eagleeye

Thanks a whole lot Sonicfrog & Gloyale. You have the correct wire colors. I'll be ready for inspection ( after front brakes) now. This thread should be archived somewhere with all other auto to manual conversion related articles. I posted this question & tried searching it out several months ago and didn't find what I needed.

Not yet. Sent you a pm. Thanks

Ok, I have the wire ran from my tranny switch to my tranny tunnel inside the car. I connected those two wires, one to brown & one to black. The indicator light in my dash now comes on and indicates reverse, but my lights still won't come on. ( I haven't changed my speedo cluster out yet) I did have to connect the two larger wires in the rectangular connector (auto tranny connector) for the car to start. The brown & black wires came from this same connector. I still have a few plugs under my spare tire that are not connected that were plugged into the old auto tranny. Should one of these plugs be jumpered? The other wires in the rectangular plug were for 1,2,D,N,P. Thanks again.

Sounds great. Let me know what you had to do. Yes, I love the 5sp & d/r tranny. I just need to get this inspection over. Thanks

I found the switch in the tranny and have ran a wire from it to my shifter console where I think I need to hook it up at, just don't know exact wires or how to find them. Someone must have done one of these or know how.

I recently did a auto to manual conversion on my 91 Loyale and am having trouble hooking up my reverse lights. Its time for inspection. Does anyone know exactly where I need to hook up my reverse switch from my manual transmission to? I have already run a wire from the transmission to my shifter console. There was a multi pin plug that connected to my auto shifter and I am guessing that there was a switch in the auto's shifter. I don't have the shifter to look for it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I have tried to track it down with a meter, but have gotten nowhere. Thanks

I thought I was the only one daring enough to do that. I bought a 91 Loyale 4wd and the guy told me I could get a replacement title. Turns out the title had been stamped non-repairable. My locked up 88 3dr title was my only option. Its a risk and I would be afraid to try to resell it, but I'll drive her till she dies!

I guess the major parts are in decent order. (fenders,doors,glass) . I've stripped a lot from it and my 9 year old son has dismantled a lot of the smaller stuff. He loves Subaru's and is having a blast just taking stuff apart. I've started training the next generation! What in particular are you looking for? I'll try to post a pic tomorrow

What part of Va are you in. I know where there are three turbo 4wd cars in a yard. I'm not sure what they have in them. Check with Shenandoah Auto Salvage (540) 943-2300

I have an 88 hatchback that I'm parting out. The motor is shot and the tranny has been removed. I've pulled out about everything I need. I did look into pulling the ignition switch out to put in my 91 loyale, but it looked like too much work. They have shear head screws in them. You'd have to drill them out. I'll try to pull the door lock cylinders out this weekend if your interested. Send me a pm with your address. If I get em out without too much trouble I'll send them to you.

Thanks for the info. I finally got the axle shaft out. It looks like someone has bent the housing over into the cut-outs in the nut. Like you'd do with a spanner nut & washer. What a nightmare! I've removed the whole arm (brake lines too) I'm gonna take it to work tomorrow where I have more tools and where its dry. Is that the way your supposed to lock the nut into the housing?

I sprayed the nut down with some penetrating oil yesterday. Looks like rain today, so I'll try tomorrow. I'm assuming they are right hand threads..? Also, do I have to remove the entire axle? I removed the outer pin, but I can't get the axle off of the stub shaft. It'll almost slide back enough.

Thats what I thought I needed. I'm hoping I can rent one at a local parts store. If I can get my hands on one and take measurements I can make my own. Thanks for the info!

I'm getting ready to replace a noisy rear wheel bearing on my 91 4wd. Loyale. I've never replaced a rear bearing before. I have the drum and shoe backing plate off, outer seal removed and the axle pin removed. After that I'm not sure about the next move. It looks like there is a nut of some sort on the backside I need to remove. Is this removed with a punch & hammer? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks

Ok, thanks anyway.

Would someone mind running a carfax for me. Its not for a subie. My Dad and I are gonna try to turn a few dollars on this thing. Want to make sure all is ok. VIN : AR3043871 1974 Alfa Romeo Thanks

I had the same problems on an 88 3 door. It appeared to be a IAC problem. It would work one day and not the next. I finally found the problem to be a bad harness. It was shorting in the wire before the plug on the IAC harness. Looked like the plugs had been swinging around for some time and finally wore through. The harness was pretty easy to replace. Found one in a jy. It has plugs at both ends and is pretty short. I'd say your tps switch is causing your problem, but watch out for that short problem.

