FlyB0y

np, I don't expect to get any "ram-air" effect, just more space to build my vortex creater (tornado/turbonator) I'm not going to preasurize it, just hope to get a little cooler air this way P.S. like the wagon chopped ... looks better than a stock wagon

I love your ice-machine scoop muellerdeal!! I should try something similar, and just put the XT intake as the front of it .. can you make a side pic of that scoop for us too?

I don't know what your budget will allow, but I got a good deal here for my weber, and I just found one pretty reasonable at the local j/y it's a DGAV-33B1 32/36 the one I have on my EA-81 is a DGAV-33A1 I'm no weber expert, but I am guessing that it might be jetted a little diferent, and it has the electric choke, very easy to set-up ... I got mine here for $80 including shipping, so that's what I will sell this one for if your interested

OOOOO! I like Skip's the best so far! and I think I will leave the "fart" can to the kids with the "go-fast" stickers on their hondas :-p (btw ... I LOVE that name "fart can" it fits perfectly!! ) please give me a total run-down on what you got skip, including price of materials! and btw ... it sounds like everyone is saying leave the stock headers? I thought they were a bit restrictive ...

Heya, I am wondering what would be the best option for a custom exhaust for my '85 EA81 Brat? I have a weber, I have eliminated all the smog gear, and I want to get more flow with out sacrificing any mileage. I have been told that the stock pipe is really a smaller pipe with-in the outside pipe, so should I simply have a full diameter pipe made minus the cat, or can I go the next size up in pipe along with opening up the exhaust manifold a bit with out losing MPG? I know that the more flow and power increase you generally get less MPG, so I am hoping to just come to the point that I maximize the performance with the "stock" MPG. Is this possible? Or maybe I can just gut my cat to get more flow?

Just an up-date on the use of the "condensator" that I installed on my boss's '91 Exploder: 2.5 MPG gained over a 4,000 mile trip and about 1 inch of oil collected in the bottom of the tea bottle ... *Note* This car doesn't burn any oil, so it's not just an old engine either

This does sound like they are fishing for investers, and I think this whole "no oil required" thing is pretty rediculous considering the incredible temperatures it should generate. Did anyone check the link to the working motor they demonstraited on a go-kart in 2004? All that being said, if it is buildable and able to do half of what they claim, it should no doubt require the use of some serious high temp capable materials that should price it well out of the hands of an average consumer. I'm more curious to hear more about that wankle engine that weighs 120lbs and generates 150 HP ... how much are they (not cheap I am sure :-p )

Heya all, I am totally new to this stuff, I have messed around in the past to try and make motorcycles go faster, but not with a car. I put a Weber on my '85 Brat and want to make a hood scoop for it to get cooler air to the filter. Not sure I want to really try anything too fancy like a blower, but I did get a free hood from an 'XT that I can mod to mate with my spare brat hood. The plan is to cut a hole roughly the size of the scoop in the brat hood and then weld just the portion that the duct-work from the XT scoop attaches to, and then finish makeing the bottom part around the air filter from the turbo brat air box I have. I am concidering making a raised scoop/box (what ever you call it :-p) from the air box of the turbo brat(I have a plastic welder ) but what ever I do, the finish product is too look as stock as possible. I am also concidering something along the lines of a "tornado" or "turbonator" style vortex creater at the intake of the box. Not going to buy one, but I might make my own Any and all thoughts/comments appreciated (please limit the "that Idea is the SUCK" comments ... looking for constructive criticism thx )

Nice! thx for the info! :cool: I go a great deal from my favorite junk-yard ... a XT hood with the scoop attached FREE!! it has some minor damage on the front and back, and just happends to be the same silver as my extra brat hood ... I will see if I can just cut a hole in the extra hood, cut out the scoop and weld the mounting points onto the brat hood so I can always replace it with annother XT scoop if needed

Yes, you can just put in a large fuel filter, however, I believe it makes a differance how much volume the cooling area has, i.e. the more area you have for cooling, the more the heavy stuff like oil and water will have a chance to collect on the filter media and fall to the bottom. In theory, the vaporized fuel/air should not be stopped by the filter much, and will continue on. With my set-up, to clean it (recommened at every oil change) you simply open the tea brewer and dump it out. I have been using regular steel wool, so I might have to replace that too each cleaning (it will rust).

