FlyB0y

Even if they don't have ones specifically for your make and model, just see if you can get some that are about the same length. IDK about your 92, but for my brat I just used a toyota stud that was the same length (about) anyway, I am sure any good parts guy at most any shop should be able to match those measurements.

If your a carb man, it's really no problem to rebuild. Just keep track of all the little pieces, clean it right (boil it out don't just squirt some canned carb cleaner spray!) check all the little passages with a torch tip cleaner or at least some kind of spray cleaner & blow out with compressed air. There are several people who do fine with the Hitachi, I personally could do with out it's complexity compared to the much simpler Weber, not to mention the ease of obtaining parts for the latter. I gained piece of mind, horsepower AND fuel economy by converting to the Weber when my Hi-tossy started going south. You can find them in most junkyards, somewhere there is a list of many different vehicles you might find with them, then it's just an adapter plate and maybe a kit, usually all told I no more than $100 - $150. New more like $200-$300. I say rebuild the Hi-tossy since you have the kit and drive it for now, if it gives you trouble, don't be afraid of the Weber. As for the PUG's, the main thing is you gain a greater variety of tires available in the 14" and a little space in the fender area. You can get tires that will be stock hight in a 14" so no need to lift (but it would be the PERFECT excuse to put a mild 3" lift, just don't tell the little lady you can fit 14's stock ). Welcome out of the shadows!

NICE!! I actually do like the "armor plate" look, does that mean I should see someone about that? :-p More than anything, I want to do something different, everyone's seen camo ... :YAWN:

ROFLOL!!! :headbang: Awww c'mon now, your tempting my redneck instincts to take over and make me a "reel look'r" zzz And if you look at the title of the link I posted, it actually says "Modern Art in Camo". I'm torn between a more interesting camo scheme (Swedish M90 style camo like the snow camo pic of the Skiing Star's Lambo) and something just fun and unique like the Dazzel. However, the dazzel will definatly be more work, and higher maintenence ....

Yes indeed, the main reason for my snorkel is because I wanted dust protection, not only for the week-end drive but I lived where there were as many gravel roads as paved. Also don't forget the all important off switch for your radiator fans. If your going to cross into deep water it's not going to be good to hear a water warped fan blade chewing through the radiator! Come to think of it, I have yet to finish waterproofing the rear diff, disty, trany dip-stick, engine dip-stick and oil fill cap. As you can tell, water crossings aren't really high on my list. I'm more concerned on having some preparation done for if it becomes necessary. Oh, and if your wanting that "Factory" look coming out the side of the fender with a non-PVC/ABS look, plan on spending about $100+ just for the top and elbow unless you get really lucky on a used pair. The only reason mine comes out of the hood is because there is less fender room on my brat, I didn't want something else to catch on branches, AND I had a spare hood in-case I didn't like how this snorkel turned out. There's another $ 0.02 for you.

I doubt seriously they make them FOR any of the older models, but if you look really close, you can get their design down pretty easy. And if your really set on the Safari Snorkel look, just buy the top piece and make the rest from either exhaust pipe or go cheap like me and use ABS plastic. The only real "secret" IMO is how they made a gap between the walls of the top "snorkel" piece and the pipe that goes into your hood, keeping excess rain from being funneled directly in. Just my $.02 ........

Well I finally found the problem, I had a bolt in backwards (had it bolt head up instead of bolt head down) and this bolt sticking out between the shift linkage and trans rod was digging into the side of the lower rod, thus making both 4th and reverse hard to put into gear. I only noticed it because I started to see a nice new gouge on the freshly painted shift linkage rod. At least now I know it's not something else going on.

That sounds very interesting. Care to post an example of said camo from the net?

LOL!! yes, if fact I believe there was A LOT of :drunk:going around when some of these camo schemes were first made .. they just had to come up with a name for why it was painted all those different colors.

I am surprised at how few people have voted, gonna be interesting to see where it's at when more ppl vote.

