Scottbaru

Fuel pump relays are a weak point on older Audi's, you can hear the pump buzz when you first turn the key on, 'till it builds pressure. If not, the relay is suspect. Cracking the fuel line should get a good squirt of gas if the pump is building up pressure. Yeah, the push start success is puzzling, you're just turning over the engine another way. Less demand on the electric system though, so maybe a weak electrical component has just enough power with the push start. How's your battery? Maybe try putting it on a charger with boost for start to eliminate that variable. I found slowly pouring a cup of water on my crank position sensor cooled it enough for a start, I don't suppose you're pushing it fast enough to cool anything.

I've had similar hot start trouble on another car that turned out to be the crank position sensor. It's resistance went way up when hot. You should be able to check the resistance, but I don't have the numbers. I've noticed a lot of threads about crank sensors here, never see them on the other four car forums I'm on, I suspect they're a weak item. But I'm a newbie.

Unless you're going to replace it soon, use moly grease (molybdenum disulfide), not general purpose wheel bearing type grease.

Ceramic and semi-metallic pads are harder and last longer, but don't they wear the rotors more rapidly? They can generate and withstand more heat, is anyone having trouble with warped rotors? I've had trouble with squeeling brakes when I used aftermarket pads on other cars, had to go to OEM, how are Subarus with aftermarket pads? Looks like I have rear drums, haven't seen those in a while.

It could be the filament is broken, and occasionally the ends of the wire bounce against each other and weld together for awhile.

Why does the Haynes cover '90 thru '98, didn't this series go through '99? I found the same thing on my 80-series Landcruisers, they stopped one year before the series ended.

Thanks, I didn't know they're separate, I'm such a newbie. The local pick-n-pull has a burned-interior Outback, not much use.

Any idea if it'll fit my '99 2.2 5spd? I have a blank instead of a tach, kind of miss having a tach.

Headgaskets are one of the few weaknesses discussed on the 80-series Landcruiser forums. Failure can get expensive. I'm new to Subaru's, other than a brief, painful experience with an '87. One of the first things I was told in my research was avoid the 2.5 engine. So their reputation is growing, resale may suffer. A customer of mine has an '03 OB, leaked coolant, dealer put in the magic potion. He knows it's a temporary fix, but has lots of miles on the warranty. I'd sell it if I was him, and I don't know what new Subaru I'd buy to replace it.

Careful, the windshield can delaminate at high temps.

We had good luck with Daniel Stern on the Landcruiser group, my brother set up some group buys. Stern is conservative about overwattage, for wiring and plastic lenses. The headlight bulbs I bought required some trimming of the fastening parts, but fit well. They weren't amazingly brighter, but a definite improvement. I'm used to the 100W headlights on my Audi. The taillight results were similar, not as big an improvement since they're not as bright. He sold us Krypton bulbs for the taillights, I already had halogens from JC Whitney, so I wasn't as impressed. I haven't looked at the Subie's taillight sockets, they likely wouldn't take the heat of halogens, Kryptons would be a good choice. Another source of HIR headlights is http://www.hirheadlights.com/, better price and apparently pre-trimmed to fit. This was posted but I don't know if anyone tried it. I'll check into it eventually, but I've barely opened the hood on this Subaru and haven't gotten to the headlights.

It's tight, with plenty of copper anti-sieze, thanks.

In my first venture under the hood of this Subaru, I found what looks like an engine ground wire laying loose on top of the tranny, coming from the left side. It's heavy gage and black, the end has a bracket with a hole crimped to it. I'm not sure where it's supposed to go, I put it under the upper nut for the starter. The bracket looked purposeful, but there was no other obvious place to attach it. There are a couple threaded holes on top of the tranny, but they didn't look recently used, and this probably happened recently when the clutch went in.

It worked, thanks! Fortunately the mechanic didn't tighten the nuts on the cable end. I also got the cruise control working with a piece of tape over the hole in the clutch pedal arm, so that's solved too. The pedal seems uncomfortably high right now, I'll look for a pad on a threaded rod to put in the hole where the tape is, maybe I can get the pedal down a few inches.

I used to be an engineer at the place that makes most of the worlds auto mirrors (Donnelly), I'd have this one done. Mirror mounting kits seem to fall off, removing occasionally breaks the glass. I haven't done it, but guys I know have had bad luck. Good time to snag an auto dimmer with compass from a junkyard, they're starting to show up.

Thanks, didn't notice anything like that last night, an uncomplicated machine so far.

Was the replacement OEM? I just bought my '99 with a new clutch, I expect the shop that sold it to me went with cheapest parts, not OEM. They said the old clutch chattered badly.

I don't know if I'm supposed to have a hill holder, this wagon has minimal options, how would I know?

Thanks, I'll try the adjustment. I moonlight as a project engineer at a machine shop, lots of springs and pads lying about. Worst case I'll have to measure and order something from McMaster-Carr.

I just bought this '99 2.2 legacy wagon with 77k, and a new clutch. My clutch pedal has been sticking just lower than my brake pedal, clutch seems fully engaged at that point. The pedal pops up with a light tap. I can see the spring on the pedal is overcentering at that point: pushing the pedal down below that point and pushing it up above that point. The spring on the tranny lever looks in good shape, and seems to be hooked where it logically should be to pull on the cable, raising the pedal. The clutch cable at the tranny lever is at the middle of it's adjustment. Is this pedal sticking common? I expect the fix will be to bend the spring on the tranny shorter or replace it with something stronger. This clutch pedal does all it's work in the bottom few inches, is that normal for these cars? At the top of it's travel the clutch pedal hits a switch with a small plunger. The pedal has a small hole right where the plunger hits, so the plunger just sticks through that hole instead of being pressed in. I suspect there should be something else there, like a pad that sticks in that hole. I suspect this is why my cruise control is inop, it thinks my clutch pedal is down. The boot over the clutch lever on the tranny is torn, where best to get a new one? Thanks!

No access to your pics. HTTP1.1 STATUS 403 Remote Access to this object forbidden This file cannot be directly accessed from a remote site, but must be linked through the Brinkster Member's site.

I used the starter method on my Landcruiser a few weekends ago. A particularly stubborn crank bolt took many hits of the starter, burned the strarter contacts out. Luckily they're replaceable and I had a spare set. Legacy's little bolt shouldn't be as tough as this one (torqued to 304ft-lb and aged). I'm new here, but I advize if the Legacy doesn't have a tough, gear-reduction starter, with replaceable parts, I'd avoid the starter method

Nice, thanks for the pics! I moonlight as an engineer in a machine shop, work with bearings a lot, can those pulley bearings be replaced? Or are pulleys cheap enough it's not worth it? I could even make some new pulleys, but not the toothed one. What's the pin spanner for, looks like crank pulley?

A warehouse with a loading dock must have at least one forklift. You should be able to do this without smudging the suit!