subpilot

Thanks for the quick response GD. Both engines are 85's and both distributors have vacuum advance although the vacuum diaphrams are slightly different. OK so I will not worry about the exact numbers matching my FSM as the connectors match as they should. Subpilot

I have two motors that I purchased as spares (EA-82T MPFI). One I bought sight unseen and the other I pulled from a car myself. They are both EA-82T's but they have different distributors. According to my 85 FSM they should be Hitachi D4R84-20's. The one I bought unseen has a D4R83-33 and the one I pulled myself is a D4R84-51. WTFO! Is this something like "D4R" is the number, "83" or "84" is the year of manufacture and the "dash" number is the production batch series? BTW I did try to search for "EA-82T distributor" and didn't get any hits so I must have done something incorrectly. Anyway, any help would be greatly appreciated, Subpilot

As this subject is very near and dear to my heart I will add my two cents. "Certified" engines typically use a single silk thread between the two halves of the case looped around the through bolts and overlapped at the end. There may or may not be any other sealers used depending on the shop. Automotive conversions fall into the Experimental catagory and the builder can pretty much use anything they want as long as it can be approved as "air worthy". The airplane I am building has already been powered by a normally asperiated EA-82. After several discusions with the builder, timing belts and head gaskets were not his problem. He kept trying to get more power out of it with all kinds of aftermarket parts. Long story short, he started cracking things. He now has a Jabaru in the EA-82's place. The 81 is more popular primarilly because it is lighter than the 82, but they are typicall carburated and in an airplane that adds problems that go away with fuel injection. All of this is why I am using a stock EA-82T, TD04, intercooler, oil cooler, synthetic oil, properly sized radiator, stock computer, stock fuel injection, and knock control. I will also be using a redrive (single speed transmission) between the prop and the engine so the engine will see 4700 rpm for short periods, but will have to run at 4000 to 4200 on a regular basis. My airplane will be certified under the experimental catagory through the FAA. It will have to have a yearly inspection to maintain certification and appropriate entries made in its logbook. Since I am the builder I will be issued the authorization to inspect it myself. Although it is not required, I do already have my A & P license. Once finished, the aircraft is given a period of testing usuall 40 hours that only the pilot can fly the aircraft. After this initial test period you can carry as many pasengers as you have seats for, in any kind of weather, day or night, as long as the airplane is properly instrumented. I have been a member of this site for years and gained imensly from the knowledgable people here. I have contacted several for their inputs and will continue to do so in the future as my engine rebuild continues. I will be sure to post a couple of photos when I have it running on the test stand. Subpilot

I spent this morning searching the archives and probably missed it, but is it possible to rotate the compressor outlet on a TDO4 while maintaining the vertical inlet/outlet of the oil supply line? I know the waste gate diaphram won't work anymore but I intend to make this a manual control anyway. Thanks in advance, Subpilot

Thanks for the input. FYI a 3 1/2" hole saw (tape the teeth) and a 1 1/2" PVC coupling work great for the rear and front seals. I am really enjoying the rebuild so far, but I am sure I will have more questions in the future. Thanks again, Subpilot

I am rebuilding an 85 EA-82T and am ready to install the front and rear crankshaft oil seals. My question is, do I need the Subaru tool for this or can I make one myself? Question two, is the seal seated flush with the perimeter lip or is it recessed or raised above it? Thanks in advance, Subpilot

Mystery solved. After reviewing my manuals again last night, and realizing that this part came off an XT and that the XT modules are not located where the other model modules are located, by checking the wire colors it turns out to be an air conditioner amplifier. Oh well, learned something new. Thanks for the responses. Stephen

Sorry about that, when I reduced the photo the numbers became unreadable. The first row is "AF191-05", the second row is "C9533", and the last row is "Hitachi, Ltd." None of these numbers matches the official part number from my local Subaru dealer but I didn't think that was too unusual. Stephen

Can someone tell me if this is a 1985-1986 knock module? It has six wires coming out of it which matches the wiring diagram in the FSM but the connector shown in the FSM shows an eight pin (two rows of four) . Any help is much appreciated. Stephen

I failed to mention it is an EA82T. Thanks for the infoTurbone, I will look forward to it. Stephen

Just what I needed. Thanks Naru

I am assuming that the knock control sensor module is located somewhere on the firewall. Is this correct? Also, what does it look like? Thanks in advance, Stephen

"It should be noted, the 1-wire knock systems (87+) have the knock control built into the ECU." This is why I think I have to have an 85-86 version. According to my manual the knock module is connected to but seperate from the ECU. Stephen

I have a 85 EA-82T without the knock sensor module. I will spend lunch today calling my local yards to see if anyone has any but in Texas I am probably not going to get lucky. After checking the archives yesterday someone mentioned the posibility of replacing this component with one of a little later vintage but no name was mentioned. Anyone know anything about this? Thanks in advance, Stephen

Thanks everyone, I will proceed with stock.

I have done a lot of reviewing the archives and there have been some serious EA-82T's built. My question is at what point do forged rods and pistons become necessary? My engine will see at least 10 minutes at 4700 RPM and have to cruise at 4000-4200 RPM for extended periods. TDO4 with intercooler will be installed but boost will be kept to "normal" levels. Really not trying to make more than 105 HP but am a little concerned about the RPM for extended periods. Thanks in advance, Stepheh

What is the function of the auxiliary air valve that sits on top of the thermostat housing on my 85 EA82T? Thanks in advance, Subpilot

I did a search on this and didn't turn up anything. Has anyone ever done this and if so, how? I have seen it done with dual point distributors, dual coils, and a MSD Automatic Coil Selector but I haven't seen a dual point distributor on a Sube. Has anyone else? Thanks in advance, Subpilot

Yesterday I was told the EA81 & EA82's were notorious for throwing rods. I just did a search on it and didn't get much. Has anyone had this problem or is it BS? Subpilot

Thanks for the quick response guys. Subpilot

Was the EA-82 available in the Brat or was it just the EA-81? Subpilot

"1st Subaru Parts" price $182, "Subaru Auto Parts" price $37. Am I missing something? Subpilot