FlyB0y

Just one question ... why a gen 1 brat instead of a gen 2? and I'm gonna have to see the pics of this beast!! sounds way kewl oh and my money would be on the brat! :cool:

I know it wouldn't look as trick, but wouldn't just one of the cheap ball shaped compasses you can buy for a car work too? You could just park on a reasonably level spot and mark it for level, then go where your at the max say side-hill etc, etc. and mark it again?

Kewl! maybe I can actually look in the JY on my day-off thursday ... most of my day-offs involve working

Here's annother posibility ... has it sat for any length of time? If it has sat for over 6mon. or more, it's also possible that the brake calipers themselves are dirty, and the actual cylinders that are on the calipers can sometimes stick. To check this make sure you use ONLY and I do mean ONLY the same brake fluid that you put in the master cylinder to clean them. Have you had the Calipers appart at all? I saw this problem on motorcycles many times, but then again they tend to sit out the winter months and sometimes the rubber seals just get hard and less flexible, causing them to stick.

Agreed, and if a good battery (or jumping with your rig) fixes it then it's just a low battery. My guess is it has sat a while and the battery is bad, or just old and going bad.

Kewl man :cool: , I will check my local yard too, so your saying most all the japanese truck wheels should work? I think I can get some pretty cheap here too ... when you say $40 you mean for a set or per wheel? Oh, and my brat's fenders are already cut, so I guess it doesn't really matter anymore how much I cut them, they had rust to take out anyway ... oh well ... I'm beginning to think the only cheap easily obtained 14" wheels are going to be ones I drill ...

It was my understanding that it takes something like 2x the LPG to do the same work as gasoline, maybe it's changed in recient years? Do you get as good or possibly better mileage with LGP as with gasoline? Also,I have to ask ... in your sig, the "Cheers Big Ears" line ... is that a refrence to Prince Charles?

Just curious if anyone has already found some 14" 6 lugs that can be easily drilled for 4 x 140mm ... I have seen how some 15" chevy spokes have been drilled, but no examples of 14's ... or if anyone could possibly tell me where to find info on the offset of factory Subie wheels and I will just goto the JY and start measuring. :cool: I just saw these on Ebay ... wonder if they have the right offset ... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/WHITE-8-SPOKE-WHEELS-14X6-6-5-1-2-STEEL-SET-4_W0QQitemZ8028750625QQcategoryZ43954QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem and if so, I am sure these 14's would be easily obtained at the local tire shop P.S. OUCH!!! If I had to buy these on ebay and pay shipping, the shipping is more than the opening bid!!

Check out this Delorion!! http://www.strangevehicles.com/content/item/112676.html

What Adam N.D.J. said! All I can say is the Baja is a SAD excuse for the brat's successor, there are more brats on the road where I live than Baja's too (should tell ya what kinda red-neck area I live in :-p ) Anyhow, power to weight ratio is where it's at .. haveing a EJ in my brat will be like having 280 horse & torque in a Legacy, I don't have the extra weight other than my bumpers, lift and tires and I haven't weighed it yet, but I'd be real surprised if my brat weighed more than about 2300 - 2400 even with my tools in the back. I can get a new to me part in the JY here for $10 - $20 bucks that would be over $100 new and if you gotta have new, just order online, shoot even one of the local JY'ds had pugs (not anymore I told you all about them ) So, thats why I drive an EA .. how many people in Baja's get notes on their wind-shields that say "I WANT to buy this car! BIG money call John ###-####"

Yep, I will do that, pretty sure that hasn't changed but now that I think about it, it didn't seem to be quite right even after he "fixed" the timming after his first try I have a great mechanic that lives about 5 min from me

hmmm I am beginning to wonder if there isn't something else wrong robbing my power then I have a webber too and custom 2" catless exhaust, and untill I went up from the 26.1 coopers to the 27.4" TSL's (in reality they are more like 27.7) maybe it wasn't the tires as much as some other problem I didn't catch I will have to have my mechanic check things out for me ... I had a friend time it for me when I got a distributor (I couldn't read the timming marks very well with the old one I borrowed, he had a nice digital) from the JY and the first time he did it it was wayyy off ... hmmm gonna look into it

LOL!!! that poor Subie!! thanks for the link! I had been searchinf under auto art and such and finding nothing .... now I just need to find KEWL looking art cars for ideas

No, I believe this is refering to the 2 wire leads comming from the back of the light that are removeable. It has 2 leads that have blade type plug-ins that match the stock plug for the headlight. If you simply hook these up as they are, (with the tape insulating them from the bezel) you will have no more difficulty than replacing a normal light and you will be able to simply buy H4 replacement bulbs when they wear-out.

Yes lol that is what I was trying to explain, they are EXACLY the same shape, size and configuration as the stock sealed beams with ONE exception, just simply wrap the outside of the lense with electrical tape (not enough room for foam ... I tried that first :-p ) when I say outside of the lense, I'm only talking about where it contacts the bezel, so like on my 4 light brat, just one width of tape in about 2 -3 layers around and it has a very wide pattern so it really lights things up nice, just be carefull if you have cops that check lights alot in your area, they might not be street legal that is why I didn't get replacement low-beams too in my case .. only someone who knows what to look for will be able to tell it's anything other than a stock light unless they're on and blinding someone, but I'm ... .... (LOL!!! I just love this new icon hehe) just get some ordered, you will love how well they work

