FlyB0y

@ Subaru Scott: I do, it's a cheap one, but it will at least give me an idea, here is what I have found so far, with the engine warm: 1 = 170 2 = 170 3 = 175 4 = 186 So far I am learning to use the newer scanner, but so far it is indicating possibly an 02 sensor, EGR and one other ... have to look at the directions.

Yes, I will do that next, wish me luck! When it first fired up it backfired pretty fierce, hopefully I am just missing a hose or something else simple. IACV? Not sure what that is, but I did have the "air box" or what ever you call it coming off of the throttle body so I could see the torque converter to hold the crank still when tightening/loosening cam/crank bolts. I will double check it, but I am pretty sure I have all the hoses re-attached. Really hope it is just something that simple, or maybe the EGR valve that coded before. I have rented a better code machine this time around with an instruction booklet, and the bottom radiator hose decided to go bad (it had a new radiator put in recently, but it appears they didn't replace the hose?! lol!)

Well, it runs .... really rough and won't idle . Back to the code reader I guess! Hope this doesn't mean I had some slight damage when the belt shredded after all!

Yep! I understand, got everything back together! Just filling the coolant (need to get more ... only ordered 1 Gal for some reason doh! LOL!!)

Yes, when I first got it, I did the 3x over several minutes to purge the air, now I am just bolting it on with the pin in-place, haven't needed to release it yet. I have the time, so I am being super cautious and taking my time, making sure I tripple check things so I don't have to do this stuff again anytime soon!

Ok, sorry about my confusion, got it figured out! Just the o-ring is on the back, and the main cam seal is on the front! I am getting REALLY good at putting that hydraulic tensoner in and out lol!! I am really excited to get the car back on the road!

Ok, I am maybe seeing the wrong generation of EJ 22 in this video then? I see it's SOHC Phase one, does that mean mine is a different generation? Because in Miles Fox's video he shows the passenger side crank seal being between firewall and backside of cylinder head. Here is the video, fast forward to 7:50: Hmmm I cannot seem to link the youtube video ... it's on Miles Fox's channel, under "Subaru EJ22 Cam Seals (All EJ SOHC)"

Far as I can tell, it's ok, turns over smoothly, but I haven't done anything else to check, I will try a compression test. *keeping fingers crossed*

I have the front driver's side SOHC cam seal, replaced it last night, and it came in a set of 2 (one of each, o-ring and seal) just want to make sure these are the seals I need for the same one on the rear of the passenger's side rear before I remove it. It looks like the rear oil leak I have might just be the cam seal!

Anyone have a good link/pic of the right side cam seal? I think I have it, on the back side of the passenger side, looks like a cap? Just hate to take something off if I don't already have the gasket. Thanks!

Kewl, I just want to make sure as I have no idea where there crankshaft is in relation to the cams, I don't want to bend a valve unintentionally! I think I have found a tooth count, but it is an earlier generation of motor: http://subaruvanagon.com/tom/Timing%20Belt.htm

Ahh ok, I was thinking that this can be 180 DEG off? Maybe I am wrong, I have found these marks just fine, thanks for the pic! So if I have all three marks aligned there isn't a possibility of it still being off?

I have been rotating the crank 2 revolutions now, and I cannot see any distinct marks at the back of any kind. Anyone have a photo or video of what the mark looks like? I don't need a mirror to see it in there do I? AT trans if that makes any difference. Thanks!

Oh, and does the Axle need to be removed to re-boot the CV?

Thanks all, since the motor has been turned over multiple times when I was trying to figure it out, I am gonna guess if there are bent valves, it's already been done, what is the best way to now get everything lined up? I'm guessing, TDC for cyl 1, and rotate the crank 90 DEG clockwise as said here? (Looks like an earlier model of EJ22 but maybe timing marks are the same?) http://subaruvanagon.com/tom/Timing%20Belt.htm

Hmmm how hard is it to re-boot an axle? Never tried that, seems it should be a simple thing, pretty sure it is a factory axle.

Good to know! Since I have everything apart, I think I will replace it this time around just so I know it's not going to have to be messed with again until another 60k miles. Anyone else having trouble seeing the pics I linked? I will try again on the pics, I am using google to host them, needless to say, I have NEVER seen a belt of any kind that was so weather-checked, and when I opened the cover, sheared teeth from the belt spilled out! I would estimate 30%+ of the teeth sheared from the old belt! I just hope nothing was damaged as this is a '98, so it is an interference engine. Given the extremely poor shape of the belt, I am hoping that it gave way before a valve was bent. I guess worst case, I will just get an education on fixing that sort of problem, it appears I might have a head gasket leak (not just the cover, but the actual head) on the passenger side, it also needs a new boot/CV joint on that side, I see they still have the exhaust close to to the passenger side CV, anyone recommend a good aftermarket CV axle? Or would you recommend I bite the bullet for a factory one? No idea how many miles that boot has been open, so I am going to assume the joint is on it's way out.

