FlyB0y

There is a very simple way to drill your hubs for 6- lug .. but that is the easy part .. the hard part is grinding the metal down on the back side to make it flat. The real important part is to realize you cannot use mag wheels unless you have this done very presicely by a machininst. All I had to do was knock out 2 of the studs leaving 2 that are opposite each other, bolt on the 6 lug wheel and use this as the pattern for the 4 new holes, but this is not an easy project with just a hand drill. It took me about 6 - 8 hrs total of time to drill and then grind the back-sides of the hubs & rear drums. I used a 9/16 drill bit, and not all the studs fit snug after this, so I had to use JB weld to make them stop from spinning. You might try a 17/32 or 38/64 to keep the hole just a little smaller so you don't have the same trouble. Since doing this conversion, I have not had one problem, so I say go ahead. As long as you have the 2 factory luggs holding the wheel, it shouldn't be hard to drill the other 4 holes accuratly enough to keep things centered.

Kewl, ty for the info, I will have to try that .. I have a manual that shows removing the sun-roof & motor ... but I'm not really that worried about having a sun-roof ...

Heya Jamal! nice to meet ya ... maybe once I get it on the road and your in town we can hang-out ... So you work in LA? I'm originally from Portland OR, but a girl got me moved out to Msla, and only reciently I have been in Hamilton, trying hard to get moved closer to Msla ... all my friends and church family are there ... Nels (Free Range) is in Lolo too maybe we can all get together some time ... :cool:

Good call nipper, I think getting the ATF changed & new filter is a good investment, thanks for pointing out the fact that the turbo will mean it's worked extra hard, and has less longevity. Now if I can just find a good automatic antennae in the JY and figure out why the sun-roof doesn't always wana open/close (thank goodness they have a nifty lil way to manually close the roof with an allen wrench! I thought I was going to have to put a tarp over it :-p ) I will be doing great

The ATF looks good, but not sure how long it has been since it was changed, I know that ATF can go for 15,000 even in severe conditions, but I am not seeing any regular schedule for changing it yet in my owner's manual/warrenty book. I'm pretty sure it was changed in the last couple of years, but not how many miles it has been, gonna find that out from my friend soon. I was looking at the rear diff and noticed it's a 3.90 geared LSD (not that I am planning on 'wheeling it) so I guess it has the "good" low geared rear-end. I hope to make this my daily-driver/bussiness vehicle.

gotta up-date on the tranny ... I checked it b4, but not close enough :-p turns out the tranny was about 1 qt low, so I am going to full it up and hope this is the "mysterious" cause of not shifting fully untill warmed up (I checked it b4 at the cold mark doh!) don't think it was driven much at this lvl, so I am hoping it should be ok. Can't wait to try it cold with full tranny fluid P.S. one more question for you legacy owners .. my radio doesn't get very good AM reception, is this common with the 91's? I am replacing the broken anntannae, hope that might be the culprit.

Heya all! I just got my new to me '91 Legacy Sport Sedan (yes it's a turbo) and it's a nice looking car I will post some pics here soon ... I have some questions and concerns, but just excited about having annother Subie for the road, gonna make my brat a "bearly" street legal off-roader once I have the legacy on the road. First off, it has a quark with the automatic tranny .. untill it warms up, it doesn't get out of first ... it goes into reverse and everything, just doesn't want to shift up for about 5 min warming up. Also, I have been reading the owner's manual, and it has a "auto" shift mode. I have read the manual, but I still don't quite understand how the "manual shift" mode works. It also says it is "full-time 4wd" as opposed to Awd. What does this mean performance-wise? Is this truly 4wd or is it just an early Awd?

Whoa! 25 PSI on a tire that is rated at 5 right? hehe ... I have a question for ya too ... my mechanic is concerned that with the weight of a gen 2 brat, I will have a hard time with the beads holding because of the side load on anything harder than sand or mud? Also I understand thatin the 6-lug there are bead locking wheels available ... are atv tires compatable with bead-locking rims? thanks! .... Dayn

You know, I might just go with all "Front" tires ... they are perfectly sized for standard rims, and $10 cheaper hehe becides, I'm not going to mud-bog, just trails with a lil mud here and there ... and narrow might be better for on the brat

Good point, I definatly agree on the off-road only use of these tires .. and the particular ones I have seen in the store were front tires, so they were more like 7" wide, and I believe there are some in-between those sizes, so I will make sure the ones I get will work on my 6" wide nissan rims. As far as clearance goes, I believe I will be ok since I have my wheel wells open enough for even larger super swampers.

Oh Yeah! I just found them for $120 ea at a local motorcycle shop (AL's Cycle in Hamilton) with a wait of only 2 days! (vs 2 weeks from Les Schwab:dead:) Can't WAIT till I can afford these tires! Looks like the new trend in ATV is 14" rims to allow for street rubber for your ATV so I know for a fact (they had some street rubber on 14" ATV wheels at Schwab) that these will work on a standard rim Oh and when you look at the description of the 14" tires on the site they specificly state "thinner sidewalls of the 14" tire makes for more of a all-terrain tire with less flex than the 12 inch adding greater stability" so, these should be PERFECT for our purposes

http://www.itptires.com/mudlitextr.html W00t!! all I can say is ABOUT TIME!! :clap: Just when I was thinking of resorting to 15" back-hoe tires for a full time off-road tire, I happend to stop off at Les Schwab Tire and find this AMAZING new ATV tire that is not only RADIAL, but also comes in a 14"!!!! soon as I have the cash to buy the tires (and new axles ) I am going to have these on a seperate set of rims to put-on when I go 4wheel'n might be a while till I can do it as I have a ton of other things going on (starting a new business, and getting a more "streetable" subie on the road) I will definatly be paying the $300 (or less if I can find it on the net :-p) to Schwab/Tire Ramma for these 6-ply brutes! for all of you who stuck it out with 14" wheels here is your reward hehe (now if we can just get a streetable version too )

Well, first off, I am trying to remember which mounts I have, I have a '85 brat with a 5-spd dual range, and I need tranny mounts, do I need EA-81 or EA-82 mounts? Also, if anyone can tell me where to get some solid mounts? If not I will just get some OEM. Thanks!

