Indrid cold

whew... luckly I didn't check too see what my millage was before I put up the rack... won't know the difference :-p

all right... Let's hear it for Eastern Washington... You have the meanest Roo on the Dry-side of the mountains! Yea, good idea....

Make sure you remove the radiator...... ooops I forgot that one... A.C., power steering lines can stay intact and just roll back and tie off to keep out of way. Do a search, see threads below. With your experience you shouldn't have a problem.

I just replaced my 02 sensor and came across the same thing: short 2" stub wire from sensor and connector 2 feet away....hmmmm.... Someone had posted that the length on this type (single wire) probably won't make a difference so I followed his post and used the Universal 02 unit. I took the old lead which all ready had one cut and splice, stripped wire and soldered the wire together at both locations, (mechanical connectors are fine) then shrink wrap connections. I did a resistance check and vertually none in added length... and how else could it been run anyway? Connected and ran great.

Azsubaru, thanks for following through on the last question and thanks for the heads up on tightening against the alum. heads.

Thanks Azsubaru.... that's what I thought. I didn't want to be taking more off if I didn't and that seems the easiest looking back. Re-use the same exhaust gaskets or a new set be needed?

I don't have a crows foot, 22mm I think is what it would take. I figured I would buy the socket type but found that was a waste of $. Crows foot may be the answer... but don't know... I guess that is what I am asking?

1988 ea-82, SPFI, (non-turbo) Had code so changed o2 sensor. Running 100% better! What is the secret to getting the o2 sensor out and in on this make, there is like zero room. I finaly got it out but on the install I had to put a small pipewrench on the body of the sensor and give it a snug as impossible to get my brand new o2-socket on it. I hated to exert force on the body and not the nut flats but the code cleared so sensor works and my wagon is running fantastic. I was thinking I would have too loosen the exhaust manifold/flange bolts and lower the exhaust pipe down to get it out and get proper torque on the install, ... but I think my snug was enough too keep it in there with out destroying the unit. What is the usuall way to get to this little unit? Tricks? Tools?

Under the hood I got green plugs and white plugs. When do I plug the green ones in (set timing and read codes & ?) When do I plug the white ones in ? When do I plug both sets in ? ................................ 88 wagon,EA-82, SPFI, I had a bad EGR solenoid so I got a spare off my parts rig and replaced. (tested good in resistance and operation.) Now code 35 Purge valve code is flashing however that tested good with resistance but I didn't check vacuum lines and power it up (click, click) so I will do that next. I set timing with green and white connected and stumbling very bad. Had been acting up a bit but now seems worse. Plug wires are tight but I could use a new set and have new plugs..... I have to feather the gas to build rpms. This has been acting this way for some time and getting worse so figure I better dive-in. Took EGR valve off and cleaned, tested good and installed with new gasket. .............................. When setting timing on fuel injected models Chilton book states to assure the Idle switch is ON and go too section 4, then too connect the green connectors. How does one assure the Idle switch is "ON".... thats all for now...whew....

Nice... welcome, and another wet side of the mountain owner! Don't forget about the Subaru Gathering in Hood River Or. in August!!!!

As for centering your thoughts, I kind of think of it this way..... any car can and will break down on you, from $40K SUV'S too $150 Subaru's... it's man made and mechanical. Take the breakdowns as blessings as your learning the in's and out's of the car. You have a choice, empower yourself to know these rigs enough that you can run it and fix it if you had too with-out your local mechanic or just don't bother. But make sure you have fun with these rigs and don't rush the repairs. I know what you mean as others seem so much more mechanicaly inclined and make it look easy but that comes from time, mistakes and experience which builds confidence. Noob with a wrench.

Just thought I would post a pic. of my wagon and back from weekend camping. The rack makes it so nice to put bulk items....dog in back seat... dry stuff in the back, was a very nice weekend.

