FlyB0y

Ok, so I already discovered some metal shavings in the bowl (stuff that snuck in from when I modded the intake ... drill shavings , etc) but I blew everything out, and things have improved, and short of a complete tear-down and re-assy, I'm wondering if this might be indicating a particular circuit in the carb ... here's what happends ... I warm it up, and drive it with no problems, I get on the road and first through 2nd are normal, then when I get into 3rd things seem to bogg a bit, and if I just stomp the petal, it really boggs down. If I am carefull, and feather the gas, it will get up to speed pretty much normal. I'm guessing this mean the secondaries are plugged ... any and all ideas welcome thx!

NO WAY!! they make that same nice DOT trailer tire in a 13 too!! and yes a 14" 205/75-14 6-ply!! now just need to find a place that sells them :-p

Where did you find this? I'd love to know what sizes they come it

NP! here's the tire I am talking about ... not sure why that second link didn't goto the specs page .. weird http://www.titanstore.com/store/elements/picts/TRAC_LOADER.gif

Here's the one I have ... only 16.5lbs!! http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?function=Search and with a 4000lb ($25 on ebay) block&tackel it lifts a 2500lb Brat out of icy/snow up to the frame :banana::burnout: :headbang:

Hmmm here's a better link with more details on the tires ... looks like it needs a 7" wide rim ... but if you have the 6-lug conversion, the wheel I saw appeared to have 6x5.5 ... http://www.titanstore.com/store/specbook.html

Ok, so I don't know how else to get closer to stock gearing other than shriking the tires, and I saw some 14" Trac Loader tires in the bed of a guy's PU the other day check out this link! Untill I can do something along the lines of 4.44's or something (not concidering T-case an option at this time), these look like some really good options for off-road only tires ... of course the problem is you need to carry extra wheels or trailer your off-roader, but just imagine these babys off-road! The tires at the bottom of the list are the ones I am talking about size - 25x8.5-14 NHS (too bad you can't take them on the road ... oh well, might be able to get away with it in town at least ) Here's the link: http://www.titanstore.com/store/specbook.html

Did you check out this one too? It's $50 more, and seems to be about the same, but again, it's still alot of weight IMO .... I think some people have tried this one out already too ... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50878&highlight=costco+winch

Well for $250, I don't see how you can go wrong ... I just can't see adding annother 100lbs to my front-end tho, each to their own

Ummmm where is the price? Anyway, I know that some models are the same manufacturer as a Mile Marker, not sure on this particular model, but my 2000lb one works just fine and is identical to the mile marker ... using mine with my 4000lb block&tackle, I was able to pull out my brat buried to the unibody in hard-packed snow/ice and I have at least an extra 300lbs of tool boxes, parts and tools so my car weighs around 2500+

Looking Good! :banana::burnout:

Darn ... I was gonna say that but some-body stole' my fire :-p

Here's a good description of how a Preasure-wave Supercharger works http://rigger-universe.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=808&sid=7d9c499ec2e79a8159feb8a1a1d23f28 "The exchange of energy in the pressure-wave supercharger occurs at sound velocity, which results in a practiclly instant response even at low engine speeds."

Wow! Check out what a search for a pressure-wave supercharger turned up http://www.whipplesuperchargers.com/content.asp?PageID=67 I'm REALLY interested in the twin-screw designed supercharger:slobber: :slobber:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BUILD-A-SUPERCHARGER-FOR-A-1-2-3-or-4-CYL-ENGINE_W0QQitemZ8045553410QQcategoryZ33741QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem I am VERY tempted to buy this ... looking at his feedback, the book sounds like it is legit, and I would LOVE to build my own supercharger for my EA-81 brat for only a few hundred! but I wanted to run this by all you guys to see if you have heard anything bad about it first ... I'm hoping that it will allow me to make a SC that would generate around 4-5 PSI of boost that I can attach to the top of my weber ... I am also hoping I can still incorprate my snorkle in this system ... I'm wanting to do something along the lines of the twingo and gain MPG as well as performance with the same basic engine, I'm not afraid of some porting/polishing and different pistons, but the idea is to not go so far as making it a gas guzzler. Here's a link about the Twingo SmILE supercharged 2 cyl boxer ... pretty interesting (not my cup of tea, but an interesting concept none the less): http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=it&u=http://www.esoro.ch/english/content/kernk/nhanst/smile/smile.htm&prev=/search%3Fq%3DTwingo%2BSmILE%2BMPG%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26sa%3DG

This sounds like alot of fun! I am curious, how long do the batteries last? (as in how long belofer they have to be recycled and replaced) How far should you be able to drive between charges? How long will it take to charge up? I'm also curious if you will have some sort of solar power generation at your house to charge it? It's making me think twice about making my brat a lifted beast

Yeah .. just too few or too weak of alternators

ty, ty :cool:

You could always beef up the modified fenders too, just add metal or fiberglass to the inside .. I am solving this problem with flares, (as soon as I get off my butt and put them on again :-p ) and I am with sweet82 ...cheap is good, and the flares bend and flex pretty good, I do like your idea of a molded fender, but I also agree that fiberglass is too brittle. Good luck what ever you do, I'd be interested in seeing what you come up with!

Well, I was never really happy with the whole "toilet flange" adaptor for the oval shaped top of my weber ... well I finally got the idea to use basicly the same roof flashing I have on the hood for the exit of the snorkle ... this one is the same size, just made of black plastic. Here are pics of the results (also this pic shows the new K&N filtered air box made from 4 x 6" ferncos ... enjoy!) P.S. almost forgot to add the crank breather to the filtered air ... adding pic ...

Yep! like I was saying, that was just a VERY rough drawing hehe ... basic conceptual stuff ... I will be building this ASAP .. so like in the next 2 mons I hope:rolleyes:

Ok, here's the basics ... in the pic the light grey is the canvas topper ribs in the stowed position, (they would be hinged at the bottom) the blue is in the deployed position ... the back top cross bar would be detachable, and some aditional cross bars for strength would also be detachable to make a square frame for the top with the canvas rolled up for the top piece at the front, and the side pieces would be rolled on the sides. The total cost of the entire thing shouldn't be more than $30-$50 including the aluminum tubing and canvas from a local military surplus

85 Brat 3" Mudrat Lift LSD rear diff 5spd D/R 28" Super Swamper TSL's on 14" 6 lug nissian wheels 2000lb HF winch with 4000lb block&tackle + 5/8" 8500lb Multiline II Rope(pulled me out when buried to the frame so far in sno-cone like snow) Custom bumpers (by me:-p) J&K Customs Skidplate (my design) Dual batteries w/ 96 AMP GM alt 100W Hella off-road lights (replace OEM high-beams) Snorkel Ok, here's my entry ... no more lame pic:banana: ***edit to save bandwidth***

Woot! I have a great basic design idea ... I'm gonna make one best I can from a pic it will be crude but give you all the general idea

I know! I can't wait till they are here ... it will give me an excuse to get it on the road