Ok ... I am tired of the JY and rebuilt axles ... What's the toughest life-time axle out there? I'm willing to pay extra for something that will last longer plz post your favorite ultimate axle

Ok, I took the break drum off to check the pads, put it back on, and tightened the axle nut. About 30 - 40 mins later my friend calls me up and says something is wrong, I come to look and some-how the flat washer that sits on top of the outer bearing has rotated so that the finger is out of the key-way about 90 DEG and stuck hard. First off, I am at a loss as to how this could have happened, I was sure that the drum was seated all the way before I tightened the nut, and now I wana know if anyone thinks the bearings have any possiblity of having survived. It got hot enough to liquify the grease, and was driven about 10 - 15 miles. I tried to see if I could tighten the nut enough to force that washer to spin and line-up, no dice, and it seems that it might have started to strip the axle/axle nut. How is the best way to go about getting this off?

Well, it was still a bit dirty when I went to clean it thoroughly today, and the only thing that looked suspect was again the incredible deteriorating powervalve ... I think I will just order annother one of them and see if it makes a difference ... I can remember befor when I had some serious problems untill I replaced it the last time (my carb was idleing too high and dieseling alot ... got that fixed, didn't know at the time it was hard on the power valve :-p ) My power valve wasn't as bad as it has been in the past, but it was pretty fragle and crinkled up like a fallen leaf. Gonna see if that does it

Well, that old filter was pretty sad looking, I replaced it, and still no dice ... I'm just about 100% sure that it's just a bunch of debris in the secondaries, because if I'm stomping it through 1st & 2nd gear, no problems it's only when I get up to over 50 mph and I am in 3rd that it has to be feathered ... I just need to take it all apart and clean it thourghly but I did order a new front and back filter from the dealer to have the next time I need to replace it ... no one seems to know the right ones at the parts houses

Ok, ok I know ... bad pun but I really need to find some decient winter tires .. tired of my swampers slidding all over on ice ... I have a pic here of the general idea of the traction I need, aggressive, self-cleaning and a tire with an over-all size at or below 26" ... idealy a 195/75-14 (nothing bigger than205/74-14 ... ) bias or radial ... narrow is better ...or a smallish 15 would work too, just have to get some 6 lug 15's from the JY, no biggie ... these tires just HAVE to be smaller than 26.1" tall, I don't wana have the same problem of the lack of power I have with my swampers ... here's the pic:

Is this the one near the tank? I have never changed that one ...

Nice! I'll have to help you "make sure it works" with the welder :-p ... I have a new fuel filter somewhere behind the seat ... gonna run down the hwy and back with nothing on the carb in a few here ... and I checked the ditsy vac line it's on ... the plugs look pretty good, if anything like things are running a bit lean ... little more grey than the tan or chocolate of perfection ... could it still be the accl pump even tho I get a good stream of gas squirting?

Sorry I didn't get back sooner ... all great suggestions, and here is what I can say so far, when the throttle is pulled back, I do get a squirt of gas, and there is no choke, no choke tower even, I have run this way for 4 - 5 mon, no problems ... I did with-in the last 2 mon. put in a JY ditsy when mine started going out. I'm not noticing any erratic tach or anything, but I have yet to put in new plug wires ... plugs are only about 3 mons old. Also I think I can rule-out the snorkel, since I didn't have this problem initially and I have tried running it with just the hose leading to the filter and had the same results. I guess I could go a few miles on the hwy and back with-out anything on the carb, but I doubt that will make a differance. Maybe I will just get a good coil and new wires .. any suggestions for an after-market coil? MSD? I'd like to get the best bang for my buck, but I have no idea what a "good" one costs. Oh yeah ... I have a custom 2" free-flowing exhaust, so no cat to plug and I am pretty sure that the carb adjustments are good, I just re-set them starting with the base-line settings, and I have the air jets sizes 160 and 175 respectively (I was concerned it was suffering from in-ablity to use the extra air forced in by the snorkel at high speed)

How did they do on snow and ice? That's annother reason the TSL isn't ideal for me in Montana, something like 4 - 6 mons out of the year, the places I want to go wheel'n are covered in Ice and snow, so a mud tire is only needed in about 30% of the places I go, and if I can get more of an agressive ice/snow tire that can handle a bit of mud too should be best for me

Ok, so I already discovered some metal shavings in the bowl (stuff that snuck in from when I modded the intake ... drill shavings , etc) but I blew everything out, and things have improved, and short of a complete tear-down and re-assy, I'm wondering if this might be indicating a particular circuit in the carb ... here's what happends ... I warm it up, and drive it with no problems, I get on the road and first through 2nd are normal, then when I get into 3rd things seem to bogg a bit, and if I just stomp the petal, it really boggs down. If I am carefull, and feather the gas, it will get up to speed pretty much normal. I'm guessing this mean the secondaries are plugged ... any and all ideas welcome thx!

NO WAY!! they make that same nice DOT trailer tire in a 13 too!! and yes a 14" 205/75-14 6-ply!! now just need to find a place that sells them :-p

Where did you find this? I'd love to know what sizes they come it