lefty2053

Can this cause the vacuum advance unit to not function? In the Haynes book, it says to watch the timing mark as you set the tach up to 2500 RPM's and then remove the vacuum Advance line. As you remove it, it is suposed to move the TDC (0) mark closer to the timing pointer. When you replace the vacuum hose it should move away from it. In the book it says that if replacing the vacuum hose produces an abrupt increase in the advance, or none at all the vacuum advance unit is probably defective. Well I tried this and with the hose off or on it didn't make any difference in the timing mark. Didn't move towards nor away with it on or off. Can the bushings being bad in the distributor cause this as well or is the vacuum advance unit bad also? Can I buy the bushings or is this a $190 distributor I will have to buy? Thanks for any help on these questions. Only been on this board a short time, and have asked many questions already. Thanks for all your help.

I will give that a try if after I re-time it this morning doesn't work. Thanks guys for your input.

Did that and found it to be tight. I am going to check the timing again this morning and see if it's off. For some reason I can't remember removing the vacuum when I timed it last time. Could not removing it cause it to do this? And the advance is trying to adjust when it doesn't need to!

Heres what is going on. I was in the car waiting for it to warm up. I was watching the tach go from 800 to 1300 and up to 1800 RPMS every few seconds. I opened the hood and heard a strange sound. I tracked it down to the distributor and you can feel the distributor when the noise and tach changes. It feels and sounds like a grinding from with in the distributor. I opened it up and found nothing weird, (new cap and rotor) no scratches on them. Can this be the vacuum advance unit malfunctioning? I hope someone can help on this one. I have the timing set correct and I looked for and used soapie water to find any vacuum lines that might be bad, but couldn't find any. I have tightened the bolts on the carb,about 1/4 turn each. Didn't make any difference.

Loose one, yeah, loose two, darn it, loose more than 2, just need to wake up before getting out to put the gas in. Or just dont breathe the fumes so much. Use the drill and hang it with a wire.

My daughter has a VW Wagon, it made the same kind of noise comming from around the shifter area. We thought the tranny was going or the clutch was having a problem. The noise went away. Now I am thinking it was a rock stuck in the boot of the split drive shaft. And so at any speed, it would make the squeel until the rock either decintegrated or fell out. Must have been rubbing against the drive shaft. Not that this is your problem, but you might look for something simular.

Thanks, I will check it out. I do know things get loose after a while, no matter how tight they seem when installed.

No, I was just going through the causes of a car that backfires and one of them is the posibility of the valves sticking. This is out of the Haynes book. 1.Emmission System not functioning 2.Ingition timing incorrect 3.Carb needs adjustment or worn excessively 4.Vacuum leak at carb,intake manifold or vacuum hoses 5.Valve clearence incorrectly set, and /or valves sticking. Out of these posibilities I am leaning towards #5 Everything else seems ok. Carb is clean all hoses look good, timing is set. Not sure about the emmisions system. Will read about it next.

Ok, I got the timming set correctly(now that I used plug 1 instead of 3) and now I would like to know if there is a product to use that will unstick sticking valves? The car runs pretty good now, but there is that backfire while shifting out of 2nd and 3rd. Any ideas on cost of having someone checking the valves? Or a product that might work?

Just a tidbit. I bought a truck with an automatic in it. It was slipping all the time when cold. I flushed the tranny out and put in a new filter and the truck never slipped again. Could be just old fluid in it. As for fluids, there is a FORD fluid only and then there is anything else.

Ok well I will check the rotor in the morning. As for the fireing order, It looked correct to me when I tried to time it. Carb yes! Here is what I saw when I looked in the cover over the flywheel. Top | | Bottom 10 A 0 B 10 Now picture this a a round flywheel. When I turned it I found the line on one side and the timming marks on the opisite side. The car runs ok, but not as strong as I think it should. There is a little backfire when shifting out of 2nd. I can punch it on a slight hill and it will maybe go 60. Takes a lot of gas pedel to get it up to speed, 55. Raps out at 20 in first, 35 in second and then 55 in third. Ok guys, I went back and found I am an idiot. When I timed the car the other day(laugh now) I used the #3 plug wire. 180 degrees off.

Dizzy= Distributor? So if it isn't pointing to the #1 Plug I need to pull out the distributor and replace it until the rotor is pointing at the #1 plug? Wouldn't the car not run if it was that far off? I haven't ever done this before, but I thought if the distributor was put in that far off the car wouldn't run.