I found the problem. I had hooked up the matching connectors from the auto body car to my 5sp d/r thinking 'if they mate they should be hooked up'. I unhooked them and it solved the problem. I guess I need to figure out correct wiring for the reverse lights and indicator lights.

I completed my auto to 5sp d/r change. I'm having a small problem, but don't know where to look. When I take off fairly hard in the car and get the rpm's up above 4500 my engine meter fuse blows. I even replaced it with a 25 amp and it still blows. I haven't changed my gauge pkg yet. Could that be causing me some problems. I still have not hooked up my reverse lights or the 4x4 indicator lights either. I drove it today about 70 miles and it does fine until I go through the gears real good.

Not sure if this helps, but I just finished my auto to 5sp d/r conversion. I bypassed the park switch, turned the key and could hear the fuel pump bumping on & off kept turning and it fired up. Did a short test drive. Stopped the car. Reconnected a vacuum line I left off, restarted the engine, listened a minute or two and then turned the key off again and it locked in the ignition. It now doesn't start. It will turn over, but my fuel pump isn't running. I think I must have a bad key switch. I can't remove the key (even with pliers) Is there something in the keyswitch that could be causing your problems & possibly mine too. The igntion switch on mine felt pretty nasty. I don't know much about them.

Today I pulled the 5sp dr out of my 3-door. It actually wasn't that bad. The worst thing was getting the angle right & not knowing how heavy it was going to be. It was pretty easy getting the axles off the splined shaft. I thought I'd have to pull the wheels,calipers,bearings and etc. I actually read the manual and it worked great. If anyone else is looking to do this, make sure you drain the tranny first or it will all run out the rear after you pull the driveshaft. (learned the hard way!) One question though... are the bellhousings the same from auto to manual? They look the same. Didn't know whether to pull it or not.

I was wondering if anyone knew if there was is a difference in automatic transmissions. A friend of mine told me last night he has a newly rebuilt tranmission out of a 2wd loyale. I don't know if this would work in my 4wd 91 loyale. Is there any way to identify the difference before removing mine. I'd rather have the 5sp dr but it would save alot of work for now.

Thanks guys. I knew I'd get a good response. This site is awesome! I checked and both rear ends are 3.9:1 and both cars are also SPFI to answer your questions. I was also wondering whether my back up lights will work after the swap. I assume there is a plug on the 5sp. tranny, but don't know if the automatic wagon will have a matching plug. I did remember the neutral switch though. I do know my old coup would try to start without the clutch pushed in. Thanks again

I'm looking to do a transmission swap on a 91 Loyale. Going from leaky auto 3sp. to a 5sp d/r from my blown up 88 Loyale 3 door coup. I've read all the posts and I'm more confused than ever. I guess I'll have to just wing it. I think I understand that I'll have to change the front axle shafts as they are different spine from the auto to manual? Please correct me if I'm wrong. I have checked and my rears are the same, so that should be ok. Anyone have any idea if the drive shafts are the same lengths going from a 3 door sedan to a wagon or if I even need to change it. I also have read several posts regarding removal of the steering column to do the pedal change. The brackets look the same in both cars. I was wondering if anyone has ever just removed the longer pivot shaft and used it to convert the auto's bracket for clutch. I removed all pedals,shaft and brackets on mine without removing the column. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Sorry for no pics yet. I only have acess to net on weekends. I'll try to get some pics up this week. The wheels are factory steel wheels and have not been modified or redrilled. I talked to a guy today and I think he said they were from a 1968 to a 1972 beetle. The newer jetta's also used a four bolt pattern but it is a smaller bolt pattern. There are beetles out there with these wheels on them. I saw about 15 today. I was also incorrect about the ride height. I only gained about 1" to 1 1/2", seemed to be a lot higher. I'm working on a set of 14" star pattern wheels on a beetle at this guys lot. They are aftermarket. Check out the beetles if you have anyone around that works on them or at junk yard. Later!