navyhoosier

Hey..thanks!! I've already taken off some of the interior trim because I was rooting around in there trying to figure out what the heck was going on. How did you go about making the connector at the spray nozzle. I'm assuming you have to take off the interior trim panel and you'll see it. So far I've taken off interior trim hoping to get "eyes on" the leak, only to figure out the hose was inside the frame. Thanks..hope to be able to root around in there again soon. NH

Awesome info. I haven't messed with this any further yet. Was the flex boot hard to take off or any tricks? Did you get generic hose at the autoparts Thanks NH

Does the shake get worse the harder you push the brake? As in proportional to the push effort? Have you taken it to a newly paved road and tried this at various speeds? Am I correct that you have one wheel with ABS tone ring on it and another front wheel without it? I would check and make sure there aren't some random parts still hanging around from the broken tone ring (although you would think this would make it shake all the time..not just when braking) NH

Yeah...my hope is we'll keep the car a long time. It's been in the extended family since it was bought brand new, but it's been several years since anyone has really focused on keeping the car nice. We got it for super cheap and I've got a bunch of teenagers that I'm trying to teach to be decent mechanics... And the rear defroster isn't working either (I'll start a post about that soon). So being able to spray may help clear the back sooner. I think my next step is to dig in there and see if I can find replacement line locally by the foot or if I'm going to have to order the Subaru part. NH

Here is what the part looks like.

I'm going to be trying this job in a month or so. I was planning on trying to use a pass through socket. I've done these on other vehicles but never a Subaru. Any other tips? What size nut is is? NH

Can you send me the link to the "handshake" that you used? I've got a 96 Impreza outback 2.2 and I'm not having any luck with getting the handshake to work. NH

I have a split system. Just got back from the Subaru Dealership 86655FA080 is the part number that is leaking. It would appear is a solid hose with no connections from the sprayer to the pump on the rear reservoir. If I get the subaru part I also get the boot that connects the hatch to the main body. I'm considering trying to go ahead and dig into the trim to find the connection to the sprayer and the connection to the pump. Perhaps it's some type of flexible hose that I can get at the parts store. My "boot" seems to be in good condition. I asked the parts guy if you just had to "fish" the hose through the body and he seemed to agree that was the only way to do it. Any other input wuold be appreciated. NH

I'll try to update my pictures better tomorrow. I just got done reading a bunch of those other threads. I guess I'm glad that mine only leaks when I try to spray the rear washer and not when I accelerate. I have a 96 Subaru Imprezza outback AWD hatchback JF1GF4859TH814714 My understanding is that I have a rear reservoir for washer fluid and that the rear system is completely separate from the front. I mention this because in ALL the other threads I've read, they seem to talk about one combined system. If anyone can clear this up definitely for me..that would help. I'm going to look through all the threads again tomorrow..it's getting late and I don't think I'm going to be able to stay awake to the new year. Happy new year!!! NH

Anyway...I tried to feel up inside the body hole and couldn't feel a hose or anything. Standing by on this end. NH

So we got the trim off and we have found the body hole that the leak is coming from...and I can't figure out how to get in there or "what next"

So I chatted with the parts guy at my local Subaru for a bit. He says that he only see's the seal on the reservoir and that should seal everything up. Nothing underneath the "three pronged bracket" I've ordered the seal from Subaru and will try that. If it still leaks I'll leave the subaru seal on it and add RTV. NH

Yes...I have the middle one. The entire experience is starting to make more sense. When I swapped things out, I didn't remember a seal being under the "three pronged holder" that holds the reservoir. Since I had never done it before I was trying to be careful and make sure all parts out got put back in the right order. There was a small o ring (that was very brittle) on the "extension" from the reservoir that goes down into the pump. There was a replacement for that in the kit. I put it all together and it started leaking pretty quick. Not as bad as before the pump swap...but pretty quick. Then I tried to think that perhaps it had been worked on before and not done right. Especially since a rubber gasket fit so nicely in the round gasket grove on top of the pump and "under" the three pronged holder. Although I remember thinking the gasket didn't stick up much (if any) outside of the grove. Putting the rubber gasket it didn't seem to affect the leak rate. Putting the crush washer in dramatically lowered the leak rate. Anyway...I think I'm going to check with Subaru about the correct gasket for the extension going down into the pump. Also inspect everything closely and take pics to see if something is tweaked. If nothing comes out of that, then I think I'll proceed to RTV. The suggestion to let it set up for a day makes sense. I don't have a heated garage...I'm in Indiana. Think temp makes much difference. Perhaps I can pick a milder day. Thanks for all the help. During the pump swap we did quite a bit of cleaning, because we are figuring there are other leaks we need to address as well. Really would like to get this thing to stop leaking. NH

So...I scrolled through the troubleshooting manual and didn't see the procedure to pull codes from the transmission. http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Legacy_Outback/1996/Service Manual/TROUBLESHOOTING SECTION.pdf I also looked through the transmission section of the service manual and didn't see it there as well. http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Legacy_Outback/1996/Service Manual/ The troubleshooting section was massive...so I suppose I could have missed it. I didn't find where they talked about the light flashing to indication trouble, but they seemed to want you to hook up a special Subaru diagnostic tool. Anyway...I was hoping to find it before I played with this more tomorrow. Any other thoughts or tips are appreciated. NH

