roadsubiedog

finally got it out. 3 ton jack with small 4by4 and tie downs. the throwout spins good but real dirty with red dust and lots of crud on spacer. as mentioned in another thread, I tried making a FWD by taking the rear drive shaft off but it wouldn't go at all. I could drive it slowly but it would buck very hard so I didn't move it that much. 2 mechanics told me it was the front diff/spider gears. lots of fine metal flake in oil. no pieces of metal. taking it to trans shop in Reno ASAP. the clutch was last changed 90k ago but my driving is almost all highway. maybe shifted thru the gears about 7k miles. there was a noise going down the road that stopped when I pushed in the clutch pedal. other than that no other obvious issues with clutch or shifting. recommendations?

99 has to have all 4 tires be the same. wal mart will do anything but make SURE they tighten up the lug nuts. ( from experience )

everything is done except the shift shaft and shifter. I loosened the 4 front tranny mount nuts and saving the 2 big ones once the tranny is supported. I think my main concern will be finding a good point to put the jack on the tranny to find the center of gravity. it seems like you need two supports. one on the wide flat spot and one right underneath the tranny mount. I know how important it is to do this right so you don't damage anything on the way out.

yes, this Costco jack has a nice big pad on it and I was thinking it would work. thanks for the axle tip. I will try that. every nut and bolt was soaked by blaster and hopefully I wont spend as much time as I did today breaking loose nuts.

thanks for the tips. I couldn't see the lock tab on the speed sensor . wish I had unplugged it before putting it on jack stands. was aware of punching out axle pins with a 3/16 punch but thought it would be a lot of trouble to take them out while prying the tranny and lowering from the motor. maybe that is why that guy used a scissor jack. I don't have a tranny jack or an accessary that bolts onto my jack. I have a pretty good jack from Costco and was going to try that with a homemade wood attachment.

today started first man tranny removal from my 99 OB after reading a pictorial on RS 25 about 10 times and a You Tube video 10 times and taking notes from Subaru manual. 1. almost finished everything on top except removing the speed sensor plug. cant figure that out so a tip would be helpful. 2. unplugged the neutral and back up plugs on top. do they disconnect from the tranny below too? do you use a open ended wrench or adjustable? 3. two different methods on removing axle from tranny. RS 25 shows using a scissor jack to move tranny sideways to pop axle. You tube video says take off wheels and take off some bolt so you can whole thing out to pop the axle. which is easier ? ,...or is there a better easier way to pop out the axles? sprayed everything with blaster such as exhaust bolts etc. cause having problems there . will try again tomorrow.

checking wiring for fuel pump. white from fuel pump to blue with red stripe. black is ground. found cut blue wire ( that comes out of body with blue/red ) that doesn't go anywhere. is this a hot wire too?

ok. been reading some old threads about this problem. if its not the dist. I could reinstall, switch the coil with a known good one. if that doesn't work I could also see if the screen in carb is clogged. this car was a daily driver until this problem. could I run a separate power line to pump to see if it is working? its brand new. so is the fpsu.

thanks. it ran as long as I manually fed gas to the carb. the fuel pump is brand new as is the fuel pump relay. I was told here that the disty wasn't sending a signal to the pump relay to work the pump. even if the plugs were firing. need more info.

I think its a cardone. looks like the one I found on ebay.

84 gl fuel delivery problem. fuel pump was replaced and fuel pump relay also. I posted problem before here and it was suggested that the distributor was not sending signal to fuel pump . so I took the distributor out and was going to switch out with my other 84 gl but it is not a match. can the original distributor be repaired or checked out at a machine shop? or do I need to replace it? it is breakerless but the wires that go into it is a different set up from the other GL. im cleaning all the grease off now so I can get the numbers off it.

gary. thanks for the advice. I watched briansmobile1 video on youtube on removing Subaru tranny and he makes it look so easy. I guess if you have done it dozens of times it is easy. I don't have a lift. will have to improvise on a tranny support.

on you-tube found briansmobile1 videos are highly rated.

ya. will have to check t-stat. thanks. I think I put a new one in a couple years ago but should check anyway.

re miles fox videos. thanks.

My gl runs at 180 degrees all day long in any conditions as long as it is moving. however, at a long red light or stop and go traffic it starts to slowly overheat. the fan works anytime I want it to as I have a manual switch. this slows the overheating but doesn't stop it. I flushed the radiator. I cleaned the exterior of all debris. I put a new radiator cap on. I change the oil every 3 k miles. the timing is right on the money. what else can I do?

I need to remove tranny to replace front diff. would it be easier for me to remove motor/tranny as a unit or just remove the tranny? the motor runs great, the head gaskets were replaced about 90k ago and the timing belt just replaced 10k ago. the motor has 275k on it. also, I have a hard time using directions for removal from the Haynes manual. are there any good videos I could use to help? thanks.

two85s any update? real curious to see how you did as my 84 is coming up for smog soon.

84 gl just turned 328,000 on original motor ....never rebuilt. what has been the highest so far? I wrote to Subaru when mine hit 300k and they wrote back that a number of owners have hit 600k plus.

what if the battery is drained out after a couple days? could it be a bad ground?

it seems like you are doing everything you can. I had to change an exhaust gasket a couple times too. I think the high octane gas is so it burns hotter and burns off excessive HC , hydrocarbons. the high NOX , I believe, would be either from a defective EGR, a lean air/fuel mixture or a defective cat. I think these were covered here on this thread. you said you tested the EGR? at idle push in the diaphragm and the motor should almost stall if it is working correctly. on my car the carb has the air/fuel mixture screw blocked behind a plate that has to be done by a mechanic. I don't know how to correctly adjust this. not sure how you test a cat. the mechanic pointed a heat gun at it to see if it was functioning correctly.

did you test egr yet? on the backside there is an opening. you can push in the diaphragm while it idles and the motor should start to stall out if the egr is working properly. if not , it is easy to take off. cleaning all the carbon off if the diaphragm is NOT broken is time consuming. also , you the passages in the manifold are probably clogged with carbon too. I cleaned mine out with screwdrivers and wire from a clothes hanger and whatever else would fit. good luck.

made in feb 07 5 speed mt I live in Subaru country....reno/lake Tahoe . I take a walk around my neighborhood and they seem to be everywhere. people sell them in Reno but where I live they rarely do. thanks everyone for all the info. sometimes a low low mileage Subaru from 92-96 comes for sale but it usually is sold within the hr. I was told I should get the craigslist app to be notified every time a Subaru comes up for sale.

how do I know if my ej22 on the 97 is interference or not? I mistakenly thought all 2.2 were non.

top of motor is ej22 invoice says 1997 Subaru legacy limited with 2.2 motor 5 speed. called the original owner and they confirmed that it is not a transplant. I would take a pic of invoice and owners manual but that is too much work. I'm wondering if the early production of the 1997 , say sept 1996 for 1997, would still have the 2.2? anyways, im happy that it is a 2.2