Good points GD, and I would like to say that this is by no means "functional" camo, it's come to the fact that I really DON'T want functional camo that would be hard to find after a long day hunting, but I just wanted to do something different for looks and as a quick dirty CHEAP paint-job that I plan on touching up from time to time just to keep the rust down. On annother note, the idea behind the original concepts for making WWI ships a litteral "eyesore" (to cause eye strain and disorientation to the observer) never really worked. :-\ Here are some of the more wild and crazy ones that although didn't dazzel U-boat comanders, probably DID hurt their taste to look at (maybe they could cause sea-sickness!! BONUS!!) Here's the link to the site: http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.found-nyc.com/blog/wp-content/gallery/images/razzledazzle_00.jpg&imgrefurl=http://found-nyc.com/blog/2009/04/04/a-look-at-modernist-art-in-camouflage/&usg=__Q5NckZwY0EK8ESaSWeKZdxuntwk=&h=363&w=475&sz=66&hl=en&start=1&sig2=EUvu4zqeTXDG7kogjBBQHA&tbnid=7CZo6bwQWXFgrM:&tbnh=99&tbnw=129&prev=/images%3Fq%3DDazzel%2Bcamo%2Bmodern%2Bart%2Bin%2Bcamo%26gbv%3D2%26hl%3Den%26safe%3Doff%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-US:official%26sa%3DG&ei=vRFUSq7HLd7MlQfCzKniDg And here are some of the more bazzar "dazzle-flague" ships. :Flame::Flame: Fortunatly (for fellow drivers :-p ) the ship's camo that I am modeling after is actually a hybrid between the true naval camo used on modern-day warships and very tame optical illusion. I am just hoping to make something that is different, and yes, this is "Gucci-flauge" not true camo.

Heya thx for the input, I was kinda torn myself between the first and the last scheme, I am trying to duplicate that subtle 3D effect the ship has with-out making a carbon copy of it. I'm also thinking about making a stencil of a natural style lightning bolt on the hood to put over-top the camo scheme, my emphasis is on cheap easy and easy to touch-up. Hadn't really thought able the trim/bumpers/roll-bar too much, I need to repaint them as well, so I might use the camo on the bumpers, not sure on the roll-bar, I'd kinda like to make a rack of sorts that extends out from the top of the bar that I can make some kind of retractable cover (canvas is preferred). Another camo scheme I really like is Swedish Army Snow Camo.

LOL!! Good one :-p Reminds me of the local mechanic in Stevi who wanted to get his off-road justy to float well enough to cross small lake como by filling all the body panels with spray foam. zzz I'd like to go back and visit with him again and see how far he got in that product.

Heya all! I have been threatening to do a camo paint job for some time now, and I finally found one I like. It's a variation of the crazy sort of camo they tried out on WWI then WWII called "Dazzel" or "Razzel Dazzel". The idea was to make it difficult for a Submarine crew to get a good visual lock on the direction a ship was traveling, so they couldn't target it acuritly. (i.e. optical illusions, breaking up the shape, but unlike modern camo, not designed to hide the ship it's self) Anyhow, I just like how it looks and it's not going to be a run-of-the-mill camo job. I have an example that I am trying to recreate from a picture of a ship from WWII, and I want your oppinion on how well I am capturing this design. All thoughts and critiques welcome! I just wana bounce the idea on you all. Here is the design I am trying to capture: Here's my best attempt yet, I still think it's missing something on the front portion, and the back looks too busy, what do you think? Here are my other 2 tries, both of them seem to "busy" to me: And: (sorry can't get this one to post full size for some reason )

Well, the wires are definitely not an issue, I have tons of clearance, and no wires near the linkage. If anyone has anything else to clue me in on why I might have difficultly getting into just 4th and reverse. It seems to drive just fine, went on a good 40 min. one-way trip to my brother's house in Newberg now the hills on 99W are easily conquered while staying in 5th (no more slipp whoo-hoo!) it stills bogs a bit if I don't have a good running start, but before I would have to drop to 4th AND floor it even if I had a good start to keep from slipping.

