FlyB0y

good idea on the tack welds, but I don't know ... if I had to do that one the trail it would be hard with out a premere sp? power welder ... I have a guy who does some metal work just down the street from me too, gonna see what he thinks ... he might just drill them with his press for me and grind the back-side or at least tell me what needs to be done.

Ok, make an offer on them mostaru I need to make some money to afford the machine shop to drill my hubs ... then again, with steels it's more forgiving right? I might be able to just drill those by hand (which is what I wanted to do originally anyway:banana: )

here's an almost identical pic of the style of mag wheels I got from the JY yesterday (only differeance is mine are 14 x 6 with 6 x 5.5 lug pattern) http://www.nastyz28.com/faq/wheel/78-yj8.jpg Is this strong enough type mag*edit*(for off-roading), or should I still look for a matching set of steels?

*Wallet screams in agony*

Ok now I 'm really confused (but I am sober) If you need a rope rated at 36k, then does a MM winch come with grossly inadequit rope? and if so what rope would you buy to replace it? is "brake force" a different term than "break strength" ?

I have heard muriatic acid, as it will take off a tiny bit of the metal off the surface, leaving bright shinny metal exposed ... anyone done this? I am a little leary as I know how bad the fumes are for ya ...

Yeah ... Nels' mentioned having a set of discs laying around ... but then again, I could always have some discs done later and put the drums on the hatch I wana get lifted to sell and then get some discs done too hehe ... I'm still bumbed that I can't just drill them out myself .. I was hoping to have this done this week-end and get my pugs ready to sell P.S. what did it cost ya to get them done? and what size did you have them drilled to? I was told to get them to 9/16's ...

yes ... ty Jibs, I have seen that info ... kinda wished I had looked a little harder and found some matching steels in decient shape, but I think these mags will look nice once I remember what kinda acid cleans them up ... I think it's muriatic acid ... and I happen to have a few gallons in the work truck of course I won't have but one good lung left after using that much acid to clean them, but I will have nice shinny rims!

Tru, tru ... but untill I can afford a $500 winch, I will have to stick with my HF one with the 2ton block and tackle ... that still gives me the min 1.5 wench strength for weight of a 2500lb vehicle, (assuming it IS only 2500 ... gonna have to check on a scale then see what tools I will have to leave behind ) definately going to have to find the strength of the wire rope on the winch, no use having strong cable and weak rope, just takes one to break and turn that hook and/or cable into something deadly P.S. I am a bit confused about the break strength rating on the MM site .. is that different than the minimum break force of 9,800lbs on the 8k winch rope?

Can I get a HALLELUJA!!! :clap: I'm soooooo glad to here that I won't be needing a tow-truck wench for my brat I'm still going to try my wench/block & tackle combo but with high strength rope, maybe I can get some synth line to run all the way through them both, can't have a winch line rated at 8k matched with rope rated at 3200 ... will have to see what else is available ... just not sure if I can afford the $150/ 100ft 10k rated line yet, but we will see ... I don't plan on really going into areas where I could expect to get stuck up to my doors in mud ... mostly like to see what obstacles I can crawl over and ruts/kelly humps I can pick my way around ... mainly excited about the posibilities with 4.44 gears P.S. anyone know how I can get the break strength of the cable on my 2000lb HF winch?

Ok, so I got my wheels (14 x 6 Mag wheels from a '85 Mazda 2 wheel drive with 6 x 5.5 lug pattern, if I measured correctly they have a 3.75 off-set measuring from the bead to the inside of the wheel) It was originally my understanding that I should be able to simply pound out 2 of my 4 lugs and bolt up the wheel and that would serve as the template for the new stud holes. I have now been told that especially with the wheels being mags, that I need extra precise holes drilled, and the back side of the hub milled at each stud hole. I want to do this right, is there anything else I am missing? btw I have the correct lugs and matching deep lugg nuts to fit the subaru 12 x 1.25 wheel studs ... and if this conversion goes well, I will be selling my 14" pugs soon ... any advice, info or general slaps aside my head appriciated.

