Green96GT

The temp gauge doesn't move - ever. Figger the sender is the first place to look. So of the two sensors in the pic, which is the gauge sender?

But I read here that there are 2 sensors, one for the ECU, and one for the gauge. Is this correct?

I've looked at all the threads on this topic, and I still can't find the darned thing. Does anyone have a pic to help the mechanically challenged? It's a 2.5. TIA!!!

Who was the guy in the silver SUV?

I did my bleed solo with a $29 mini vacuum pump called a "MityVac" or something like that - I bought it at Advanced Auto. Makes the bleed REALLY simple. Like falling off a log.

Yup, that's the same style that's in my '96. The other style looks MUCH different. The tubes come out the sides, if I remember correctly. Looks like yours is leaking a lot more than mine ever did. As to the bleeding, someone on the board suggested doing a full bleed, then go out and do some hard braking on sand/snow to activate the ABS, then bleed again to get all the air out of the pump.

I had the SAME problem on my 96 Legacy. Lmdew sent me an ABS unit, very clean. I am a very novice mechanic and I was able to swap out the old one and bleed all the brakes with a vacuum pump, by myself, in about 2 hrs . The best 2 hrs I ever spent!!!!! I would urge you to try doing it yourself - it's easy!!!

You're engine's missing after filling up? Did you try looking on the pavement next to the gas pump?

So, just to be clear: The new red wire shown in the 3rd picture goes straight from the black battery terminal to that bracket on the engine? In that case, did you do away with the ground from the black terminal to the chassis (near the headlamp) - or does one need that wire in addition to the engine ground? Thanks!!

Hayden: I have a 96GT automatic, and got the dreaded torque bind earlier this winter. I was skeptical about the tranny flush (really just a couple of drain and refills), but it worked great to me - no more bind! The 'flush' is easy to do - easier than an oil change. No need to drop the pan, as the trans has a drain plug on the driver's side. Just turn the wheels to the left, jack up the driver's side, and the drain plug is right there. Drain a 1/2 gallon, refill, drive the car, then drain and refill again, etc. (Each drain only gets part of the total trans fluid out, so you need to repeat it a coupla times). Folks also swear by a trans fluid treatment made by Seafoam. I tried it with one of the changes, and it may have helped - hard to tell. Make sure you get the trans additive - they make other additives, too (be sure not to put fuel or oil additive in the tranny). I'm pretty sure NAPA carries the stuff.

What are the other dubious reasons - inquiring minds want to know! I had this discussion with guys at work the other day, and we couldn't figure out why a shop would advertize nitrogen inflation. What's it supposed to do?

I was looking for a drivers side mirror for my GT for the longest time - they're rarer than hen's teeth (since they break-off, instead of folding when hit:banghead: )

Nope - it comes with 1/4 hoses and various attachments to fit different types of brake bleed nipples. I'm not sure how it was used to 'bleed' a radiator. Maybe he just ran the 1/4 hose into the cap and sucked that way?

Mine's a 'Mityvac 7000' - a small vacuum pump with a lot of options for hoses, and connections. I used it to bleed my brakes when I replaced my ABS unit. Works great. I think I got it at Autozone for around $30.

And I'll bet you $100 that no salesman will be able to explain it accurately on any given vehicle he sells.

Can someone explain the difference b/t AWD and 4WD (like in a truck, when you have that little shifter that shifts you into 4WD)? And I mean the practical difference. I think I understand the mechanics, but maybe not. TIA!!!!

Ditto; liked the results, but they failed within a few months. I also tried them in my fog lights, and they burned out even quicker!

Seems like when I'm driving now in the cold, I get insufficient heat, so I turn the heat lever all the over to the right to stay warm. But then every once in a while it suddenly starts blasting hot air, and I have to turn it back down again. Any ideas??

I seem to have the impression that turbos are a maintenance nightmare and $$$$$$$$$$$$$. Shoud I try to avoid a turbo engine in my wife's next car?

Sounds like very bad, and very expensive news.

In addition to the Meguiars PlasticX, try their "Mirror Glaze" plastic polish. It comes in a little squeeze bottle. It's a very fine abrasive liquid that works really well on plastics. Aircraft owners near me use it on their windshields, and I've even used it to polish out scratches on my sunglasses. Works great with some 'elbow grease' and multiple applications.

If it's a power mirror, the mirror portion should snap right off of the bit that moves.

In another thread the consensus was to use #2. That's what I did - seemed to work fine.

Prolly easier just to count the total number of teeth.

Ouch. You should lay off the caffiene a little.