FlyB0y

How did I not see that one comming? we just need to get Subaru to do it! hehe it's a nice thought isn't it? ... maybe when "what's his name" makes a decient place with his Baja 500 brat ... I can dream can't I?

Yep, but ty for reminding me ... at first it wasn't hehe then I read my manual

Heya Jerry, ty for the info, but I have hydrolic lifters, but I believe I found the problem ...I didn't crank over the engine for long enough and with my over-sized alt #2 was hard to get to and I didn't have a good seal ... now I got compression as follows #3 cyl 145 PSI #1 cyl 150 PSI #4 cyc 145 #2 cyl 155 PSI so I'm doing ok ... now I just need to get the !#@$!@##!@!! lock-tight to hold on my #3 cyl on the heli-coil repair ... oh well :-p

(for a D/R tranny to make the final drive lower ... sorry I forgot to put this in the first time )I'm sure I am over-simplifying this, but what if you could machine a ring gear that has more teeth yet taking the same space, and you were able to make the pinion gear smaller? Wouldn't this effectivly lower the final drive? (I'm SURE this isn't possible since no one has done it yet:-p)

I was just checking my compression and #1, all cylinders were almost exactly the same except the #2 cyl is 15lbs lower than all the otheres ... and I was curious at what point would you concider it ready to need major work? the book says no more than 12 - 14 lbs differance ... so does that mean a little sea-foam or a little valve job?

Well, I would like to do the whole fording rivers thing, but right now I can't really afford the bearings I just replaced 2x in the last month ... got that problem fixed, but untill I start making better money at my new job, I don't like the idea of trashing bearings early or having to re-pack them with grease every week ... but some day I will be able to afford to play in the water

Yeah! looks like we had similar brain-storms ... what kind of flexible line did you use? RV sewer line like mine?

Well, it's foam from a Edlebrock Filter, not just a prefilter ... also the screen material of the drain strainers will keep back some of the big stuff ... one other modification I am doing is a 4" pipe ring to act as a spacer so the filter foam isn't squished so much, might be keeping it from breathing as freely as it should.

I don't know about your neck of the woods there, but I'm not too far away here in Montana, and I would say 2 things ... unless it's really complete and runs, $500 is a high price for a roll of the dice from the JY ... I am guessing that they don't really know for sure on the value of it and are seeing what they can get for it. I got my latest brat for only $75, (unconfirmed, but it's supposed to run just needs a battery) but it's pretty rusty and needs paint ... it's definatly a keeper, just needs alot of TLC ... if I were you, I would tell them $500 if it runs and only $300 if it doesn't ... I can help you find a decent one around here if your interested ...

Well, I can't seem to be able to edit the title, so I will say it here ... one problem I have had to fix recently was the dammage the hose made to the paint on the hood. At speed, the slight flexing of the hose rubbing at 2 places on the hood wore through the paint:rolleyes: so now I have some of those 3" ferncos covering those 2 spots.

Sure man, I'd love to come out that way, but I have to say I am more interested in the snorkel's ability to get cleaner less dusty air up high than going deep river crossing ... i'm not sure I wana spend weeks later trying to dry it out and keep the mold from growing.

Ok, so I am CHEAP (read poor untill I get my new job:-p ) and it would kill me to pay $80 each for OEM tranny mounts new, and I set about a way to jury rig some form of solid mounts, first I thought I would put a U-bolt with shackel to compress them, but that wasn't going to work, then I had the brainstorm ... put large bolts along side the rubber dampner, and violla! I just got some that were tight enough that I had to start them with a hammer and used a wrench to get them all the way in, so far I still have some give in the rubber to keep the vibration down, but it's stiff enough to keep my tranny from moving and knocking the 4wd shifter into neutral

Now this post has gone to the Dogs!