Thanks for the tips. I'll try to get after this tomorrow and see if I can get it to work. Hopefully I can find that connector to try and ground. NH

Hey..thanks for the great picture and idea for RTV. I'll probably try to try this tomorrow. So, are you suggesting RTV without the copper washer? The copper was did cut down on the leak. Made it much less, in fact I thought it was fixed until I looked at it the next morning and saw a small leak where my finger is. NH

So..I finally got around to digging into the dash. First time for everything. The key is to pull out the cup holder, which exposes some screws and then the rest pops off pretty easy to expose the other mounting screws. Then I got the cig ligher out and did a test light test. power came to the cig lighter and stopped on one side of the "fuse thing" on the back. The other side had no power. So...I removed the insulation disk between the contacts on the back, thereby removing the protection of the failed "fuse thing". Cig lighter now works like a champ, although I "only" have the protection of the fuse in the fuse panel. (at least this is my theory now...anyone with other ideas please set me straight) Anywho...I told everyone to only charge cell phones and NOT to use any crazy adapters or other high draw things. Thanks for the help on here guys. NH

Thanks for the tip, I will give it a try later tonight

I'm at 258k miles. The struts have lots of grease on them and after I rubbed for a while I found that they were "Subaru" parts. So...perhaps they are original. My gut says I should put everything in nice and new and likely I'll never have to think about this again. I don't have much experience with struts and the associated hardware, so I'm not sure if I could figure out if they are really broken or not. Or if they are getting ready to fail. NH

I'll have to play around with this over the weekend. I'm not familiar with the "manual" button, but I'll certainly give it a shot. NH

I've got all 4 new monroe struts to put on and before I go digging into the job, I'm trying to figure out if I should just replace all the boots and mounting kits too, or if there is a way to test them. My pickle is that nobody carries these items locally. I suppose I could return them if I ended up not using them. Anyway, is there a way to check them before digging into this job? Am I correct that the mounting kit is some kind of bearing? https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/monroe-strut-mate-strut-boot-kit-63619/18570485-p https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/monroe-strut-mate-strut-mounting-kit-902924/18570446-p

Johnathan909, Thanks for the great information. I'm going to spend some time looking through the TSM and find the applicable pages. Brakes and bleeding: The car comes to us and I had the teens driving it for a bit. Also trying to teach them do do their own mechanic work. I simply hadn't had the time to get in an look at the brakes properly and finally one of them complained about brakes making noise. Lots of rust, pads unevenly worn..etc etc. We had also been slowly loosing some brake fluid...somewhere. So I got new brake lines, calipers, rotors, pads and had them change everything out. We use a suction device hooked to air compressor to pull the fluid through each of the calipers until everything was running good and clear. Amazing how smooth it stops now with all new brakes. Two cars vs deer...wow. I've taken out a couple over the years, but never two in one year. NH

Thanks for the responses. Just got off the phone with local Subaru dealer and the OEM part number is 86710FA040. Guy claims there are three of them left in the country. $30ish bucks https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru__/SOCKET-COMPLETE-POWER-OUTLET-NO1/49300557/86710FA040.html Anyway...sounds like the smart move is to find the page that covers this in the TSM (thanks for that link) and try to get the trim off and see if I can check/replace the fuse that is on the back. I suppose I could try and try to check that power is coming in the wire that hooks up to the socket. Then, if that doesn't work and I have power coming to socket, go ahead and get the replacement oem part. Is the fuse on the back like the rest of the fuses in the fuse box? NH

Thanks for all the responses to my other questions. I've done quite a bit of shade tree mechanicing...but this is my first Subaru. Car was bought new in the extended family and has been passed down to one of my teenagers now. Anyway, it has always done the 16 flashes thing with the AT temp every time you start it. I changed the fluid and the filter and perhaps noticed it shifted a little smoother, although it has never seemed to act up or shift hard. Here is something interesting. I also get an ABS light as soon as I roll 10 feet or so. Light stays on. I've followed the procedure and get no blinking light. Apparently you are supposed to get some sort of blinking that says system is ok, even if no codes. I get nuttin.. I've attached the procedure that I followed to attempt to get tranny codes. And...no blinking. I wonder if there is some place where the two tests "cross" or share a common ground or.. who knows. For while I thought the cigarette lighter and the OBD II connector were not working. Turns out the port for the OBD is a little finicky and you have to push hard on one side to get it to connect. Then it works fine. Least little thing will disconnect. No codes on OBD. I went to my diagnostic tool and looked at all the data points it can read, everything listed seems to be passing data and changing as engine speed changes. So...the only other electrical oddness things are a not working cigarette lighter, (with good fuse and good OBD) and sometimes the air conditioning compressor seems to come on, even if A/c isn't selected. Every once in a while the blower for a/c won't work in any position, but a whack to the underside of passenger dash will bring it back to life. Anyone have any ideas? NH crazy procedure to read transmission code 2 small doc.pdf

Hey...good luck fixing all this stuff. I'm particularly interested in the Transmission codes and how you got them. I've got a 1996 Impreza Outback AWD 2.2 and I tried a procedure get the codes from the transmission and nothing blinked. Interestingly enough..nothing blinks when I try to pull ABS codes. So...if you can pass on some info on how you got your tranny codes I would appreciate it. NH