I don't know about the pulley/idler, but if it's just a lifter, i.e. TOD (tick of death ... with a subies most people refer to it as TOD as kind of a joke) I would take back-roads just to be safe, until your able to go over the engine. I don't have TOD on my brat, but I understand that is a lot of subies on this board that are regularly driven with TOD, and they are still on the road.

I feel your pain, 88glfan, sadly I don't have the equipment to help you out. I live in Oregon City, but I would suggest if you do end up getting it towed, be very careful that they don't damage it in transit. I got seriously burned when I had my front strut top fail, and then I made the mistake of letting the tow truck driver hook-up to the strut to secure it to the flatbed. (I didn't like this idea, but I thought I better let him do his job. When we got home, the pressure he put on the already blown strut by ratcheting it down, pulled apart the new ft CV axle. I know this wasn't an issue from the strut top failure, because it happened literally 10 sec after I pulled out of a parking-lot onto a busy street, and I stopped immediately when I heard the tire stuffing into the wheel well. The driver was very apologetic and owned his mistake and took pictures, and assured me that they would do something about the damage, so I made the mistake of paying him. Long story short his supervisor talked about coming over to see the damage and put me off then finally refused to even look at it. Hope everything works out for ya.

Hmmm, that is a good thing to check, hadn't though about that, could very well be my issue too. I am still having difficulty with 4th and reverse, I gave the cable as much slack as I could, and it still seems tight, but thank you for the tip, I will take a look.

Well, I think I may have regenerated a braincell or 2 over-night, looks like the linkage was binding, I have a "custom" 2-piece bracket that holds the linkage in the right spot (where the plate has the pivot for the stick shift and this 2-piece place has a rubber cushion that normally holds them together) Looks like 4th and reverse have the most trouble binding. Now I can get it into all gears, but 4th and reverse are still a real pain.

Right on! Sounds like your on your way to getting that fixed, funny how one problem always leads to another, I swear it's like they multiply, kinda like when you think there's a rabbit or two around and next thing you're trying not to step on them! Wow! Your friend's Uncle is amazing ... does he need an adopted nephew?!! That's really funny about the nice rifle with the crap scope! You always want to do it the other way around, pay more for the scope as I'm sure you know, but my first deer hunt I had some old-timers teaching me, and they thought the only rifle to use HAD to have a bolt. They didn't like my .308 Saiga (Russian Sporterised AK action). I had just got out of the Air Force and I got it new by trading my Kimber .45 pistol. It's a "Evil Black Gun" :headbang:and isn't far from it's military roots, it's a Klasnikov action, but it's really tightened up! I regularly shoot sub MOA groups with it. :cool: But since it wasn't a bolt gun, they kept giving me crap about how less accurite it was going to be since it's a semi-auto, UNTILL everything I shot was a one-hit drop, buck at 220 yrds, doe at 180. And those poor guys had the worst luck! One's scope started going south (me thinks he had the "bargan scope" syndrome :-p ) and it would hit a target pretty decient then be off several inches another. I was also getting crap for the fixed 6X military scope it came with, they were telling me my limited field of view was going to make it too hard to find the game, and my sight picture would be too shakey. Well, the one with scope problems only managed to wound a doe at about 150yds (that really sucked, he was really upset that he had just hurt her instead of put her down humanely) and the other had to hit his buck 3-4 times b4 he dropped. Needless to say, I got the nick-name "Dead-eye Dayn" and NO ONE gave me crap about not having a bolt gun anymore! Oh and btw, my CZ? check it out: http://www.snipercentral.com/cz527.htm Hammer forged barrel, HS Precision Kevlar Synthetic Stock w/Aluminum bedding block, average trigger but it has a set trigger that is like budda! smooth and about 10 oz pull I'm guessing, so you only use it when your just about to shoot anyway, so no real safety issue unless your an idiot and carry it like that with a round in the chamber. If my Uncle gave me a sweet rifle for free with the "bargain" scope, I'd just spend a little cash on a deceint Burris or Leupold. I have a very nice Burris Varmint 6-18X scope with up to 500yrds then Infinite range settings. Got it used at the same place I bought the Saiga and I got full credit of the value of the Saiga against the price of some Swaravski Binoculars New. Man I miss that place, Missoula Mercantile and Pawn (Axeman South) just also happends to be the largest Gun store in Montana! Sorry for the hi-jack he he I am gearing up to hunt 'yotes and I am chomping at the bit to get my brat going so I can. P.S. how big was the wild hog you got? Good eating?