Hmmm .... that makes sense, I never thought of that, and I did just "fix" my rotten tranny mounts ... I'll have to see the next time I drive it thx! :cool:

I have an unusuall reading on my guage ... in the past it has been pretty steady, and the pressure increased as RPM's increased ... now it seems to fluctuate between the normal 50 PSI and 20-25 PSI under hard acceleration. I have a oil pump that is only about 3 - 4 mons old, and I keep my engine topped up regularly every time I fill-up the gas. Is this anything to worry about?

Thx! I suggest making a in-line filter like I have in the 3" line. It's really easy ... all you need are a 4" fernco (rubber boot with 2 hose clamps for joining to pieces of 4" pipe) 2 4" sink strainers that are made of fine mesh like that of a screen door, 2 4" x 3" reducing bushings and a 4" round disk of filter foam, I made mine from the foam filter of my Edlebrock filter (can be bought for $20 at a parts store and will make 5 - 6 of these filters) this set-up is completely waterproof too, though I don't know that I wana re-pack the grease in my bearings and make vents for my diff & tranny, mostly I made this to cut down on dust being ingested and I originally planned on putting in on of those "turbonators" in-line :cool: ... not sure I will yet

Actually, that is the second battery I have 100W hella's up front and my winch, so I wanted a spare battery and I have a 94 AMP alt too

New Pics of the carb adaptor

Thanks man! it took me a bit before I figured out how to make one work, at first I was just going to use a round "donut" type of flashing that would just be like a big grommet, but that would have a full 90DEG bend comming outta the hood, and that would stick-up alot more than the way it is now.

Well, actually it's a trimmed down Swiss Army mess kit I haven't yet seen a scoop that I really wana spend real money on, and all the cheap plastic ones on Ebay are just that ... cheap plastic .. I saw some hooded roof vents the other day that would be decient if they were cleaned up (all that I have seen have big wrinkles in the rounded parts) but ultimately when I have the cash I might make a "T" so I can choose either the snorkle or scoop and use a induction cowl like the one Qman has from a Mustang II *P.S. I am having issues getting my computer to recognize my boss's camera, so it might be a little bit b4 I have the new pics from under the hood done ...*

Yeah ... I have seen where peeps have done it out the side of the fender, but I decied I would go out the hood to avoid modding the inner fender and outer fender, and originally I was going ot simply notch the hood near where it meets the windshield, but that would have compromised the structural re-inforcements, and I didn't want to do that, so I just went through the hood the farthest place back that I felt was practical, and with the flexible hose it's no real problem.

yes ... there IS a Roto-Rooter connection! 99% of the components are sewer pipe, and I could have used a better type of hose, (the RV flexible sewer line is not smooth inside) but the alternative comes in 20' sections for about $80 each! AND weighs about 75lbs per 20' section, so I went with the light (but not terribly light like a dryer hose) 3" RV hose

Sure ... I am going to up-load some asap

Thx! I also forgot to add the other component ... I cut down a 2" galvanized roof vent flashing to make the finished looking exit out the hood.

Here are the components: 3" ABS pipe, 3" PVC elbow and toilet flange, 3" flexible RV sewer line, 2 3 x 4" PVC reducing bushings, 2 4" dia. sink strainers, 4" Fernco (rubber boot connector), 4" dia. circle of foam filter from an edlebrock washable filter, sliding door locks (the kind that screw to the sil), some misc. connectors for the 3" RV line and my favorite part, the "pen & pencil caddy" that I converted to an inlet. The pics wouldn't show the way the caddy looks so I will do my best to describe it. The caddy has a 4" center that has a cone shaped liner slightly smaller that comes to about 2.5" at the bottom, and the 4" pipe in the center has the larger diameter bell shaped outer part connected by four ribbs. It took a while to figure out how to do this, but I used a makita jig saw and cut slotts along the ribbs and a hole saw to make the bottom of the cone open. I also used a special 90 DEG saw for a drill motor and cut the inside of the 4" pipe at the bottom. In the end, I have a bell shaped inlet of about 7" in diam with a 4" x 2.5" venturi in the center, not sure how much effect the venturi has, but it looks neat