FlyB0y

Ok, if you have heard of this product, you probubly thought the same thin I did .... " A $150 catch-bottle?!?! " Well, I talked to a few people and one was a mechanic who claimed he noticed an increase in power in his engine and going onto the freeway his automatic didn't have to shift as low to go up the on-ramp he took every day. Then a friend at work got one so I did some investigating ... he claimed a small gain in MPG and decient power increase. So then I thought, what really IS special about this device opposed to a simple catch-bottle you have to put on the crank vent tube when you race a motorcycle? Well, according to one of the local dealers, it's the unique small silica beads inside the "screen door" mesh filter with tiny dimples you see on golf balls. The theory is that blow-by from your crank vent goes through a special minimal flow restrictive filter that collects all the bad stuff (Oil,water, dirt etc.) and it drips to the bottom of the bottle while the fuel/air mixture goes out the vent in the top of the bottle, which recycles the fuel that escaped past the rings into the crank, minus all the bad stuff. So I decided to make one out of my old charcole filter canister (I have a weber now so I removed all the smog creating junk :-p) I made a very simple filter out of a spagetti sauce can, two small screen mesh strainers ( like a smaller version of the basket type metal screen strainers for cooking pasta ) one the diameter of the can and one slightly smaller with a scotch-bright dish scrubber in-between. Here are the results: I have a BIG hill to go over when I travel from Lolo MT to Missoula MT. It's on I-90, and after a gental rise and a couple gental curves there is a long level straight-away before a long steep hill. With my newly cleaned and re-built weber carb just a few days earlier on thursday, I had to make the typical running start to about 85 MPH just to maintain 65 - 70 throught this hill. Last Sunday I had installed my proto-type and made the same run. To make it interesting I didn't speed up to 85 untill the last minute and was not only able to make 85 MPH much faster in a shorter distance than usual, I also KEPT 85 MPH THROUGH THE TURN!!! I had annother test on a steep slippery corse gravel road in the woods I have tried with my brat. On previous attempts I had to lean-out the carb a bit to keep from bogging-out 2/3s of the way up this hill and run in 4-low and 1st gear to power up it (It's at about a 35-40 DEG) with just my 13" all seasons. After I tried it with the Condensator I was able to shift into second just as I was at the bottom of the hill and make it 9/10s of the way up in second gear!! Now before you get any ideas with that old charcloe canister, here's a MUCH simpler way and better way to make your own "condensator" I was at a sporting goods store when I saw this and got the idea ... you can goto www.liquid-solutions.com to get the same camping tea mug that I am using to make my final version of my home-made "condensator". It's under coffee and tea products and it's called the "Tea-zer". Here's the deal ... the basket strainer fits under the screw-on lid, and makes the perfect filter basket! For this one I will experiment with fine steel wool and some of the stainless steel pot scrubbers (these are alot more coarse) and some brass pipe fittings. Just take a hole saw open up the lid you drink from all the way up and drill a hole in the top of the screw-on lid for the crank vent hose to come in. Take the strainer basket and poke some more holes on the sides, not the bottom, to increase the air-flow with a small nail with a piece of wood inside the basket as a back-board. Next put a small 1/4" to 1/2" patch of steel wool/scubbing pad on the bottom of the basket. Lastly, make a hole on the side as near to the top as you can just through both walls to make a vent for the fuel/air gases to escape, this is where it connects to the line going to the PCV valve which is connected to the intake. The nice thing about this too is that if at any time you decide to remove it, simply un-plug it and route the hose as normal and nothing of the original stuff had to be modified Here's some interesting info about the "condensator" http://www.condensatorsales.com/ An interesting EPA lab test of the "condensator" grrrrrrrrrrrr!! my boss's computer can't handle adobe acrobat I will try and find that test later but I believe it said that on OTR diesel engines and other large diesel's they saw an increase of 15 - 25% on MPG over the standard practice of venting the same stuff to the atmosphere (road draft tube) Dayn

I just got the re-build kit in today, and I must say the carb looked pretty good to begin with, but a carb is never "clean" till it's been boiled out and had every passage tested ... So then I took off the air horn first, and kinda messed with the diaphram valve just underneath it which I believe is the power valve ... well I set it aside and took the rest appart with no problems .... I just HAD to take off the powervalve ... so now the diaphram is torn, and of course the rebuild kit didn't have one :-p .... I am kinda hoping that either I can limp along with-out one or maybe I can temp fix it with some RTV and duct tape Any hope for me?

ROFLOL!!!! That must be one hellova spring to stretch that far!! I have just been hooking one at the little diaphram nearest the throttle linkage ... gonna try and get a stiffer spring today

Nope! only in 15" and bigger

Ummm actually did I mention being up ALL last night and losing 2 fingers in the process?!?!? LOL!!! j/k ... well anyway, thanks again edrach! Now all I need is to get a "Will Work for Lift!!" sign and get my AA lift ordered!!! I got tires, now just need the lift to install them

OMG YES!!! I can actually believe there IS an engine under there now when I step on it ... the only fly in the ointment so far is a weak throttle return spring, soon to be fixed :-p

WOOO HOOOO!!!!!!!!!!! I just got all my goodies last night for tha weba I got all the vac lines plugged except the one in the front, I connected one of the 2 that went onto the front side of the Hitachi, plugged the other, plugged the fuel return line (no problem I hope! ) and I used the hot lead from the original choke to goto the weba one, so far everything seems to be running right, gonna go run it again and see if it stays that way ... PLEASE let me know if I have anything to worry about since I couldn't find detailed info on hooking it up, I just winged it ... and I adjusted the mixture at just over 2 turns out .... MAAAAAAAAAAN it sounds NIIIIIIICE!!!! :banana: Thanks again!! Dayn

