Indrid cold

My .o2cents. As repeated above, the guy did what he could... do too the design of the car he can't adjust out what is causing the pull. I am going through the exact same thing. Same problem on my 84 Brat. Sorry this won't help you but my solution, put Brat on blocks and been buying replacement parts off E-bay and at Dealer for the last 6 months. I am going to replace as much as I can afford, strut bushings, strut assemblys, leading rod bushing, tie-rods, ball joints etc, I wore tire's out, tweeked and got fed up... parked it and collecting new parts and reading the posts on how to do. If I knew a good Subee guy in the area I wouldn't have to go through all of that but too many things can be causing this so doing it all. I did take it in and the alignment guy said Bring it back fixed as I can't align it or I will fix it for $$$$$$$$$ -you know what happens once it goes on the rack... (up yours goober...) Sorry, no guess on what too replace or cost... This has cost me about $250 for all new parts as just about have them all... and havn't started tearing into it... so figure another $100. plus another alignment... One suggestion that was made was making adjustable Caster & Camber Plates on the top of the Strut Bushing, my brother-In law who is into Honda's does this all the time and said it is not a problem, once installed your can tweek the alignment back into specs. If replacing doesn't solve it I will do that add- on next. Slowly I am learning, step by step... Right now with the subee's all I am is a Jed, but some day I will get my "I" and become strong with the Force.. LOL. I hate cars that don't track straight! So I went and bought a wagon till I got the Brat running.. Sorry so wordy...

yes I have. My nephew's friend did it to one in Seattle area and drove it around like that. Took a sawzall with metal blade and starting just behind Front seat, wacked it off. Made kind of a bed/pick-up out of back end. Which involved bailing wire and duct tape to keep tail lights on as had too lower them. He put a roll bar behind the front seats and extended toward the back as now that is out in the open and a single Brat seat in the center in the back facing to the rear with seatbelts etc... The roll bar protected the riders just in case, he drove it all over like that, clear over too the East side of the state where I got a chance too see it. Didn't realize at the time that was the car that got me thinking about getting into these Subaru's!!! State law required front Windshield and front side windows also the roof above head to keep some integrity and rain off the head. This kid did nothing about dressing up the edges... I mean looked like a giant can-opener attacked this thing...*kids.. . They used this as a beater and took it too the hills over and over again and relentlessly beat the *hit out of it till I am sure they drove it off some cliff somewhere with what ever remained of their empty beer cans... (Joking of course.) If you have a roo that is short in life... may be a proud way for it too go rather then just...CRUSH....., Sorry no pics of that old wagon... It was interesting.. *If I were to do it I would dress the edges up with something rather then sharp edges sticking up all around... but hey... I'm an adult and don't have one of those youthfull giant S's on my chest..

Havn't done one on a station wagon but on my Brat I found it was easier to take the clutch peddle off, connect cable end and slid it back on. I had to remove snap ring (SPROING..bounce...bounce...) but wasn't that bad. I put fresh graphite powder in the bushings and seemed to work good. Pushed front seat back as far as it would go, bright light, dislocate my left shoulder and wiggle in on my back.... Not sure if this helps but there it is...

1.) I've seen plenty of full time mechanics at shops who know less about how the systems actually work on a car than I do, which is pathetic. 2.) you got shafted, plain and simple, by the repair shop. 3.) By the way, most shops charge the customer twice what they paid for parts. it's a way of skimming more cream off the customer. 4.) So yes, bringing your own parts to a shop of clowns will piss them off. You just took away one of their ways of screwing you. Taking a weekend and doing the work yourself would have made for a happier you. ............ My .02 cents... 1.) Yup, that's why a person has got to learn these cars, too speak the lingo to keep the mechanics on their toes.. 2.) Only because the mechanic could and he needs to make a living, payoverhead etc.. 3.) If the part was no good and the mechanic had it delivered then he would have to warrent it... eat it... but not this time so... chance he took 4.) yes, become one with the Subee.... trust the Subee, the Subaru is good, Trust the Subee..... do the Bull dance.... again, my .02 cents worth....

