Indrid cold

( *Rubbing my eyes) A Stainless Steel travel Coffee mug?..... that is a classic! YOU WIN.... that is better then the can-O-Beer. Can't wait till I get Brat going so I can put one on.... I hate to be a copy cat but... MEOW....

Hey JK, and Welcome. Lots of members from the Dry-side of the mountains on this post so thought... hey... why not say, "Hi". Surprised "Baccaruda" hasn't said hi... he is in Spokane and knows these Roos. I got some parts off him last month. As for oil, yea my son did that... from what I have learned the extra oil will froth up in these flat engines as the connecting rods splash in the extra oil or something like that... so best to get it right. I was in Spokane last month and surprised how many Subaru's were in the Pull & Pay auto scrap yard...so many cars...so little time :-\ Later.

My Son has been driving my 88 Wagon, I noticed it hasn't been dripping oil lately (will be getting new engine seals soon) anyway, I took Sube and son too a church gathering this eve and while driving I noticed red oil light flickered whenever I took a corner so I stopped by Auto store and had him go in and buy 2 quarts of oil and explained to him that engines don't run without oil .....LOL... he put two quarts in while I gave him a GREAT and MIGHTY lecture about responsibility of checking the oil everytime he fuels up and so on, and so forth, and after the second quart the oil just touched the dip stick... so I sent him in for a 3rd quart and the lecture continued till we got all the way home... Didn't hurt it i GUESS, but...scheezee... son, ... CHECK THE OIL! Soooo, conclusion... my 88 wagon isn't dripping oil cause.. THERE IS NONE!!!!!!!!! (sorry so long I guess I should have put this in the misc column... oh well...)

HELP ME JEEBUS! LOL.. .. that is my favorite quote when I am in a situation that is unraveling... Wonder if Homer's wagon is a Subaru?..... MMMMMMMM Subaru..... Glad to hear it was just fuses.

Hey Eachone... Welcome to the site. I'm still learning on these Subee's. Lots of good info and people here. I got 3 in different stages and a wife that is rolling her eyes...LOL.. Welcome and good luck

I believe you are correct regarding Solvent weld glue. There are different plastics and ways to glue... One example I have seen is a solvent glue with long schnouts that you just run along the joint, hold and it melts the material (solvent) then cures back out in a minute or so. But each type of plastic is diffent... Sounds like your in a hurry. I know at HOme depot they have a two part mix (activator) & (Glue) in a kit for plastic. My son used it on plastic parts on his paint ball hopper. (acts much like a super glue) Next choice would be a super glue... Sorry not familiar with Gorila glue.... seen it, never used it. Try it on a test piece and see what happens? My .2 cents

Wow... alot of interesting replys. Thanks for all the input and information and Syka web link. I posted the other one because of the technical info... but both gets you to the main link. Like most things it's not impossible to do yourself... but the skill and knowledge are important when related to a safety item. If electing to do the install yourself it boils down to a personal choice, either reflected by a constrained financial decision or that of the independent, do it yourself philosophy and opening this topic up I believe is beneficial to those who may be contemplating windshield replacement. I may or may not do the next one... but I won't be scared to do it now if I have too! This site and the people are the best... Cheers!

Thanks Humble Nuto for the reply and info... I followed your lead on the trim but used the Hot application as that is what I got for free. Here is a quick break down of how I did FYI: Product: 2-tubes SIKATACK-ASAP Hot Application Adhesive. 1-Window Activator Pad 3-Body activator/sealer tubes. Had too heat "SikaTack-ASAP" too 180 deg. (Caulk gun cartridge type.) How I did that: got BBQ, turned on too low, put 1" thick stepping stone on bottom rack, got a cheap aluminum cassoral pan at store ($2.50) put 1 inch on sand on botton, layed two tubes in sand and covered till 1/2" over top. Put a temperature probe between the tubes in the sand and set on brick.. took about 1.5 hours for it too hit 200 deg., figue 20 loss in heat transfer do too glue density. I didn't want to use wife's oven in house. Bent to crack inner vial to activate window Activator and ran now wet applicator around sealing serface, wiped clean. Bent to activate body Activator/Sealer and went around body frame. {Previously bought at Homedepot calking gun (solid handle as suggested by Glass guy) and also had a regular calking gun. } Put on leather gloves and broke seal on glue cartredge, put into gun gave one to friend and I did the other, he got on one side, I got on the other. Notch in glue tip sets depth.. put gun verticle to surface and V-slit pointed away (I accidently told friend opposite and he had V-pointed to himself...arggg... it kind of globed on his side...but o.k. I think.) Ran bead around about 3/8" thick and tall, immediatly placed window in and had wooden shims on bottom to center window in frame. (Test fit prior to glue) Gently pressed window down around edges and looked for goosh... This is the important part.... took the old beat up trim that they wanted $120 to replace and shoved it in... if it looked like it wasn't holding I pulled up and dabed some glue on it and shoved it back in...... stood back 10 ft.. hmmm ...20ft... looking better...... 30 ft... DAMN FINE JOB!!!! Drive time is 45 min with this stuff. Further info is on www.wikasolutions.com They do make a cold adhesive but like I said the guy handed me what he uses (hot application) and I just had too make it happen. I will find out at the first rain (Forcasted for Sat) how I did.... a smooth bead is important and didn't get that on one side as applicator error (my fault) but will find out how forgiving this stuff is. Cost: Window ($21). Pull and parts, I pulled (blue tint on top) Calking gun: Homedepot, solid handle ($10.) Misc-latex gloves etc. ($10) Adhesive, activator pads and body activator/Sealer sticks (free) So about $50 into front windshield... me likie Glass guy wanted $80 to put window in but I am living the part of the learning curve of Learning how to do it... not just watch. Cause next time... it gona be a whole lot easier! Lessons learned: Priceless. Leaks: Crossing fingers.... praying for none!