:banana: W(((o))))(((((o))))T!!!! :banana: I just need to find the local mastercraft dealer then!! I was gonna be mourning the day when my 14" ST's would wear-out and I would have to cut my finders to fit 225/75/R14 KumhoVenture MT's ... maybe now I can keep it down to 26" and not have the fender clearance problems/top heaviness of a overly tall suspension set up

If your in the North-West and need some of these, I finnally tracked them down, you need to goto your local Tire-ramma dealer, and tell them they are at a warehouse for the Tacoma Washington location ... I have been asking at Tire-ramma dealers for these discontinued tires for months, and thought I would share with other 14" pug owners!!

Hmmmm maybe I just don't know all the details, but couldn't you just use a plastic welder? I haven't done anything with grills, but I have repaired plastic fairings for motorcycles (last one was from my '01 ZX9r .. 900 ninja) with a very in-expensive welder I bought at harbor freight. I sold some of these fairings on ebay for a good price. I would think over time that the vibration would cause bondo to crack since it doesn't expand and shrink at the same rate as the plastic under it? Either way, that grill looks great! I can't wait to be able to get pics of my custom bumper up when I have my own computer on-line again ... especially once I have the Brat painted

Yikes!! $300 for the Hitachi?!?! Man ... if your gonna spend that kinda money, why not just get a weber for $80 - 100 more?

I would just scrap the Hitachi and get a weber ... I have not had the same problem, but I have had a problem that has persisted even though I have rebuilt the carb I have and one from the JY. So now I am getting a weber for more power since I am also lifting the brat and putting on some 27" Kumho mudders, and I will need the extra power. The Hitachi's aren't as scary as they look (mine is an '85 so it has the max in emissions gear) so don't be a fraid to take the top off

Nice!! I was about 5 when these came available ... too bad I had no idea at the time

Check this out! http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/brats/go-cart/go-cart.html

I know it's not on your list of colors, but to Quote Mc Jagger .... "PAINT IT BLACK!!" http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/specs/general/1985brat.html

Just wanted to give you that info ... I used it to remove the 20 yr old "brat" lettering and pin-stripe from my '85, and nothing removes that glue better! Just goto the local Walmart and get some

(Homer Simpson) hmmmmmmmmmmmm 15's .......... (Homer Simpson) I'm gonna have to get some of these soon too! but my first priorety: Lift the Brat!! P.S. .... check your PM's JM, thx!

hmmmm ... some good info there, but does it apply to the EA 81 motor as well? If it is my ASV, it looks completly different than what I have, and it's entirely made of plastic ... I guess I can just plug the line before it leaves the head? I am also concerned what is causing the back-fires (mine are almost impossible to hear) and I am currently searching for a good re-build kit. I got one that was sooooo close! but the size of the gaskets were off ... and now the guy says they don't have any other kits to order!!? If anyone can give me the parts store and part number for a good kit for a Hitachi DCZ-328 ? (EA 81 carb)

Ok, I think I might have found the problem with my loss in MPG ... I went to re-build the crab on my '85 brat and discoverd BIG chunks of black plastic in the air filter that had obviously become molten and some had even been sucked down the barrel of the carb!! I am not sure what the component is that started to burn up and get sucked in, but it has a 1/2" line connecting it to the air cleaner, and the other side of it goes into the left cyl head. It has two branched out pieces that look like they would connect somewhere on a different model, maybe a CA model, and these branches just dead-end and look factory. This valve or what ever it is looks like a top and has the extra "branches" comming out the top. I would take a pic of it but I just moved and I am not sure where my digi camera is ... anyone have ideas what would cause this problem or what this componet is?

WOOT!!!! I wana 2.0 or 2.2 Diesel for my brat!! If you can get ANY more info on this Ross, please do! I'd love to get a near bolt-in diesel

I don't have the specs yet for the Isuzu diesel engines found in the pup or trooper, but they can't be the same as the industrial use engines, and they seem to be quite rare, so atm the most viable engine for such a swap seems to be a 1.6L VW diesel, but they seem to be pretty tame in their stock form, and I don't know how much truth there is in it, but I have heard of bolt-on type mods that increase their performance considerably. And there are also the turbo models of these engines, but they seem to be too rare to be practical.

Just curious if there will be any problems using laquer based paint over the factory paint on my '85 brat ... I can get some decient black laquer and red lead primer for it, just hoping it won't be make the old paint bubble or anything

w00t! score one for Subaru!

I know you will like Missoula it's a great small town with some advantages of the city :cool: I am moving just a bit south of Msla soon to Hamilton (closer to work), but soon to Stevensville, so I am not too far from Msla ... maybe we can go explore the back roads around here ... I know about a few places, and there is a couple of guys around here that have justys that they take out wheel'n (wait till you see the monster justy!! ) Just PM me when your in town

sounds good mike, I have checked out an old thread on this subject and there is annother engine that is promising, but very pricey here's the link: http://www.dair.co.uk/ there is someone else also working on a ea-81 diesel conversion too: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/airsoob/message/30775 let us know how it works out! btw ... the diesel aircraft engine has a 15:1 CR, and has a very interesting 4 piston yet only 2 cylinders ... some sort of 2 stroke diesel that has 2 pistons in one cyl ... very interesting design