Souperoo

The bill says he put 75/90 GLF in it. The Subaru Hi Po is the same weight from what I see?

2004 Forester. Previous owner was hard on the tranny and it was rebuilt with a 1 year 12,000 mile guarantee which I'm not sure is transferable. I talked to the tranny guy and he told me that the kid that was driving it had to be rough on it, although I forgot to ask what the actual problem was. But there were parts for 1st and 2nd on the bill. Anyway everything seemed fine, maybe a little hard to go into 1st and 2nd when cold, then yesterday I drove it early when it was colder overnight. It was hard to get out of 1st and 2nd and hard to go into them also, even when I sort of matched the rps's with the speed if you know what I mean. In the first few miles it slowly got better as it warmed up until it got "normal". So do you think it's a real problem or just the way they are? And by cold I mean it was only down to about freezing. I hate to think of how it will work when REALLY cold. I can stop by the transmission shop and ask/tell him, but of course then it will be warm and shift easy. I'm trying to be positive and thinking that the new parts will get "broken in" and it will get better. Or is that foolish and it will only get worse? It's supposed to get cold later next week so that would be a good time to leave it there. Subaru doesn't happen to use a special kind of gear lube do they? The main part that was changed is a 32219AA320 1-2 gear and hub.

I ordered one with the second part number, took a $15 chance. Some sales say it will replace the early part number (it looks identical) but on a website on Ebay one with the second part number lists a lot of Subaru's but not one Forrester? I'll see what happens. I used my Amazon 5% rebate credit cards rebate so the purchase actually only cost me 20 cents!

GD, my logic is "less is more". I wrote that I don't lock the car 95% of the time, that equals locking it 5% of the time. The one time I did lock it since I've owned it about a month now turned into the alarm sounding and me not knowing how to stop it. So I came here for help. I was looking for a way to disable the alarm when the car is locked with the lock button on the drivers side door. I found it here. It's called the valet mode. Yes at first I wanted to completely disable the alarm semi permanently, but I learned here that I can't. I am going to get an extra fob to leave in the car like 1LT suggested, or I suppose if I find myself in a really bad neighborhood and I'm brave enough to get out of the car, maybe I'll take the fob with me. Prices for fobs are all over the place, now I need to know if a 88035AC231 fob can be replaced with a A269zua111 without any difficulty. Thanks for all your help, Tony

You guys just don't get it. In my driving history of about 41 years I have never had anything stolen out of my vehicles, and 95% of the time I don't even lock the doors. Maybe you all have more expensive things in your cars than I do? So for me it's just a pain the the rump roast to carry around a big fat key fob when I'm used to just a couple keys with no fob at all. I even have different key rings for my different vehicles so they are nice and small in my jeans pocket with just 2 or 3 keys. Maybe I need bigger jeans and a tighter belt to keep them up? Then I'd have big baggy pockets for my key fob remote! I tried the valet thing and that may be good for me. Although I may have to check if the alarm light is an LED, if not change it to one since it flashes continuously except when the engine is running. I'm not worried about battery drain, but the bulb to burn out. I've never had any car parts stolen either, or loose lug nuts. Either you all are paranoid or I'm too easy going.

I have never had the need for an alarm. I have locked the doors in previous cars without an alarm and I've never had one broken into. I just find it a nuisance. Not to mention that when my alarm sounded, people just went about their business, some with friendly smiles as if they have been in the same situation. I doubt very much if a cop was passing at the time that they would have stopped. I will try that valet mode and see if it stays non activated when I use the lock door switch.

Thanks Rooster but my main goal here is to completely disable the alarm for at least as long as I own the car which I hope to be a long time. Besides it sounds like a whole different setup. To turn this alarm off it takes 3 cycles of the ignition switch, and I did at another time have my battery disconnected and when I connected it again the alarm didn't go off (or "on"). In fact, Subaru didn't even give me a rear hatch lock to put a key into. I'm seriously thinking of removing the license plate, drilling a hole and leading a wire or cable tie out so when I pull on it, it will unlock. Sure someone might figure it out, but it's very seldom I even lock the car so I'll take a chance. If it was cheap enough to get a lock like on the front doors that takes the same key, I'd put a working lock on the rear hatch. But I doubt it would be cheap. Hmm, unless I get one from a junkyard and pull or grind enough tumbler pins just so a screwdriver doesn't open it but my key does. And no I do not have the key code.

Still looking for a way to do away with the alarm completely.

My Dad used to fix TV's on the side. Someone else's TV was the first color one we had, same with remote control. The remote had an ultrasonic ... don't know what it's called. Like a little aluminum speaker. Then of course in the TV was a receiver for the different commands, and a motor to turn the tuner (clunkity clunk). It seemed to have a mind of it's own and would turn on and off all by itself. It had never done that at the owners house, this was a new problem. I was pretty young, maybe around 8 or 9? I found and fixed the problem. It was the wheels on the vacuum cleaner with a very high pitch squeak, probably some of it ultra sonic. I oiled the wheels and it never did it again. Funny, I can still picture the end of the remote with the aluminum "speaker" and a metal grill in front of it. Broken and taped up. I took it apart and taped it up much better. LOL. Oh I left out, that's when they were called a "TV Set".

This is what I just bought and used. All quality parts, nothing from china. (Japan = Good) https://www.partsgeek.com/ss/?i=1&ssq=TKF-001&x=20&y=7 Double check that kit for your car. I have a gates kit here that came with the car and everything is from china, plus it's the wrong kit for my car.

