RallyKeith
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Posts posted by RallyKeith
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I'm going to have to chime in on the Valvoline 75w90 Synthetic. We run that in a modified WRX Rally car and it works well. I run the Valvoline dino 75w90 in my street cars usually and don't have any issues.
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From what I can tell Sava is a brand Goodyear bought out, and you are looking at the Eskimo S3 tire. I agree with Rooster2 about goodyear, but these tires are not really goodyear, they are Sava tires. Sava just happens to be owned by Goodyear. It would be like me saying I'm going to buy GM 9-3, which is not a GM but a Saab. I've owned several sets of Hakkapaliittas. They are great tires in the snow and ice down to the last few 32nds of tread depth. It's all about sacrafice when dealing with tires. NOBODY makes a tire that excels in EVRY catagory. To get good ice traction you will have to put up with some squishyness on dry pavement. A tire that does well in the snow will not have superb traction on just wet pavement. Just like a tire that has excellent traction on hot dry pavement will have horrible peformance on anything cold, and anything desinged to work in the cold will wear very quickly in the heat. Things have gotten better over the years to bring these gaps closer together, but there are still comprimises to be made.
Several people I've talked to have said the Hakka WR is a great comprimise of summer driving and tread life, and winter snow and ice performance. My best friend's father has them on a giant RWD BMW and commutes some 80 miles a day with them, summer and winter. So far tread wear has been good and winter performance has been excelent. I would recommend them to anyone looking for an all year tire.
As for the Eskimo S3, it looks like it would be a decent winter tire. If they are really cheap I would give them a try. It has all the right things to do well. Open tread pattern, lots of sipes, and directional tread pattern.
If you get them let us know how they are.
Keith
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Has anyone considered adjusting the trunk latch? If the trunk is not latching tighly the entire trunk will vibrate... even at idle.
Keith
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If the plugs are wet from fuel that is not good. You could have fouled them. You may want to try replacing them.
Keith
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How Poetic. Article on CNN Today about stupid Drivers. PA, NY, and MA are among the stupidest states!
http://www.cnn.com/2007/LIVING/wayoflife/11/16/driving.stupid/index.html
As for your ticket... I don't know what to say. Plead not guilty and try fighting it yourself, but you probably won't get far without a lawyer. I'm guessing it's one of those their word against yours.
Keith
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Good point. I knew I was forgetting something.
The '06 still has a 10.9" Rotor. I also looked up what other years the caliper is used on. The caliper is used on 2002-2006 Imprezas, 2003-2006 Foresters, 2003-2006 Bajas, and 2002-2006 Legacys. So it certainly seems like it's nothing special caliper wise as well.
Keith
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I'm about to pic up an '06 2.5i Wagon, and one of the reasons I chose it over some other options was because people "SAY" you can run stock 15" steel or alloy wheels on this car. I've seen several threads with people saying "you should be able to" but none that said "yes I am running them." I've got two sets of snow tires, one set mounted on mid 90's 15" Legacy alloys, and one set mounted on mid 90's 15" Impreza Steel wheels. Is anyone Actually running these, and does anyone have pics they can post to show me?
Thanks,
Keith
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There's even a mass-hole bumper sticker out there.
Oh oh, I have to tell my brother. He's a school teacher so I don't think he can put it on his car, but I'm sure he'd buy one!
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I Live in PA, and my brother lives in NH. Mass happens to be in between the two. No offense to those who live and drive there, but this is a prime example of what I call a Mass-hole. In general one needs to drive defensively to avoid accidents, but in Mass it seems to apply double. The last time I was near Boston itself I had issues with people driving in 5 o'clock traffic on the shoulder. I was in a big van towing a car on a trailer and almost wipe someone out moving over onto an exit ramp because someone decided to pass me on the shoulder.....
Anyhow, this really sucks. My personal experiance is that it's nearly impossible to keep a brand new car from getting hurt by some misfortune. My '05 was hit by a rogue shopping cart in a mall parking lot 2 months after I got it. The sad part was it happened while I was driving through it, not parked. My STi was rear-ended 30 days after coming off the first shipment from Japan. It sucks big time. Hope you get good results from the body shop, and if you can insist that they re-spray the entire door.
Keith
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Also, is this the separator plate that I need?
http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partdetail.php?partid=11566
That's it. The plastic ones don't expand and contract the same as the aluminum block and eventually break the seal and start leaking. Going to the Aluminum one solves the problem.
Keith
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I'm having the HG's and clutch done in my 00 OBW with 165,000. I'm debating about if I should have the rear main seal and cam seals done too. Would it be a good idea? I'm not made of money and the HG's and the clutch alone will be around $2,000. How much extra would having the rear main seal and cam seals be? A lot?
That should only cost you another $50-75. They are going to be close enough to each of these during the service that Labor shouldn't be an issue. The parts themselves are no more than $50. Soemthing like $8 a cam seal and $20 for the rear main. The rear main is absolutely worth doing. At the same time they should inspect the seperator plate for leaks. It is know to cause more leaks than the rear main seal on certain years. The cam seals can be replaced pretty easily, but once again they are going to be right there at them while doing the head gasket. In fact, they might be included in the job.
