subieroo
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Posts posted by subieroo
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I have a few concerns with my upcoming EJ swap, time to start thinking about collecting all the various bits...
In Australia we never had any ER27 vehicles which is what is required for donor pressure plate I believe. I can find aftermarket plates online in America but they don't ship over here. I know OEM EA82 plates are still available from the dealer but have no idea what to ask for in regards to part no. for ER27. How are people in Australia doing this swap?
I've also heard I need the flywheel from the XT6 but can I just have the step on my EA flywheel changed?
Thanks in advance
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On 9/13/2019 at 1:50 AM, Rampage said:
I too have built quite a few large speaker enclosures (18" woofers, horn and cone mids and tweeters) years ago.
That speaker area is not very large so foam is a good idea. You do not want to seal it because then it would require a tuning port to match the volume of the enclosure to the resonant frequency of the speaker.
First, I would either put a 1/4 inch of foam under the rubber lining, or glue it to the metal underneath it so it doesn't vibrate against the metal. Then, I would glue a layer of foam on the bottom and sides of that rubber lining.
Too bad those studs aren't longer, you could make your bracket out of wood.
If you use sheet metal bend the edges up to make it more rigid.Good ideas, I'll be using them when I do the install for sure.
Bracket will probably have to be sheet metal.
On 9/13/2019 at 8:41 AM, heartless said:do keep in mind that under that rubber liner is the access for the rear strut mounts.. you do not want to make it difficult to get in there in the future.
Absolutely.. struts are first on the suspension Todo list...
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On 9/11/2019 at 9:30 AM, heartless said:
LOL, being as you are new here, you have no idea how funny this is to those of us who have been here a long time.. trust me, He was being gentle...
in all seriousness tho.. the stock bracket is just a stamped metal piece that bridges the tower and holds the speaker.. there is no such thing as acoustically sealing a speaker in a Subaru. In fact, I don't know of any vehicle - unless it is a really high end luxury boat (Bentley? Rolls Royce?) - that does such a thing.
Yeah maybe I used the wrong term. I'm not looking for high end stuff, I just wondered if the OEM bracket was moulded to fit the shape of the strut tower enough to create some sort of sealed space for reduced vibration... The doors are already set up that way. The seal around the window glass and the plastic wrap are enough to stop distortion, meanwhile the strut tower contains large ventilated areas. I've made enough speaker enclosures to know at least the basic requirements for what's "acceptable" and what sounds like tinny, shaking garbage.
I'll probably end up making my own bracket and surrounding it with foam or something.
On 9/11/2019 at 11:16 AM, GeneralDisorder said:High horse? The speakers in my 1986 Trans Am are original. They are (I think) blown. They vibrate like crazy with too much bass. I am not familiar with this "high horse" you speak of. My daily horse is factory ride height.
And yeah. I'm frequently an a$$.
Just please remember - there are NO stupid questions. ONLY stupid people.
GD
If you enjoy blown out disgusting stock speakers, good for you. Literally any solution is better than stock if you have any respect for your eardrums.
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4 hours ago, GeneralDisorder said:
"Acoustic seal" on a 94 Impreza?!? Hahahahahahaha.
Surely - you jest.
GD
Geez I just want something less likely to vibrate and annoy the crap out of me, no need to be an rump roast about it. Get off your high horse GD. I don't see how you're being helpful at all
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2 hours ago, GeneralDisorder said:
C'mon Padawan - buy a speaker and make a bracket out of some sheet goods. Even plastic.... whatever. Get a sawzall and get on with it. We really need to hold your hand for this?
GD
If there's an OEM bracket that accousticly seals the strut tower up perfectly and I can get it from the wreckers for $10 then I'm going to pick that option. My current work schedule is too busy to casually fab up some brackets or I would have just done that like I did for my L wagon.
I'd just like to look at options before I do the obvious and make my own.
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35 minutes ago, heartless said:
there is supposed to be a bracket that the speaker mounts in, if I am not mistaken..
How would I go about obtaining or making this bracket? What donor vehicles to look for or what to ask the dealer? Cheers
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G'day, I have a 1994 Impreza wagon, base model I think (AUDM 1.8L ”sportswagon"), it has 6" speakers in the front as you would expect, but I'm at a loss to how the rears are fitted.
