FlyB0y

Yeah I hear ya! I put 3 weeks worth of work into my Brat and the thanks I get is not wanting to go into reverse! (I guess we now know the REAL reason they're called "Brats" ) I am a carb man too, and I think you have the right idea getting the kit and boiling it out. I think what your experiencing is more junk coming from the tank, idk how easy it is to clean and coat it, but maybe you might look at that option, or maybe someone makes an inexpensive OEM replacement tank? I used to clean and coat the insides of motorcycle tanks, but idk if that is available/practical for an automotive tank. Anyhow, good luck and I'm envious of your hunting wild hogs. I would love to be able to do that here in Oregon, but I hear there aren't too many left, and most of them are pretty far east? Once I get my clutch working right, I'm going to sight in my CZ Varmint Kevlar (.223) and test some hand-loads, and go find some trouble coyotes to thin out. Lotta people not too far from me are losing their pets left and right to them.

Ok, I have done too much in 3 weeks for me I guess. zzz I replaced the clutch, rear struts, and the ignition switch in my 85 Brat. My last braincell burned out after realizing that my Chilton manual screwed me up telling me I had to drill out the bolts holding in the ignition switch, then I had to figure out how to get into that lovely "large" space to install new bolts from inside the tilt-wheel housing. Now, I finally have everything done, and notice that the clutch feels REALLY soft (like it's not engaging at all). I went ahead and tightened up the clutch cable (got a new one of those too) and now I have had to make it so I have zero play in the cable, and I can just get it into all the gears, however reverse is nearly impossible. I'm sure there is something really simple I am missing, but like I said, I burned out my last braincell, so I need to borrow yours! Oh and happy fourth! (insert fireworks icon here) Thanks in advanced! P.S. I had the flywheel turned, and did the "XT6 clutch upgrade" don't know if this might have anything to do with the problem ...

Well, as some may have guessed already, the JB isn't the best to hold the threads, but I think it should do until I can get the BIGGER problem resolved. Being back in Oregon, I am reminded how muck more quickly things rust than in MT. Going to have new pieces of strut mount/bed side fender welded. On the right side pic you can see 2 1/2" holes that opened up just from a few passes with a 2" wire brush. Might have to put a nut on the JW welded side to keep things strong for now. Hopefully I can make it about a year before this causes real trouble. For now I am using POR 15 to halt the rust.

Well, the second side came out much better. Got a nice straight hole through the second bolt and saved the threads. Now that I know I was wrong on the angle of the first bolt, I guess I will fill with JB weld and drill the right angle this time .. DOH!zzz

Great advice! Thanks! I had already started doing what Gary recommended with a dewalt bit and it worked great 2/3 of the way till I wasn't pushing straight and SNAP! Fortunately I have a multi-speed drill (old craftsman 3/8") that is perfect for going slow and steady, and yes your right on the oil, I drill only as long as nice long chips are falling and if I see/hear any sign things are going harder/getting hot I dip in the cutting oil, so every few seconds I get more oil on it. Oh well, I was thinking I might have to drill straight through anyway. I hope autozone has some of the colbalt/carbide bits, if not I have a home depot near me that I can get more of the dewalts. What do you think of drilling through into the bed and just tapping to the next size up? The captured nuts are really beefy, and if my drill holes are off too much, would it be a bad idea to just make a big enough hole in the sheet-metal of the bed to be able to get a socket on the back side and just put a nut in there? In-fact, I could put the bolt in from the bed side, have the nut on the tower side and worse comes to worse next time, just crack off the nut! zzz What do you think? Oh and P.S. my neighbor gave me an easyout of the bottom left variety like in that snapon set you posted, it hasn't broken, but I have put the hurt on it enough to see it flex! But like you say, if it's REALLY stuck in the first place an easyout isn't going to move it. Just wish me luck as I attempt to put a perfectly dead-center AND straight hole into the bolt with a hand drill (like that's going to happen) Also gonna switch to the big 1/2" hand drill once I go up to the 3/8"+ size bits.