Yes I did use the key to get in, that's what set off the alarm. I didn't know about cycling the key off and on 3 times, that would have been great to know yesterday! Yes there is a panic button on the fob, I tried it once at home. It's the same as the "arm" button. I think I just held it in for a second or two. Anyway I didn't have the fob with me yesterday.

2004 Forester. Had some real fun today with the alarm going off and not knowing how to stop it. I didn't have the key fob, it only came with one and I don't really care much for an alarm. Does hitting the door lock button twice (I think I did) arm the alarm? Will hitting the door lock button once just lock all the doors including the rear hatch, without arming the alarm? What if I accidentally hit it twice, can I hit the unlock then lock once again only lock the doors and hatch? I found an old thread about disconnecting the entire alarm by simply unplugging it. Will that work on a 2004? Or will I need to connect a jumper to allow me to start the car?

"Actually they did and still do. Car radios have always had a pre-amp in them. Fractal antenna's are a lot more complex than just repeating patterns, I have built some for TV's. The ones I built for TV reception did not pick up LVHF but that was only because they weren't designed for that. LVHF requires larger elements than the ones I made, but for HVHF and UHF, they were fantastic and did not require a preamp as my more conventional antenna's had." Generally speaking, the closer the pre-amp is to the antenna, the better job it does. That's why Subaru put it about 6" from the window antenna, so it would work with the inferior antenna. Now if you have the old style antenna, then the pre-amp can be far from the antenna, even inside the radio, since the old style antenna gets a stronger signal. I forget where the FM band is. Is it between the tv channels 6 and 7? I remember back in the day you could tune in channel 6 TV on many FM radios and some radio stations you could get with old TV's that had fine tuning after turning the clunkity clunk tuner. Anyway FM is in or close to Low VHF, requiring larger antenna. Especially down at 88.5 where my favorite station is.

I was going out of town today to where I knew I'd loose my favorite station. When it got fairly bad I stopped and checked the connectors which are OK. Then I clipped a ~ 18" aligigator test lead on the antenna at the plug and moved it around. I left it clipped on going almost straight forward and that station came in for another ~ 10 miles till I got to the point where any of my vehicles would loose that station. I'll have to see how it does around town where I'm closer to station but it fades out.

Here are pictures of fractal antennas. To be a fractal they must have repeating patterns in different sizes, in antenna normally geometric shapes. Like these:https://www.google.com/search?q=images+of+fractal+antenna&client=firefox-b-1-ab&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=x1N3U4lVqI-Q2M%253A%252C4QvV4zP0TC9KMM%252C_&usg=__sj2m8ZCHSBk0x6OQFKQCJG4tdQE%3D&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiD-ZaMusLZAhUB2IMKHfi7B1UQ9QEIKzAA#imgrc=x1N3U4lVqI-Q2M: That's a far cry from what is on my window. Besides, fractal antenna are indeed good for higher frequencies like cell phones, not nearly as good for low frequencies as used for FM radio, more like just passable for those who like to jump on the "look no antenna" bandwagon. Those little shark fin type antenna are probably fractal inside, great for high frequencies like XM satellite radio and GPS signals. Not to mention that if these window ones worked so great for FM, why do they need an amplifier? The old steel rod doesn't need one. There is nothing wrong with my stupid window antenna, it simply does not work as well as the good ole steel rod type.

Installed the Aisin kit yesterday, easier than I thought! With the old belt, the one cam looked like it may have slipped 1 notch, so of course, me being me, I'm hoping for it to run with awesome power now (didn't get out of the driveway yet). The old pulley with cogs was free wheeling with no grease and had a good bit of noise to it, definitely dry, and one of the others wasn't far behind. I could tell the cover had been off before but I question if the timing belt was changed. Oh, and the old parts looked to be most all the same brand as in my new Aisin kit. Aisin water pump, everything was Japanese, no China crap. The heater hose on the pump had that awful sound of breaking strings/fibers inside when I twisted it off and looked original so I found one for another car that was close enough, cut to fit and a tiny little twist did the trick. Does the crank pulley/balancer normally slide right off? I was expecting it to be a real pain like others I've pulled with a puller and struggled to put on again (interference fit).

What? Did you install that antenna? Definitely wider traces and different pattern than mine. If I was able to go back and change the name of this thread it would be: "Window antenna not as good as an old fashioned one" It's not awful ... on stronger stations, just on my favorite station. Maybe I'll buy a steel rod one and hook it up to the amp and see what happens?

Good I did a search. Yesterday I did my timing belt (much easier than expected) and found the same thing with the belt marks not staying lined up.

No tint.

Yes I drive a 1 ton cargo van. I can hear that rear differential slightly when on the throttle, but it's been doing it since new. And well it's a truck so it's going to make a little noise. The sound in the Forester isn't nearly as high pitch. May have time tomorrow to rotate the tires and see if it moves up front. If not, I'm guessing 1 or 2 wheel bearings, but it's not bad enough to worry about. I only asked about it to see if this noise is normal or not, it's not nearly loud enough to really worry about.

I knew I shouldn't have used the word "assume"!

Oh, that makes sense. I'm new to this all as I'm sure you can tell. I've never heard of an engine with a bypass for and oil cooler (I'm assuming that's a transmission oil cooler."

OK if I can ask without sounding too stupid, what is an "EJ25"?

OK ordered! I hope it fits. The belt in the Gates kit that was in the car when I bought it is the wrong one. It has 280 teeth. I believe the belt in the kit I ordered has 223 teeth. It just boggles my mind that something like this would be different depending on whether the tranny is auto or standard. That is why I've been asking so many questions. OK, ordered! One website lists both as if they are different

All I know is that all my other vehicles pick up a certain station much better than the Forester does.