Step-a-toe
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Posts posted by Step-a-toe
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More a paint than a dye isn't it? I tend to think dye is a liquid stain. This stuff leaves a coat. Used whatever brand on a centre arm rest that folded up between bucket seats. A white one was donated to me, did it in Black gloss.
Blended in with rest of the Ford sixties black vinyl. Was amazingly flexible and durable. After 25 years still only gave a few hints of cracking or stretching where elbow squashed cushion.
Better to use this type than the removable rubber skin spray stuff. Nice job
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13 hours ago, el_freddo said:
....worse if you run dedicated LPgas!
Cheers
Bennie
30 years of dedicated and never had to push one to a supply ( the guys in the BRZ behind me did that ! )
The sender got stuck just above empty and I got 720 km from 80 litres.
Had the rescue gear on board when getting used to a new LED gauge reader , when it suddenly went from orange to red to splutter on the incline before the supply.
And in the odd occasion I have limped it to a pump on vapours working their way from tank to combustion chamber -idle power only
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I think the internal cleanliness is more due to oil changes on distance. Be thirty years since I pulled down a wet fuel, cast iron six, 70,000 miles after a full rebuild ( 6,000 rpm in first not so good for an old six with a 4,800 redline - I eventually broke a ring )
Valvoline every 6,000 miles with a filter. I washed block down with kero and hosed off on white concrete and no stain on the concrete . Wash off was clean. That was cast so hard to see the clean. Alloy certainly pops when clean !
Ionstorm's rocker is typical of my finds and the golden hue of the block, I am usually pleased to see them this clean
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In a way I take a certain pride when I pull apart my builds.
Built this in 2008 , 40 thou oversize slugs boxed as EA71,EA81,EA82 one size fits all "compromise" pistons
20/60 0.235" lift cam , solid lifters
Ran it in on petrol mostly highway driving varying speed to bed the rings and bore together. Then dedicated propane via , eventually, a bigger bore EA82 spfi intake and EA82 carb y pipe.
Over about 9 years , 120,000 km, mostly hard work towing a trailer and loads. Finally popped a gill and gave me a lot of buttermilk only in PCV system, think I got a lot of blow by as well. Oil and filter changes every 10,000 km
Want to pull it's still shiny slugs out to inspect rings and bore
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12 hours ago, scoobydube said:
The subaru dealer used to recommend changing the water pump at 15,000 miles. No doubt because they were failing in 20,000 miles when the grime is not kept out of the water pump bearings by plugging the top hole, but not the bottom hole. I had total bearing failure at 25,000 miles with no top plug. Just changed one at 40,000 miles with a top plug and no bottom plug and the seals were getting a little sticky, so it may have made it to 45,000 miles with a top plug. Leaving the bottom hole open, lets you know about when the seals are shot.
I have done nearly 700,000 km in EA Subarus and three water pumps. Not thinking of replacing them at that recommended interval !
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3 hours ago, DV-523 said:
We'll, For everyone wondering what was wrong, I've solved the mystery. The plug wires were pulled too far back on the distributor side and not making contact.
I need a new distributor cap now... I melted one of the terminals a bit from electricity arcing every once in a while I guess, but it runs now! Thank you for all your help!
I have one of those, arc cut slot down the centre turret from a loose coil lead. Was new too. Only gave a slight hint it was loose, under big load, tiny hiccough , nothing else.
Glad it was a simple fix for you
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And heaps of suggestions for EA82 no start posts in last few pages.
Before you do anything , have you got a compression gauge to tell us what you have at this initial no run stage?
Could be very useful
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Glad Bennie did not say 'just' clean out the AC evaporator.
Not that you have asked, the heater tap stopped with EA81 so coolant is always passing through heater core so it will always reflect the coolant temp. Air is directed or bypass to the core depending on if you want hot, cold or in between
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May you be cursed if you swap breeds!
What a find !!
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EA82 and it's 5MT AWD in EA81 1989 Brumby
EA81 engine and gearbox cross members
EA81 gearbox mounts and modified brackets to suit 5MT
195.50.15 tyres
In 4th, no engine load, down run or flat road
Measured up to 80k/50mph
Flick RHD steering wheel to the right ( also centre of the sealed road) I see gear stick knob shift sideways outwards about an inch.
Flick steering to left outside edge of road and hardly a reaction seen at the knob
Is it gonna be a rear engine mount known as a gearbox mount, or an engine mount?
Which one, which side anybody care to guess?
A month ago I had to realign the exhaust to gearbox side bracket when replacing missing bolt. Bolt got Loctite this time.
After this task my downpipes heat shield razzle in decel and have just noticed exhaust crossover turbo uppipe is suspiciously close to cross member gouge
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14 hours ago, Ionstorm66 said:
It actually takes that long to correctly. It was not designed to be easy to remove.
