to get out and move around about every 30 minutes. Working on things is really slow going, lol.
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My Corolla is the first Toyota I have ever owned. It's a decent car for cheap reliable economic transportation. Beyond that I am not horribly impressed. It's cheaply built, cramped and causes me pain to drive far. It only gets about 5 mpg more than my 2001 Lincoln Town Car did. I bought the Lincoln with 91k miles, it had over 250k on it when I got rid of it. Still looked like new inside & out, drove like a new car, ran like a new car. That was one of the smoothest, quietest and most comfortable cars I have owned. I would like to find another one with low miles and as nice as my last one. I tend to prefer full sized cars & trucks though, I'm 6'4", 280 Lbs with severe spinal deterioration and damage, these small cars are not good for my spine.
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I have a Toyota Corolla, 1 Qt of 10-40 Mobile 1 every 1500-1800 miles. It has about 145k miles on it, strong engine. I know the new shorter piston skirts the manufactures have gone to were for the greater cause of economy as well, but those short skirts are also the cause if severe piston slap in low mileage engines. I am starting to think I might also be hearing some slap, but it sounds different than what I am used to hearing in old air cooled engines with long piston skirts. I will try and get a video and see if I can get it loaded to YouTube, tried once before a couple years back and it was a no go for some reason. I do photography and know it well, not too familiar with video. Thanks.
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I am planing on pulling it apart, likely this week. I will check the tensioner, if bad I will replace the tensioner, belts, idlers and water pump. I downloaded the service manual PDF and printed out the section for the timing belt procedure. Is the EJ22 the SOHC engine? quite honestly I would much rather have a SOHC, I work on bikes a lot, SOHC engines are much friendlier to work on that DOHC egines If switching to an EJ22 does it use the same computer and electronics as the EJ25? If I can keep it going on the cheap I will keep it and drive it, otherwise I would rather have a truck. Money is very tight for us right now and will be for a long time. Thank you for your Input.
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I can not figure out how to upload a picture or a video? I know I loaded a couple of pics before, now it asks for a link? I have not yet made a video. I will get that in a few days and if anything load it to another site and link it. Any particular site that works good?
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I think I will pick up the tensioner & timing belt soon, install those and see what it sounds like after that. If I can get the thing to sound decent I will keep it and drive it. If not I will off it and get a small truck, which I would have a lot more use for anyway. Right now I am not in this thing very deep money wise, I am not going to bury myself putting money into a car with 250k miles on it. The engine oil looks fresh and clean, straight out bottle clean.
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Unfortunately I can not afford to drop that kind of money right now, Maybe later I could, but it will be a long way's down the road. I could justify the $300 tool easier right now. I just finished pressure washing and the knocking was gone after the engine sat running all that time. Now when I bump up the throttle the engine is making a rattling type knock, completely different sound. Possibly detonation from water that has not dried out yet. Give a bit to see what it is doing and let things dry out. Thanks
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I just gave a listen to it with the stethoscope. It seems to be the loudest under the AC pump. I can also hear it from the rear of the block, slightly less so. On the heads it seems more muted yet. I'm guessing it is the tensioner. Getting ready to pressure wash it now. All that would need to be done is the valve lash, valve cover gaskets and cam seals. I will be putting in a new timing belt, tensioner, idlers, water pump myself soon. Thank you