I am laughing and crying with you:banghead: , as I remember all those posts that you put on the board!! Ouch... I am following the path when I got into these roo's I would do as much as I possibly could and if I have to break it twice I will to learn to do it right the next time...so when it does break down along the road I will be able to fix her to get her home.... also.... didn't you ever notice that in most pictures of older Subaru's in the distant back ground there always seems to be a Tow-dolly of some kind..... I still need to get me on of them there things. My corner: Saw a Brat go by on a car hauler in town, spun around through traffic and followed it to a repair shop..... mechanic picked it up from the owner for fix'n, worried it was headed for the junk yard down the road... wasn't for sale. :-\ Later,

Just a stupid post to just say that it snowed today, kicked my son out of my (his when it runs) 88 Wagon (Red) and took it out into the snow for the first time since I had bought it. ... 4x4 button worked great, with new tires for great traction (no studs) I buzzed around ..... what a fun rig all I had to do was watch out for all the idiots! A gal in a $40K Ford excursion was infront of me going in a parking lot of a store... I was having more fun and not making $400 month payments!

Welcome too the board... (With that many Subee's, the force is strong with this one )

top it off i got hit by a college girl today. .................. So, one... was she cute... and two, did you get a date? You know... "a Guilt" date for her hitting your car.....

...... Well, not that bad I think... No deap gouges or anything... This engine appears to have been reworked and something caused it to go the second time.... crank could be warped or who knows? If this Crank is damaged, warped or what ever do they evern mess with these or can you buy a new one? I will contact the local machine shop that does the work for the local Subaru dealer and see if he can work these. I could post a picture if you want.

Found reason for knock, and other problems. Learned alot as first tear down. Will rebuild during the winter and pester you guys for rebuild info later. Main bearing race is gone, sever piston slap/grindage... interesting piston cyclender wall still looks very good. Suspect someone ran this motor with loss of oil... Later and thx for all the info on prior posts... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/data/500/10890Main_Bearing_-2.JPG

Pulled bolts, smacked a couple time with rubber hammer, came right apart. No problem.... Much ado about nothing.

sorry, I put Wrist pin but I guess proper name is the Piston Pin so I edited original post. I am tearing down an EA-82 Motor (First time) from my 88 wagon and have to pull pins that connect piston to connecting rods to split block.... so the book says. Sorry if there was some confusion.

Hi, Scratch built my first Piston pin puller for my EA-82 Motor. I used another board members description from past post and mixed with what I had in my garage. I have alot of plumbing parts sitting around so that is what I used. Seemed to work good as pulled all 4 pins out in short order. Thanks for those who came before and shared their experiences. Thx, Noob.

Hey, O.k, ready too split block. Chiltins says: (wrist pins are out, bolts loosened.) 9. Remove the cylinder block connecting bolts, except the one under the center journal: loosen the remaining bolt until it can be turned by hand. So the last bolt to come off is under the center journal....hmmmm... which bolt might that be.... and is it that important.... From this point is it a putty knife too slice in between and wrestle on floor? Any tricks or just take bolts out, roll so 1 & 3 cylanders are up and pull? Noob's.

Excellent info: I could read all day but don't get it till I have the part in my hand so appreciate the info on this well beaten subject. I do have manuals... 4 of them.. each less informative then the next LOL... I am finding only one way to learn...a picture, the members of this site and greasy hands All Hydraulic lifters looked good and moved well so I don't think that was the problem... sounded deeper and very solid clunk in engine. Sounds like I got to keep going too assure crank etc.. is ok as that seems to be the feeling from the experienced members, ... Not sure on the wrist pin removal but let me get there...maybe tomorrow. And will assure to keep proper order etc.. Yea, have heard stories about the two hidden bolts and a kid chained motor block between two rigs and pulled, not realizing the two main bolts hidden under gasket. I will look at other points brought up and GREATLY appreciate this, thanks Saberian, Mark, Nipper and others. :cool:

From the book: Fluid recommendations Use gear oil with API classification GL-5 for open differentials and GLS for limited slip differential. Viscosity should be: *SAE 90-above 30 deg F *SAE 85W-above 30 def F *Sae 80W-below 0 def F ......................................... A regular member of Ultimate Sub site suggested to remove the UPPER plug first prior to removing and draining the fluid from the bottom... the obvious point is if you can't get fill plug out and no oil in gear box..URSCREWED. I took mine out....took 3/8 drive I think (didn't have metric that fix) and 3 Ft cheater bar... made a loup POP, when she came loose... thus... assure to do top first just in case. Good luck.