OK OK
Maybe it took me an earlier five hours working out how to do it without what I was told was step #1 in the manual - remove windscreen.
My shirt cut is to leave centre panel controls in place and juggle them through their hole in the dash each way. Saves one cable adjust later. I wrote up a procedure list as I went as well.
My times are for dash pad swap, cracked out, sexy in
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6 hours ago, GeneralDisorder said:
It does take that long. We do them periodically on the 2008 to 2010 WRX's and STI's due to fatigue failure of the pedal mounting box spot welds. About a $1500 repair. And that's not even touching the heater core box.
We have it on good authority that the assembly line starts with the heater core hanging from some fishing line and all subsequent parts are then bolted to it.
GD
Yeah, but you checked in in the MY EA81 forum here, not millennials. Funny you mention heater core start point. Australia had a poorly built locally made Leyland. An old mate's first job in Oz was on its assembly line, installing the heater cores.....
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Ten plus hours at your prices !!
I have done three dash swaps, two hours out, two 30 back in - no AC
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Hmmm GD often tells people to go with a newer EJ powered something....but your Loyale is newer than some EJ stuff !
So, deffo no spark and starting spray of choice does nothing?
The parts you are changing in, coil and igniter I think it is on coil bracket - know they work?
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Not that previous owners of any old cars I have bought would know, a radiator cap is a service item. Easily and cheaply replaced. Can do wonders
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Air pockets don't allow heat transfer so bits get hotter!!
If you don't get around to a good repair , that hose is a handy to nobody 5.5mm ID
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Peacock eh? Only works while you have it open . Good idea for filling, but no benefit while running
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21 hours ago, subaru1988 said:
Ok...Honestly, I had zero oil on the cam housing to clean up. I really think the source of my problems was two things. First, the water pump was basically hanging on with loose bolts and the gasket. I put no effort whatsoever in taking those bolts off. Second, I think the earlier post about the belts rubbing on the back cover and putting goo all over the place was a problem. If you combine that with the coolant, that's the "leak" out of the timing cover.
As for the idler pulley, I feel kind of stupid. I wrapped the pulley shank in a rag, put it in a vise, and the bolt came right off. It looked like maybe there was a little sealer or something on it. I just didn't think hard enough to realize it was a bolt with a partly smooth shank. It makes sense because it's in a bearing! DUH.. I'll keep buying only the bearings in mind. Mine seems pretty decent, FWIW.
Thanks for posting that. I'll use those torque values as my guide. Honestly, it took much more effort to take the fan pulley off the pump, and those bolts are supposed to be at 7, I think.This is a very different car than what I'm used to. All these pulleys and stuff makes it seem like giant watch sometimes..Makes you wonder more if somethings going to get screwed up.
I did my first EA82 timing belt swap over 25 years ago and admired the access ( better than any east west I have seen or done), admired the step by step checks for instal
absolutely hated the brass inserts in the covers for getting screwed up, so I use a neoprene screw washer or O ring as a fastening method. They have never come undone or sized on me since.
Keep these babies cool, below 3/4 on a working gauge and sender set, keep oil in them and they give decades of service.
I have started to do belts n tensioners at about 60 or 70 thousand kms as a courtesy to the old girls
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Fighter plane starter motor starting sound like a good option for the XT !
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Perspiration in its socks?
Sort of why we need to check and top up, I know, it must be going somewhere ! We have a 16 year old that has never been changed or topped up since factory...noticed other day the level has dropped and one of the hardest to access hose has green whiskers ....so , not gonna make 17 years.
Your case is good contender for a chunk of Sealwel
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I have the theory that this hose is sometimes important for air pocket escape. I have done a repair to block by taper tapping to 27? TPI in 1/8" to accept a 45° brass elbow male into block then female to take a barb fitting.
This neatly clears the MPFi twin port turbo intake.
Another I have bypassed the TB due to rotted fittings - no freezing up. Another I didn't do the bypass, I totally taper tapped and plugged the holes, right and left of manifold
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No help from me here, but what instead of an engine , an electric motor and lots of batteries?
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7 hours ago, Blooroo86xtGL said:
New fuel filter, before i changed the TPS sensor it was fine its just i had bad throttle response. Drove and idled fine just throttle response was terrible
What is terrible throttle response if you say drove and idled fine? In my book it ain't driving fine if it has terrible throttle response.
Manual? Clutch not toasting is it?
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XT ECU is in the rear, under the parcel shelf
Better valve cover grommets?
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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How is it that someone goes to the trouble to make such rubbish? I think the aftermarket are not a good quality rubber for the job and the genuines are that plasticky EPDM ? the genuine coolant hoses are made of