To a ground point. sorry I gave you some bad advice there... (late last night) after looking at my 84 Brat, the newer models like my 88 wagon use double wire, thus I use a paper clip to make a horseshoe bend to complete circuite at connector, yours probably uses a single wire from the Temp-sensor (? yellow wire) to activate the fan. My guess is as the radiator gets hot the contacts inside the sensor closes and a direct path to ground is establised through the radiator..thus only one wire. On a single wire I would just touch it too ground. Gently pull wire connector from Temp sensor and stick wire up inside connector and run it to a ground point, (bear metal/under screw) that should close that leg of the circuit and start fan when engine is started. Hope this isn't more confusing nor wrong...

Not sure if this is the same as my 88 wagon but, disconnect the temp. sensor wire from the Temp-stat, mine is found on the side of the radiator and use a paper clip bend a u and make a jumper between the hot side, this should close the circuit and start the fan when you start the car. Closing the circuit on that leg is like faking out that the sensor is wanting too cool the radiator down and should start the fan motor. Or run two wires from your battery and disconnect the power wires too the fan and wire it right too the battery, that ought too get the fan going. If it doesn't run the motor is bad. Hope this helps...

Oh you guys, that is too funny...... !!!!! Hey, Door prize it at the WCSS-8 at HoodRiver in August! ooooo... better yet, Raffle it! $1. ticket.

My guess would be continued condensation under your distributor. When mine got that wet I had to remove dist.cap and wash with rubbing alcohal (I get at local drug store and get highest % of alcohol content) also push in the spring contact inside and on top of distributor cap and wash with the rubbing alcohol then warmed up with hair dryer to assure moisture out of cap. I even poured just a bit down the dist. with hopes of quickening evaporation of the water.... not sure if that's the smartest thing but... the object is too get that alchohol to displace the moisture and assit in evap. it out of the engine. I had to do this 2 or 3 times till engine got hot enought to get rid of moisture out of crooks and crevasis. Hope this helped. My .o2 cents. *If you get into water an earlier post someone said they take a rubber glove, snip each end of finger and run wires through, slip glove over dist. and zip tie around each finger and base creating a water proof shield.

I wonder if this approach would work on my Mother-Inlaw??? I just came back from Utah yesterday...was all over the state but no way to tow one back... plus my wife would have resented the competition.

Welcome..... 88 gl wagon... Me too!

Hey, Hey, Donna; *couldn't resist Welcome too the site, were almost neighbors Not very often a new contact from the dry side of the mountains. As for issues.... sorry... no idea. Someone will get you going in the right direction. good luck

They have too make a living and a profit on the business or why sell cars. It's one of those circle of life things. It is high... understandable they will have to keep it up a bit for negotiating reasons. One of the mechanics or salesmans kids will probably get a great deal on it if it doesn't sell.

Cathodic protection....... (Sacraficial rod/material) Which metal would make the best Cathodic protection? (zinc?) as recomended by Torxx? Sounds like this is used.. I know they make different rods for diffent mix of materials etc... as for puting strips of a sacraficial rod into the engine....great idea! As long as it couldn't reduce down and make its way to the water pump...Thunk... But, could this also be a bolt on idea? You know a bit of sacraficial metal into the coolant line with a connecting wire back too the engine to form a circuit so a person could add this feature at any time, not just when the engine is apart? More ramblings: .01 cent worth. (probably less) The most common application (in the home) is in the water heater. There is a long rod that extends down into the tank which is attacked leaving the tank uneffected by the reaction of dissimilar metals & fluids....untill the rod is eaten up. Anytime you have dissimilar metals make contact electralisis comes into play. The rate of reaction depends how well the metals get along, or don't get along... I had no idea this was an issue on these engines! Absolutly something too consider. I would have too agree with Torxx that it would be of a metal more easily attacked (Zinc) then the base metal..(Alum. rod in a Alum engine).(anyone know a good metalergist?) Do a search on the internet and find who makes the Zinc ones and ask them what other mixes they may have and or recommend for these engines. Interesting subject...... this could make an interesting follow up. I know someone probably knows all about this and will post but interesting..

WOW..... what can I say but... "WOW"... I got a Brat...... but nothing like that. Good job....

for $150..., runs with some basic repairs... fresh paint and if it died tomorrow your out $150. SCORE......SCORE......

#4. *Will be my first WCSS8 mug