The grilles are up on the strut towers, come off easy enough and there's the wiring for the rears and a cavity that would obviously fit a 6ish inch speaker but no mounting hardware. There are two bolt studs toward the back of the car and one toward the front lower in amongst that rubber insulation that don't match up with any speaker config I know of, looks like they mount a fascia plate of some kind. See attached pictures.
Google proved useless even when searching for the original Legacy wagon rear setup that I've been told is the same. What do I have to do/find/make to get speakers in these things??
Cheers, Ash
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After a year of driving my poor tired old L wagon I have finally found a suitable Soobie for daily driving.
1 previous owner, serviced every 5K, did everything. Not a squeak, leak or clunk to be heard, absolutely mechanically pristine.
Non interference ej18 with single range AWD box
Not a lot planned for it, just larger tyres and a nudge bar and maybe dual range eventually
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32 minutes ago, el_freddo said:
Yeah wow that’s different ^^
I understand the leverage on the bolts. I’ve got a three inch lift and have so far been lucky with my captive nuts in this area - I did have to weld one when I removed the lift kit to repair another issue.
The real problem here is the short cuts the builders take. One bolt, one block. The three blocks down there should’ve been tied into one block to reduce the chance of that leverage occurring. It’s something I would still like to do to mine, and the same on the rear end with the three bolts on the rear side of the K frame - tie these together then forward to the single bolt out the front of the K frame.
That to me is an ideal lift kit build.
So I reckon you’re right that your strut block has no camber built into the block, so it’ll be like factory if not worse.
Cheers
Bennie
Thanks Benny. I think getting something like that made out of one piece might be a good idea. I'll talk to my welding mates... She's being retired from daily driving tomorrow and is going up on the jack stands for a while, getting a bit of a suspension overhaul
Ash
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Here is the lift kit instructions
Kit was made by Out of Town 4WD.
Yes I put the DF and PF blocks back on the correct sides. That's the only marking on them.
Attached photo is from the back of the instructions
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14 hours ago, el_freddo said:
Well DF would be drivers front, PF the passenger’s front.
That makes me wonder what company made the lift kit. Scorpion Subaru used to build kits way back when, which would probably fit with the era that your lift kit was fitted.
The quote was just his “red tape” stuff. Basically there’s no structural mods, I’m not using an adaptor plate, and factory emissions with the EJ meets everything he needs to see. I’m going to upgrade to rear discs and he’s happy with that too.
I was meant to ask about this earlier:
What do you see as being so dumb about this? You’ve moved the engine crossmember down, this changes the suspension control arm swing points in regards to the radius rod mount.
To drop the gearbox/lift the body off the gearbox, you must drop the radius rod mounting plate as this incorporates the gearbox crossmember mount, otherwise the rear end of the gearbox will be pointing upwards which could cause binding with the Uni joints on the tail shaft.
Clear as mud?
Cheers
Bennie
Dropping the radius rod mounts instead of extending the radius rods creates a huge amount of leverage on the 3 bolts that hold the rod. Under heavy braking or rough off-roading they easily bend and snap. I've had to have welding done as a result, others on this board have too after dropping the mount. It's a recipe for disaster with a 4WD rig, way too much horizontal force acting on 3 wimpy bolts that were never ment to bear the load anyway, the radius rod plate transfered all that directly to the chassis.
I'm almost certain the gearbox crossmember can be dropped without moving the radius rod plates, might need some rearranging of bushings but they are not permanently attached to each other
I will send more info on the kit when I get home.
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2 hours ago, el_freddo said:
Talk to an engineer regarding EJ conversions. I’ve spoken to one about my future brumby conversion and he’s given me the green light and a price (~$1500).
On top of the strut blocks, on the plate you can see from the engine bay, is there an arrow or the letters L, R or E (E possibly one one side of the top plate indicating engine)? These sorts of marks can indicate the orientation of the blocks - if they’ve got the built in camber.
Cheers
Bennie
Unfortunately only marked "DF" and "PF" for each side.
Was the $1500 quoted just in the certificates or does that factor in the cost of your donor parts? $1500 is what I was hoping to get away with on the mechanical aspects, real bummer if it's double the cost for the red tape.