O.K., never done a window before. Stopped by Spokane Pay and Pull and got me excellent window for $21. Pounded out my window from my 88 wagon. Cleaned up the seating surface and ...... now the story/questions. I stopped by local auto window shop. They took pity on my son (any one who drives an 88 Subie needs help..hehehe ) and they GAVE me 2 tubes of sealant... the window activator applicator and 3 tubes of black little vials used to prep the surface on the car. Also they gave me some left over universal trim...however it is 2 foot short...hmmmm... The owner said I could nip the under side of the Universal trim to get it to make the corner and put some adhesive under the edge and tape down and it should work. The old trim (shiny trim with corner trim) is kind of beat up... 20 years old and all, no money to buy new $125. 1.) So, do I go buy a short 2 ft section and use the Universal (I would put splice on the bottom). or buy enough to do the whole job ($25.) 2.) Or use the old trim and just kind of tape it, wedge it in...till the glue sets up as it is kind of bent, brittle and part of the wedge part tore off as it was removed. 3.) How do I heat the tubes too 180 deg F. They said don't put in water as it will ruin the glue.. I was thinking rolling my BBQ up front and set in metal tray on upper rack with thermometer... I am not sure if I should put in glue in the oven in the house as who knows what can go wrong there and my wife would KILL me... also owner said I could set on engine head as they run about 180 deg... for about 1/2 hour. Also I need to get heavy duty calking gun. The original bids I got were $350 and $425 to replace this window. Sorry so wordy and thanks for any advice.

Somewhere on the carb you should find a number like DCZ328-504C DCZ328-504C CARBURETOR USED ON ALL 1985-87 models with standard transmissions except Justy. Per Chiltons 70-88 manual book no.6982 pg. 210.

Find a Chiltons Subaru book or equivalent (e-bay,if you need one) and motor and sounds like a chance to bond with your son.... one of the last few cars you can still work on and not need tons of stuff or expensive. I got rid of my Chevy truck and tinker with Subaru's... my son has NO drive to work on cars so I try to set up quick projects for him to do so he isn't totally ignorant of how a car functions. (brake, headlights, help on drive axels) he has a girl friend and short attention span..need I say more. They are fun rigs and very forgiving if things arn't quite right... well kind of.... Welcome and enjoy. "Noob with a wrench." Later

it would certainly be a dream come true combining my two passions, but we don't have the numbers for it. Didn't reallize there was a magazine... I will have to check it out...but not interested in the new stuff. Hmmmm.... could there be another possibility with this other then regular magazine? How about contacting the magazine and have them do a Bi-annual attachment for the old Subee's, ... possible? Target advertisers of lift kits, bolt ons etc.... motor sales, parts places etc... have the advertizing absorb cost? and attach (two in a sack) ship in that manner? I would love too see something in print, ideas etc... get tired of the red neck Chevy magazine.... oh which brings up an issue... Notice how in those magazine it is cost is no limit... in majority of what we do (old Subies) is cheapest wins... ergo... a standard magazine wont work.... but I find cheap is funner and sometimes better. Just a thought...

I lifted my tire out, look from the back side of carb, towards bottom of all the linkages...it is a slot screw I believe. As prior post above I turned little incraments at each day. I did a tune up and found my Fast idle needed to be slightly adjusted. I overajusted at first and did did the little each day and verified the next morning from a cold start. hope this helps. my .02cent. "Noob with a wrench." ....edit.... Ooops...noob mistake, dif. carbs from what you have... never mind.

I CAN NOT LET MY WIFE SEE THAT.... I can't afford a car payment right now... she loves different and that my fellow Subaru lovers... is different:rolleyes: ooops... she saw it... only thing that saved me is it is on the East coast...whew... *she doesn't know about auto shippers...shhhhhhhh

sounds like its time for you to buy one too tinker with on the side... look for a good used Sube on the Craigslist.com, (manual tranny, 4x4,) cheaper the better and start from there.. can't break anything more then all that is broken and it is fun too learn how to work on them! I got 4, 3 that don't and one that does run....kind of ... but getting there Good luck.. and happy trails! "Noob with a wrench."