:banghead::banghead: This pretty much describes the last TWO days trying to remove a broken 12mm bolt from the rear drivers side strut tower mount (where you bolt into the brat) I was having a hellova time just getting it to move, and when it did move it made that lovely popping sound, then suddenly sheared off flush with the inside of the rear fender. I bought Aero Kroil, CRC Freeze Off and have used a Nap Gas torch to heat the bolt, using the penatraiting oils to shock the bolt as well when it's really hot, and allowing the oil to soak in over-night. the bolt now has 5/16 hole down the middle, and I have pushed a easy-out(one of the WORST named tools known to man:drunk:) to the point of snapping trying to get it to move. I have removed 1/8th of the bolt piece by piece with chisle and hammer, no movement. I am currently drilling a 5/32 bit into the line where the bolt meets the captured threads in the unibody, and got about 1/2 way in and it caught and snapped before I could even curse! I think the bit will come out pretty easy, but at 9:50pm I had pushed my luck at getting neigbors angry (I'm working outside) and I will try again tomarrow. I'm hoping to finish the hole started with the 5/32 bit and this should take a chunk out of the bolt's 1/8" thick remains allowing me to crack the bolt with a chisel (I hope!) Anyone have any other suggestions should this plan fail? (I do have a 3/8" bit too, but I fear that my hole might not be aligned well enough not to risk a good portion of the threads if I'm off) Oh and hello again, hope to see you all at the WCSS (IF I can get this bolt out lol ... the other side looks like it has annother nightmare bolt in the making too!zzz) P.S. I could also drill on through the fender into the bed, and then I could drill from the opposite side, which would turn the bolt counterclockwise, possibly unscrewing it too. Just not sure how doable this is, and again I suspect the hole drilled isn't correctly aligned, in the middle but wrong angle.

Kewl, ty for the info and offers, I'm going to throw annother idea out there, would anyone in the portland area like to help me fix my car (i.e. all the physical labor) in exchange for a set of the pugs? Plz PM me if interested ty

****I am not sure if this is the best place to post this, so plz move it if needed mods**** Heya all, I've been pretty inactive the last year, but I am really sad that I will be missing such an amazing subaru show and I'm living really close too! I'm currently in Oregon City, OR (about 20min from portland) , and because of health problems, I am unable to get my new struts installed in my brat. I have 2 sets of Five (14") Pug wheels (one steel one mag) I would like to sell at least one set, to make a little cash, as I am yet not receiving any disability yet (claim with the VA still in the works) and I have not been employable for about 18 mons now. I can drive a car, but I can't do much in the way of physical work, i.e. replacing liftbocks/struts, and I won't be able to borrow the folks' car for as long of a trip as going to the show, so I'm offering one set of wheels to anyone willing to come by my house if they would be good enough to bring the other set to sell for me at the show. If anyone wants pix I can email them, my Digi broke, and my parents Kodak Camera's pix aren't compatable with windows paint, or I would re-size and post here. Thanks for reading

Sweet! I don't live to far from that area, hopefully I can get my brat back together before all the snow is gone! That kinda reminds me of the time Nels and I went to painted rocks lake in MT. I'd love to try out my new tires on something like that at painted rocks I still had swampers and thus little power.

You know, I think I have the solution! Ultimatly, OEM isn't going to be available forever, and it looks like Jerry (Bratsrus1) has the solution! I just got off the phone with him a bit ago, and it looks like he solved annother problem with some EA81 lifts in general too. He has machined spacers that allow you to leave the strut in the original spot in the car, and then put an insert into the steering knuckle that just extends where the strut attaches to to the knuckle! Doing it this way he has been able to preserve the geometry and had NO problems with alignment mainly positive camber. Gonna get some of the KYB GR-2's and just wait a bit to get some of these made by Jerry and make the spacers taller to make up for the drop in hight of the KYB's.

Wow, sorry to hear about your justy I had a FWD '88 in red that FLEW! I flogged that little 3cyl pretty good too, and it never complained :cool: But maybe I just got lucky? Mine was also very low miles, 50k I think, and got at least 35 mpg even when I road it hard. I drove it to Montana from Washington State and kept it for about 2 yrs total, and would drive it on the hwy in Montana in excess of 70mph on a regular basis, I didn't do anything special, used half synth valvoline and just kept up on regular maintenance. Did you know they also have the fastest top speed for their class?:-p I know it sounds silly, but they actually do have the land speed record for their class, not sure where I found that info, but it just cracked me up that someone would even take a 3cyl car to bonnavile to see how fast they would go, and test their 1/4 mi. time