Thanks for quick reply and given so far. Other then listening to the engine run for a trip around the block we really don't know or remmember much about how the motor ran etc... my nephew had an engine to exchange, it was very loud...more then a bad lifter I think should ever make.. but Noob to these so must agree one could have been bad. I will get those HLA/lifters in oil. I willl get friend to help put pressure on head and slowly crank. I have learned that these are tough engines. I questioned from the very begining if this is something other then main crank etc... but I must rely on others and my meager knowledge of mechaniching. I will look at chiltons on how to test lifter or any recomends to determin how to find the bad one?

I will try and make this short: Replaced engine from my 88 Wagon EA-82, Single port fuel injected. I bought wagon at cheap price as the engine EA-82 Non-Turbo, made a serious CLUNK, CLUNK, CLUNK sound. So bad that I got car at a great price. My nephew a Subaru Freek (got me hooked) shook his head... its bad what ever it is. So we got a replacement eng. and set bad one aside. I am new to this so I thought I would dig into the EA-82 engine to learn. Pulled valve covers off. All looked good, took Cam towers off....nothing out of the ordinary (noob ordinary-anyway) so I took the heads off. Valves are a bit crusty but not bad. Cylender walls have cross hatch pattern on them and no ridge on top. One piston head looks kind of clean so possible coolant leak and steamed inside? (Hey, what do I know.) or it was water from engine sitting outside at my Nephews in Seattle. I layed the heads down and gently depressed the valves down with the rubber end of a hammer, all moved smooth. Accidently droped a hydraulic lifter...hope it doesn't ruin them, appears o.k. I took the oil pan off. No metal shavings, no loose anything etc.. nothing in bottom of the oil pan, all looks good and tight. I took a small mirror and poked up inside behind pistons.. looks good I guess. I understand that a running engine is creating the stress needed to creat the clunking sound but was thinking something would be obvious by now.... I have not split engine yet. What do you recommend? Continue and split block? I remember an earlier post of someone putting wrong plugs in and they would tap top of head or what ever.... hate to crack a good engine when this thing could be good but...? I am learning a ton doing this so don't mind this. I am finaly getting some of the past posts now that I have taken one apart... Micky Mouse gasket:rolleyes: , gotch ya... LOL.. etc.. I believe I am doing fine so far, of course this is the easy part! I need this engine/want to get it running again. So any suggestions? Continue on to block split to inspect wrist pins, crank etc.. or? Sorry so wordy and thanks in advance. I will try and post a pic of the one head. The right piston head was shinny and cleaner then the others, the left is alot of flash bounce but black... so was this a possible coolant leak?

Loved the #4 comment: ........................ Observations: 4. As we observed, "You can drive it like you stole it, and still not speed." ..........................

How can you tell if it was bad? :-\ It feels solid?

Yea, EA-81. All good ideas... except timing belts;) Everytime I get thinking about diving into the Brat it rains. I woke up and raining. hmmmm I did have it timed right on... just started acting up slowly over time kept getting worse. Let me think about it till I get the garage cleaned out as winter is coming fast and then maybe get into this winter....

Havn't had much time to dive into it... Been acting up last little bit.. finaly parked it about 2 months ago. Spark, poured some gas down carb... still won't fire... hmmmmm... Fresh Fuel filter by pump and seperator in engine replaced. If not raining tomorow will dive in.... any thoughts for game plan?

I was at a Parts Pull place and saw a window that looked good... and I needed one so I inquired and the guy at the desk handed my a roll of wire for $3. and a brief, "How too" luckly I had a pocket knife as a wiggled a little hole, slid in the wire, my son on the outside, I wrapped extra wire around a piece of something to create a handle and we went back and forth to create heat and found the more smoke (heat) the better. It took us about 15 minutes and worked all around the window... worked great. Next time I would have had leather gloves as wire end are like needles and wood round stock to wrap extra wire around for better control... kind of like kitestring on a rod. That was my first experience removing a window...

Oh.. yes... I can possibly give some input... Changed a front C.V. joint out... sure enough, fresh out of the box, clunk, clunk, clunk... the new C.V. joint was bad. I can't imagine that the transfer case all of a sudden would make that noise... could happen... but... possibly bearings were ready to go and now making noise? or as lower post, possibly other side making noise? My guess would be bad / new drive axel, although convincing mechanic may be a problem.... My .02 cents.