omg .... what a difference this artical makes ... I now realize while operating the winch I will need to be guiding the cable so that it doesn't bind on the reel, I'm not willing to be in the bite of the line for anything less than running with a load of less than 20% of the rated break strength of the line ... is there any kind of mechanical device that would properly wind the line on the reel with-out needing someone in direct path of a the potentially whipping brocken line? Here is my other question, if understanding the artical correctly, I can assume that my brat fully loaded will weigh 3000lbs (I really think it's more like 2500, but saying 3000 to be safe) ... now if I am stuck to the frame in mud, it should take 3x that weight's worth of power to pull it out ... that means 9000lbs!! and if I need a safety factor of 4x, just where are you going to find cable/synth line with a break strength of 36,000lbs!!! AND have the weight of the line it's self less than 500lbs?! am I right with these numbers? and that is with a safety factor of 4 ... and it is recommending that you have a line that is not subjected to more than 20% of it's rated break strength if someone will be in the bite of the line, which I would be I guess, making sure the line feeds properly ... that means you would need a line rated at 45,000lbs!!! Please tell me I am wrong here somewhere

Whooo Hooo!!! I don't understand all the details here, but if you can get this to work, I will definately make this the next major mod of my 'ru!! Why add more hp when you can go back to stock gearing with big tires (not big just bigger than stock .. 28" in my case:cool: ) and save your axles?

I second that ... ty Storydude

It's snowing!! too bad it's 3am and I have a appointment to get my car aligned at 8am ... lol!!! nothing ever works out on my day-off, but at least in this case I might not have a life, but at least I am getting paid pretty well today to not have a life ... doh! I wana play in the snow, but I'm broke and still have a CV boot to replace

I'd suspect the Idle curcuit solenoid .. assuming you have the stock Hitossy (Hitachi) carburator. How does it drive on the freeway? Does this only happen in town with stop and go driving? I had this problem fora while with my Hitossy and I tossed it and bought a weber from Edrach here on the board, best investment I made on this car yet! There is a thread about holley webers for $65 (US) rebuilt! I'm guessing it is a carb/choke related problem.

The Redline water wetter I have used was for racing, anti-freeze is very slippery and dangerous on a track ... I don't know if they make a special "wetter" for street use, it has been over 10 yrs since I raced my motorcycle at PIR and they made us use Redline water wetter just to keep things safer. Is there a "wetter" for street use? I live in Montana ..it gets very cold here with sometimes little or no warning .. it was -20 DEG for a while in November and I had antifreeze in my radiator mixed for -35 DEG and my radiator STILL froze enough to make small leaks ... I wouldn't take any chances on that stuff, but your in Eugene, it's a bit more mild and forgiving weatherwise ...

I'm with 85sub4wd ... it would indicate to me running lean, the ash is due to things getting too hot, or just too hot a plug. I just checked my plugs, I have OEM NGK's and after a good 10k miles they still have a nice choclate brown color. I know there are "hotter" plugs out there like the bosch plats, but I prefer NGK's .. they have never let me down in the past, why should they in the future? :cool:

Yeah ... now that I am learning that peeps with EA81's are running bigger tires and not having the same problem, I am investigating the power-loss. If I can get a stock EA81 to do what I want, I will leave it at that. I think I found the culprit ... the #3 spark plug had been stripped, and I got a heli-coil kit for it, and forgot to install it all this time I have had my #3 spark plug with semi-stripped threads and nothing but some RTV to help seal it gee, I wonder if that might have caused some power loss? :-p It's kinda funny tho, the temporary fix held as long as I was running the coopers, and just happened to start leaking again some time after I put on the Swampers, so I just thought it was the bigger tires ... I need annother vacation or maybe start drinking when I work on my car so I can think more clearly

