Zip Tie

I checked all the old rings and they're all at .50mm. the limit is .35mm. So, new rings it is. Should I still worry about the copper color in the wrist pin bearings?

I pulled the pistons this morning and besides being really dirty the look fine. After I clean them up I'll get a better look at the ring lands to check for cracks. One thing that did catch my eye was the condition of the wrist pin bearings. Correct me if I'm wrong, but they shouldn't have that copper color to them.

I thought that sounded a little weird. I'll have time this weekend to pull the pistons and check the rings. Thanks for all your help

GD I understand. And the more I clean on the block the more signs I see of someone already having cracked it open (ultra black pushing out of the seams). I took the heads in to an engine shop today to get resurfaced, cleaned and pressure tested. The old dude in there took a quick look at them and said it'd probably need new valve guides and seals and it was probably burning oil pretty good. I showed him this picture and he said there might be a problem with the piston skirts rubbing on the cylinders (see photo, 5 o'clock in the cylinders). He said I definitely needed to check the rings because the clean sections on the piston meant oil has been getting through there. And measure the piston skirts at the same time.

I found this guys YouTube channel last night and he seems to be doing what I am going to do. It seems pretty informative and straight forward (he doesn't appear to measure anything on camera, which is a little concerning). What do you guys think? https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCagMQRJltkIanI3KK1o5D7w

Any idea what these mean? I know LKQ is a auto dismantler, but does this mean there's a warranty on this engine? The sticker is on top of the block and the coin thing is on the back of the passenger side head.

I totally agree with you, GD knows what he's talking about, no question there. That's why I'm asking these questions. I don't want to do all this work, put this engine in and have a spun bearing or something else I could have addressed when the engine was taken apart.

What are the issues/mistakes I'm going to encounter if I do crack the case? The o-rings I've already replaced have been completely brittle, so I want to replace the oil and coolant o-rings in the case at least. Please point me in the right direction so I don't waste my time.

NPR rings are better than OEM Subaru rings?

Ok. So looking at the picture of the pistons would you suggest I just get new piston rings?

I'm planning on going all the way in and replacing the crank and rod bearings if need be. I want to make sure this engine is good to go for a long time when I put it in the car. I don't want any "what ifs".

I know this is heresy to most of you here, but it's happening. No, I can't just go find one for under $300. I live in rural northern California and this one took almost a year of looking to buy locally. I got it already pulled from "a good running car" from the junkyard. The cars odometer read 268000. They didn't have compression numbers so I checked them (all 4 around 100). So I squirted a little oil in the cylinders and the numbers went up to around 120-130. I pulled the heads and there is carbon build up on the valves and pistons (although the pistons are clean in places on the edges). So, what I'm wanting to know is what's a good rebuild kit and any tips or tricks to make this engine come back to nearly new again.

Alright. Thanks again.

When I do the head gaskets, do I need new head bolts? I've seen people say yes and no.

Ok, so I need a starter. What are good/bad compression numbers for this engine? I've seen numbers ranging all over the place.

Thanks for all the info and input guys. I'm going to do the head gaskets along with all the other stuff mentioned. It would be my luck that they blow as soon as I put it in the car. Right now I'm working on figuring a way to do a compression check while it's on an engine stand (cold obviously). Also, what numbers am I looking for?

Alright. I'd like to check the condition of the cylinders at the same time. It's pretty oily on the underside, I can't see any sign of coolant and the oil doesn't show signs of contamination. Car-part may have one with lower miles but I only paid $200 and it's already on the stand in my garage.

Right after I posted this I found a ej22 at my local junk yard. It was pulled from a 95 legacy that was rear ended and totaled. It has 268,000 on it but was checked out before being pulled and was labeled "a good runner". They couldn't find any compression numbers for it though. I'm just gonna replace head gaskets, timing belt assembly, cam seals and main seals. Anything else I should replace?

I have a 91' loyale with a ej18 in it. I want to put a ej22 in there and am looking for an engine to rebuild. Is this a worthy candidate? http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemDescV4&item=273759940181&category=33615&pm=1&ds=0&t=1578590348143&cspheader=1

I went through the hole in the rear cargo floor area and squeezed the clips out. They are not easy to get to. Thanks for the help guys.

I guess this piece was loose and my toddler found it and removed it for me. The white pieces spin. So is there a position they need to be in? How do I get it back on?

Here's another picture of the impreza rail. Anyone have any ideas?

This is the rail on the other side of the impreza seat. No flat bar to mount to, it attaches with that bolt in the top of the pic.

I've done the reading on the process of the seat swap from kdixey but I'm a little confused looking at the bottom rails on the impreza seats. I'm seeing only one bent rail that I can attach the loyale rails to. Am I missing something right in front of me?