Thanks for those that showed me where the Timming mark was at. I now have another question. After trying to line up the timming mark and then running the timming light , I found that there is 2 TDC marks on this flywheel. One has the 10 A 0 B 10 marks on it and the other side of the flywheel has only a line going through it. I can not time this car using the first timming marks. It only works using the single line and so I have to guess where to time it at. I just guessed it to be about the 8 degres BTDC . The Distribator will not turn enough to use the timming marks that are stamped on the flywheel. (10 A 0 B 10) Any ideas why there is 2 timming marks and why the stamped settings will not work? Oh these marks are about 180 degress or straight accross from each other. Just a little confused here!

Thanks guys, found the cover and mark. I was looking in the front of the engine compartment, near the flywheel as the book stated. I wasn't going to advance it much, it just wasn't running quite right. It would backfire when going out of 2nd gear. And seemed to lack power. I know this motor doesn't have power in the first place, but it still seemed a bit sluggish. It has new plugs and rotor, I might change the wires as well.

I was going to try and set the timing on this thing and can't find the ignition timing mark nor the timing mark access hole on the right side of the flywheel housing. I read in the Haynes Subaru 1600 1800 book about this and I am stumped. It says : "Locate the timing mark access hole on the right side of the flywheel housing. Remove the rubber cover." I can't find the access hole nor the rubber cover. What am I missing here? I used a flashlight and still can't see anything like this. I was going to set the timing because I am using a higher grade gas then it had been used to. Any help would be apreciated greatly.

Thanks for all the replys. I will give these things a try.

Thanks John, never thought about putting in a T for that purpose. I did take out the left side dash part and a couple of other pieces that allowed me to see the linkage to the heater control. Looked like it was in good shape, and tried to open the Water Cock farther, but it seemed to be open all the way after turning the Heater Control from Cold to hot. Must be the core itself. The car only has 137,000 miles on it but I guess that is enough to clog the core if it didn't have good coolent in it.

Is it posible to back flush the heater core from under the hood of the car? Would I need some extra hoses and or connecters to do so? I looked at the Heater core replacement link and I would like to just try back flushing it first is I can. Other questions are: Can the heater control (the one that goes from Cool to Hot) just have a loose cable on it and if so how do you tighten it so that when you turn it to hot the cable is tight? Do you have to take apart the radio and dash to fix this as well? Just trying the cheapest method first, I can't do the work myself, so I will have to have someone do these for me. Thanks for any help.

As promised here is a pic of the car I bought. How is it I show pics other than as an Avatar?

The body is straight with a high shine on the paint which is very nice. I beleive the car has been garaged. I was looking at the undercarage yesterday and it is in very good condition. Interior is completely clean as well. Just has seat covers on the front and the rear is flawless. Pics to follow.

I could take a few pics and post them. Do I just post them in my profile? Or can I add them in the message area using the insert image function? What is the size limit?

Lazear has the population of 60. I go ice fishing to Vega,Blue Mesa and Crawford so far. In the summer I go to The Grand Mesa(right up the street from me on the back side) and then I go to the Gold metal waters of the Gunnison, Ridgeway, Crawford, Miramonte, Groundhog, SIlverjack and a few others. Dont know the difference in the 2 hatches. Mine has the 1600, with I would guess the timing belt. Are you from GJ? Yampa and Colorado huh, (greatest fisherman of all time) Thats a big statement.

The reason I bought it is for a fishing car. Wanted something small with good gas mileage, for longer trips and 4x4 for the ice fishing trips. Will take it ice fishing this weekend. My ice sled fits in the back with the rear seats down just fine. Thanks for the reply.

Are these cars rare? Why I ask is I just bought one and haven't seen any on the web at any of the sites I have been to. The one I bought is dark gray with gray interior. It has only 137,000 miles on it and is in very good shape including the high shine on the paint. I thought I got a deal on it for $1800. I am the third ower, the last owner had it for about a year and the original ower bought it just 63 miles from where I live. It has the original owners books with it. That is where I saw the first owners name and where it was purchaced new. Still looking for the source of the heat problem. Might just wait until summer to get it fixed.

Nice pictures and instructions on removing the heater core, but I will still have to have someone else do it for me. Bad back keeps me from doing much at all. Thanks for the tip. I might print it out and have the shop or a friend do it that way. Looks like a lot easier method.