Auz23

I'll give this a check and let you know !

Hey team, I recently changed my oil and redid wiring for my crank angle sensor my car is performing and idling better than it was before, but it periodically has a rougher idle (more vibrations when idling) - usually, it is remedied by flipping the car into neutral and then back into drive which I find really odd. Once in a while, the idle goes a tad lower but usually, it's around the 700-800 rpm mark which is good. any ideas what could be causing this? maybe a dirty IAC? maybe spark plugs/spark plug wires? I'm at a loss!! Thanks in advance! Edit - My car is a 1991 Subaru liberty/legacy with 161'000km on the clock (100'040 miles)

Update! Today I soldered in a used connector I got from the wreckers. I did a test of wiggling the wires near the connector when the car was running and sure enough it was near the connector - the engine shut off I soldered in new cable and connector, and my car runs like a dream now. The idle is no longer as rough and there is no stalling. More power and response from the engine which is great! Thanks so much for all your help and expertise. Project successful! (So far) I will post an image later Edit: Not sure if i didnt notice before, but now on a warm start the revs of the car go straight to 650-800/ the revs that the car usually has when running. its very smooth, but I'm used to the 1200 revs on startup that slows to 650-800 after 20-30 secs. Im guessing its something to do with a proper connection now? unsure as to why the crank angle sensor would change the idle speed but anywho... Feels great

Thanks for that suggestion! I will probably give that a go. just for reference, would this work? http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Shielded_Wire_Splicing/S_Wire_Splice.html thanks for all your help, you've been a lifesaver

since it is near the connector, I was thinking of splicing in a new connector maybe 6 inches back from the wiring; i have one available. I would strip the wires first of the insulation then use heat shrink insulation to reinsulate the wires. I'm no auto electrics expert but do you think that would work fine?

I just got off the phone to the mechanic, he said to wiggle around the wiring and see if the car stalls out when it's running. sure enough, it did That all but confirms for me that there is a dodgy wire near the connector? should I get a professional to change that out? I'm pretty confident with wiring and soldering, and my old man is pretty good at it too

See above image, or am i wrong in assuming that is the layout of the connection

i was under the impression that this was how the sensor worked, but correct me if i'm wrong

I used a DC volt setting on my multimeter as that is what I was Instructed to do, the reading hasn't changed at all since the first test I unplugged it and then plugged it back in again and my no-start condition turned into a starting condition last night, and it has cranked fine ever since - does that mean that it is most likely a dodgy wire near the connection? It is worth mentioning that it is a 3 pin crank angle sensor, like this one here. I'm not entirely sure about them but usually, don't they require voltage?

Hey team I am just wondering how I would go about testing my crank angle sensor and my wiring - I've been having stalling issues and starting issues since i checked the sensor last night and reconnected it, with a check engine code for crank angle sensor I have a multimeter, checked the wiring connector and it had continuity, but with the key in the on position I could not find any voltage running through - it had 0.05v running through all the connectors which obviously is nothing - but in the workshop manual, it says voltage should be zero as well. This is different from what I've learnt that usually there should be voltage running through it when the key is in the 'on' position. I have attached the page of the manual where that is found Thanks in advance!

thanks mate! I just checked the terminal wiring and found that there is continuity flowing through but no constant 5-12v when the key is in the on position, getting 0.05 dcv through all of them, assuming that is nothing major probably the constant power wire, must be a break somewhere thanks mate

I unclipped the sensor last night to test with a multimeter, plugged it back in and today while driving I had 3 absolute stalls and lots of uneven rpm (only drove around 1km then went home because I was worried about the stalling). The wiring was fine from the multimeter test so should I assume that sensor needs replacing?

I'll check that and my spark plugs, any ideas on how I should go about checking the pump? That I will check asap

Yeah the CEL illuminates when the ignition is on, on that I actually plugged in the read memory port and it spat out a code for a crank position sensor? Unsure if that's relevant because it's apparently a historical code, the user - diagnosis showed nothing It has 160k km on the clock, not too much for a 1991

Hey team I have a 1991 Subaru liberty/legacy Gx and ive had a couple of issues with it the first symptom appeared maybe 6 months ago, accelerating up a hill at roughly 90km/h to 100 km/h and the engine just lost all of its power and started shaking - all levels were fine etc. pulled over for 2 minutes and drove the car home no problems This has re-occurred at random at highway speeds (100km/h or 60mph) 3 times since, but the more noticeable day to day symptom is a rough idle when in drive/reverse, when I flick it to neutral/park the vibrations go away. Its been a real head-scratcher for me, and the mechanic had no idea what it was either, he suggested it could be the cam angle position sensor but I checked that with my multimeter and the sensor and connector were fine anybody have any ideas what this could be??