Nice! I actually bought my first (owned) subi in washington (88 Justy) before I moved back to Msla and now I am living in Hamilton ... Msla is great, I visit there 2x a week, soon to be moving to Stevi or Florence so I am closer to Msla :cool: I had been impressed with my ex-girlfriend's Loyal and then she got a legacy and that little Justy was sweet! Only 60k original miles, paid $1500 for it, but it was fun to drive (VERY pepy for a 3 cyl!) and then I set my heart on a Brat, and finnally sold the Justy to by my curret machine

I was thinking it would be fun to call a beefed up Brat with a lift and power mods a "Brute" kinda like the guys that do the same to a Landcruiser and then call it a Landcrusher ... What do you all think? Suggestions for names welcome

:slobber: Nice PIc!!!!! any Idea what other mods that Brumby had? $10k .. is that USD or Australian? Either way sounds like they must have at least big motor or something in it to even ask that price!

Ok, I got the message about the "tornado" :-p Anyone with any ideas about a hood with a scoop built-in that I could adapt to fit my brat?

My weber has a slightly too tall air filter (new one I ordered, not the one I got it with) and I just thought it would be fun to have a low-profile air scoop on the hood, anyone know if there is a hood from say an out-back or Legacy wagon that would fit with some small modifications? Also, I have looked into these "Tornado" things that seem to be a simple bolt-on static vortex creator. In simple terms, a device that speeds up air flow with out a blower. When you look at these devices they just look to me like a turbo fan blade that doesn't move and apparently it's the normal suction created by the intake that is then sped-up by the shape of the blades. I wonder if this is similar to the Venturi Effect of a carburator?

Looks good Mark! I will post my creation soon as my boss returns and I can get a pic of the one I put in his exploder ... As far as a Fire hazard goes, well just remember your not putting anything into that jar that wasn't already in the PCV line already, and the official "condinsator" is made of plastic too, just make sure it's in an area that doesn't get too hot ... the cooler the gasses are when they are going back into the intake the better.

Good to know thx is that something an older GPS I might find at a pawn shop/garage sale or just very recient ones?

Lots of great ideas, thx! I looked up a tire calc, but it's not a constant through-out the speed range, at lower speeds it shows a correction of +5 mph, and above 45, it's something closer to +10, so I figured I should just get a GPS that is accurate for a speedo, but otherwise cheap ... gonna check some pawn shops

Heya all, anyone have a suggestion for a inexpensive GPS that would make an accuate Speedo? I am going to make the conversion to 26.1" tires on my brat and want to avoid having to guess my actual speed with the bigger tires. Thanks

Here is something interesting to concider: A carbed engine is less efficent in fuel delivery, and the older designs (EA-81 in my case) will have more blow-by and more un-burnt fuel in the blow-by than an injected engine, therefore, it would make sense that a FI engine will see much less power/fuel economy increase than a carbed engine. I am testing my new design with the tea-brewing bottle on my boss's '91 Ford Exploder (Explorer :-p ) to see how much if any change he gets on a long trip (approx 1800 - 1900 miles total) Oddly enough the "condensator" is said to take approx 1800 miles of use before a noticeable gain is apparent. All I know is, this makes for a great bolt-on gas mileage increaser and I have noticed a big increase in power I made the filter as close in apparent design as I could from common items. I noticed that it was a very un-restrictive free-flowing design, and I actually concidered a air line dryer first, but I saw most localy for sale at $45+ and they were way too small to get near the volume of the "condinsator" Also, just annother thing to note: some models of "condinsators" have a one-way checkvalve, so some of you might have to look-up if your model of car would require one (just ask if the one sold for your car model requires one ) And just as a side note I have talked to some people who have just taken a large fuel filter with a drain at the bottom gave similar results. Just think of this as the exiting hose from your crank case breather that goes into a filter and the filter is inside a bottle and once this is filtered, the liquids collect on the filter media, allowing the vaporized fuel/air mixture to exit out of a vent in the top which is then connected to the intake manifold (the same hose line already attached this way ... your simply extending this line and putting the "condensator" in-line with this) Have fun! Let me know if anyone comes up with a easier or more efficient design from common cheap items

Welcome Youngling! Learn about "The Sube" you Shall ... soon a master will you be

I have an '85 Brat, and it had all the emissions gear known on it, including a charcoal canister that is suppose to absorb gas fumes escaping from your carb/gas tank. I just thought that was a good place to put a condinsator since I had a spot for it and it would be easy to strap down. I'm sorry, no pics yet, have to see if I can get my boss to let me borrow his digi cam for that, mine isn't much good and isn't set up for his comp ... can't wait to be on-line with my own computer soon... Yes it is alot like a oil catch can, but the differance is it is sealed, has a filter and allows the un-burnt fuel vapor in the blow-by that the catch can would hold to be taken back into the intake, thus more power and better fuel ecomomy