I want to keep the OME style adjustable struts for my '85 Brat, I have spent the entire day calling shops, looking up on USMB and the web, and so far I am:dead: Does anyone even MAKE an aftermarket strut that is adjustable anymore? I cannot find anyone that still sells the Monroe version, Autozone has an adjustable Gabriel, but they are listing the same part number for the EA81 and EA82, so Idk if I can trust that will even fit my brat. Most tell me that the strut has been discontinued. Most everyone seems to like the KYB GR-2, but with my lift, I have to use the adjustments on my struts to get reasonably good camber (it's still terribly positive, but it hasn't worn strangly or caused any serious handling problems) and I have a Mud Rat 3x3 lift, solid lift, no real problems, but all I see available right now is $120.00 OEM from Subaru and very few left in the US. I'm wondering if anyone else has had to go to the KYB GR-2's on a 3" front end lift for a genII brat (or other EA81 car) and used the KYB GR-2's. I'd really hate to get the wrong ones and lose what little adjustment I have to keep my tires from getting trashed on road. I realize ultimatly I need to make the Brat a week-end OHV and get something else as a DD, but untill I get well and get a better job that's not going to happen. If I am stuck with the OEM option, I will bite the bullet and pay the $120.00 ea, but if anyone knows of a shop/parts house that still has some of the old Monroe or other aftermarket brand that has adjustable ride hight (OEM style prefered, but if there are others that work Idm) please let me know! I also want to say thanks in advance, and sorry for being so out of it lately, haven't been well enough to do any wheeling the last few mons, and now fighting with the tow company that broke more of my Brat in the process of getting it home after the strut came appart from the top-hat, going to be annother mon or so before I am able to do much. (P.S. if anyone is able to contact Bryce (Madmountainmonk) I still have his 2 sets of 14" PUG's here in OR City, OR ready for him to pick-up plz pm me so I can give you a number to call me at)

All you need to know about this is steel wheels = hand drilled, and mag wheels = precision milled/jig drilled. I did my own the first time, and simply knocked out 2 of the stock studds, bolted up to the hub, and drilled the other 4 by eye-ball with a heavy duty drill, and a new 9/16 drill bit. Your really gonna need a HEAVY duty drill, if you use a standard drill your going to burn up the motor in most in a heart beat before you finish the first 2 hubs. I drilled the stock hubs to include the front discs and drum rears, however, I stayed safe and went with 14" wheels from a '87 2x4 nissian pu. I have 14" tires for the street that are the same exact outside diameter as stock with 13", and I use the ATV tires off road. I have used this set-up with no problems with wheels for close to 2 years now and my brat is my daily driver. Not all the holes are precise, even to the eye, and I had to use JB weld to get the wheel studs to hold well enough to for tightening, but you can just hold them still with your fingers on the back-side enough to tighten. You will just need to use a die or angle grinder on the back side of the hubs to make the surface flat for the wheel studs, but it's really just an afternoon job. You will definatly want to use a smaller drill bit to drill through the hubs first (I used the 9/16 bit to make the first divit into the metal for the 1/4" bit that I used as a pilot and LOTS of cutting oil to keep the bit cool) with a smaller bit, I used a 1/4" and if I had to do it over again, I would have taken the time to get a true 14mm drill bit so the studds fit tighter, but the 9/16" will work, just be sure to explain the situation to your local tire shop when they do work on it so they don't over-torque the studds, I prefer to hand tighten them personally. Just wanted to give my $ .02 I would say go for it! As long as people understand the risk, and are willing to use with out holding you responsible for their use of them, there should be no problem. Yes it is a risk, and yes lifting your soob is modifying the geometry, etc. etc. but it all comes down to what you understand about the calculated risk your taking. That said, I would DEFINATLY say convert to disc in the rear if your going over a 27" tire because any speed on the street with a over-loaded brake means potential danger of an over heated break failure. I know it has also been done and gotten away with, just more risk than I would take This is a pain to do yourself, and I think the offer is VERY reasonable, by all means try this if your inclined, I have NEVER had any balancing issues.

All good points, but like it was said before, it really comes down to you. If your going to make a dedicated 4x4, and want to go for the stars, the subaru isn't ever going to out-perform a solid axle where it shines. If your going to make a week-end 4x4, but otherwise daily driver, your going to hate yourself on the way to work each day in the sammy. I love my brat, but I can't do the rocks like a jeep, but at the same time, I love how I can fly over washboard and not need a kidney belt to keep from being in serious pain afterwords. I still plan on making my brat as off-road capable as possible, but not to the point of sacrificing my street handling. Once I trade out my LSD for a welded rear, I think that will be the end of my major mods on the brat drivetrain wise. I still might try getting a couple of inches of clearance up front with suspension, but the only other mods would be power to the engine and armoring the body, oh and on-board air with my AC compressor. If I had my choice, I think I would build a '85 4-runner for serious off-road, but I would still keep the brat as a daily driver/week-end stump jumper. But when it comes to serious trails, your not going to beat a nything a solid axle has with out spending just as much time and or money ($500 axles anyone? lol!) as using what's already available in a more capable rig. Just my $.02 your going to have to make the choice. :burnout:Oh and just to make it clear, I would NEVER trade my brat for a 4-runner, but if I could have both, I would

