4wd93loyale

I have a 93 loyale wagon, and recently the ebrake will work for a couple of weeks then not work for a couple of weeks, if I turn the wheels and have someone pull the ebrake I can see it working near the brakes. I’m confused, please help lol

I was under the impression that once they start clicking they are done. Also I think the previous owner might have already replaced the front passenger side one, i have never rebooted an axle I always replaced them on my other cars. Does anybody have a link for the process?

I got a 93 4wd loyale that needs front left axle replaced. New to Subaru’s what’s the best method? Should I change all of them or just that one? Also how to stop cat from burning the boot? Thanks in advance

So I connected those wires under the drivers seat and nothing happened, at least that I noticed. The belt is stuck in the on position so it’s not all that bad, I wonder what those wires are for. There are none under the passenger seat that I can see.....

I will splice them together tomorrow and see if that resolves the problem. Thanks Dave and everyone else, this forum is golden

There is a wire under the driver seat that is cut in have and taped off, perhaps that’s the wire for the seatbelts?

So my seatbelts haven’t moved since I purchased my loyale, it’s a 93 wagon. How can I get them working? They are stuck in the on position

It’s a ‘93 and she’s running real nice, ran a new wire from the link to the fuse box.

What is the best way to do it? Replace that whole harness, or just that one white wire

The new wire goes in after the links, just got back from a 45 min ride no issues no burning smells. I just wont turn the ac on again lol, hopefully she last a while

Can I wire it the way I have it? It works, I have it tied in after the link and before the fuse box. Can that cause any problems if it’s just an old wire issue?

If I connect the new wire to the white wire below the link and than connect all the wires to the fuse box it works. That white wire has to power something else along the way

The white wire did have 12 volts below the link box, it faded the further down the white wire I went with the lowest being right before the spot behind the fuse box

If you also bypassed the white wire and got no results then that also points back to the fusible links as the problem. As Dave suggested, see if you get 12v coming out of the links box at the white wire. That will help nail this problem down.

If it was the fusible link this whole time I would feel pretty damn stupid lol, yeah I already bypassed that white wire with a new wire from the link to the fuse box and it didn’t work so I figured maybe that white wire spits off to something else I couldn’t see and bypassing it caused it not to work. I’m going to take a half day tomorrow and see what I can come up with I’m just happy innow know something... THANK YOU ALL FOR THE INFO YOU GUYS BEEN SHARING, if it wasnt for you guys I deff would have given up already

I changed all the fusible links with temp homemade ones except for the black one that was still in good shape and the red one. I’m going to get all new ones ordered today, I went over that white wire pretty good and didn’t see any discoloration or signs of a burn or bad spot. I jade the fender of and took the wires out of the black tubing, nothing looked bad at all wires were all in great condition they looked brand new

What I did was replace the white wire with another wire, I snipped right below the link box and right before the spot I showed and ran a new wire , and that didn’t work.

No I believe it was 9 or 8 I don’t remember the exact number. And in the behind the fender I poked it in 2 spots that were 11 and I believe the closer I got the the grommet where it goes in it got lower

This is where it splits before the fuse box, that is the wire that comes from the fusible link

The only way I can test them is if I pot power from battery to where it splits before the fuse box, otherwise nothing goes on without that power

Is there any way to post a pic in the chat

Okay I got it to run, took a wire and ran it from the battery to the white wire going into the fuse box. It’s crimped and splits into 2 wires about 8 inches before the box, that wire is only getting 6 and change in volts. When I put the wire from batt to that crimp all power came back and car started, so I ran a new wire from the link box to the fuse box and it didn’t work, so I’m guessing that white wire must split somewhere else in the harmess to power something else that’s keeping the car from starting..... Now what’s the best bet here? To regain proper voltage to the fuse box, somewhere along that run from the links to the split it loses half its volts

Which fuses are the always on fuses

Now I have power in the fuse box and my chime is back. Traces the fat wire all the way back to fuse box and it’s fine, just nothing when key turns, has power everywhere but there

Ok quick update.. I pulled the fender and traced the fat white wire and tested it in several different spots, it has 11.30 under the fender and 10 and change behind the fuse box if I test behind the fuses there is power bitnnothong on the actual fuses.... what do you guys think, and also my ignition is no longer chiming with the key in, I’m thinking maybe the switch