Ok, if you have heard of this product, you probubly thought the same thin I did .... " A $150 catch-bottle?!?! " Well, I talked to a few people and one was a mechanic who claimed he noticed an increase in power in his engine and going onto the freeway his automatic didn't have to shift as low to go up the on-ramp he took every day. Then a friend at work got one so I did some investigating ... he claimed a small gain in MPG and decient power increase. So then I thought, what really IS special about this device opposed to a simple catch-bottle you have to put on the crank vent tube when you race a motorcycle? Well, according to one of the local dealers, it's the unique small silica beads inside the "screen door" mesh filter with tiny dimples you see on golf balls. The theory is that blow-by from your crank vent goes through a special minimal flow restrictive filter that collects all the bad stuff (Oil,water, dirt etc.) and it drips to the bottom of the bottle while the fuel/air mixture goes out the vent in the top of the bottle, which recycles the fuel that escaped past the rings into the crank, minus all the bad stuff. So I decided to make one out of my old charcole filter canister (I have a weber now so I removed all the smog creating junk :-p) I made a very simple filter out of a spagetti sauce can, two small screen mesh strainers ( like a smaller version of the basket type metal screen strainers for cooking pasta ) one the diameter of the can and one slightly smaller with a scotch-bright dish scrubber in-between. Here are the results: I have a BIG hill to go over when I travel from Lolo MT to Missoula MT. It's on I-90, and after a gental rise and a couple gental curves there is a long level straight-away before a long steep hill. With my newly cleaned and re-built weber carb just a few days earlier on thursday, I had to make the typical running start to about 85 MPH just to maintain 65 - 70 throught this hill. Last Sunday I had installed my proto-type and made the same run. To make it interesting I didn't speed up to 85 untill the last minute and was not only able to make 85 MPH much faster in a shorter distance than usual, I also KEPT 85 MPH THROUGH THE TURN!!! I had annother test on a steep slippery corse gravel road in the woods I have tried with my brat. On previous attempts I had to lean-out the carb a bit to keep from bogging-out 2/3s of the way up this hill and run in 4-low and 1st gear to power up it (It's at about a 35-40 DEG) with just my 13" all seasons. After I tried it with the Condensator I was able to shift into second just as I was at the bottom of the hill and make it 9/10s of the way up in second gear!! Now before you get any ideas with that old charcloe canister, here's a MUCH simpler way and better way to make your own "condensator" I was at a sporting goods store when I saw this and got the idea ... you can goto www.liquid-solutions.com to get the same camping tea mug that I am using to make my final version of my home-made "condensator". It's under coffee and tea products and it's called the "Tea-zer". Here's the deal ... the basket strainer fits under the screw-on lid, and makes the perfect filter basket! For this one I will experiment with fine steel wool and some of the stainless steel pot scrubbers (these are alot more coarse) and some brass pipe fittings. Just take a hole saw open up the lid you drink from all the way up and drill a hole in the top of the screw-on lid for the crank vent hose to come in. Take the strainer basket and poke some more holes on the sides, not the bottom, to increase the air-flow with a small nail with a piece of wood inside the basket as a back-board. Next put a small 1/4" to 1/2" patch of steel wool/scubbing pad on the bottom of the basket. Lastly, make a hole on the side as near to the top as you can just through both walls to make a vent for the fuel/air gases to escape, this is where it connects to the line going to the PCV valve which is connected to the intake. The nice thing about this too is that if at any time you decide to remove it, simply un-plug it and route the hose as normal and nothing of the original stuff had to be modified Here's some interesting info about the "condensator" http://www.condensatorsales.com/ An interesting EPA lab test of the "condensator" grrrrrrrrrrrr!! my boss's computer can't handle adobe acrobat I will try and find that test later but I believe it said that on OTR diesel engines and other large diesel's they saw an increase of 15 - 25% on MPG over the standard practice of venting the same stuff to the atmosphere (road draft tube) Dayn

I just got the re-build kit in today, and I must say the carb looked pretty good to begin with, but a carb is never "clean" till it's been boiled out and had every passage tested ... So then I took off the air horn first, and kinda messed with the diaphram valve just underneath it which I believe is the power valve ... well I set it aside and took the rest appart with no problems .... I just HAD to take off the powervalve ... so now the diaphram is torn, and of course the rebuild kit didn't have one :-p .... I am kinda hoping that either I can limp along with-out one or maybe I can temp fix it with some RTV and duct tape Any hope for me?

ROFLOL!!!! That must be one hellova spring to stretch that far!! I have just been hooking one at the little diaphram nearest the throttle linkage ... gonna try and get a stiffer spring today