Old girl might hang on to the EA a little longer
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1 hour ago, 5MileDrive said:
Hello! I have just came across a '91 Subaru Loyale. The tran is a manual 5spd with push button 4wd, and I've been noticing that it's popping out of 1st and 3rd gear, as well as grinding and making plenty of noise in the gear box while shifting.
I was thinking about getting a new transmission out of a donor car, but I'm not exactly sure what transmissions will work with my ea82. I was doing a little research and I think the dual range 5mt transmission would work, but I couldn't figure out if I would keep my push button 4wd active. I am also planning to upgrade to a 2.2 ej22, so I was hoping to find a transmission that would fit my ea82, as well as fit (and maintain the power of) the ej22.
Is this possible?
As far as I know, push button 4WD system only works with the single range box. Dual range requires an additional mechanical arm at the front of the gearbox to move the range selector and is far too clunky to be operated by a solenoid.
Someone else please correct me if I'm wrong
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On 8/27/2019 at 6:57 PM, el_freddo said:
Have you got a side view of the strut block? It could be offset.
The scrubbing on the outer edge of the front wheel could be from the nose living on take off, creating a positive camber situation, wheel spin will exacerbate the wear on the outer edges.
Tall tyre wall and low pressures will make the tyre roll onto the outer edge of the outer tyre when cornering hard.
And if you run an EJ22, that extra power can do all of the above if you’re not AWD.
Further, the 20% rule is bogus if you’re changing to an engine not offered in your vehicle from factory. It was based on the old holdens and fords when dropping a larger capacity engine of the same configuration/model designation into the vehicle. So going from EA82 to EJ20 requires engineering - most likely depending on which state you’re in.
Nachaluva from Subi Lift Oz will be able to knock you up a set of front lift blocks too, he’s based in Melbourne and may have seen his stuff on Facebook. Let him know that Bennie sent you in his direction as he doesn’t usually do L series stuff - but the front strut block is basically the same.
Cheers
Bennie
Excellent I'll get in touch with him. Blocks are back on the car, but on closer inspection there did appear to be some sort of offset... Not much though. Two studs offset by about 3mm.
I found the original documents for the lift kit. Someone paid $680aud in 1995 for it... It specifies that there are a passenger and driver strut block but does not give any instruction on what direction to orientate the block. This kit also drops the radius rod mounts which is really dumb...
Also interesting is on the back of the sheets the original owner has written "Friday $100 bend struts". I have no idea what atrocity was committed here but it doesn't sound good!
In regards to the EJ swap that's disappointing. What I read on the RMS sheet only said "same family of engines" but I've been back and forth between contradicting documents so many times I don't know what's ok and what isn't... Very tiring trying to keep everything legal.
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11 hours ago, DaveT said:
I had the lower ball joint do that noise.
I have also had a ball joint do a similar noise
You could try removing the sway bar links and cable tying the bar up out of the way to test noises associated with it. Top bushings in my links went, and caused a bit of a clunk noise on certain bumps. It also made driving on corrugations a nightmare as it would cause the wheels to hop, ended up deleting the whole thing
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On 8/28/2019 at 3:38 AM, FerGloyale said:
There is a hose from the heater pipe to the carb base. This is the one for carb warmup and anti icing in cold. This hose can be eliminated. simply cap the nipple at the heater pipe. Other end needs no cap. This hose gets ditched all the time in Weber swaps.
Then, there is a hose from the thermostat housing to the top of the block, under intake in center. This hose is needed to prevent air bubbles from forming in the top of the block where the coolant passage for crossover is. This hose is actually kinda important, although it can be capped of for a quick fix. If this is the one you mean, it more about the air bubble than anything. Tapping in a brass fitting should wokr fine, just make sure it will clear the manifold.
There should not be a hose from the thermostat area to the Carb. If that is the case, someone has rerouted your coolant lines.
Yes that second hose is the one I'm talking about, the crossover bleeder, didn't realise it terminated below the carb... I have had the OEM hose here collect rust in the elbow and burst... twice (used high pressure oil line instead third time).
I'll probably cap the bleeder for now until I get fittings, and also delete that other hose you mentioned. I'm sure it will crack/leak at some point. Thanks
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2 hours ago, 201motels said:
The rollbar... and the wheels/tires... I, I just don't get it. Good luck with that sale.