Very Nice!!! :slobber: Great job on the camo! I had a similar idea on the bed-liner being on the side, just I have it only to the trim line on my Brat. I'm just beginning to tackle the rust on mine, and your aren't joking! It's a lot of work zzz, I am just getting to the stage where I will have to look at cutting out the worst parts and having better stuff welded in. Hopefully my paint job will turn out as well as yours.

LOL yeah, but that takes more braincells! Ok, it's a 85 brat EA 81 with the 5spd D/R tranny from an EA82 car. I'm probably going to find out it's just something stupid like having to have the cable extra tight during the break-in of the clutch? Or maybe when I had the tranny out I some-how changed the linkage putting it back in? This is my first time solo doing a clutch in any vehicle so don't discount the possible bone-head things I could have missed. :-p

Yeah I hear ya! I put 3 weeks worth of work into my Brat and the thanks I get is not wanting to go into reverse! (I guess we now know the REAL reason they're called "Brats" ) I am a carb man too, and I think you have the right idea getting the kit and boiling it out. I think what your experiencing is more junk coming from the tank, idk how easy it is to clean and coat it, but maybe you might look at that option, or maybe someone makes an inexpensive OEM replacement tank? I used to clean and coat the insides of motorcycle tanks, but idk if that is available/practical for an automotive tank. Anyhow, good luck and I'm envious of your hunting wild hogs. I would love to be able to do that here in Oregon, but I hear there aren't too many left, and most of them are pretty far east? Once I get my clutch working right, I'm going to sight in my CZ Varmint Kevlar (.223) and test some hand-loads, and go find some trouble coyotes to thin out. Lotta people not too far from me are losing their pets left and right to them.

Ok, I have done too much in 3 weeks for me I guess. zzz I replaced the clutch, rear struts, and the ignition switch in my 85 Brat. My last braincell burned out after realizing that my Chilton manual screwed me up telling me I had to drill out the bolts holding in the ignition switch, then I had to figure out how to get into that lovely "large" space to install new bolts from inside the tilt-wheel housing. Now, I finally have everything done, and notice that the clutch feels REALLY soft (like it's not engaging at all). I went ahead and tightened up the clutch cable (got a new one of those too) and now I have had to make it so I have zero play in the cable, and I can just get it into all the gears, however reverse is nearly impossible. I'm sure there is something really simple I am missing, but like I said, I burned out my last braincell, so I need to borrow yours! Oh and happy fourth! (insert fireworks icon here) Thanks in advanced! P.S. I had the flywheel turned, and did the "XT6 clutch upgrade" don't know if this might have anything to do with the problem ...

Well, as some may have guessed already, the JB isn't the best to hold the threads, but I think it should do until I can get the BIGGER problem resolved. Being back in Oregon, I am reminded how muck more quickly things rust than in MT. Going to have new pieces of strut mount/bed side fender welded. On the right side pic you can see 2 1/2" holes that opened up just from a few passes with a 2" wire brush. Might have to put a nut on the JW welded side to keep things strong for now. Hopefully I can make it about a year before this causes real trouble. For now I am using POR 15 to halt the rust.