Scottbaru

two senders?

I had that situation while helping fix a flat on the highway. Tried hitting it with feet, hammer, 2x4, no luck. Whacked it with the space saver and it popped right off. Pretty good mass and soft enough to do no damage.

Shouldn't "fail safe" be safe for the engine?

Heh, and we complain on the Audi forum about our timing belts! Landcruisers have always been chains, Toyota seems to like them. I have a year or so 'till my belt needs renewing, hopefully I'll have a list of parts to tend to while I'm in there. Any suggestions for that list? -Scott

Last night an '01 with 80k went for $8000 on eBay. That's where I got my legacy, thousands below what I was willing to pay. Subarus don't seem to do well on eBay, except the higher value ones. I watched several incredible deals go before deciding to bid on mine.

I usually go with rebuilt calipers, not much more $, complete rebuild, much time saved. Good time to flush the brake lines.

I'd expect resistance specs for checking the health of those sensors, both hot and cold. I doubt it would be in my Haynes manual, maybe someone with a factory service manual?

A major function of oil is to keep moving parts from contacting each other and wearing. Young engines have clean, close fitting parts that glide easily on thin layers of oil, very little metal-to-metal contact. Old engines have larger and more irregular gaps, harder for the oil to keep the parts from touching and wearing. Thicker oil is ok for older engines, I've changed my last seven cars over to M1 15W50 at 100k, no problems at over 200k. And no deserts here either. Synthetic oil is better at cushioning impacts, and older engines with more play benefit from that. A ticking sound is probably some sort of impact, my VWs and Audis have had ticking valve trains from birth. One problem often cited with changing to synthetic is that it cleans out congealed oil, sometimes opening up leaks. It's possible it cleaned out some deposits under your piston rings or on your cylinder walls and now there's room for the piston to wobble a bit at the bottom of it's stroke.

If Calvin is Calvin College, I have room in my home garage, tools galore, and a spankin' new Haynes manual. Even keys to a machine shop if it gets that bad. Fair warning, I just bought my Subaru and know few specifics about them.

I've switched several cars over at around 100k and had no problems running over 200k. I notice the grunge visible on the cap and in the engine gradually goes away, probably from the extra detergents in Mobil1. I've heard the congealed, waxy buildup on seals can also dissolve and result in leaks.

Not a good first post, that's a Legacy wagon.

I bought this '99 2.2l with 77k and a new clutch. I found some complaints online about these clutches failing early, but nothing about replacement clutches. Do they usually last after replacing the factory clutch and bearings? My VW synchros went 200k on original clutches 'till I crashed them hitting deer. My daughter learned to drive in my quattro wagon, now she's in college with over 250k on the original clutch. What can I expect with this car? Oh, and hi!