What do you mean "static replacemnt"? the ones I am talking about are designed to work as "bolt on" other than you have to Isolate them so they don't ground themselves and turn on as soon as you turn on the key. I was never able to find on-line descriptions or applications, but I went to my local "Bumper to Bumper" store and they just looked them up based on the model numbers for the stock sealed beam. They are really nice, only $45 each light compared to add-ons, very reasonable.

get a set of Hella replacements for the OEM sealed beams ... just be carefull, they aren't exactly "legal" for street use as far as I know, I just put them in my high beams, since you only use those when it won't bother anyone anyway ... be sure to read the post on these lights ... I put in the info for adding them and keeping them from staying on by themselves

I have it, here is what you do ... Simply goto your local parts store and they can look-up a light to replace the sealed beam, and it is the same size and shape of the OEM sealed beam, just is a reflector with a replacable bulb and they come with 55w bulbs that wouldn't require much other than this they didn't warn me about ... I have a '85 brat and not sure if this is true of all brats, or all subies of this vintage, but the headlights operate with the power being constant and the ground being turned on and off. The hella lenses will ground themselves and make the lights stay on constantly ... this didn't happen for a long time .. 2 - 3 months later for me, if your going to stick with the 55w bulbs, just be sure and insulate the outside of the lense from the hedlight bezel (frame) I used a few layers of electrical tape, but I use 100w bulbs, so I made a separate circuit with a continuous use solenoid (looks like a Ford starter solenoid) make sure it says "continuous use" in the discription, I used a starter solenoid first and it died after 20 -30 min of use.

I said it wrong actually, it's called a Phantom Grip, and according to the site it's a LSD that locks under hard accelleration ... look here http://www.phantomgrip.com/how_it_works.htm

I can't remember who was telling me about this at WCSS7, but they mentioned some of the things people would do the make their cars look interesting for example, putting carburators on the hood or all kinds of crazy hoses and a fake jet turbine on the back of a volkswagen bug ... is there a site with these kinda cars with pics anyone knows of? I'm looking for some ideas

so where do Phantom Lockers fit in this mix? My understanding is that it acts as a LSD untill one wheel starts spinning and then the 2 blocks on the shaft (I have no idea of the proper terms for all the internals of a diff please bear with me )between the spider gears are forced into said gears effectivly locking ... but I really don't know anything about this stuff at all, just trying to learn

If I wasn't seeing this myself I might have a hard time believeing it was a problem for someone else. I have a '85 Brat with blade type fuses, and I was checking things out since some of my add-ons (hella lights, Isolation solinoid for 2nd battery, fog lights ) stopped working suddenly last night. I discovered the main problem to be a loose battery connection. Now I have a 10amp fuse for the charging system that has power to it, but as soon as I put in a fuse, checking the back of the fuse indicates NO power. Here is where is gets weird ... I put in a blown 20amp blade fuse in the same slot, and I have power to that one side that is hot, every other fuse I put in there does NOT have power to the hot side of the leg .. I have tryed crimping the contacts to make sure it's a tight connection, and I can feel the fuse go in tight, but once the fuse is in, it's conciderably loose compared to the other fuses. I'm not sure what to try next, any suggestions welcome that was my clue, all I had to do was start the engine and it has power now just fine ... also the $10 starter solenoid I had for the "on" switch for the hellas poped after maybe 20 min of use last night guess it's back to napa for a MAN's starter solenoid

ROFLOL!!!!! that thing is soooo ridiculous looking!! I haven't laughed that hard in a long time :-p

Yeah, yeah ... I know ... what is worse? clearance and no power, or power and no clearance? I'm not sure which is worse (I think no power is more pathetic tho .. thx for posting the pic! ... what happend to your double date?

Ok, so I never had a problem b4 with my SS's on ice .... well I can't say THAT anymore . I talked Free-Range(Nels) into going up to painted rocks today, what a blast! We went into the dry (well less wet :-p ) lake bed and were doing fine till we fell through the hard top crust of 6"-8" re-froze snow an I was once again reminded of how badly my EA81 is working to turn 28" swampers . He ran out of clearance, I ran out of power So then I decided to take him to annother place I have checked out, and on the way up to a "closed" (read kelly humped) road we saw a couple ATV's and they told me "you don't wana go up there ... the ice is so slick its scarry!" so, of course we went up! (never have any fun being carefull anyway right? ) It was icy in a few patches, but no big deal ... then turn one courner up this mountain road and suddenly I'm going slower than my tires are turning .. hmmmm BAD sign well I pull over an Nels asks how far up I'm thinking another mile or 2, we both have chains if we need them, but I'm too lazy to goto all that work! well the "closed" road was only 2 -3 more turns up, so I figure, no big deal just a bit farther... Next I see about going up a kelly hump I was never able to think about trying b4 with my 26" tires, next thing I know, I'm stuck in the "ditch" of the kelly hump after crawling up it for a picture (only up the hill a bit not on top or over ) Nels has to coach me out of it and I eventually have to gun it in reverse to make the turn with-out the rear-end slidding out and putting me sideways again . Now after all that, we head down the 1/2" ice covered road, np ... going slow staying away from the cliff side and using the breaks only in short pumps to keep a nice slow crawl .... works pretty good for about 3 - 4 corners, next turn I'm off the breaks but suddenly the rear-end passes the front end! still crawling at 5 - 7 MPH, but man, that cliff is still steep and scary even if you head for it at 2 MPH well, I did come to a stop and put it in front wheel drive to get turned around again, no real sliding after that, but MAN I need to bring spare underware next time too! I wonder how Khumo Venture MT's do on ice ...