Granted, the original plan was to leave the cable as-is on the winch, and have the blocks attached with the cable hook through a loop on the rope. So, say you are 30' from a suitable tree, make some loops around the tree with the recovery strap, hook that to the outer block, and the winch to the inner block ... given that the pull needed to put 4000lbs to the tree is only 572lbs from the winch, and each line on the individual pullies on the blocks are also 572lbs, why wouldn't rope rated at 3200 be adequit? And yes, I would have to re-set the blocks every 8' but if I'm stuck, and that first pull doesn't do it to get me rolling easier, then I guess I will have to do it 8' at a time and learn not to go on something I get stuck so easily ... I'm not really looking to take my brat in mud-bogs or pull it up over rocks, just to get it out of the ruts I may have made in something much less difficult. But I agree, your right not much of that roap is gonna go on the winch, but there again, I can always daisy-chain a few ropes to make the distance, I'm just more interested in keeping this stuff light, I don't want a winch that weighs more than my bumper and I am cheap! (as long as I have the job I have now ... hopefully by this spring that problem will be rectified :cool: ) Here is a kewl explaination of how the block and tackle work that I found http://science.howstuffworks.com/pulley.htm

ROFLOL!!! Why didn't I think of that when I was stationed at Mc Chord!!! I kinda like the Sodium lights too tho ... hmmmm might need an alternator from a F16 tho (they do have them right? ) Well, I'm off to the next GSA (government surpluss) auction!

Ok, I have been trying to research 14" wheels ... I have been under the impression that my brat has a 4 x 140mm pattern ... I went out to my car to measure for kicks to see what the equivalent is in inches .... turns out to be really close to 4 in by eye-ball ... now I look up some calculators to make an exact conversion ... it spits back 5.511 inches ... what gives? I then look on my calipers, and sure enough measuring on my pug spare, I have a 100mm space center to center between the lug holes ... did someone steal my subi hubs or am I some-how missunderstanding how wheels are measured? and no I'm not OK OK !! I figured it out ... good thing I am sober ... I just measured across the wheel instead of one lug to closest lug ... lol nm maybe I need a drink so I understand better

FirstSubaruGLwagon ... were those standard 6 lug or 4 x 140mm? You know .... they have blanks that are un-drilled ... why can't I just tell them to take a early nissan/mazda/etc. 14" blank for 6 x 5.5" and have them drill it for 4 x 140mm!! Has anyone tried this?

$9.95 bid or $11.95 Buy It Now price with free shipping http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jeep-CJ-YJ-TJ-Wrangler-Off-Road-Tilt-Gauge-Free-Ship_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ46100QQitemZ4603445187QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW Here's one from a tercel ... nice ... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Toyota-Tercel-4Runner-Truck-INCLINOMETER-TILT-GAUGE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33705QQitemZ8028528397QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW Here's annother from a 4-runner http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Toyota-Truck-4Runner-SR5-Inclinometer-Tilt-Gauge-MINT_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ50459QQitemZ8027818077QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

************UP-DATE************** ... the listings below are BREAK strength not working strength as I thought befor ... and 10,000 lb break strength is about what we should have for subarus ... Ok, here's some interesting info for all you 2000lb winch guys :cool: http://www.neropes.com/techdata/multilineii.htm I was trying to find some sort of light, inexpensive synthetic winch line, and most of what I found was incredibly strong (10,000 working load is a bit more than I need :-p ) and equally expensive. Here is a 3-strand composite rope the construction combines filament and staple/spun polyester. This rope is designed for use with winches, and other rigging/hoisting applications. Best of all, I found it at my local Quality Supply (ranch supply store) for just $0.30 per foot! 100 feet weigh just 3.6 pounds, and I am planning on using this rope in a 2 ton block and tackle which has a lifting power ratio of 7:1 therefore, it only takes 571 pounds of force to pull it's working load of 4000 pounds (2 tons). Now, I will have to try this out and report back once I it all together, and eventually I may even replace the 50' of cable on my winch with it once it gets old. I'm sure that I won't fit 50' of 3/8 rope on a winch that has 50' of 5/32 cable, but I will have to see how much I can when the time comes. P.S. I am in no way any kind of expert in any of this, just info I am passing on to like-minded peeps ... I have only gone with the 2000lb winch at the recommendation of a friend who will remain nameless unless he wishes to join the discussion, the block and tackle I am adding with the extra info I have learned here.