Keith
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Are we talking about a front Half Shaft, Rear Half Shaft, or the drive shaft to the rear diff? No way the main drive shaft should come out in any way, there is a carrier bearing bolted to the car half way back that prevents that. The Front half shaft attach to a splined shaft that sticks out of the transmission. Even if they didn't put that pin in and the axle shaft moved, it shouldn't leak fluid, plus I've never seen a subaru where there was enough play to completely pop the axle off of that splined shaft without undoing some part of the outter suspension. The only place I see this being possible is in the rear. Those half shafts are just popped in, and those axles have a shaft on them that goes into the diff. If they aren't in all the way you can get leakage. So what exactly are we talking about here??
Keith
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I know that for '06 they went to the Variable valve timing and increased the horse power rating to 173. I know just about everything about the 2.5 Turbo used in the STi and Legacy GT, but nothing anymore about the 2.5 non turbos. Is there anything to worry about? Piston Slap, or external head gasket leaks? I'm looking at consolidating two cars into an '06 Impreza 2.5i wagon. Thoughts?
Keith
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Super common for the bulbs to blow out on the AC controls. You can pull the assembly and replace the bulbs pretty easily. Search and you can find info on that. As for the shifter it's probably just a bulb or two as well. I don't have much experiance with anything relating to automatics.
Keith
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About the car.
He said that he had done the fancy exhaust work. It
Dave
I just went and re-read your first post on this topic. All of that exhaust work lends itself to support my theory. If the car isn't run very long water condensation lays in the exhaust and rusts it out. Running the car for longer periods of time helps evaporate it, and revving it up more blows it out. We've got lots of high mileage subarus on factory exhaust in my family. My 95 Legacy has 210k miles on it and all original exhaust. My vote is still with carbon, but I could easily be wrong.
Keith
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My vote is carbon build-up in the cylinders. Previous owner never revved the engine past 3000rpm and never let the engine get up to temperature for very long. This caused carbon deposits to build up on the pistosn and valves. Now that's Dave has taken ownership the car is being driven harder (Not hard, but harder than the previous owner) and being brought up to full temp for longer periods of time. Now you are getting small or large pieces flaking off that are causing terrible noises until they break up into small enough pieces that they get blown through the exhaust valves. The initial incident happened under load (Going up a hill) after the car had been up to temperature. The fact that it didn't happen in the first 350 miles is just circumstance. In that time things were loosening up on their way to these events. Possible the jarring of pulling the motor out and workign on it contributed to the loosening.
Also, this exact same thing happened on my father's 91 Legacy at somewhere around 160k miles. His car did it when starting it up after work one day. It had perfect oil pressure and nothing wrong in spark land. Since we had another motor sitting in the garage we replaced it. He tore the knocking motor apart and never found anything. A mechanic friend of ours told us that the mid 90's Jeep Grand Cherokees are known for having this exact knocking issue because of carbon build up, so the carbon build up theory is what we figured happened with his car.
Good luck,
Keith
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Congrats Connie! My friend had a 2000 Impreza that got rear ended last month. He drove an '08 and loved it! He bought it the same week. The new designs always take a little while to grow on me, but I like it. I even like the '06/'07 design now, enough that I'm going to look at one tonight. Oh, and don't worry too much about getting corrupted by owning a new one. I started of with several older Loyales, GLs, and what not. Even though I've had New/Newer roos for the past 4 years, it's my 88 RX that I can't wait to get to work on!
Cheers!
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- Justy = Colt = not quirky
4WD and more importantly ECVT = quirky to me
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The
gas torch is your friend. 
Oh, I've got an Oxy/Accetal torch.... But that doesn't fix everything.
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Should only take 20minutes to do.
-Brian
I say this everytime I start a project on my car.... Thanks to the fabulous rust belt I live in, it always takes 4 times as long and I always wind up replacing atleast one part that I break.....
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I'm pretty sure the axle acts as the spindle.... If you take the axle out the rotor and wheel are just kind of floating I think. I looked at this once many years ago and would not recommend putting any weight on the wheels without the axle in there.
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I think Justy belongs in Old School, so here it goes.
I need to pull the trans in a '90 FWD justy I just picked up, but I'm not sure if I should just pull the trans by itself or if I'll be better off pulling the motor and trans together. Thoughts?
Keith
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Until this post I would have said I was 99% certain that 95-96 Legacy and Legacy Outback models used a one piece headlight and turn signal assembly, and +97 used a two piece setup like the impreza had. Is what you have one piece combination or the two seperate?
Keith
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I've driven a few cars with this issue, and I agree it's annoying. You may want to try drilling a few very small holes from the back side of the wheel and injecting an epoxy. That's about the only way I could come up with for trying to fix it. It's not too bad to pull the wheel off, the only problem tends to be getting the bolts out that hold in the airbag. They are in pretty tight with loctite.
Good Luck,
Keith
Grimmspeed gear oil cocktail made shifting worse!
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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One other comment... The transmissions aren't engineered to be put into first at any speed above a crawl. 10 years ago I proved that by bending a shift fork in a brand new, at the time, 97 Impreza. If that is something you are trying to fix with fluid I suggest you fix it by working on your driving habits.