Wow... my daughter would love that car!

Nice new play thing!!!!! Nice color and all... Is your girlfriend jealous

The problem I had last time was that I didn't have the tool to remove the wrist pin and don't have the means to fabricate one. .............................................. What tool is needed to remove wrist pins??? New too this and gathering info for my winter project.... rebuild. "Noob with a wrench".

50 foot extension leading to it, then you will be running off approximatly 90 volts. At least with my power at my house this is how it is. I drop about 10 volts every 25 feet. ................................ LOL.... never heard of such a thing.... creating resistance to reduce amperage.... clever!!! This made my day! Can't wait to tell the welders at work about that one Never tried to do autobody welding... some day.... some day.....

Q: is motor removable with just you and friend to lift it out? Yes, possibly, but better to have a third...I used two nylon slings and an 8 ft pole (pipe etc.) layed across hood, dropped slings on each side under heads and snugged up, put a guy on each end too lift up, one to pull motor forward and wiggle... Assure radiator was removed prior to pulling. Possibly a slight lift with floor jack under tranny to re-install. I am a "Noob with a wrench" so others can take it from here......

The bolt that is gone is the steering knuckles bottom bolt that holds the ball joint on. There is NO WAY POSSIBLE to seperate the ball joint from the knuckle. So if I understand this correctly: The ball joint is held into the knuckle by a bolt on the back side of the knuckle that clamps it in, the service book shows loosening bolt and wedging in screwdriver to spread recess so ball joint can be pulled out. And you are telling us that the stud out of the bottom of Ball joint is broke off preventing extraction as having no stud to pull down on??? That sucks.... The nut under the control arm is completely seized as well, so no taking it off at that point either. The only option I see left is to take the control arm off at it's origin pont and change the axle that way? (Is that even possible?) Yes... I had to do something similar but I also had my Tie-rod disconnected and loosened the rubber bushing end of the Leading rod (count nut rotations) {The leading rod bushings are at the end of the rod that runs from the control arm back to the body}.... that gave me enough movement to pull out on knuckle and friend placed board over axel end and rapped with hammer to pop out axel... hmmm.... not to sound like an old dad...but just in case as your laying on your back and kind of panickie......Lefty Loose...righty tighty on that Castle nut? I havn't done that many but never one totally seized on.... Maybe a touch of heat on that nut? Even if you have too take out knuckle with drive shaft attached you may beable to wrestle on a work bench or something... I don't have that much experience with the front ends... but saw your post at 4am.... and... I feel your pain! If I don't get this fixed I lose not only my car but my job, livelihood and will to live.... ............. *I need to let my son see this post... the next time he wants to borrow my car and I tell him to grab his bike and he justs laughs like people actually don't have anyone too help them or faced with these life's problems.* Wow... I hate when things like that happen, horrible learning curve on these things. Panic isn't good... but it does help sometimes. A personal suggetion may be to first protect the job by any means...second fix car when parts and funds become available. You may now find out who your true friends are as you search for a ride or trade something of value for parts, cash, etc..... Sorry I don't know anyone in your neck of the woods or I would give them a call. Good luck.

Wow... thanks for reply's, .... I guess they are a wanted item. I am not at the point that I need them right now so I will check them out for others on the board.... I will walk back down, take each out of the box, look them over and run to the bank for the money if good. Thanks for the quick reply. Mike

Hey, garage sale down street. Aluminum 5 hole rims from a 95 Subaru Loyal. Anyway they want $25 for all 4. (I looked at one, used but good cond.) Any way, all my Sube's are 4 hole rims. Do I want these 5 holed rims for anything like for conversions from 4 to 5 hole stud patterns as I have seen posted? It is hard for me to walk away from anything Subaru that is $25 or less. *Noob with a wrench. What do you think? (They will probably be gone but thought I would ask just in case...shhhh...my wife is asking what I am posting now....got to go... LOL)

Prevention: You can buy green and red little battery insulators prior to installing clamps and spray a battery sealant on clamps after installed.... I usually don't bother as I am CHEAP. I have noticed is the older the battery it seems to leak around the post & case, and the acid inside creaps up post and attacks the wire clamp etc.., capilary action kind of thing. Seems newer batterys will stay cleaner... it starts getting older, constant vibration or what ever.. they seem to gunk up more. summer temperature is harder on a battery then the cold months and more batterys die this time of year. I like to wear latex gloves or equal and safety glasses, I use water and sprinkle Baking Soda lightly on surface and a 3/4" wire copper fitting brush (buy at plumbing shop or home depot) to clean the posts and clamps, remove post and use wire brush to clean inside clamp etc... I remove battery, wash all surfices with a bit of dish soap and sprinkle Baking Soda where acid crust is visible and water and assure to wash drive way (prefer to do this over gravel) as the acid will attack and STAIN concrete! I fill battery with Deionized water (assure vent slot is visible just inside ledge) to allow battery to vent (about 1/2" from top). Wipe battery down and install. my 2cnts.