Ok, is THIS normal wear for a T-belt that has been on there about 93K or so? Looking at it, I wonder how it ran at all! Or maybe it never did get changed? I am sooooo lucky it didn't decide to let go on I-205 N last Friday with all the Memorial Day week-end traffic! https://photos.google.com/album/AF1QipMqZgn-k2PjxGGkxmfCn2aZRVEWSI4lJZmZmZk-/photo/AF1QipMc8O0EP7XQ_iicmBvx2bFJF9rGyKdreG0oB3aN https://photos.google.com/album/AF1QipMqZgn-k2PjxGGkxmfCn2aZRVEWSI4lJZmZmZk-/photo/AF1QipOZT6e4pGkJq1WjZxRZINXR6zS4yWQQm6tWKMuO https://photos.google.com/album/AF1QipMqZgn-k2PjxGGkxmfCn2aZRVEWSI4lJZmZmZk-/photo/AF1QipOjMZeu2XaEotCv27AR8y7tIXlD-HL9YoQnHpbZ https://photos.google.com/album/AF1QipMqZgn-k2PjxGGkxmfCn2aZRVEWSI4lJZmZmZk-/photo/AF1QipNM1v_aqiLxQ88seCHQY_tKyRQGgbHC-PjeDSOP https://photos.google.com/album/AF1QipMqZgn-k2PjxGGkxmfCn2aZRVEWSI4lJZmZmZk-/photo/AF1QipN3hKUNbaResU9IwYB7heqColhW566A3CfVbEQ9 https://photos.google.com/album/AF1QipMqZgn-k2PjxGGkxmfCn2aZRVEWSI4lJZmZmZk-/photo/AF1QipOWj8d90C1IymvHwGD_3VwE_9gt7QFIwzS1gq93

I hear ya, in my case, it's no big deal, and I get peace of mind knowing it's done. Woo Hoo!! Got my parts in a day early! Gotta love Amazon! Got the T-belt Kit, and now I can get started!

Yeah, I have no problem doing any and all service that makes sense while I am replacing the T-belt, so is it good to let things go 100k miles between T-belts, or replace every 60k as I see in my manual? I don't know that I will have this car beyond 300k miles.

Great, thanks for all the advice! I will know more tomorrow when parts come in, how does one generally judge the life of the water-pump? Is it like others where if it needed replacement it will start to leak a small amount? I plan on replacing it this time just because of 193K miles and not knowing when it was last replaced (and it came with the kit for replacing the seals and timing belt). I can't wait to have it back on the road, so far it has been much easier than I expected coming from the older EA 81 motor I had on my Brat, there seems to be much less difficulty with the newer motors than I expected.

Good to know thanks! I will have most of the stuff I need to replace the T-belt and common seals inc water pump, should I get the code reader back and try using it some more before performing the T-belt replacement? I can probably find instructions on it online. I also wanted your opinion on how to best remove the flywheel, I have seen in a video where someone put a breaker bar on the 22mm nut and then turned the engine over to loosen it, but then I will need an effective way to hold it when I put it back on, I have heard of either using a special clamp for holding the flywheel, or a screwdriver in a timing cover towards the back of the engine? I'm pretty sure I could once again rent a special tool to hold the flywheel from Autozone. The screwdriver method makes me nervous.

Kewl, I will have the timing belt and all the seals Wednesday, so I am thinking I will just start removing the fans and such to prepare for that, are either the EGR or knock sensors something that would prevent a good DEQ test? It's good until 2018, I didn't get an instruction manual with the tester, I can get it back, didn't seem to "clear" when I messed with it (I returned it today thinking I had a pretty slam-dunk indication that the timing belt had slipped a tooth or something) but it did upon attempting to start the engine, add in the P0325 (knock sensor) a second time on top of the other four once. I also know that the previous owner had a CEL that wouldn't clear, but he didn't know what it was, probably assumed that it wasn't critical since it passed DEQ? Wouldn't a CEL automatically fail DEQ? Must have passed before the CEL started. He is a car guy though, works at a business restoring classic T-bird parts (The Bird Nest in West Linn) so I would think he would have known to run a OBD check.

Ok! I got it to throw 4 codes, it says: PO325 PO400 1 of 4 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Bank 1 2 of 4 Crank shaft Position Sensor A Circuit Range / Performance 3 of 4 Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Bank 1 or Single Sensor 4 of 4 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow So, if I am not mistaken, the crank and cam shaft sensors might be indicating that the timing belt and or tensioners are warn enough that it slipped a tooth, thus stopping the engine from running? It has passed smog, so I guess that the other two sensors might not be necessary to replace?

Thanks! Been a LONG time since I worked on a car, been driving a Saturn Vue that has been pretty much trouble free for the last 10 yrs, so I am a bit out of practice. Always wanted to get into the EJ22 game! Should I be able to get a MAF locally or just Ebay/Amazon my best bet? There used to be a good import auto parts store on McLoughlin not far from me, even had parts in stock for my '85 brat some years back! Hopefully they are still around, kinda of nervous getting too much stuff on Amazon or anywhere online, as I cannot easily return/exchange it if/when they give me the wrong parts. Amazon does seem to have a system in place to try and properly identify parts by vehicle however. Heading out soon to get that scanner & spark-plug socket.