My64bit

That explanation on the valves makes sense. It does not look like adjusting the shims would be possible with the engine in the car? What does having the valves adjusted in your shop generally run? I am might go buy a stethoscope today, cheap from Harbor Freight and they are close by. I will check on the manual download, thanks for the tip. I am getting ready to go pressure the engine and get it ready to get into the timing belt. I might have apart something this week. I've been dealing with really bad allergies, felt like I have had the flu the last two weeks, makes getting much done difficult. Thanks

I could not get on the site last night to reply, was the site down? I have worked on motorcycles and air cooled Volkswagen's for years, solid lifter systems are pretty much the standard, and tolerances increase over time. I am curious how the valve train would become tighter over time? I am starting to believe you are right about the timing belt tensioner. I watched some more clips and found a couple that sound much like mine. I was looking at tensioners online and I am finding them selling for $37 to around $130, does it pay to buy the higher priced unit? if so what is the difference. Also, would it be wise to replace all the idlers and water pump at the same time. I was also reading that it is wise to pull the oil pump, inspect and replace the pump if worn or at minimum replace the seals. Another issue I ran into yesterday. I went shopping for a manual. Not one automotive store had one. Finally, a guy at AutoZone ask's me if I had Googled the internet for one, and proceeds to tell me that he has seen several vehicles they do not make manuals for. I can get a PDF of the Subaru Shop Service manual online for $15, but that is it. I'm not a fan of PDF and prefer a book. There appear to be no aftermarket manuals. Do you know if Subaru has a single shop service manual for the car and if so the cost? I have found some shop manuals on eBay but they were multi volume sets and quite expensive. I do appreciate your help and input, sorry if I seem a bit bullheaded at times. I am pretty stubborn and set in my way's. Thank you

I just went out and looked at the engine, looks to be a DOHC engine, so I expect it is a shim setup to adjust the valves? looks pretty tight to do that with the engine in the car as well. Looks like I would have to post a link to a video stored off site? Anyway, off to bed now.

I can pick up a stethoscope. It sounds like it is coming from the left bank (driver side). I am not sure how to ID the engine to know if it was ever swapped, though I do not think so. Ok, time for me to go to bed, I have been up all night with a bad sinus headache, I need to try and sleep. Thanks for the help guys.

I plan to get it up on the ramps this weekend, I will look for those things as well. Yes, I have had the hood up? The only other Subaru's I have owned were a 77 wagon and a Justy with a 3 cyl engine. Just not familiar with the quirks of these engines. Thank you for the tips.

Ok, so they have a solid valve train. Single overhead cam I believe so it should be a tappet system, I can do a valve adjust and see if that helps. I had a tappet fall out in a motorcycle one time and it sounded identical to this noise except it would never stop when increasing rpm's from idle like this does. Personally I think the sound is too consistent to be a tensioner, though I can check that easy enough as well to rule it out. A rod bearing should get louder with increased rpm's, this really does not change other than in tempo. If it gets rebuilt I will do the rebuild myself, I am capable of the job and have the tools for it. Thanks for the re-build offer, but I just can not afford to have the work done by a shop. Any work that gets done will have to be done by me. My Harley is currently all torn down in my garage for the same reason. I will start checking things out soon and see what I come up with. I might make a video of it as well. Can we post video here?

I know what piston slap sounds like, this is not piston slap. I was watching some videos on the timing belt tensioners and they sounded nothing like this to me. I do not have a stethoscope, I will have to pick one up.

I was planning on doing oil change, the oil looks pretty clean but I have no clue what they put in it. I will give the MMO a shot, I have used it in the past.

A couple of days ago I picked up a 1998 Forester, the main issue I am concerned with is a knocking sound in the engine. I think the knocking sound is a lifter. It is a small hammer tapping type sound. If the car is idling in neutral and I increase the rpm's a bit, the tapping normally stops. But if I am driving around town, just normal easy driving, the tapping stays. Under load 20-25 on a steep hill, level ground 20-35+, going downhill, etc, it seems to stay pretty much the same other than the tempo changing with rpm's. I keep thinking it sounds like a sticky lifter. A rod bearing should get louder under load? and a wrist pin quieter under load? If I remember correctly. I have looked up videos and they show the timing belt tensioner gone bad making a rattle, but this is not a rattle, it is a definite tapping that is in tune with the rpm's of the engine. The engine has 246,000 miles on it. I am considering pulling it and rebuilding it. Any opinions appreciated, Thanks.

Hello, I just picked up a 1998 Forester. It's in pretty good condition, but has some issues to iron out. I was looking for info on the car and stumbled upon this forum. I will post about the issues later this evening, need to head out for the day. Looking forward to meeting some people in the group. Thanks.