Just realised the rear rims look like stock steelies that have been flipped or chopped/welded.... Please tell me I'm wrong
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2 hours ago, idosubaru said:
Scott is a long time member here making lift bits for a long time now. Ive bought mine from him. SJR lifts.
Beautiful, thank you
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As the title suggests, the little steel outlets at both ends of this hose have finally rusted up to the point that no amount of hose clamps will save it. There's about half of the original material left on both of them.
I'm thinking of drilling them out, tapping new holes and screwing in new brass fittings... Has anyone else had luck doing this? I live in a pretty warm part of the country, how essential is this particular circuit? Assume it's for warming up the carby barrels... Can it be done without at all?
Sorry for no pictures at the moment. Thanks guys
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10 hours ago, idosubaru said:
Okay this looks like a front strut - wide springs, I think I see a third mount stud poking out the back that's barely visible and a castle nut suggests it came off the front....at first I was thinking it was a rear due to the two obvious studs on the top.
Yes, it needs offset for camber.
"engineered" and they didn't check camber? that's funny!
Yes it is a front strut. And I thought it was dodgy, just dropping the strut down at the exact same angle... Are there still kits being made by members on this board? I'd love to source a set of blocks with proper offset.
I personally think the engineering process in Australia is a joke. Don't need to engineer a complete engine swap if within 20% displacement but cannot possibly run 8% OD wheels without paying some monkey to say "she'll be right"
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Not sure how I feel about that one
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G'day, here's the struts off my 4x4 wagon, 2" lift was installed in the 90s and was engineered... This spacer doesn't look like it accommodates for camber at all and is probably the cause of my excessive positive camber? Pretty sure this a "redneck lift" block...
Thoughts? Also just on eyeballing are those stock EA82 struts? The springs are extremely soft and I'm swapping them for height adjustable factory struts.
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2 hours ago, el_freddo said:
Dunno about dealer. Just good quality Japanese bearings. And remove the “seals”, then pack/replace with quality high temp grease.
Replace one “seal” on the bearing and install with the open side facing into the middle of the hub. Throw a bit of grease in the centre area of the hub, then the spacer followed by the other bearing. Then your actual hub seals then the drive shaft.
Don’t forget to prime the seals with some rubber grease so they don’t burn out.
I do hope the bearings are the issue. As they’re relatively easy to fix.
As for the four water crossings a day, that’s interesting. If they’re shallow (under the hub), you should be right, if they’re deeper than hub height and you’ve been on the brakes or straight off a main rd, you might want to consider cooling the hubs off before you cross through the water.
Cheers
Bennie
Beautiful. I do hope it's wheel bearings too. Came home today, gearbox shifts a but nicer with the top up but noise is still there and definitely louder now on the side I didn't pull and repack the other day. Steering and pedals feel rumbly. Brakes now grab on a full lock turn so it's looking like the case..
I have a whole second set of bearings on hand (same manufacturer though) so I'll chuck them in for now and go about sourcing a higher quality set.
Clutch kit has arrived too so at least I can replace all that and rule out those bearings too.
The river crossing is a nightmare. Most of the time above the axles especially on the 27's but now I'm running my "legals" (24ish) the axles would be getting a bit of a dip. So many bearings and joints have been claimed by our crossing over the last 20 years
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20 hours ago, GeneralDisorder said:
It's a HG failure. Junk it. Not worth fixing.
GD
12 hours ago, idosubaru said:HG. H6's are less common so people don't see many, but with age and miles HG failure isn't rare. In the US a sometimes reasonable option is to swap a $600 JDM engine.
Live in Australia so things don't look cheap, quick look around seems to be $1500 AUD locally...
How long do you think this thing has? At 280KM on the odo I think. I messaged her about it and she reckons she's going to try keeping it on the road but I think things are about to go downhill fast. The scary temp spikes started about 2 months ago and while they are rare it is becoming more frequent.
Glad it's not mine..
EJ swap down under
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
I'm mainly thinking EJ18 at this time, not the common EJ22 everyone seems to do. Thing is I have a brand new exedy EA82 clutch kit, would be nice to drop that in at least for a while if it can handle the torque. I'll send that bloke an email too
Do you have a link to a readup on the gearbox guts thing? Sounds like a good option if I can find the right bits
Thanks
Ash