Thanks all for the info! I found one that fits here locally at the Clackamus Auto Parts, and the Napa across the street will have the other one ordered in today at 10:30. I really felt stupid when you mentioned Lithia GD, because I had noticed it the first time I came into town but didn't think about it since I am used to Missoula where everyone still drives older subarus, and you can get them at any parts store. the other problem I have run into is that my over-sized stud bolt isn't going to let the orginal gasket fit anyway, and all the other studs are now loose and now even the over-sized one too. I was going to try JB-Welding them in, but it's too high temp for that:dead: . Anyone have a suggestion for fixing this other than having a machine shop weld up and re-drill the holes?

Heya all, this post is for all you portland area guru's .. I'm having a hard time finding a simple header down pipe gasket (the stock gasket for a 2 bolt stock style header pipe, between the header and the exhause manifold) and I have found a few that can order one in a few days, but none so far that stock one. I live in Oregon City now with my parents (to help my dad's accident recovery) but I have no problem going anywhere in the greater portland area or even Vancouver WA if needed to find a good store who will get me the right gasket the first time. Thanks in advance! Dayn

You mean I can't take the back roads to Oregon?

Thanks for all the support! You probubly got me to Umatilla Oregon, where my trailer decided to take me off the road:dead: . I didn't realize that the new $95 tire on the driver's side of the trailer was rubbing against the side of the trailer (I had thought I smelled something hot but could never identify it). So just as I hit hwy 84, I heard this hissing sound that could only mean I was loosing air:rolleyes: . So, I went to work at 5:30 PM at finding a place to fix it, got a tube from a closing tire shop, broke the bead (pictures will follow once I get a chance to set up my own computer) installed it, only to hear the sickening sound of a pinched tube and had to get annother one. Bearly caught autozone before they closed installed the second tire and was back on the road at 9pm. sawsall: Ended up spending the night in a rest area since it was so late, got the last 200 miles done in the morning Saturday (Actually had left on Friday Morning, red tape with rental company). And I am living in Oregon City, near portland if your farmiliar with that, anyone up for a early after-noon run? Call me at (503)723-5698

Well, it's been great in Montana, but heading back to Oregon Tomarrow (hopefully .. my room mate isn't cooperating very well :-\) but anyhow, shutting off the comp now and finishing up boxing and cleaning. Soon to see some of you in Oregon! And Bryce I got your steel and mag pug sets being loading as I type! So, I might not respond again for a few days, but could use some prayers and good wishes as I make the trip, and hopefully I can go wheel'n with some of you all in OR & WA now!

Here's my own Red Neck Camping Trailer complete with aluminum siding and grandpa's old combine wheels! You can tell the age of the trailer like you can an old tree, but in this case it's the layers of paint over the rusting frame & wheels instead of rings!:-p I was going to try and clean up the frame and wheels but ran outta time. I just got done repacking the grease in the hubs. Definatly gonna have to add grease zirks (sp?) so I don't have to do it by hand anymore. But hey, I got the trailer free and it won't be bad to have when I do go camping.

:lol: zzz:Flame:

Kewl, ty for the info, just got done wiring in a relay on the ground side for both fans with a kill switch for that "some day" when I get my diff and tranny breathers routed up into the body/snorkle. The hot side for the left fan is still fused so I think I'm pretty safe. Gonna mark the kill switch as "Fan" and "Dive" modes.:-p

Ahhh hmmm, right now I temporaryly have a jumper from the old high beam wiring (my new "high beams" are the off-road lights with their own separate circuit) to the fan with a fuse. I guess I will have to see about getting a relay as well. Not really up on wiring, can you just put in the relay in series or do I need to make a separate circuit? I've not put in a new radiator yet (switched in a used one that seems to be better from an EA81T that I flushed with a kit) and that is on the list with new adjustable front struts. For now I have it set up so that the drivers side fan runs when the ignition is on, will that be safe for a temporary fix untill I get to Oregon in about a week?

Ok, I noticed this a while back but sorta put it out of my mind since I never had a true heat problem. My Passenger side fan comes on when ever the temp goes a little above the second mark (just over half-way) but when I was pushing the engine pretty hard this last week end, I had to stop and cool things down after going up some pretty steep and hard trails, and the driver's side fan never came on. Are the controlls for these fans the same or is there a separate heat sensor for each?